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Froglord

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Posts posted by Froglord

  1. Thanks for all the replies, everyone!

    @Louis D I've thought about upgrading the visual back, but that would mean a lot more expense: a new visual back, a 2" diagonal/prism and 2" eyepieces. I wouldn't say 'never', but I've decided not to for now. The wider field sounds great, but the drop in brightness puts me off a bit.

    As for the 30mm NPL, I like it optically, but find the eye placement really problematic. As a long focal length plossl, it should have lots of eye relief, but the lens is so recessed that I can't see the full field (of only 50°) without mashing my glasses hard into my eye socket! Even with glasses off and the cup raised it still doesn't sit right.

    As a replacement for the NPL, I was hoping to find something with a slightly wider field (usable field, with glasses on) and better eye relief. I was assuming I'd be able to get something optically better too, but it sounds like there may be no significant difference in such a slow scope.

  2. I know the Mak will never be truly widefield, but I'm looking for a nice 1.25" eyepiece to maximise the field, with a budget of maybe £100-120. Also I need good eye relief for glasses, which I'm estimating at 17mm absolute minimum, and preferably nearer 20mm.

    Assuming a focal length of 1500mm and an aperture of 120mm (based on reports that it's not a full 127mm), this gives a focal ratio of f/12.5.

    I'm pondering these:

    • Stellalyra 24mm UFF 65°, giving 63x and a 1.92mm exit pupil.
    • ES 26mm 62°, giving 58x and a 2.08mm exit pupil.
    • ES 30mm 52°, giving 50x and a 2.40mm exit pupil.

    Has anyone used these in a slow scope like mine?

    Any other options I might consider? (No, not the Panoptic 24mm - it costs more than my scope!).

  3. 6 minutes ago, Mr Spock said:

    You can get longer screws. I'm sure FLO will have something suitable.

     

    6 minutes ago, John said:

    You could put a 1.25 inch par-focalisation ring on the eyepiece barrel. This would lift it up a few mm and then it would clear that screw on the diagonal. For a solution that would help all eyepieces you could simply change the screws used on the diagonal for slimmer / longer ones ?

    Worth looking into. Thanks, guys!

    • Like 1
  4. 16 hours ago, Knighty2112 said:

    Or fit the EP into the diagonal inside your house before you go outside, then fit the diagonal with the EP in to the scope outside as the screws to tighten in to the back of the scope are much easier to access and screw tight. 

    Still makes it a faff trying to change eyepieces in the field.

    I suppose I could go 'full SGL' and buy one scope for each eyepiece ... 🤣

    • Like 1
  5. 17 hours ago, Knighty2112 said:

    You don’t have to put the full barrel down into the slot into the diagonal. Leave the EP slightly higher so that it is secure still but with enough room to tighten the screw up better. Leave the EP about 5mm higher which should make it easier to do the screw.

    Thanks, Knightly (Rush fan, by any chance?).

    Is this what people do? Is it really that simple? I've tried this with the Hyperion Zoom and it works well, but then it has a ridged barrel for the screw to grip. On eyepieces with a smoother barrel I'd be worried about slippage. I'll have to give it a try.

    • Like 1
  6. This is driving me slightly nuts. How do you screw in or unscrew an eyepiece when the screw is hard up against the barrel of the eyepiece? I've attached a picture of the Baader Hyperion Zoom IV on my Skymax 127 prism diagonal, and the barrel is touching the screw.

    This makes things fiddly and difficult, especially with hands numbed by the cold.

    I'm sure one of you must have a brilliant solution ...

    P1220566.JPG

  7. Hello, David, and welcome to SGL!

    I'm a few miles south-west of you, in Denmead, and would definitely be up for a few viewing sessions.

    I'm also fairly new to the hobby and so far I've kept my viewing to the back garden, front drive and the local park (whose abundance of trees shield many of the local street lights).

    However I've been meaning to get out to a dark sky site. The most promising locally seems to be Old Winchester Hill. Have you been there yet, and if so, how was it?

    • Like 1
  8. 4 hours ago, Kobayashi Maru said:

    Purchased new telescope when I’m wanting to do a lot of observing…clouds….so many fking clouds. Get a clear night after weeks of clouds. Set alarm for 2am. Woke up to observe…full moon. 

    Well, at least you had one target to observe!

    • Haha 1
  9. I took the 127 Mak into the back garden last night for a quick look at the stars.

    Towards the end of the session I thought I'd have a look at the Orion Nebula. Found it in the finderscope, switched to the main scope and ... no, nothing. Moved the AZ mount around a bit, found some stars, moved back to M42 in the finder. Still nothing from the scope. I repeated this several times.

    Clouds? No. Alignment? No. Fogging of the eyepiece? No. For several minutes I was mystified.

    It turns out the finderscope was just clearing the garden fence and the Mak ... wasn't.

    I put it down to the cold!

    Anyone else care to share their rookie mistakes? You'd be doing us all a great public service, after all.

    • Like 2
    • Haha 4
  10. I popped out a couple of days ago with just a pair of 10x42 binoculars and a phone with SkySafari on it for navigation. Really quick and easy! Saw loads of stuff: Andromeda, Pleiades, Orion Nebula, Bode's Galaxy, a couple of passing satellites. Mars was out but didn't seem remotely as red as normal.

    I'm always amazed how the different colours of stars becomes so apparent through binoculars.

    • Like 3
  11. 53 minutes ago, Neil_104 said:

    Perhaps if your current binos have inferior coatings and the new 10x50s have better coatings then this could certainly make a difference.

    Yes, I was wondering if astro binos might have coatings that better suit night-time use, or if there might be other factors besides aperture - such as gas purging or ED glass - that would make a significant difference.

  12. I've just been out for a quick stargazing session with my binoculars, which I bought years ago for general daytime use. They're Bushnell Powerviews, 10x42.

    I was wondering if I could get a significantly better set of dedicated astro binoculars in the 10x50 format for, say, £100-200. Or should I save my cash and stick with what I've got? (I realise this might be a silly question - it's always fun spending other peoples' money!)

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