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Everything posted by jimmyjamjoejoe

  1. I wouldn't bother with the lens... They're typically poorly made, as are the cheap "close up" lenses. Setting the kit lens to 24mm or so gives a pretty wide field while improving image quality compared to 18mm. Stop it down a touch, not too much or you'l struggle to get data, but wide open will leave soft edges. As for focusing, does the 1000d have live view? If not, the best bet is to focus to infinity during the day, then set it to manual and dont touch it. :-)
  2. I love my 31mm at f6, some slight coma at the very edges but only if you look for it, certainly nothing distracting. At f5 i'd imagine the results would still be good.
  3. Probably just an internal reflection... Looking at the moon will show up problems like that.
  4. Mine focuses fine using the t-ring thats built into the 1.25" adapter, but struggles with a seperately bought one... The one that comes with it is a slightly lower profile.
  5. I either focus to infinity during the day, or use liveview with absolute max settings - highest iso, longest exposure etc and it can usually pick up some brighter stars like vega. Then just zoom in 10x on liveview and focus.
  6. I think this whole thread could be condensed into the above sentence. Its not so much about seeing more of an object, just seeing it easier. Unless you go REALLY large, details like spiral arms etc will always be a kind of "ooohhh yeah i think i see it now", and essentially, fuzzies will always be fuzzy.
  7. I cant really get it with my 200p from my moderate skies (milky way is usually visible), but with the uhc it really jumps out.
  8. Managed to hand track it lastnight with my 200p with the hyperion zoom at 8mm as it shot over the zenith... The detail was astounding! Saw 2-3 central sections with another 3-4 sticking out each side. I always figured it'd be just a blob, at the most an H shaped blob, but it was a clear 3 dimensional object. Blew my mind.
  9. Did seem much more orange and stayed orange much higher than usual lastnight, must've been a lot if stuff in the atmosphere. Low stars were also particularly flashy, from very deep reds to bright vivid greens, so much so i thought one of them was a plane!
  10. Phone apps can help, but seeing as you already have TLAO and a planisphere a red light will help loads. The moon puts a MASSIVE downer on things, so dont be disheartened, just wait for a darker night and constellations will be easier to spot. When i started, i'd use stellarium to pick out a constellation or two, then go outside and try to spot them, and where they are with regards to each other. I found cassiopea a good place to start, it's fairly distinctive and can point you in useful directions using it's stars to draw lines to other constellations etc. Once i knew a few constellations, i'd look up an easy to find object in one of them and take a crack at it. Once you find something, you never forget it, and over time your repetoir will grow until you're practically a human goto.
  11. If your luck is anything like mine, crystal clear all week with great transparency.
  12. I messed about for a few days trying to win auctions on ebay with no joy. Fortunately enough, my local camera store had a one day sale on and i picked it up for £70. Saving a few quid is always good, but for the sake of trying before you buy, and no delivery time etc, i wouldnt mind paying an extra fiver or so for the service of a local store.
  13. I wouldnt mess with the objectives themselves, you'l likely bodge the collimation. On most porros you can unscrew the tube with the objective in from the prism housing. If not, it really would be better to send them back unfortunately.
  14. Looks good. I run a 120mm from 2xAA batteries, keeps it slow enough to avoid vibration but still has decent flow (3v is a little low though and some fans wouldnt run on that, i was lucky). The batteries are 1200mah rechargables i think, and give a good 8hrs or more per charge.
  15. Looks concentric enough, maybe a slither off, but i've had a drink or two... More worrying though is that artifact that moves from lower left to upper right when out of focus... But then, i dont know much about frac collimation, much less with a star test, only things i've seen are using a cheshire.
  16. Dont think it will tbh. True, sensors will get noisier as they get warmer, but unless you plan on doing constant 20min exposures with no breaks, the dslr will be fine. Any noise can be sorted with darks/bias. I've never heard of people using lenses with ccds, interesting idea though...
  17. Aperture = resolution, so the planetary views will probably be better. I have the 200p and very much prefer it to the evostar 102 which i used to have. Light grasp for dsos will be a decent step up too. If planetary is your game though, be aware that the major planets are moving into unfavourable positions over the next 5 years or so, remaining quite low in the sky, so you'l always be fighting the atmosphere and rarely getting the most from your scope.
  18. I can vouch for the ultrablock, completely transformed the veil for me. Other targets however arent usually so drastic. Generally filters will make everything a little dimmer, but the sky around them much darker thus improving contrast. I've heard oiii filters offer the most drastic changes, but on fewer targets, generally planetaries. With your aperture i'd be looking at a true uhc or oiii filter, rather than an LP or skyglow filter, you have enough light grasp to deal with the slight dimming.
  19. My first step into astronomy was with that scope. You'l love it.
  20. Is it showing just a long thin strip from the middle of the picture? If so, its a problem with dss, updating to a newer version fixes it.
  21. Waiting for magic lantern on 1100d. Been waiting months but its finally in RC stages.
  22. Haha yeah i thought the same, but snipped the leds almost straight away after seeing blue light leaking in around the edges of the primary...
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