The storm fisherman

Hi Alan

The main issue is the double doors I have found that they have introduced  instability the structure not too much yet but enough that in so much as it leans depending where the main weight is, this in turn either seizes the doors up or I cannot close them without getting a leaver under the door or by pushing the whole frame back to true. It has gotten a lot worse this past last year but the first 3-4 years it was ok not great but ok , however over a period of years the joints have loosened up and it is getting more and more out of alignment as time progresses.

  As I have got to clear it out to remedy the worsening leaning issues, I thought it would be a good time as any to renovate renew and automate, cannot do that with current door problems,  by building a new structure on top of the decking where I can double my observatory space and possibly put in another pier or 2 to the north of the first one where the shed rolls back to now but at least I should have the main structure  back ready for the winter season. 

This is going to be a new rebuild of my previous observatory Link here for anyone interested  

 This is just a place holder and some info on the Rebuild.

Firstly the reason is I need more space as I had a single pier and a 6ft x 6ft push off shed, the main weakness the doors kept continually drooping and to automate would have been lot of Hassel and  work to modify. As this last past winter my imaging time had been severely short I wanted to maximize very clear sky opportunity and to automate as much as possible , As of next weekend it will be the start of the new build observatory this time from scratch with the classic ROR Roof either pitch or pent style, but I will have to clear out  the old observatory first and move it to a new spot before starting on the new Observatory. 

 As before I will document and update with loads of pictures and descriptions as a handy guide as to what's happening I would be more than happy to answer an comments and questions as the build progresses.

I Just manged to fit a stepper motor driver into the spare connector in the on step control unit for the auto focuser. Also if anyone requires the Molex part Number for the plug its available on eBay 2 plugs with the crimp socket pins for about £5.49 just need to work out the wiring placement squence to the stepper motor. The part number is as follows 

Molex 43025-0400 Micro-Fit 4 Way Connector

Extra day off tomorrow will be mount test day downloaded software and see if it all works ok. Guide cam and scope arrived Friday if mount works ok i will fit all together just the auto-focuser  to buy and fit.

Had a productive day Yesterday (Saturday) cut and drilled the 1mm ally plate to remount the RA motor bracket the concept worked but because the ally was too thin and slightly bent inwards, so lifting up the bottom of the bracket up by a tiny amount. Going to remake the backing plate with the 2mm ally sheet, see photos. DA

Hi All

I Purchased from AliExpress a On-step V4 Pro go-to kit  for an EQ5 Mount about 5+years old this is the older style without the green trim. On Mounting the RA motor the bottom end of the bracket is lifting up once the bolt has been tightened, this is loosening the drive belt if I  move the motor back there is not enough adjust to retighten the belt. looking at the bracket the mounting hole is to one side and this makes the bracket not sitting straight on the mount, this makes the bracket tighten down into fresh air. Has anybody else had this problem and what was your fix?

My suggested fix is to get some thinnish ally sheet to sit across the mount given a flat stable surface see photos.

Update time the bearings have arrived and the mount has now been stripped degreased and new bearings fitted, unfortunately the thrust bearing was too thick so I reused the old metal one as it looked brand new I may replace that bearing at a later date. The mount has now been put back together and backlash tuned out the mount now feels very smooth and free running. Just waiting for guide scope and camera to arrive, In the mean time I am fitting an on-step V4 pro to the mount to give motorized GOTO control see other post.

Fortunately, the end caps did come off, but they are basically scrap due to the glue holding them on did not soften very well with heat possible due to age. I will at a later stage get a replacement solution for them. The grease that was still there is still soft but not much of it, the nut and bolt was on so tight had to use an extension bar and a couple of taps from the rubber mallet to free it off.

 Most of the mount is now stripped and clean, just waiting on new UK bearings the ones in there are probably ok but I only Want to do this job once. I will be putting all back together when the new bearings arrive along with the new motorized go-to kit I will add at the same time.

Thanks Pete 

For confirming my thoughts. Yes a hair dryer has many uses we use a couple at work for removing old shipping labels etc from sides of cardboard boxes so we can use them especially ours or customer return boxes. 

Hi all

Been away for far too long just getting back into the Hobby. I just purchased from a guy a brand new never been open or used EQ5 MOUNT been sat in the loft for 5 years so needs and complete re- grease and tune up. After an inspection the only problem I have found is the latitude pivot bolt under the black side caps is frozen solid  I suspect the grease has gone rock hard. My question is how do you remove the black plastic caps as I want to keep the mount in original condition as possible. are they just pushed on or are they glued on? if glued on will some gentle heating help soften the glue. 

Hi Neil like the build 

reading through your thread i have manged to answer 2 off my own questions, A is to leave the pier white and  B how to reduce the distance between the top and bottom mount plate on top of the pier.

Hi Jim 

For electronics like this a 2-5% failure rate is to be expected as to a new peice of tech I think it was upto nearer 30-40% rate .

That unit has been sold for over 30 years which I think is testament to its reliability over the years and the simple component design . The 3amp little brother that I modded  is still going strong I spoke to its owner earlier this eve and must be at least 20 years old  I my self have A 30 amp mason psu with twin meters as I am also a licensed radio operator 

Paul

1 hour ago, saac said:

Thanks for that, I must admit I've always had good a experience with Maplin, they do tend to be very reasonable.  I've been a bit silly though - I opened the faulty psu to have a look inside.  The variable resistor you described was  there (2 x) one I believe to control the regulated output the other not sure - part of the regulation circuit.  Could not see anything obvious - capacitors all looked good as was the external fuse.  On the back panel it says there is also a internal fuse but I couldn't spot it - maybe a thermal fuse on the transformer - something was wrapped in heat-shrink coming off the transformer. I may yet have a word with Maplin to see if there is anything they can do but I'd need to let them know I've opened it - I think that will the killer - ach well lessons learned.  

 

Jim

Hi Jim

Unfortunately if there signs of tampering they will not touch with a barge pole. I started as a Technical sales assistant when Maplins  were renowned for their expertise and i made the lofty heights of   shop manger 9 years later.  

  But all is not lost any good electronics enthusiast could probably fix it  but need to put a multi meter and a basic scope to find out where the fault is but my best guess it is still the regulator because you still a have dc voltage and 21 volts output and plenty of current, The transformer is good and  is big enough to cope it may be  a 24v dual wound transformer. so it has to be on the output side beyond the bridge rectifier stage as you have dc voltage just hence no regulation only full output. I do not suspect any fuses at this time. capacitors  will sometimes have bulge on top but not always there may be a transistor or diode as well. The fact there are two variable resistors one is voltage and the other is for current possibly connected to the big metal transistor on the heat sink on the rear, looking at a LM723 voltage regulator IC circuit pins 4 and sometimes Pin3 along with pin 13 is volt set pins this is as an example but this getting into technical territory.

Paul 

Hi Jim

i was just reading your thread contrary to popular myth you do not require a receipt as an ex Maplin manager a proof of purchase is all that is required  IE a bank statement and also i can confirm that there is a fault with regulator unless they have change the regulation circuit there is an internal variable resistor to adjust the voltage i had great success in turning one of these into a variable voltage psu by mounting a pot variable resistor out to the front panel.

Hi Neil 

Good Luck with build i am just slightly ahead of you i am just about to concrete the pier  if the weather this weekend is dry.