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Everything posted by Trident

  1. just to support what John is saying, i have done this. i bought a 300p auto and then a 1145p AZ goto (second hand) and swapped the handsets after upgrading the firmware to 3.07. currently find it nice having a small scope and the bigger dob as i`ve ended up setting up both scopes small tracking the moon (bright stuff) and the bigger looking at deep sky etc
  2. hi there i have a 300p flex auto with the goto handset, works well and can be connected to a PC (although i haven`t tried as yet). i would say that the goto isnt as accurate as a EQ mount but the dob is very easy to live with setup is very quick and mines on wheels which makes things easy on the arms. you do have to colminate every time but i still get ok results when i havent bothered. if your in to the getting in to the deep sky stuff i would suggest getting a samsung sdc-435, allows you to see the fuzzy stuff in colour live and M42 looks really good. the camera increases what you can see generally without getting a huge scope. would also suggest looking at the 250px auto and getting a 1145p goto and using the handset. have a look at this thread http://stargazerslounge.com/equipment-help/128557-skyliner-250-flextube-auto-goto-how.html hate suggest spending more money but you dont want to buy something that you then want to replace later, which was my dilema. i bought the 300p but the 250px seems a little cheaper. hope this helps and doesnt confuse the issues
  3. I have now bought the SCB-2000 being the rebadged 435. I`m using it on a skywatcher 300p Dob and have a 0.5 reducer on the front. I bought a 17" lcd tv second hand for the back garden and powering everything from a power unit with two 12vdc outs and a built in 240vac inverter (from Makro) I had quite a few problems achieving focus using the reducer as I cant get the focusser to move in enough, so in the end i`ve removed the reducer. I spent a bit of time on the moon the other night to get used to various setting etc and then moved on to other object again which has helped, although im at a mag of about 250 with out the reducer so its sometimes hard to find objects. would recommend just having a look at the moon for a bit to get used to things intially, the moon however need a very short exposure. I think the way to setup is start with a short exposure to set focus on surrounding stars and then increase to 250 ish for the DSO, which as you say builds up slowly. Hoping to get out tonight and finally capture a pic of saturn. Is there a user group for this camera, not sure where to look?
  4. Many thanks for the reply, will have a play with the EP eye cup position theres also a few nasty chrome screws in my scope so will try and cover them up. Does anyone out there no where to get flocking material (in the uk) please?
  5. Hi Will I have a auto Dob that i`ve used the handset from a Goto 1145P on and it works fine. It looks like things can be exchanged as long as the hand set it AZ based, i end up upgrading the firmware off the skywatcher site aswell.
  6. After buying a 4mm TMB and a 12mm ED explorer I have found i seem to have a bright object flittering around in my scope. Was looking at saturn at the time at around 250-375 mag, using a 300P skyliner flextube. wondering if this is a internal light reflection issue or a eyepiece issue? any suggestions? (by the way the EP`s are great compare to the standard Skywatcher ones!)
  7. just found this might be of use, especially the star check looks really good stuff Astro Babys Guide to Collimation
  8. Hi John, as you`ve bought a power tank not sure this helps but... my skywatcher has a 2.5mm supply plug being tip +ve, which i think is a common connector for scopes (if not dont read on, sorry). i went to makro and looked at their 12vdc power tanks (car jump start units) and got a unit for £29 ish which has a 2.5mm to cigar socket lead to allow you to charge from a car outlet, but you can also plug it in to the 12vdc outlet on the power tank to power a scope. There is also a 240vac to 2.5mm charger that is enough to power my dob via the mains. (in the end i bought another unit from makro that has two 12vdc outlets and also a 240vac outlet via a inverter, being useful for PC`s etc) thought you could take the maplin one back and get something from Makro, might be cheaper?
  9. Hi Space cowboy, you almost certainly know this already but... i have to finish aligning on a target using the up and right direction controls, to get tracking to work. on my scope there a lot of play between the up and down drive so if i finished on the down, the gears have to use up the slack before tracking the object. i take it the scope will drive manually up in slow speeds using both hand controls? and you have used a good power supply? not sure if you can do this while tracking, but the goto handset lets you see the encoder positions under "show position", you could look at this during tracking to see if it thinks things are moving. If this can`t be done in tracking, you can move the scope in this mode and change the slew rate, so could confirm that the scope moves at all rates of slewing. (Did also think you could change your backlash and scope limits, but you`ve used the auto handset aswell) not much science in it but a quick thing to do would be unplug the az motor cable from the alt unit, inspect connections at both ends and replace. only thought being that power is being dropped over this drive through a high resistance joint etc and therefore lowering voltage over the alt drive. like i say not much science but its quick. bit new to all this so sorry if you`ve done things already.
  10. I have been planning to do the contrast improvements, but with the scope being new didn`t want to void any guarantee on the OTA. have seen this thread, http://stargazerslounge.com/equipment-discussion/99482-improving-flextube-contrast.html do you just use matt black paint on the screws and secondary? Will try to take some photos and stick them on here but the set up is all fairly standard with the astrozap shroud and wheels on the base (the wheels are great makes using the scope alot more usable)
  11. could it be dew? Had another look in the scope last night and couldn`t see anything on the primary, when in a warm area. planning to have a look at the primary when theres a chance for dew to build up. wondering if theres some sort of residue present that dews up quickly in some area, being the smeer i`d seen before. thinking of this terms of swimming goggles misting up, wash them out with "fairy" and then no more misting. did have a look for dew on the night of comparison and couldn`t see anything using a red head torch down the scope. Hoping that its just a dew issue and i`ll do another compare when skies are good. I thought that Newtonians didnt really suffer from dew?
  12. Its new, as in less than a month old. when i built it up the primary had a bluish smeery look, this was the very first peek at the mirror after taking off the dust cover. I thought that it might be something from when the scope was packed as in a cleaning agent that once the scope was open to atmosphere it would evaporate. having thought about this further im wrong as the mirror isnt sealed its open around its mounting. i had in my head that this would be a seal space until the dust cap was removed as its quite a good fit and then the scope packaging would seal everything else up. Hence needing to evaporate intially. so in review i think we`re saying the scope mirror should be ultra clean and be alot brighter than a 4.5" ?
  13. When doing the comparison i put a 25 in the 12" being, 1500/25=60 mag then in the 4.5 put a 10mm, 500/10=50 i could only see a bit more detail in the gas clouds Im must admit i am a bit worried something is wrong, but the mirrors look clean and have aligned using the laser, and then defocussing a star in the middle of the EP gives a fairly even field (no comet trails) There was a slight wash effect on the primary when i first built the scope up, however thought it was a cleaning agents that would evaporate. cant see this now in daylight but i was concerned at the time not sure what else to do ?
  14. Thanks John, i think i`ll have a try at M51 next time the skies are clear, will do a compare using the 4.5" and 12". was also looking to try the bigger nebula e.g M42, M31, M8 Any big nebula recommendations?
  15. skies are fairly dark where i am as we`re not near any large town etc. Im thinking that i should see a massive difference between a 4.5" to my 12" on something like M42, currently is not worked out that way any pointers?
  16. will i be able to see any detail on the messier objects? eg spiral arms etc have looked at M1 and was only a grey smudge should have said i have the astro zap shroud for the tube extension area.
  17. What should I see with my skyliner flextube? Recently bought a 300p flextube auto and wondering what I should expect to see? I`m using the EP`s the scope comes with being the 25 and 10 supers and also have a economy Barlow (planning to upgrade in time). Currently using a laser collimator to align the mirrors before use and then doing an out of focus check to confirm correct on a star. I have been using the scope to view M42 and the image wasn’t quite as bright as I expected, (compared to my 1145P with both scopes at same mag). Have then tried M82 and could see a fuzzy grey spot but no spirals etc. Looking at Saturn the image was bright and sharp but no details on rings or shadows etc, was using the 10mm and Barlow. Wondering what other people see with the 250px and 300p? also has anyone done the flocking the secondary and does it improve things for deep sky and planets? Many thanks
  18. looks like FLO do them but need to give them a shout for price, as a SGL member you get 5% off but need to email them before placing the order. Tal - Tal 2x and 3x Barlows this is the same barlow http://www.365astronomy.com/skywatcher-x2-“tal”-achromatic-barlow-lens-125”317mm-p-2442.html?zenid=3a622fcc4d7028a776de2d0e315a2c7a by the way if your looking at images ("I want to get some pics of planets and trying to work out the best way to do it), i`d look at a philips webcam for planets or a SDC-435 (SBC-2000 is the new badge model) for deep sky. Loads of free software to make it work.
  19. Just thought i would let people know that i can also confirm this mod works! Have bought the 300p auto and used the controller from a 1145p. So i now have a easy little scope that tracks and a goto Dob (Have to say i enquired lots about the upgrade in the new goto Dob and it appeared the motors are upgraded to cope with the efforts of Goto, but i tend to push mine to a close position and then finish with goto) Have also done the mod for fitting wheels and it has made loads of difference and the scope is really nice to use now. I have updated the firware in the handset (chose to use 3.07) and all options are in the handset including backlash and can`t see why it wont work. Thanks everyone who added to this thread
  20. Hi 12inchDob I have very recently got a skywatcher 300p flextube that i`m getting used to. the other night i took my first look at saturn with the 2x economy barlow from skywatcher and the 10mm super plossl that the scope came with. this works out at 300x being 1500/5. the combination is comfortable to use compared to smaller plossl EP and very cheap to buy, 10mm i have seen for £18 and barlow is £12. The Image was very bright indeed with clearly defined seperation of the rings to the planet and resonably large (wife said "it looks like you`ve stuck a photo on the end of the scope ". Overall the image was sharp bright and large however.. there wasn`t much detail on the rings themselves or the planet, everything was so bright it seem detail was washed out (almost over exposed). I`m not sure if this is really down to EP`s setup, scope or what? I`m currently thinking of a 4 or 5mm TMB EP at around £45 ish as i think they will increase contrast. In my opinion you would do well to get a barlow to go along with any other EP`s you get. Small Plossl EP`s i have read as being a "miserable experience" to use, i think due to the minimum dia in the EP. From what i understand the eco barlow i have isn`t great however the TAL one skywatcher do is supposed to be good VFM at £30ish hopes this helps By the way interesting photos, it looks like the flocking material has all come off? was thinking of adding some to my secondary as it apparently makes loads of improvement for planetary views improving contrast.
  21. Thanks for the help here, i think it was initial "bedding in" issues. Gave the scope a few rotations manually being 3 in one direction and 3 in other and then tried the motors again. all now seems well just need some clear skies
  22. i`m a bit concerned as this is the first run after building it up.. Brantuk, does yours actually stop or does it just slow? mine has stopped and then needs "assisting"
  23. ahh, i was hoping it shouldn`t be i did a trial run following building my scope and the drive stalled in azimuth in a couple of areas. I hoped it was just this material needed removal. sounds like the clutch is slipping.
  24. just read a bit of your thread, its exactly what i need!
  25. Excellent! Many thanks for the speedy reply, will read the thread.
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