Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.



  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

About paulhutch

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. Well some degree of success today, the 3 x barlow was rusted into the focuser. It's been soaking all night and I managed to knock it out although I do believe it's the barlows last outing. Now it focuses on some trees with the 15 in with a clear view. I'll collomate it later and give it a test run (Weather permitting). I did pop a 1.25 25mm in and it did achieve some focus on a close by tree but the far one was slightly out. I still think I'll struggle to obtain the DC power supply but the weights can be made. It will be a good starter scope for someone if I decide to let it go, but I'm in the way of thinkng of a slow do-a-upper. As for them being well made, I think you could run over this with a tank and it would still be standing.
  2. Andy, thank you. Loads of great links in that lot and a few contacts too. I managed to pick it up from Preston over the weekend but as work is manic at the moment that all I have done. I had a quick look around it and yes your right, she has been neglected but nothing that can't be put right. The 25 mm lens has some liquid splitting (or water damage) but tube, stand and primary all look good. My only concern is changing the focuser for a 1 1/4 inch one. If I have to move the primary to change it, I'll need to get my Mathematical brain into gear (I've not worked anything out, other than my change for over 20 years) although sourcing a power lead might be tough, I'm thinking another new buy (Or make) is on the cards. Not had chance to look at the secondary yet but something is wrong as no view can be achieved with any EP. You can see the difference of blue and green (Tested during the day) so can't be anything too big of a job. All in all it's one of those right in the middle, save it or use it for spares. I'll know more once I strip it down. Thanks again Everyone for you help.
  3. Astro baby, your guide on how to restore these scopes is invaluable, thanks for sharing that. Heathenwoods, I can see that staying solid for years to come (Love the engineered bits and bobs you can buy off ebay). As soon as I get the scope, I'll post some more detailed pictures. The powder coating and chroming is the easy bit, I just strip it down and send the bits off and they come back nice and new. The hard bit will be deciding weather or not to change the focuser and move the primary or keep it as original with the EP's that came with it. If you were buying one for a project what would you do? (Open question to everyone) I'm leaning toward keeping it original but making it look vintage, with a metallic deep red and chrome look.
  4. That's interesting, I think a new motor and PS from the factory will do it no harm, should be able to source the weight from them too. Thank you. I've not seen the guide but by tomorrow morning it will be printed out on my bench. Thanks
  5. I've recently bought a Tal 1M off the bay (Item number 110962424362) and it's in a right sorry state. I've bought it with the intention of turning it into a working centre piece in my conservatory, chrome legs and a nice powder coated metallic otr with chrome rings. It will be a lengthy project as work commitments are manic at the moment but my question is as it takes sub standard/Not 1.25 inch EP's will a crayford focuser retro fit, also is there anything I need to replace in the motor before I bench test it. The last thing I want to do is do permanent damage for the sake of a cog that was a common knowledge part that should have been changed on receipt of it. As always, thanks in advance. Paul
  6. Well the box I got my base in (I still have it) said 300P Auto/Goto so I'd have to agree with the motors being the same. Skywatcher discontinued the auto because of savvy stargazers realising it was indeed just a case of plugging in a V3.X controler in and away you go. The 300P goto is £500 more as we live in 'rip off Britain'
  7. I will let you all know how I get on, as of yet I'm undecided on how I'm going to go about this. Second hand mounts with controllers are going for around £100-£150, So I could do that and put my travel scope on the mount and swap handsets so the TS converts into an auto. I could buy a (Pre owned) Skywatcher 127 SC for around £270 and just swap the controller and re sell the 127 for around the same price give or take £40 or I could just buy the new controller, lead and PC connection for £170, failing that I could buy a brand new (SkyWatcher Mercury 707 SynScan AZ GOTO 70mm Refractor Telescope) for around £210, swap the handsets and sell the brand new auto frac for, I don't know say £140, someone saves £70 and so do I. Like I said (Once I've made my mind up) I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks for all the advice. Paul
  8. As always, thank you all very much, I will let you know how I get on. I am so pleased I plumped for the auto. I love saving a few quid and if this works (and I see no reason why it shouldn't) then I've saved quite a lot and got a GOTO 12 inch dob in with the bargain.
  9. What handset would I need? Is it just a case of getting a second hand GO-TO unit and plugging it in? After a little bit of research they vary from £149 to £329 (New) and I'm a little confused to which one I need.
  10. A friend of mine has said that all I need is a synscan handset to convert my 300P Auto dobsonian (Skywatcher) to a full Synscan GO-TO. Can anyone confirm this is true? The 300P Synscan is around £1400 but the handset is only £150, as I only paid £950 for my auto surely can't be true as for £1100 I could have a GOTO thus saving £300. Thanking you in advance.
  11. At first I was mortified thinking my scope was going to suffer big time, but the fact that I've not replaced them means it doesn't concern me much. The scope still performs brilliantly and as mentioned (When I get time) It's an east fix. Rubber O rings (New) from a cylinder head kit for a car should stand up to the heat and cold and I like the inner tube fix for the focusing wheel. Like I say though fixing it isn't the problem, the problem lies in getting the time to do it.
  12. The same thing has happened on my 300P, also one day when I came to it I found 2 x 3 inch round rings of rubber disintegrated on the floor.(I've built a shed for it to live in). I just put it down to cheap rubber, The rings went round the EP holder somewhere but the scope still works fine and the EP's don't show any unusual damage. I'll get round to sorting it one day.
  13. I found the stock ep's we ok, nothing special but ok non the less. I use them both in my travel scope as they are much better then the ones that came with it. I bought the 2 inch panaview ep's and a cheap 2 inch 13mm and they make a good scope much better (Although I'm going to get an 8 and 17 baader hyperon, just don't tell the wife!). I have a flashed phillips 880 and you can use that for live view on the laptop but I tend to use it just for observing as I think dew and the laptop don't mix (Also registax is tough to use). If you get the dob then you can treat yourself to new ep's as and when funds allow. I bought the scope because I didn't fancy loosing money every time I upgraded from a starter scope to intermediate to top end. I have no reason to upgrade this unless I start astro photography then we open another can of worms altogether.
  14. Well my first and only serious scope is the 300P Auto Dob (Travel scope excluded), it's best thing I ever bought. Never needs upgrading unless serious app fever sets in and with some upgraded ep's it provides some outstanding views.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.