Speedmaster

Oh that’s quite a thing. Lucky it was new, mine is used so can’t do anything. but the device does work great, it’s just that I can’t use the dc outputs. So either I buy a brand new plus or I buy a 12v dc splitter cable. thanks for your input.

I just tested the outputs and I get 0V on the 4 outputs. Seems like they got burned somehow…

Thanks for your reply. Only the camera is connected. don’t have any other 12v gear no, only zwo cables. But I tried the 3 dC cables that came with the aap. as soon as I use another power supply into the cam’s body it lightens up and it’s recognized by the app. Can’t seem to make this 4 outputs from the aap work. Plus, there is no info at all regarding voltage or power consumption in the app as it should be. Maybe I can test for power with a voltmeter.

Hi There. Very happy owner of a brand new 2600mc pro, I can’t get it to work with my aap. ASIAIR is powered through a lifepo4 external battery, and the camera through the external aap’s dc output. My problem is that there is no power through those outputs. I did put the 4 of them “on” on the app but nothing. And the camera is not even recognized in the app. the voltage info (the ins and outs) says n/a… output from the battery is 12V@8A max so plenty of power. thanks for your input.

That’s a very nice set up. What’s the battery sir? Looks tiny for a 12v.

30s That’s pretty good though. More than enough I think Is guiding possible with an altaz ?

Any try outs with cameras ? Not crazy long exposures but just to see if the mount can track enough for simple ap.

I’ve read here and there that this mount is not suitable if you don’t guide, is that true? i don’t guide and don’t intend to for now so I was wondering if that moiint would be a good choice.

Small question regarding the EP weight. Is it not supposed to solve the Bino balance issue right? how does it work? Because of you balance your scope with it installed, as soon as you take off the EP the scope will go loose.

Just saw it on fcbk and on their website. A bit overpriced for me, was expecting 800-900 max but given the current worldwide sh** show I presume it is acceptable. dont see the manual online. I hope it will be available so we can have a small taste of what’s the motor system is capable of,how it is working with nexus…etc

Hi. to the lucky testers, did you try some imaging ? how long should we be hoping for exposure time? I’ve read a long time ago that 30-35s should to do it. thx

Beautiful !! Just as I was starting to figure something out for mine. balancing is really critical on that mount, and I would say it’s a weak point. That and the lack of locking on the alt axis. Break is pretty strong but still only a break. But As someone said earlier, placing the instrument vertically (at zenith) helps maintaining balance while changing configuration. btw I saw the pictures of the certification on your fcbk page, release looks pretty close to me… How do you see the production and the materials supply? Given how unstable is everything at the moment..

Very interesting topic indeed this balancing thing with the az100. for me it’s the biggest issue with that almost perfect mount. i also am having troubles finding the correct balance when changing ep or adding a Gpc on my bv. that alt lock doesn’t really lock anything, it’s acting more like a brake than a actual lock. I have to crank it down together with the alt adj. to keep the scope steady and sometimes it’s not enough… Balancing is done with a bino with pano 24 on a tsa120

Hey Steve. Thanks for Feedback it was exactly what I was asking for 👍 indeed you’re right about the height of the tripod and using or not the full legs length. I tend to think exactly the same. I’ll have to take some measurements on my uni 18 to see what is the actual height. did you use an eq6 mount adaptor for the Rowan? As I don’t think Avalon makes a specific Rowan one.

Thanks for your input santos. The 110 was not high enough? I’m wondering , It looks like the rubber feet are screwed to the tripod. What’s the thread? thanks

Hi. Everyone has a berlebach with the az100 , I also do, but what about an Avalon tpod ? looks wonderful and it’s very light compared to the German one. Apparently it’s as rigid and sturdy. who has tried one with the Rowan ?

Ok that’s what I hoped for. Thx a lot for your feedback. i think until you get a really nasty mushroom or tons of dust spots you don’t need a proper cleaning service.

Hello i just received a beautiful tsa 120 used. It’s in mint condition, 1 year of use and the images it gives are stunning. But while I was retracting the dew shield I noticed some dust particles inside the tube just behind the first lens on the 2nd lens. they are very small and I can see only a few of them but I’m wondering how did they get here and above all how can I get rid of them? Is there a safe way to do this without sending it to a professional? just to be clear it has no effect on my observations (don’t know yet about AP) as they’re only particles and outnumbered but I’m just asking for aesthetic and in case I get more in the future and they do interfere with my viewings . thanks

ok, after a little research, i think i found the problem with the over-correction of my flats: i don't treat them at all, meaning that i don't substract the offset, neither from the flat or the lights. I need to get the offset out in order for the vignetting to be corrected. Will try this and come back with the results. you were spot on ollypenrice regarding my flats treatment 😉 thank you

Camera is a fuji xt20, no step down ring, and a filter is installed on the last photo (not on the 1st) no marks for what i know thanks

Thanks both for your feedback. Yes jerry i mean the variation in light throughout the circle. My t-shirt was stretched uniformly and tight. I got the same pattern the day before using the same combination. If i integrate the master flat in my images, i can see the variation in light across the final image and the vignetting is not gone, it's accentuated with brighter corners. carastro, My histo looks like is ok. If you separate it into 5 parts, i would be at the start of the 4th part. No obstruction in the sky, no clouds.. i tried another technique with the white iluminated screen of an ipad on my lens. This time i took them right after my astro session, so every setting exactly the same. It's better but i still see this cloudy pattern, and the integration of the master flat in my stack is a disaster with a reverse vignetting effect. Maybe i'm missing something in siril. But i'm following step by step every tutorials around.

Hello, i'm starting to get my hands on some AP and i'm enjoying it so far. But until now i've been using only lights with no DOF. You all know that the samy 135mm has a lot of vignetting, so i figured: let's take some flats to correct that. Problem is my flats are not very clean. See below an example, taken at 100ISO F2.8 and histo at 2/3. The square pattern is due to my xtrans sensor, it goes away after process in siril. My concern is that smokey-cloudy pattern at the center, any idea of what that could be? I took the flats a couple of days after my astro session with the white t-shirt technique pointing at the sky. thanks

Thanks for your reply. Well I really have the impression that the problem is within the flexible because when I change it and put the small one, problem is gone or at least much less noticeable. using the black wheel there is no « loose movement » on the alt axis. regarding stuttering I can solve this with the damping knobs, as you said, but then I get this dead zone on the wheel movement. wondering if it’s normal on alt az mounts with micro adj as my skytee 2 does have the same issue, even if much more noticeable . Thought the az100 would have been free of that kind of issue.

I think I can answer my own question: found Sirui AM 254 or 284. Beautiful piece of equipment.

the riser looks nice and could be a nice addition indeed. Hope price will be friendly 😉 do you have any issues with the slo mo cables? and the slo mo in general? - alt axis doesn’t stay in place when turned using the flexible. it keeps moving the axis a few degrees when I let it go. seems like the flexible is maybe too « flexible » or not enough. Using the shorter az flexible works much better even if I have some issues as well. - I have some stuttering on both axis sometimes when the adjusters are set to the 0 position (almost tight). When I fully tight both, the stutter is gone but I get a small dead zone where I turn the slo mo wheel but I get no movement. Could it be balancing issue? thx