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About woland

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    other than astronomy: classical music, physics, playing the piano.
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    Warsaw, Poland
  1. Indeed I have and I understand that this scope will require some adjustment out of the box, but I'm fine with that. I do have some experience with fiddling about an 8" f/5 newtonian as well as upgrading my HEQ5 with belt mod and new bearings etc., and I have to say I find some satisfaction in this part of our hobby
  2. Hi guys and thanks for your input. John, your excellent images are what made me interested in buying this scope . As for pushing the reducer beyond 0.67x, yesterday I stumbled upon a photo on Astrobin (http://www.astrobin.com/46955/) taken with the RC and the reducer, and the guy who took it says that he pushed the reducer to 0.56 for APC-S chip (!), so I guess it should be possible with Atik 314L+, too. So I think I'll be buying this one in the next couple of weeks (seeing how we've had several days of good weather, I wouldn't want to spoil it with a new scope! )
  3. Hello everyone, I'm thinking about buying a new scope for astrophotography. So far I've been using a TS APO 65Q on HEQ5 with not bad results, however what I would like to get now is a scope that would be a bit faster than f/6.5. Now, it is important to remember that for imaging I'm using an Atik 314L+ which uses a small CCD sensor so a large flat field is not necessarily a must. I've been considering several different scopes that would possibly fit in what i need: - WO Megrez 88 (f/5.6), focal lenght ~500 mm, doublet, chromatic aberration (irrelevant in narrowband imaging) - TS 100 ED (f/6 perhaps could be reduced to f/4.8 with TV reducer but I'm not sure if a 1k euro doublet would produce good images at such a fast speed), 600 or 420 mm focal lenght - TS 90/600 triplet with a reducer (f/5.3) - 600 or 420 mm focal length - most expensive solution, very good optics - SkyWatcher 130 pds newtonian (f/5 but I'm not sure about the quality, I used to have an achro 80/400 and umm... never again), focal lenght 650, I already have a coma corrector - GSO 6 RC (it's f/9 but could be reduced to useful speeds), 1370 or perhaps ~800 mm focal length Now since I don't have an endless supply of money, I need to optimize the cost (that's why all those nice Borgs and Takahashis aren't included in my list, unfortunately). The refractors sound nice, however their focal length with reducers would be very similar to what I get with my TS65Q (420 mm). They are also the most expensive solution. The quality of the newtonian might not be up to par and I haven't seen many great images taken with it (perhaps I haven't searched well enough). On the other hand I've seen some very impresive images takien with GSO 6 RC and Atik 314L+ on HEQ5. Now what I would like to know is whether it is possible to reduce the focal length of this scope using APCC67 reducer a bit more than what is suggested by the manufacturer as an optimal reduction factor (x0.67), for example to 0.6 or 0.55? Theoretically and according to the telecompression graph (http://www.astro-physics.com/products/accessories/photo_acc/CCDT67%20&%2027TVPH.pdf) it should be possible. Obviously the useful field would change as well but perhaps it could still work with a small chip like the Atik's? Having this scope at f/5 and ~800 mm focal length would be really great. I would appreciate your thoughts, inputs and suggestions. Maybe I'm not considering every option that I have. Tomek
  4. Thanks TS 65Q is a nice scope and it works well in LRGB imaging, but it is a bit slow (f/6,46) for narrowband work. The great thing about it is that it is a plug-and-play equipment - no need to adjust anything.
  5. Hello! So recently the weather has kindly allowed me to take some astrophotos . The target that I chose is very well known, however it is rarely imaged in narrowband. Those are my first 3-color narrowband pictures utilising the 3 filters (Ha, OIII and SII). Hope you enjoy and all comments/suggestions are more than welcome. Modified Hubble Palette Original Hubble Palette (SII=R, Ha=G, OIII=B ) Equipment: TS Apo 65Q, Atik 314L+, Baader filters, HEQ5
  6. Hello all So, I've been working on this object, the Jellyfish Nebula (IC 443). Final result is still a far way ahead, and frankly, due to the weather and my quite slow scope, I'm not sure if I will be able to gather enough material this year to make a final image in HST pallete. So far I managed to get 8 20-, 25-min subs in H-alpha (during 3 nights! argh) and the results to me are mixed (or maybe it's due to my mediocref processing skills). I think this might be just too dark for my f/6,45 TS APO 65Q, as well as the background noise here in Warsaw might be just too much for Baader H-alpha filter. Anyway here's the pic: During one night while I was waiting for the Jellyfish to show up, I managed to take 25x2 min (no use in making longer exposures here in Warsaw) of the Andromeda Galaxy M31. I chose this objec so that I could have some new material to play with: Setup for both pictures: TS APO 65Q, HEQ5, Atik 314L+, IDAS LPS2/Baader Ha, QHY5. Thanks for taking a look Tomek
  7. You could try going through this list: http://www.skyandtelescope.com/observing/objects/projects/3074841.html?page=2&c=y However if your skies are as you say extremely light polluted then you will not be happy with the results. Anti light pollution filters help, but they can't substitute for dark skies. So I wouldn't hold my breath, especially if you're using uncooled, unmoded DSLR. The only way out is to take your AP setup and go to a place with reasonably dark skies or to swich to narrowband imaging (frustrating with a DSLR).
  8. You probably won't get a reducer for the quadruplet. I've been serching for a one and the only thing that might work (but no one has tested it yet so it might or might not work) is the new 0.7 reducer from Optec. Unfortunately it costs half as much as the telescope.
  9. Wow, that's a fabulous image. The details in the nebula and the dark cloud look fantastic. Maybe the brightest stars could use some more saturation, but overall it is a really great image.
  10. Fabulous image. Great detail on those dust lanes!
  11. Thank you for the nice comments Several days ago I decided to buy the OIII and SII filters and yesterday I had a chance to take some photos with the OIII filter. Unfortunately due to the weather I was able to shoot just a couple of 1800 s subs which showed almost no oxygen... Anyway I decided to take them and create a bicolorish image: Stars were created with the help of eXcalibrator and some photoshop work. Hope you enjoy Tomek
  12. Hi. Thanks Indeed you can especially with a faster scope (unlike mine). The only problem is getting the mount and guiding to behave, because some stacking methods can get rid of an ocasional sat trail. I don't think I would be able to achieve such long exposures on HEQ5 with any longer focal lengths - this one's 420 mm.
  13. Hello, Recently the weather was kind to me which is quite unusual during this time of the year. However this allowed me to take this photo of the Monkey Head Nebula in H-alpha (I don't have any other filters yet to make bicolor or HST images). The nebula is located in Orion: Information and setup: 8x1800 s (the longes I've ever taken), 04-10-2013. TS Apo 65Q, Atik 314 L+, HEQ5, Baader H-alpha filter. Astrometry.net annotations and other technical stuff Thanks for looking and hope you enjoy! Tomek
  14. woland

    NGC 598

    Hi, Beacuse I don't have RGB filters yet . My camera only just arrived 2,5 weeks ago and all I've got is an H-alpha filter and an IDAS LPS2 which I used with my Pentax DSLR. I didn't get an LRGB filter set because I was convinced (looking at the pictures taken with the dslr) that LRGB astrophotography was practically impossible to pull off from my location and I was planning on concentrating on narrowband photography only. Now, after taking this picture of M33, i'm reconsidering buying the LRGB filters but first I need to take several pictures of much darker galaxies than this one to be sure that I'm not throwing any money away for nothing. And if and when I'll be buying the filter set I want it to be of good quality. So for now my pics are mono only
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