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About Mattjohnson1978

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  1. So...I recently dived down the CCD road by purchasing an Atik314L+. I have been having a lot of fun with mono images and the longer exposure times I can now manage. While I had the funds, I decided to get a filter wheel and and filters (LRGB + NB) as it would be something I knew I would want to get into. A few months back, I had took some Horsehead Nebula images and thought it would be a good time try my filters too and rattled off some exposures, without too much care as it was only supposed to be a test. The processing didnt go well so I stepped back and continued with mono images. I now have some time to find out what or where I went wrong. I have watched huge amounts of tutorial videos and read a lot of different methods but I still seem to fall at the same hurdle. No matter how I combine the RGB, using Dawn, Photoshop, DSS....the combined image never looks anything other than grey. I get colour when I drop one of the channels out in PS but as soon as I look at the combined image, it's grey. In Photoshop, the "merge channel" tab is always greyed out (which seems important in most tutorials) and despite moving every adjustment bar i can find, the image never shows any colour. Would it make a difference if I was using NB filters and not RGB? I'm starting to have doubts to what filters I decided to "play" with at the time! I really hope I am doing something stupid....it wouldn't be the first time! Please help! Matt Ps.....I'm using cs5 64bit if that makes any difference
  2. Hi. Did you ever get any feedback on this product? I am looking at this myself and find myself asking the same question. Just saw this is a 3 and a half year old post!! I'd appreciate any help. Thanks Matt
  3. Thanks for the replies I know that securing it in place might be a bit tricky, but do-able. I'm quite handy! I just don't want to do all that and then find out that you can't in fact use that kind of filter in the optical train with the LRGB. I have been hurt before...days spent working on a crack-pot idea only to find out it never would have worked anyway! Many thanks Matt
  4. Hi everyone. My Astronomik CLS clip filter for my Canon DSLR is now a bystander since I have my 314L+ but I was wondering....Is there any reason why I couldn't augment this into my setup? I was thinking that I could seat it neatly inside my focus extender but would like to know the results if anyone has tried this. Many thanks Matt
  5. Hi Andy. I have just got myself a 314L+ and Xagyl filter wheel and then found the problem with Artemis. I am, as I type, using the Neb3 demo and the software is talking to them both. I am on here looking for some sort of tutorial on script writing. Found a couple of generators but would like to understand what is going on. Any ideas? Matt
  6. Mattjohnson1978


  7. Thanks A.G. Had a bit of a disastrous debut session with my new Atik. Naively thought I could just plug everything in and figure out how it works as I go...in a field...with no internet connection...no help! Struggled to figure out even the basic of functions and came home with my tail between my legs. I have now picked up the instructions and decided it's probably best to find out how the thing works before worrying about syncing my filter! In my defence tho, I did only get the camera last Wednesday and only had time to make sure they connected with my computer ok before dragging it to the middle of nowhere! The excitement of a new toy got to me I think. Back to sqaure 1 for me! Thanks again!
  8. Thank you for your responses. I can drive the filter wheel independently with no problem using the Ascom driver. In time, however, I would like it all to be controlled off one piece of software. I can easily see myself getting distracted and end up with a couple of frames in LRG and 20 frames in B! I've just downloaded trial versions of Nebulosity and Maxim DL5 just to see how they look but from a quick glance, the camera control isn't obvious to me. Will have a better look tomorrow on site.
  9. Hi fellow stargazers, back again for some valuable assistance! I am now the proud owner of an Atik 314L+ but think I have fallen into a little bit of a trap. The filter wheel bundle I got was the Xagyl 5 position filter wheel instead of the official Atik one, mainly to do with it being £200 cheaper, but have immediately discovered that the software that comes with the camera (Artemis Capture) doesn't communicate with it. Is there a patch or fix for this that anyone knows of, or can anyone offer suggestions on what software is available that will sort this and still have full control of settings like temperature and image sequencing. The free-er the better but all suggestions welcome. Many thanks in advance, Matt
  10. Probably not very deep after I buy the camera and accessories!! Thanks for all the advice everybody. I now have a starting point of what I need and how I need to do it. Next step, get it all and have some fun!! Matt
  11. Thanks Olly! So effectively, the complete opposite of what I put! LOL That explains a lot! Is there a particular type of software you need to stack them with or does DSS sort it all out? Matt
  12. Thank you all. The 314L+ mono and filter wheel was certainly in my mind. I have seen one of those listed in many a members equipment signiture. Always nice to hear good reviews too. What about stacking the LRGB images? I'm not sure if what I put makes sense so I'll try putting it another way. If I wanted to get 120 minutes of data from a target in 10 minute subs, with a colour camera I would just take 12x10 but as I will be shooting in LRGB, would I take 3x10 through each of the 4 filters? This would give me the 120mins but technically only 30mins through each filter. Or, should I be taking 12x10 through each of the 4 filters which would actually be 480 minutes? I hope that makes more sense, despite it seeming like gibberish the more I read it back! Thanks again Matt
  13. Hi. I am back once again for some valuable advice. I am saving heavily for a CCD camera and have some questions I would appreciate some help with. I am almost certain that I would prefer a mono CCD as it seems to have flexibilty for narrowband imaging which I would like to try in the future and I am probably only going to have this budget once. This would mean using a filter wheel which is fine but I am not sure about a few things. 1. If I take a 10min sub of each of the LRGB, does that equate to 40mins of data or just 10? I hope that makes sense........? 2. Is there specific software I would need to stack images together or does DSS handle this? 3. I have a Equinox ED80 and a SW150p. Is it likely I'll need some kind of spacer to achieve correct focus? 4. Sony chips seem to have the best reviews, are they that much better than Kodak or any others? If you have any tips or hints on what to look for,spec-wise, in a CCD for Deep Sky Imaging, I would be very grateful. My budget should be at least £1500+ but that is going to have to include filter wheel and filters. Thank you in advance for any help. Matt
  14. Thanks Ewan. Just to report back, I had beautifully pin point stars on 10 min subs, however, I have now become a victim of the thermal noise saga! Warm evenings plus long exposures unfortunately peppered my subs like acne on a teenagers face! I am still very new to this and know I need to find the right balance of exposure/ISO but I am eager to get very nice images so I am now investigating noise reduction by either cooling my DSLR (The condensation issue worries me about this) or by making the expensive step up to a cooled CCD. I'm getting there...!!
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