Speedmaster

13 hours ago, Scooot said:

The 4 DC output ports were dead on my Asiair pro when I first bought it and it was replaced.

Oh that’s quite a thing. Lucky it was new, mine is used so can’t do anything. 
 

but the device does work great, it’s just that I can’t use the dc outputs. So either I buy a brand new plus or I buy a 12v dc splitter cable. 
 

thanks for your input. 

I just tested the outputs and I get 0V on the 4 outputs. Seems like they got burned somehow…

1 hour ago, Elp said:

Have you tried it with only the camera connected to the asiair?

Have you tried another device via the four 12v outs to check they're all working?

Are you using better cables than the ones supplied with the camera?

Thanks for your reply.
 

Only the camera is connected. 

don’t have any other 12v gear

no, only zwo cables. But I tried the 3 dC cables that came with the aap.

as soon as I use another power supply into the cam’s body it lightens up and it’s recognized by the app. Can’t seem to make this 4 outputs from the aap work. 
 

Plus, there is no info at all regarding voltage or power consumption in the app as it should be. Maybe I can test for power with a voltmeter. 

Hi There. Very happy owner of a brand new 2600mc pro, I can’t get it to work with my aap. ASIAIR is powered through a lifepo4 external battery, and the camera through the external aap’s dc output. My problem is that there is no power through those outputs. I did put the 4 of them “on” on the app but nothing. And the camera is not even recognized in the app. 
 

the voltage info (the ins and outs) says n/a…

output from the battery is 12V@8A max so plenty of power. 
 

thanks for your input.  

On 01/02/2023 at 19:07, Stephenstargazer said:

• There is a small gap between the bolt and spacer that lets it hang vertical, but the (threaded) spacer is hand tight on the mount
• the bracket is sheet aluminium with folded edges- made in shed !
• the neoprene bag came with the power pack (12v and USB) from Ridge Monkey. The velcro strap is tight and grips the neoprene.

That’s a very nice set up. What’s the battery sir? Looks tiny for a 12v. 

On 31/01/2023 at 13:27, Space Hopper said:

I'm interested in this myself.

I know Neils Haagh, who runs Panther mounts in Denmark often stacks 30s subs without using the field de-rotation device and the results are pretty good.

I think 30s is the limit though, depending on focal length / target etc

30s That’s pretty good though. More than enough I think  

Is guiding possible with an altaz ?

Any try outs with cameras ? Not crazy long exposures but just to see if the mount can track enough for simple ap. 

I’ve read here and there that this mount is not suitable if you don’t guide, is that true? 
i don’t guide and don’t intend to for now so I was wondering if that moiint would be a good choice. 

Small question regarding the EP weight. Is it not supposed to solve the Bino balance issue right?

how does it work? Because of you balance your scope with it installed, as soon as you take off the EP the scope will go loose.  

Just saw it on fcbk and on their website. A bit overpriced for me, was expecting 800-900 max but given the current worldwide sh** show I presume it is acceptable. 
 

dont see the manual online. I hope it will be available so we can have a small taste of what’s the motor system is capable of,how it is working with nexus…etc
 

Hi. 
 

to the lucky testers, did you try some imaging ?

how long should we be hoping for exposure time? I’ve read a long time ago that 30-35s should to do it. 
 

thx

On 08/07/2022 at 18:27, Dek Rowan Astro said:

OK 🙂 , inspired by Stu and the photos above😉 we're working on balance weights and shafts for AZ100 and AZ75.

Weights will fit the pan handle for eyepiece weight / change and also a front mounted  bracket and shaft for balancing binoviewers etc. which should provide weight and angle of dangle suitable for most situations.

ATB

Derek.

 

 

Beautiful !! Just as I was starting to figure something out for mine.
 

balancing is really critical on that mount, and I would say it’s a weak point. That and the lack of locking on the alt axis. Break is pretty strong but still only a break. But As someone said earlier, placing the instrument vertically (at zenith) helps maintaining balance while changing configuration. 
 

btw I saw the pictures of the certification on your fcbk page, release looks pretty close to me…
 

How do you see the production and the materials supply? Given how unstable is everything at the moment..

Very interesting topic indeed this balancing thing with the az100. 
 

for me it’s the biggest issue with that almost perfect mount. 
 

i also am having troubles finding the correct balance when changing ep or adding a Gpc on my bv. 
 

that alt lock doesn’t really lock anything, it’s acting more like a brake than a actual lock. I have to  crank it down together with the alt adj. to keep the scope steady and sometimes it’s not enough…

Balancing is done with a bino with pano 24 on a tsa120 

On 09/06/2022 at 02:58, swsantos said:

I bought the TPOD130 for my Nova Hitch originally and wanted the 130 for it instead of the 110 because of its extra height. The 110 might be enough for the AZ100 and I might have bought that instead if I was buying a new tripod for the AZ100, but I would rather use a taller tripod without its legs extended instead of a shorter tripod with its legs extended so I am happy with the AZ100 on the TPOD130. When I am observing at least one, sometimes two of the legs are not extended at all and I like it that way.

 

Regarding the question about the threads, are you asking me what the mount's feet threads are? If so they are M10. I didn't like the movable rubber pad feet it came with so bought aftermarket ones designed for another tripod that are more like the Berlebach one I had before. They are the non moving solid rubber pointed type. Let me know if that's the thread info you are looking for. 

 

Steve

Hey Steve. Thanks for Feedback it was exactly what I was asking for 👍

indeed you’re right about the height of the tripod and using or not the full legs length. I tend to think exactly the same. 

I’ll have to take some  measurements on my uni 18 to see what is the actual  height. 
 

did you use an eq6 mount adaptor for the Rowan? As I don’t think Avalon makes a specific Rowan one. 

On 07/06/2022 at 16:59, swsantos said:

Avalon TPOD 130 here and it works great with the AZ100. I had a riser made for it by ADM so that my refractor won't hit the top of the tripod and I also had a shorter panhandle made for me by Rowan for the same reason.

I had a Berlebach in the past, a Uni 18 or 24 single leg lock version, but I like the Avalon much better I prefer the more solid non-creakyness of metal, I like the double leg locks that lock down on metal, and I feel its easier to carry. I never wanted to undertake the installation of a second set of leg locks on the Berlebach and was never comfortable about tightening them against wood anyway although that's probably just irrational paranoia on my part.

Thanks for your input santos. The 110 was not high enough?

I’m wondering , It looks like the rubber feet are screwed to the tripod. What’s the thread?
 

thanks 

Hi. Everyone has a berlebach with the az100 , I also do, but what about an Avalon tpod ?

looks wonderful and it’s very light compared to the German one. Apparently it’s as rigid and sturdy. 
 

who has tried one with the Rowan ?

Ok that’s what I hoped for. Thx a lot for your feedback. 
 

i think until you get a really nasty mushroom or tons of dust spots you don’t need a proper cleaning service. 

Hello

i just received a beautiful tsa 120 used. It’s in mint condition, 1 year of use and the images it gives are stunning. 
 

But while I was retracting the dew shield  I noticed some dust particles inside the tube just behind the first lens on the 2nd lens. 
 

they are very small and I can see only a few of them but I’m wondering how did they get here and above all how can I get rid of them? Is there a safe way to do this without sending it to a professional?

just to be clear it has no effect on my observations (don’t know yet about AP) as they’re only particles and outnumbered but I’m just asking for aesthetic and in case I get more in the future and they do interfere with my viewings . 
 

thanks

ok, after a little research, i think i found the problem with the over-correction of my flats: i don't treat them at all, meaning that i don't substract the offset, neither from the flat or the lights.

I need to get the offset out in order for the vignetting to be corrected. Will try this and come back with the results.

 you were spot on ollypenrice regarding my flats treatment 😉 thank you

Camera is a fuji xt20, no step down ring, and a filter is installed on the last photo (not on the 1st)

no marks for what i know

thanks

Thanks both for your feedback.

Yes jerry i mean the variation in light throughout the circle. My t-shirt was stretched uniformly and tight. I got the same pattern the day before using the same combination. If i integrate the master flat in my images, i can see the variation in light across the final image and the vignetting is not gone, it's accentuated with brighter corners.

carastro, My histo looks like is ok. If you separate it into 5 parts, i would be at the start of the 4th part. No obstruction in the sky, no clouds..

i tried another technique with the white iluminated screen of an ipad on my lens. This time i took them right after my astro session, so every setting exactly the same. It's better but i still see this cloudy pattern, and the integration of the master flat in my stack is a disaster with a reverse vignetting effect.

Maybe i'm missing something in siril. But i'm following step by step every tutorials around.

Hello,

i'm starting to get my hands on some AP and i'm enjoying it so far. But until now i've been using only lights with no DOF. You all know that the samy 135mm has a lot of vignetting, so i figured: let's take some flats to correct that.

Problem is my flats are not very clean. See below an example, taken at 100ISO F2.8 and histo at 2/3. The square pattern is due to my xtrans sensor, it goes away after process in siril. My concern is that smokey-cloudy pattern at the center, any idea of what that could be?

I took the flats a couple of days after my astro session with the white t-shirt technique pointing at the sky.

thanks

On 07/03/2022 at 15:54, lifeonmars said:

I  think your alt problem is play between worm and wheel,it just needs adjusting out as per instructions supplied with mount.I have the same problem developing but will adjust it out shortly

The stuttering  is due to imbalance but can be damped out with the damping knobs,if I remember correctly the instructions  don't explain the function of the damping knobs but I worked it out by trail and error.

Its a great mount and I really enjoy using it  especially with nexus dsc it works really well.

Hope this helps

Ce

Thanks for your reply. Well I really have the impression that the problem is within the flexible because when I change it and put the small one, problem is gone or at least much less noticeable. using the black wheel there is no « loose movement » on the alt axis. 

regarding stuttering I can solve this with the damping knobs, as you said, but then I get this dead zone on the wheel movement. wondering if it’s normal on alt az mounts with micro adj as my skytee 2 does have the same issue, even if much more noticeable . Thought the az100 would have been free of that kind of issue. 

I think I can answer my own question: found Sirui AM 254 or 284. Beautiful piece of equipment. 

the riser looks nice and could be a nice addition indeed. Hope price will be friendly 😉

do you have any issues with the slo mo cables? and the slo mo in general?
 

- alt axis doesn’t stay in place when turned using the flexible. it keeps moving the axis a few degrees when I let it go.  seems like the flexible is maybe too « flexible » or not enough. Using the shorter az flexible works much better even if I have some issues as well.