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tezz

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Posts posted by tezz

  1. 10 minutes ago, Shimrod said:

    There are two ways in which you can make the image 'bigger'. One is to see a wider field of view (so you see more of the tree) and the other is to increase the magnification. You can of course combine both of these at the same time. To increase  the field of view you are looking for eyepieces with a higher field of view, measured in degrees - the Celestron 40mm eyepiece is probably around 45-50 degrees. You might want to consider 68/70 degree eyepieces or 82 degree eyepieces. To gain increased magnification you want an eyepiece with a lower mm measurement - there is a trade-off though at which the magnification is too high and you don't gain anything in image quality.

    You might want to start off with a cheaper set of eyepieces while you work out what sort of objects you prefer looking at - the Svbony 68 degree range are well regarded at the budget end and a full set is £144 on amazon. Alternatively the BST starguider range from FLO would also be a good choice.

     

     

    I will look at both the eyepiece sets now.

    Sorry to be a pain to you all.

  2. 3 minutes ago, Knighty2112 said:

    Was there a reason you needed to set the mount so high that you had to put the diagonal in sideways rather than the normal way of straight up? I have a Nexstar SE goto mount whichis similar to your mount, and never set it up at maximum height as this impedes viewing through the EP when viewing things low down in the sky,  unless of course you are a 6’ 10” high basket ball player! 😆

     

    I have it high because it housed in my specially made shed.

    I am disabled in a chair. So it's a bit hard  :)

    shed.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. 21 minutes ago, Philip R said:

    Hi @tezz Maksutov’s and SCT’s do require a lot of turning of the focus knob, either clockwise or anti-clockwise. Think of the focus shaft as a length of threaded rod.

    To get a higher magnification you will need eyepieces with lower numbers. Also the higher the magnification then you may have to place your pupil directly over the centre of the eyepiece, otherwise you may end up with a ‘blackout‘ when looking thought it if not centred. Also what is budget for individual eyepieces? Some wide-angle eyepieces may/will induce vignetting.

    Have you got a 90 degree star diagonal? 45 degree diagonals are normally used when viewing nature/terrestrial objects.

    Another tip… I don’t fully extend my tripod legs… vibrations will take longer eliminate/calm down if they are fully extended.

     

     

    It's the 90 degree that came with the scope.

    I do have a 2X barlow that I haven't tried as yet.

    There is no vibration as I have celestron anti vibration cups and the floor under the mount has soft rubber squares.

    I was just surprised at the minute image I got in the centre of the eyepiece .

    I do have a ZWO camera and a focus motor to fit.

    But I will get used to using it first this way, and learn a bit more.

    Maybe one day they will have auto focus like my 150-800 zoom lens has.

  4. 11 minutes ago, Shimrod said:

    The image should become a lot bigger! If the tree is very close you might not be able to get it into focus - try and pick something at least 100m away, and preferably a lot further - when testing my telescope I use a water tower around 3 miles away. 

    On a SCT it can take a lot of turns of the focus knob to travel the full length of the focus range so don't give up if nothing immediately changes - it can feel a like a really long time when using the focus motor!

     

    Could you advise on a eyepiece to make the image bigger?

    Thank you very much.

  5. 8 minutes ago, Cosmic Geoff said:

    It seems that the view through the eyepiece is out of focus.  As a novice, and with the telescope out of focus, it may take some time to figure out which way to wind the focus knob to get it in focus.  Note also that if you point the telescope at a bright point source (e.g. Venus) and it is out of focus, you will see a bright donut with a black hole in the middle (the shadow of the secondary mirror). In this case finding focus is a no-brainer - just wind the focus in the direction that makes  the donut smaller.

    Yes. the view will also be reversed L-R.

    If the 40mm eyepiece is a 1.25" fit, the field of view circle is going to be quite small anyway.

     

    Thank you for your answer.

    The image I see is very small. And yes it's the 1.25 thatcame with the scope.

    If I do as you say, will the image become bigger?

    What eyepiece should I buy to see a bigger image?

    Thanks again.

     

  6. Hi all.

    I have setup me evolution 9.25.

    The mount legs are out as far as possible. And it is perfectly flat when the telescope is mounted.

    Because of the height I had to turn the diagonal 45 degrees to the right so I can see in to it.

    I followed the instructions and put the 40mm eyepiece in.

    All I can see is a perfect circle with a black hole in the middle!

    I was trying to align the scope to the top of a tree. The round circle was so small I could not see a thing.

    So I took out the 40mm and just used the diagonal. I could then see the tree top and lined it up.

    I put back the 40mm and I see just a very small round disc in the middle of the eyepiece still with a black hole in the centre.

    I had 6 friends come round and all asked why the white disc was so small? and why is there a black round space in the middle.?

    What am I doing wrong>

    Thank you for your time. 

     

    EDIT= When I see a roof of a house, its at and angle. Is that because I have the diagonal at a angle?

  7. On 12/03/2023 at 20:52, Cosmic Geoff said:

    very small chance of vibration? That remains to be seen - unless you have an update?  I have found that even with paving slabs laid on soil, if one's foot presses on the same slab that a tripod leg is resting on, it causes a disturbance at the eyepiece.  I would expect that If you have a telescope and a human at opposite ends of a raised wooden floor, the vibration transmission would be significant.  Some DIY observatory builders go to the lengths of isolating a concrete pier foundation from a cast concrete floor slab.

    But if you are sticking to the plan you originally indicated, of observing remotely from inside the house, the flexing floor should not be a problem.

     

     

    My floor does not flex much if any.

    I put a digital level on the floor and didn't see much movement.

    I have bought  3 anti vibration cups which are made by Celestron.

    And my rubber floor goes down this weekend. 

    It will be glued and stapled to the floor. And the is a railway sleeper under the floor.

    I am trying to work on a few Nema 17 motors to move the roof.

    If it works out, I will have no need to go in to the clubhouse when it's setup for that night.

     

    • Like 1
  8. Just a small update.

     

    I still haven't moved things in to the clubhouse as I am waiting to hear back from Glover & Howe Insurance Services.

    Hopefully it will be next week.

    All locks are on and the rubber flooring is going down this weekend.

    I have bought a Celestron 9.25 heater ring. I have not bought the £200+ power supply for it.

    I got one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wefomey-Universal-Adjustable-Switching-100V-240V/dp/B0BLHFB32P/ref=sr_1_10?crid=JYBTN7BPW6E7&keywords=Power+Supply+DC+3V+4V+4.5V+5V+6V+7V+7.5V+8V+9V+10V+11V+12V+Adjustable+Variable+Power+Adapter+100V-240V+AC&qid=1679654443&sprefix=power+supply+dc+3v+4v+4.5v+5v+6v+7v+7.5v+8v+9v+10v+11v+12v+adjustable+variable+power+adapter+100v-240v+ac%2Caps%2C69&sr=8-10

    I also bought a ZWO electric mini wheel(it was very cheap) 

  9. On 01/03/2023 at 15:32, Carbon Brush said:

    A suggestion or two on security if I may?

    Do not put your security features in an obvious place. Big padlock and hasp says 'insert crowbar here'.
    Alternatively it says go for the hinge side instead.

    Apply lower levels of security, but have several in place so even if they defeat one, they have to spend time on the next.
    That way they are more likely to leave.

    My observatory looks very much like an ordinary shed with (from the outside) ordinary cheap lock and hinges.
    If you took a prybar to it, you would find it didn't give way as expected.
    I won't discuss the details on open forum. Suffice it to say Burglar Bill would I think give it a try, then look elsewhere.
    He might damage the door, but he would not get in.

    Consider fitting an alarm system based on an after market car alarm. These run for ages on a 12V battery.
    Unlike house alarms they are intended to work in temperature extremes.
    The decent models accept several inputs from normally closed, or normally open switches corresponding to door switches, bonnet switch, etc.
    Use the switch inputs to trigger if the door is opened, or the roof is moved.
    You can run a thin wire around the walls that will break if a plank gets pried off. Again using a switch input.
    They also have shock and vibration sensing - car park nudge alarm. This comes into play if someone decides to hammer off the padlock or hinges.

    When the alarm does go, install LOUD sounders inside the shed. Make it painful to stay.
    If it is loud inside they can't hear anyone approach from outside so are likely to leave.
    Big bright lights on alarm trigger are a good idea.
    Do not rely on a single sounder, or a single light - site them so they are not easily disabled by a brick or hammer.

    All of the above are on my observatory.

    HTH, David.


     

    Good advice.

    I've bought a waterproof Yale lock for the first door and a Yale motion sensor.

    Door 2 will have lock that's used on the back of vans.

    I've secured the movable rook with locks on the inside.

    Just waiting for the carriage bolts to replace every screw in each door hing.

    If they get in after that. Fair play to them

  10. On 28/02/2023 at 12:29, carastro said:

    Great observatory.  If you say the guys had a four hour drive home, can you tell me where they are based please.   I am asking on berhalf of some-one else I know who is wanting to get an observatory built.

    Carole  

     

    The post above gives you the site.

    Or follow the link and you will see a picture with the phone numbers on.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282153730577

     Mine came from Skegness but the same company.

    • Thanks 1
  11. On 28/02/2023 at 12:29, carastro said:

    Great observatory.  If you say the guys had a four hour drive home, can you tell me where they are based please.   I am asking on berhalf of some-one else I know who is wanting to get an observatory built.

    Carole  

     

    The post above gives you the site.

    Or follow the link and you will see a picture with the phone numbers on.

     Mine came from Skegness but the same company.

  12. On 28/02/2023 at 12:29, carastro said:

    Great observatory.  If you say the guys had a four hour drive home, can you tell me where they are based please.   I am asking on berhalf of some-one else I know who is wanting to get an observatory built.

    Carole  

     

    The post above gives you the site.

    Or follow the link and you will see a picture with the phone numbers on.

     Mine came from Skegness but the same company.

  13. On 28/02/2023 at 12:29, carastro said:

    Great observatory.  If you say the guys had a four hour drive home, can you tell me where they are based please.   I am asking on berhalf of some-one else I know who is wanting to get an observatory built.

    Carole  

     

    The post above gives you the site.

    Or follow the link and you will see a picture with the phone numbers on.

     Mine came from Skegness but the same company.

  14. On 28/02/2023 at 14:39, Mark2022 said:

    Is the rail a v groove or u groove? Are the casters metal or nylon rollers? I live outside a main town and, at early  hours of the morning, you can hear a pin drop. I'm  even worried about the sound of my eQ5 pro or LX10 mount. Anyone with a window open, even 50 yards or more away, will hear the motors so just being a bit paranoid about noise level.

     

    If you look at the last picture you will see a u\v shape.

  15. 21 hours ago, Swoop1 said:

    I'm not certain but I spy a crutch in the images. If tezz has mobility challenges, DIY for some of the suggestions may be more than tezz would want to attempt?

    Sorry if I'm off base tezz.

    Very nice obsy BTW though I'm a bit distressed they didn't put their sliipers on to prevent muddying the floor😉

     

     

    Yes i am disabled.

    I use a electric wheelchair most of the time.

    I have some rubber flooring(black) coming next week.

    It was a rainy day so I just let the guys get on with as the have a 4 hour drive home.

    • Thanks 1
  16. 19 hours ago, Mark2022 said:

    Hi Tezz,

    I've been gathering timber for some time with the intention of building a small observatory on a 'terrace' (about 4x4m) above a car port. Unfortunately, the floor of the terrace is made  of wood beams and there is a little play in it as you traverse across it. However, that's by the by. There was/is  a flip top lid, small obs, I'm also considering, however, I like  the look/idea of this one too. One of my main concerns with building either, is the noise made when opening closing the roof because I have neighbours very close by who I wouldn't wish to disturb at 2am or 3am. Can you give me an  idea  of how much noise is  produced when rolling the roof open? Would you also be able/willing to share some aspects of the build (even tho built for you), dimensions of timber used,  casters and caster  rail type etc?

    Thanks.

     

    I can not hear a thing.

    I did put some grease on. It only goes back 5ft.

    I think the gears in the evolution will make more nose.   :)

  17. On 25/02/2023 at 11:15, malc-c said:

    Interesting design... Keep an eye on the ROR section as an unbraced roof will want to drop slightly due to expansion and contraction from heatwaves in the summer and sub zero temps in winter.  Other than that it looks to be a sturdy well build observatory.   Can't see from the pictures, but did you leave a hole in the floor so the mount sits on a solid base?  If not then you may find the flexure of the floor will be transmitted through to the mount and scope.

    No hole.

    The cost of someone to do it all is to much.

    The first room is were a laptop will go.

    The second room is were the scope will go.

    So there is a very small chance of vibration.

  18. 11 hours ago, Steve Ward said:

    Line the walls with ply/osb or similar.

    All looks fine and dandy now on delivery as everything's tight and freshly made/treated , but when it gets to summertime and everything's dried out and shrunk somewhat the sturdy looking shed will become a different and unstable wobbly thing that will have you frustrated/annoyed.

    This is coming from someone with nigh-on 40 years experience of designing and building sectional wooden buildings not just some random thought by the way.

    Thank you.

    Doing what you said would cost to much money as I would have to hire someone.

  19. On 19/02/2023 at 07:55, Shimrod said:

    There are a number of threads on here about insuring equipment left in observatories. You may find this one a useful read. https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/349022-observatory-insurance/#comment-3797362

    Given the amount you have spent on equipment I think not spending the £75 to change to a more comprehensive policy is a false economy. For me it would be worth it for peace of mind and to get the observatory set up earlier.

     

    They are a bad company that put excess costs on top.

    And there off shore team are next to useless. 

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