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Everything posted by Dellis

  1. Try here. I bought a couple then had a friend turn a couple of steel weights. They work a treat. Dave
  2. I think that's what I'll do. Thanks all for the advice. Dave
  3. You need a leisure battery - £50 gets you 88 ah Dave
  4. I like the idea of the Sky Atlas field version and I already have a copy of the Cambridge Star Atlas. Thanks folks
  5. As the title says I'm looking for a star atlas that I don't have to worry about being ruined by damp, I currently use a set of laminated Telrad marked charts for the Messier objects but I'd like something with a bit more detail. I have atlases, my favourite being Sky Atlas 2000.0 desk version, but none I could happily leave to get wet. So what would you suggest I go for? Thanks Dave
  6. Not an eyepiece but scope, 'upgraded' my C8 to a C11 (CPC variety) and was less than impressed. Having said that the C8 was exceptional and I'm guessing the C11 less so. Dave
  7. You'll both have many hours of enjoyment with that. Dave
  8. I really enjoy finding objects for the first time either with my scope or bins and generally once you've done it once the next time is easy. Dave
  9. That would be my plan of attack too Dave
  10. I have a 12" dob and a 32mm Panaview which I'm very happy with. I doesn't give perfect views to the edge but for me that isn't the end of the world and I liked the 32mm so much that I bought a 38mm which I use a secondary finder after getting thereabouts with the Telrad and I also have a 26mm. All three are excellent value for money and coupled with the dob have given me a great deal of pleasure. Dave Edit: my dob is F5
  11. This is a quote from David Lukehurst's website: "From the moment a newly aluminised mirror is unwrapped, it will inevitably start to accumulate a fine layer of dust. Although this dust detracts from the pristine appearance of the mirror it will have little effect on performance unless the mirror becomes very dirty. The main effect of the dust is to cause a slight loss of image contrast due to the light scattering effect of any dust or grime. It will also slightly reduce the reflectivity of the surface. It is best to take every reasonable effort to stop the mirror from getting dirty in the first place by keeping it properly covered when not in use and storing the telescope in a clean environment. A clean Chamois leather can be used to cover the main mirror of a Newtonian. It should be kept warm whilst the telescope is in use and then replaced over the mirror when it is put away. Based on experience, this will protect the mirror and will not harm the aluminium coating even if it is directly in contact with it, so long as it is dry. It is also advisable to avoid taking a cold telescope into a warm room as this is likely to result in condensation forming on the mirrors. If the telescope can be stored somewhere that is at outside temperature, it will also mean that when the telescope is taken outside to be used, it does not have to cool down before it will give steady images. Dust can be carefully flicked off with a clean lens brush or blown off with a clean air duster. Care should be exercised when using aerosol duster as they can blow out liquid propellant which will mark the surface (although this will not cause any permanent damage). Aluminised mirrors should never be rubbed with anything in an effort to clean off grime. This will inevitably scratch the coating. This sort of scratching, consisting of many fine parallel scratches, acts like a diffraction grating and will give rise to clearly perceptible bands of light radiating from stellar images. If the mirror has become very dirty, a careful washing may be desirable. However, a new aluminium coating remains quite soft for some months and any cleaning should be avoided at this time. Over time, a very thin, hard, transparent layer of aluminium oxide forms and this protects the underlying metallic aluminium. The mirror can be carefully immersed in lukewarm slightly soapy water and allowed to soak for a few minutes. It can then be wiped under the surface of the water very carefully with cotton wool. It should then be carefully rinsed with lukewarm water followed by a final rinse with lukewarm distilled water. It should not be rinsed with cold water as, in an extreme case, it could crack due to thermal shock. It should then be stood on edge and any drops of water remaining on the aluminised surface should be picked off with the corner of a piece of tissue. If done carefully, this cleaning process will clean the mirror very effectively and without harming the coating."
  12. I've not been out for over a month. The weather has been so poor and on the rare clear night I've had other commitments, then there's the full moon! I had great plans for saturday then the clouds rolled in...... Dave
  13. I really like the look of this. It will be good to see how it develops. Dave
  14. If the banks are suggesting caution I'd be tempted to go elsewhere, there are plenty of decent dealers about without having to take chances with your hard earned.... Dave
  15. I check mine every time I use it and adjust as and when it's out which isn't that often unless I take it apart to transport it then I have to collimate but it takes a couple of minutes at the most, that's on a 12" Lightbridge. Dave
  16. I've had the Lightbridge for several months now and am happy that a dob is the scope for me ultimately I'm aiming for a custom made example but for now I'm happy with the Lightbridge with a few small mods and accessories, none of them are ground breaking or unique but I thought I'd catalogue the changes so far. So here goes and starting with collimation I added a set of Bob's Knobs secondary collimation thumbscrews to eliminate the risk of dropping something on the primary, they are inexpensive and make collimating the secondary a breeze. Second part of the collimation improvements were to the primary springs which I've replaced with a set from Bob's Knobs which are considerably stronger than the originals and have meant that collimation holds for much longer. Next on the list was a light shroud and I went for the Astro Engineering semi rigid version the reasons being two fold firstly to cut down on stray light and secondly as some additional protection for the primary. Next on the list was an upgrade in the finder department and I really went for it here and have added both a Telrad and a 10 x 50 straight through finder, the Telrad gets me pretty much there and to be honest the optical finder is a largely unnecessary. All this lot has added a bit of weight and sent the scope way out of balance so a set of counterweights have been added, nothing spectacular just four car roof magnets fitted with weights turned from mild steel and lacquered to prevent them going rusty, they work a treat and are easily moved to achieve good balance. The last thing was to add a Wixey and an altazimuth circle to the base, initially I marked the circle by hand but once I proved to myself that it worked has a vinyl degree circle made up. I like hunting for objects but now if I'm struggling to find my target and can fall back onto Stellarium and 'push to' whatever it is I'm looking for. With a few simple changes the scope is much easier to use and I'm sure will give me many happy observing hours before I can afford my custom made dob. Dave Setting Circle My Scope
  17. Through the ep M31 would be to the right and M110 to the left, this would the view around 10pm when you made your initial post. Dave
  18. Just entered your scope and ep details into Stellarium and you could fit M31 and M110 in the fov but M31 would need to be off centre. Dave
  19. If you download the 'Oculars' plugin you can enter your scope and ep details and see a representative view. You can fine this in Stellarium by going to Configuration window - plugins - oculars. Also the image isn't mirrored as a Newtonian has an even number of mirrors so the image is correct but rotated. Dave
  20. I started out with the same scope, was totally hooked after the very first time and that was observing Jupiter. I later discovered that I had been lucky and seeing was particularly good on that evening. Stick at it there are some wonderful sights to see. Dave
  21. I've owned a CPC1100 and currently own a 12" Dob, a Lightbridge. I'll give you a potted history of how I got to the Dob., I had the CPC1100 but wanted a wider fov so bought myself a 4" refractor on a manual eq5 mount to compliment the CPC. However I enjoyed finding objects myself much more than using GoTo on the CPC so stopped using the CPC and sold it I then found I was missing the light grab of the C11 so bought the Dob and I haven't looked back since. The Dob has almost twice the fov when compared to the C11 and is so much more rewarding to use, I guess it's the thrill of the chase So you won't be surprised that my vote is for the Dob and I can't see myself replacing mine with anything other than a bigger Dob. I have a large setting circle on the base of mine and a Wixey so if the hunt proves too much I can resort to push to Go on get yourself a Dob Dave
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