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Xplode

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Posts posted by Xplode

  1. I've been very happy just using my mono 6D so i forgot to check this thread lately :(

    I thought i'd share some results from the camera...

    This is a single 120s @ iso 1600 frame from my mono 6D, flatfielded (with wrong flats) and stretched a little. Sensor temp was around +10C

    Scope is a 12" f/3.8 newtonian.

    It's the full uncropped frame so feel free to download and examine.

    m51_120sec_1x1_L_frame2_c_r.jpg

     

    90x of those frames...dithered, no darks and old flats that didn't remove dustmotes.

    1632e5faefe1043f08aa135083ab29b4.1824x0_q100_watermark.jpg

     

    Older RGB data with an 8" newtonian and 6Da.

    888955339b15f52da34719fcb5d75235.1824x0_q100_watermark.jpg

     

     

    Combined they look like this...

     72d639ffc63b29a6f7e1dfdd2a03089b.1824x0_q100_watermark.jpg

     

    With some further processing by Göran Nilsson it ended up like this.

     

    Pretty good results from what some CCD guys would call a "crappy noisy DSLR":headbang:

    57250187e99c7_M51OAPS2sign.jpg.645e0a1a5ec66be2d3a652627b516e6a.jpg

     

     

    • Like 6
  2. Not a DIY job, but it's still a debayered DSLR so i hope i won't get thrown out of this thread :smiley:

    Last year i had an idea about buying a 6D and get it debayered, around new year there were a special offer for the Canon 6D (N) (N means without wifi and GPS) with a price of 20% under the regular model and on top of that a drawing board that was worth a good amount.

    The special offer made the camera cheap compared to a regular one so i decided to go ahead and buy one to get it modified. The drawing board was sold for ~20% of the cost of the camera.

    I sent the camera off to Brent Oliver (Hypercams and Mods) in the US that has debayered Canon cameras with great success.

    Unfortunately the conversion took a very long time because he recently had a baby (and he also has a kid from before) and there was also some problems with Baader filters that weren't perfect (they had streaks that he couldn't remove by cleaning) so it took almost 7 months from i sent the camera to i got it back, today i finally got it!  :grin:

    This is probably the worlds first 6Dm (monochrome) :p

    Brend did a very good job and  autofocus works perfectly and there's very little left on the edges so it can be used for regular photography perfectly fine.

    I have made some testshots and picked the best one that was of my cat sitting outside.

    I opened in RAWTherapee and saved without debayering.

    Resized to 25% and not cropped.

    post-17296-0-16939800-1436903713_thumb.j

    RAW file on Dropbox

    • Like 7
  3. What you require is a low profile M48 to Nikon mount adaptor like this

    http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p6527_TS-Optic-ultrashort-Adapter-from-M48-to-Canon-EOS-EF-Bayonet---only-1-mm-optical-l.html

    ....but for Nikon.  I found one but can't for life of me find a link for it!

    EDIT- the other possibility is a coma corrector with longer back focus distance like the  Baader RCC 1 Newtonian Coma Corrector

    http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p6527_TS-Optic-ultrashort-Adapter-from-M48-to-Canon-EOS-EF-Bayonet---only-1-mm-optical-l.html

    A low profile M48 isn't possible for Nikon because of the smaller flange, it seems to be barely large enough for a low profile M42 at 44mm throat. Canon has 54mm throat.

    Thanks for that.

    I've been told that the currently available range of OAGs an 55mm back focus coma correctors won't work - even with a "zero" width mk48 adaptor :(

    I'm looking into the RCC - although I have found a number of threads where people describle problems they have had with its sensitivity to sensor alignment / tube flex.

    I hope to pick up a set of new Losmandy tube rings that are designed to work with my Orion Short-Tube 80 guide scope to hold the orion guide camera in firm alignment. I'm hoping that this will reduce my differential flex issues enough that I can live without an OAG.

    You are correct that a Nikon won't fit an OAG at all with with a 55mm backfocus.

    Canon would work with a TS slim OAG, but a Nikon allows 1.5mm less distance between the flange and coma corrector so there is just no space.

    If you want this to work you should get a Canon camera...they are much more flexible for astronomy and will cause much less frustration :grin:

    • Like 1
  4. If anyone is interested, here is a link to the full-size image. The image in my first post is uncropped but downsized and jpegged. This is the RAW file that has only been run through DCRAW with the -d, -6 and -T switches. Those switches force no demosaicing, 16-bit output to a TIFF file respectively.

    http://www.timsroadster.com/pics/mono.tiff

    Tim

    I see there is still a bayer pattern in that image with uneven values for the pixels, i wonder how that would be fixed best?

    I tried to debayer the image and it turns out looking good, but i guess resolution is lost in the debayering process.

    Is there a way to change the pixels values so they get the correct values so it doesn't have to be debayered? Could DCRAW fix this or do they need to be processed by some new software?

    500x500 crop from original image

    post-17296-0-59500900-1427400774.png

    VNG debayered by pixinsight

    post-17296-0-74643800-1427400788.png

    Changed to grayscale (extract luminance seems to give exactly the same result)

    post-17296-0-79129300-1427400796.png

    Could you post the RAW file so i could experiment more?

  5. Guide speed works together with calibration step so 1850ms should work.

    I did the calculations for your setup at 0.1x speed and calibration step would need to be 9200ms! I guess this is why your earlier settings didn't work.

    Auto select star should work great, never had a problem with it myself so i suggest you stick to it too.

    From what i understand hysteresis on DEC should only be used on mounts without backlash...so none of the Skywatcher mounts and most other cheap mounts won't be suitable either.

    • Like 1
  6. Firsly you need to check your guide speed. If you use EQMOD with pulseguiding i suggest you set it to 0.5x under "ASCOM pulseguide settings) in eqmod. If you use ST4 you also have an option there to set it to 0.5x. I have tried lower settings, but found calibration to take more time without making guiding more accurate.

    I calculated your needed calibribration step to 1850ms.

    I also suggest you change dec algorithm to resist switch.

    SNR 40-50 seems very high? I usually guide at stars with SNR 7-12

  7. Nice setup Olly :)

    It will be interesting how you find the mount when you get it up and running.

    I should have my EQ8 running in a few days, need to make a pier to mount it in the astronomy clubs observatory first

    It's highly probable that some Tak's will be used on my mount too, a friend has FC60-QB, Sky90, TSA102, FSQ106-ED, TOA150 and Mewlon 210 which needs some imaging time  :grin:

  8. My first DSO was M51 taken on 22 March 2012.

    Canon EOS 5D MKII (unmodded), Meade LX200 Classic 16", autoguided with PHD/QHY5, 600s exposure @ ISO 1600.

    No editing other than darkframe.

    Taken at my astronomy clubs observatory at Hågår, Norway

    aat5KpSg.jpg

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