pie_in_the_sky

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately with the redcat Jupiter is a large dot, with the moons as smaller dots. Quite interesting but doesn't have the impact of a nebular at this focal length.

Might give Orion one last blast of the season before taking a look at those other recommendations. Cheers.

Out of interest, how do you decide how long to wait post-sunset to start observing? Do you just eye-ball it or is there a rule / process that you follow? Makes sense to get set up at dusk to maximise time.

So I have a cloud free night tomorrow - I can’t believe it’s the first one since Jan…

Anyway, by now have I missed Orion? Would it be better to wait until next year? I’m conscious that it will be quite low now and more exposed to light pollution (I’ve got street lamps nearby). Probably for the best - getting slightly obsessed with Orion.

I know we’re not quite in milky way season so what else is good this time of year? Pleiades I think are also too low right now. 

I could maybe stretch to get a 5 x barlow extender so that Bode / Cigar galaxy are an option…this wouldn’t be an option for tomorrow though. EDIT seems Barlows are not great / do not work with RedCat 51s - https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/813443-william-optics-redcat-51-with-barlow-2-or-4-x/#:~:text=To bring the Redcat 51,it to come to focus.

What other targets do you go for in Spring / Summer?

I’m using a modded Canon 600D and a Redcat51 (no guiding) for context and am based in East Anglia.

Cheers

So, I have used this intervalometer with a separate camera and everything worked as it should but I had never used the wireless feature at the distance I had this time around. This was ~15m away. All previously successful shoots, the distance has been ~2m at most. My thoughts now are that the issue is one or a combo of these:

-low battery in either unit of the intervalometer

-interference (would explain why the camera was triggered to take 1000 pics)

-loss of connection between the intervalometer base unit and receiver causing off behaviour with the camera

-lack of interval causing some issue

I just remembered that I had a cheap, old, wire-only intervalometer. I've just run a test with an interval of 5 seconds, 100 pics @ 1 minute each. I ended up with 99 pics on target, 1 at 59 and 1 at 53. Obviously a much better error rate. So it's looking good, great info - thanks all!

Now just hoping for some cloud free nights to try again properly!

2 hours ago, Swillis said:

Have you got mirror lockup set?  I had issues when trying to use this with an intervalometer. Also, you might want to check if exposure bracketing on?

Simon

 

 

What's a mirror lockup set ? Probably answers your question... The camera was factory reset when I got it (had to re-enter date & time) so I assume any bracketing that may have been set up previously would have also been reset. Will check this though - even with bracketing though we should only be looking at double or triple the pictures though right? It's weird that there are >1000.

I've just run another test, 152 photos @ 1min exposures. There are only 78 captured, oddly one of them is in portrait mode...I wonder if the camera needs a short 1 or 2 second interval set.

2 hours ago, Elp said:

I'd run a few repeat tests (can be done anytime). If the intervalometer is set and the cameras in bulb mode it'll take based on what was set on the intervalometer. 

This is what I don't understand. I initially thought I'd incorrectly set the intervalometer to just take 1 second photos, but then I saw the seemingly random spread of exposures. Also the intervalometer only goes up to 200 shots, i.e. I can't even set it to take 1000 pics. Also, see above I just ran a test. All correct exposures but only half the expected amount.

21 minutes ago, PhilB61 said:

It's hard to say what went wrong without knowing what intervalometer you used, what settings, what camera settings etc

Camera is set to Bulb, 800 iso. Intervalometer was set to take 100 pics, no interval, no delay, 1 minute exposures. The intervalometer is this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078GDBK5D?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

22 minutes ago, PhilB61 said:

I would probably start by doing a factory reset of the camera, just in case there are any strange settings the previous user had setup

Yep - The camera prompted to enter date and time when it arrived. I assume this means it was factory reset?? It's a good call though, I'll do that and try again.

Thanks for the responses everyone!

Hi all, I've just bought a modded dslr (second hand 600d). I tested it last night and reviewing the pics today, it seems something went wrong. I set it running with an intervalometer to take 100 pics @ 1 min exposures. It too 1000+ over a range of exposures, mostly ~900 @ 1s with only about 15 at the target. What have I done wrong? Have you had anything like this happen before?

Hi all,

As the slightly verbose title suggests - a month or two ago I would perform two star alignment using Dubhe (near Polaris) and Rigel (near Orion neb). Now though, when I pick Dubhe I can't then select Rigel (or vice versa).

I'm assuming there is some ruleset in the app that determines what stars can be used, for example I notice you can't pick two stars in the same constellation. Does anyone know what the logic is used by the app to determine which stars are available for 2+ star alignment and/or why I was able to choose the stars mentioned and now can't?

Ta

Here's my humble effort. Didn't have a lot of time but was keen to have a go on data from a 'proper' camera. Background was a challenge, I think it's strayed into being over-processed / unnatural look though. Particularly when trying to neutralise the red a bit outside the nebula.

The camera and raw data is amazing though - you don't need a separate set of under exposed captures.

Oh I like that. I've just had my second run at processing m42 to get the core under control (https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/418428-m42-orions-nebula-first-attempt-at-multiple-exposures-stacking-please-critique/).

I had to go back and take low exposure subs and re-do processing. Did you take multiple exposures / how did you handle the core processing?

I think I've got clear skies tonight, but next cloudy one I'm definitely having a look at that tif!

Cheers

Hope you don't mind me resurrecting this post but I took the feedback and a) captured another set of lower exposure photos of the core; b) completely reprocessed to incorporate the overall feedback and also blend in the core.

I'll drop the original in first so a before and after is easier. I think this is the best I can do with current gear, as always though feedback more than welcome. I know there is a colour cast on the background of the new image. Background in general is a bit funky, I focused solely on the nebula plus the background artefacts are due to manually aligning the original image with the new, differently framed low exposure version and then blending them together.

Cheers

original

new version, reprocessed + core

Cheers the recommendations all!

Yep, looks like Juan's website isn't live. I'm not too fussed about day time photography, happy to lose AF.

Hi All,

I have an opportunity to buy a cheap Canon 600D (<£100). I was toying with the idea of getting it to replace my currect 700D with the intention to then mod the 600D for astrophotography.

Couple of questions, who would you recommend to do the mod here in the UK? Alternatively, how difficult is it to do yourself?

Somewhat related to this last question, what are the typical mods for astrophotography, specifically for DSO? I know the baseline mod is to remove the stock IR filter. Does this tend to be replaced with anything?

Cheers

Thanks Mandy / Elp.

I think I'll take a look at the lens collar for now and look at the Benro a bit further down the line (I did find it £100 cheaper on a reseller site vs. direct).

Thanks for the info - very helpful and will keep it in mind when I come to upgrade.

This seems like a sensible place for this question...let me know if not.

I bought a dovetail bar so I can directly mount a DSLR to my SkyWatcher Star Adventurer GTi. As you'd expect, the camera ends up at all sorts of angles. What do you use to level / compose / orient the camera when mounting direct?

I've see some geared options that look like they would do the trick but spending as much (or much more) than my actual mount on something like this seems OTT.

I've read mixed reviews of ball-head mounts. They would probably work for what I need but interested in what others use. Are there any other options out there?

Cheers

On 31/01/2024 at 13:33, Elp said:

The RA is an overpriced camera for what it is. Much better to get a standard modded body, or an astro camera will be far better due to better quantum efficiency and cleaner noise profile, especially if it's a cooled one (you can use uncooled ones for DSO I do it all the time and they're comparable to cooled).

It's a good point - new I could buy a colour and a mono...although I have been offered a Ra for £1500 (photographer I knew bought one on a whim and doesn't like it...). Still though, it's a lot of money at this stage.

For a Canon crop sensor, what would you say is a decent option for a modden DSLR? Quick follow up - from what I've read crop sensors seem to be preferred to full-frame. Is that the case?

On 31/01/2024 at 15:25, Icesheet said:

It is a stock camera but the use of an additional Ha filter is not redundant. In fact in some scenarios it will be highly recommended. Although the Ra is more sensitive to the Ha spectrum than a normal EOS R it still benefits from a filter with a narrow band pass to really bring out those Ha emissions. 
 

It sounds like you are more tended towards DSO photography and in that case for the price of an EOS Ra you could have a very good dedicated astro camera and a decent stock mirrorless for daytime photography. 
 

For me an Ra or modded camera really come into their own when you are primarily shooting astro landscapes and might only shoot DSO stuff now and again. Bear in mind many telescopes don’t  support full frame. 
 

There is no doubt that an EOS Ra can be your only astro camera. Check out a guy called Mark Shelley but if you want it do it all it’s not worth the compromise in my opinion. I have a modded EOS R btw. Use it exclusively for astro landscapes. 

Cheers - yep, looking into it some more I could get a couple of ZWOs for the same price new! That's a good point though about a dedicated astro and a stock camera for daytime. You're right about the DSO - it's probably going to be mainly DSO with occasional landscapes.

It sounds like you're all in on the mirrorless. What took you away from DSLR? Out of interest, what DSLR (modded) would you say is a good option?

Last one, can you expand on the point about scopes not supporting full frame - is this because it results in vignetting or is there something else?

On 31/01/2024 at 15:27, geeklee said:

All an Ha filter (or multi band filter) will do is block other wavelengths of light getting through.  Without it, the Ra still lets more-than-typical-DSLR Ha through but it will be alongside the rest of the broadband spectrum.  It won't be redundant, but could be useful if you want to bring out the Ha emissions.

I've probably been thinking about filters wrong. Rather than saying they 'boost' one thing over another, is it more accurate to say they block everything else and leave whatever your target is. I.e. a Ha filter doesn't boost Ha, rather it leaves that behind after filtering out other frequencies? That might be a bit rambling but am I on the right track?

btw, that pic is from http://www.stubmandrel.co.uk/astronomy/18-focusing-with-a-bahtinov-mask (not a secure site)

Hi,

What are you trying to capture - star, planet, nebula?

For deep sky (stars and nebula - which I'm assuming you're doing with the redcat), the process I started with was to turn the ISO on the camera up as high as possible (this is temporary, just for focusing) and then try and use the preview screen. For this you'll need to turn on the live preview mode. The 2000D definitely has this feature - a quick workflow recommendation, turn off the live preview mode timer otherwise you'll forever be turning it back on when it times out.

The focusing process is then to turn the focus wheel on the redcat and try and make the stars as small as possible.

A better option though is to use the bahtinov mask that is inside the lens cap of the redcat. The idea here is similar to the process above but you want to make as clear an X as possible across the bright stars in the preview screen.

If you can't see anything, take a couple of test shots with the mask on and you should see the clear X pattern on the stars - if you don't see this pattern you don't have focus and need to adjust. Like this

Then when you're done, reset the camera settings and remove the mask if used (which I've forgotten to do in the past).

For both options, it may help to zoom in on the preview screen.

If it's something closer, i.e. the moon, then capture the moon in the view finder, zoom in on the camera, and then focus.

That's a very quick summary - happy to dive into the particulars...

Hi all,

I know these types of questions are quite subjective and can be pointless as there is no right or wrong just personal preferences but...

What are your thoughts on the Canon Ra? I'm someway off upgrading my gear but am still interested to see what's out there. I see the value of a dedicated Astro-only camera (like the ZWO-type cameras) but I like the interactive element of a DSLR/Mirrorless and also would ideally like the dual purpose of an astro camera and a daytime camera which in theory the Ra would give you. I know some post prod is needed though when using the Ra in the day time.

How does the Ra stack up against the older 60Da?

I see lots of people raving about the Ra but the cynic in me suspects they are paid promotions.

I also see Astronomik making their incredibly subtle point: Please note that Canons Astro-Version "Ra" of the R-body shows strong halos around brighter stars! (Even without any filter) We highly recommend NOT to get a Ra! (https://www.astronomik.com/en/clip-filter/clip-filter-fur-canon-eos-r-eos-rp.html).

From what I understand Astronomik are fairly well regarded in the community so this likely carries a lot of weight...

As the forum says here https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4522351, Astronomik likely wrote that before they knew there was a fix. Regardless, it seems bonkers to me that a £2.5k camera needs a ~£200 filter (assuming I'm looking at the right one) to make it work for its intended purpose. I'd understand daytime photography needing some extra effort, it being an astro camera first, but not for its primary purpose.

I realise I may have essentially answered my own questions - curious though to hear your thoughts.

Couple of technical bonus questions:

• Is the Ra considered a stock or modded camera?
• My understanding is that a Ha filter is redundant on the Ra. Is that correct?

Cheers

Thanks Olly. I had included steps similar to that - using a layer mask and the brush tool to take down opacity on the blown out, stretched layer for the less stretched one below. The issues are that a) I didn't know what the core should look like, going back through my layers I can see that I accidentally discarded some of the detail in the core...but b) even the linear pic has the core blown out. I'll definitely combine this approach with some shorter exposed stacks to try and bring it back. Thanks for the info - your version is great!

Mono definitely seems the way to go, although I think it will be some time before I upgrade.

Now to persuade my other half that we need a family holiday in the South of France

Ok, this is interesting. A great rabbit hole for me to go down.

Is 'one shot colour' what you call a colour camera that captures all colours in a single frame?

The Ha filter can be used in one shot colour cameras too right (assuming my definition of one shot colour is correct)? I mean it's not just for mono.

It looks like you can capture more fine detail with mono - I assume some overhead related to colour capture is avoided. Perhaps it's just a perception thing due to contrast levels.

Last question (not a guarantee ) - does using a mono cam mean that your photo count is tripled (when using 3 filters)? I.e. you have to take the same pic with each filter.

Mono kit is definitely something I will look into when it comes time to upgrade. I can't put my finger on it but there's something about those pictures...

@geeklee Hijacking my own thread to ask - I've just been looking at your Astrobin. Some fantastic pictures in there! I really like the mono pics.

How do you end up with colour pics with a mono camera. Is this done when the picture is taken - wondering if you use RGB filters with the scope / camera or is it done in post-pic processing? Do Ha filters dual purpose boost light from nebulau and filter light pollution - or does this depend on the particular Ha filter?

Cheers Lee. Blown away by the comments. I liked the pic myself but had thought there would have been lots of issues pointed out. Chuffed overall.

I'm going to revisit the core and see if I can improve - itching to capture something else though.

Thanks Onikkinen

Thanks Chris.

Ah yep - I mentioned in the other post that I thought the core was just a bright glowing cloud (I've got a lot to learn!) so this is really helpful. This is going to be tricky to get right. I'll see what I can do and hopefully post a follow up.