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About philwright66

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  1. handheld is all about a very fast shutter speed, imho. maybe underexpose a bit since the brightness can always be increased in ps elements or whatever. i shot the moon a few days ago @ 1000mm f10 with my sony a7r + tak fc100 handheld @ 1/1500 sec with no camera-shake issues. i actually feel it is a total myth that a tripod is a must to image the moon with a dslr. cheers,phil
  2. cheers Axel. i have had years of practice, first with a William Optics Megrez 72,then an Skywatcher ED80,then Celestron 5,Stellarvue SVR90 ,and now the Takahashi FC100D . Anyone who owns a lightweight apo and dslr is missing out if they haven't tried the handheld telephoto method imho. Most 'scopes will probably require an extension tube to reach prime focus however. The setup is ideal for aviation photography or stationary bird photography - and perfect for full-disc lunar photography.It's all about a fast shutter speed, and fully manual exposure control.
  3. hi Ash, yep handheld. a very fast shutter speed does the trick ,with a moderate iso setting. the original image was a bit dim tbh,so i have boosted the brightness in ps elements.try it with your ed 80 if you have a dslr - you will be surprised that it is quite easy to point at bright targets for long enough to fire off a few frames! the focus can be hard to nail down, but with the lcd on the camera it is easy enough to keep tweeking the focuser until the lcd image is sharp zoomed in. my sony a7r has focus peaking,so objects in-focus take on a red glow in the electronic wysiwyg viewfinder.,and
  4. cheers Richard. i have been using apo refractors as telephoto lenses for about 6 years. lightness is absolutely the no 1 requirement,and with my new Takahashi only weighing 2.8 kg it is quite easy to hold. used 1/1600 sec @ iso 400 so managed to freeze any camera-shake. i feel that apo refractors would beat any exotic camera lens for sharpness,and £££s
  5. imaged with my new Tak + Kenko 1.4x teleconverter ,attached to a Sony a7r 36 megapixel camera. total focal length around 1000mm f10 .Handheld ,with focus peaking employed to focus fairly well. thanks for looking,phil
  6. i bought a £20 'prinzflex' 135 f3.5 for my sony a65 2 years ago ,and fortunately it reaches infinity with the m42 adapter. Earlier this year ,when i heard that comet PANSTARRS and ISON were on their way, i bought a Minolta af 135 f2.8 for around £200 on ebay. Anyways, i didn't bother with the cheap prinzflex when shooting a few images of PANSTARRS - instead "knowing" that the Minolta would be far superior. A week or two after ,i was comparing daytime images of airliners taken from my garden just to see which lens was better.Answer : the £20 prinzflex was absolutely tack-sharp with almost zero
  7. Hi again Neil, The recollimation taking account of image shift is an interesting idea which i will try once i get a laser collimater.i have actually bought both the colour and mono versons of the ZWO ASI120 which i bought around december in anticipation of the great optics i am 'collecting' ! here is one of my VX10L first light Jupiter images,taken using an ASI120MC. Thanks again,Phil
  8. hi Dunkster, yes i know what you are saying. I am thinking along the lines of buying something where i don't get the 'what if i bought that instead' feeling. I guess i could save almost 1k if i bought the standard C9.25, but i have read so many reports of 'apo-like' performance from the EDGE HD versions that i would regret buying the non-HD version. I know that in the centre of the field the 2 types would be virtually identical if both are of similar quality,but for all-round observing especially low power views the new model would be much better.I used to have a wonderful WO flt110 apo so i k
  9. my vx10 is actually very sharp with easily collimatable optics. the certified strehl is .996 with 1/10pv which cost me £200 extra so it should be good! the stars both sides of focus seem pretty identical to me with a quick look so i guess things are as stated.the one thing i do not like is the stock focuser. it has huge image shift which makes focusing a planet at long focal lengths very difficult. later this year i may upgrade the focuser to a baader steeltrack or a feather-touch. cheers,phil
  10. Hi again Neil, Truly interesting ideas and advice. I will let you know how things turn out when i buy the 9.25. Maybe the neq6 in a few months for the autumn/winter nights. Thanks again,phil
  11. Hi Neil, thanks for your advice. I bought the VX10L f6.3 in january. I do find it hard to handle. Imaging Jupiter with it the first time, the focuser was 8 feet in the air which was a bit difficult. Maybe i should get a better mount instead, and try to maximise usage of the 10" ? I have been looking at the NEQ6 AZ which would be ideal for the newt mounted in alt-az mode. I will be selling the 180 mak in any event. I would regard the 9.25 as more of a quick grab scope,and that is what is in my mind. the 10" is more of a big setting up ,cooling down instrument, which is fine when the sky is st
  12. Cheers, i should have it next week sometime. Just getting the funds together now. I'm thinking that i may buy it from Telescope Service in Germany since it is £600 less than the uk rrp at the gbp/euro current exchange rates.Even from the USA it would work out a lot less than the UK distributer's(David Hinds) rrp. Not sure about warranty issues though.May or may not be worth the risk! Thanks again,Phil
  13. Having used my SW 180 mak for 3 years now,i have decided to go for one of the best planetary imaging scopes available. i have researched the normal C9.25 as well as the EDGE HD version and decided to go with the latest design due to all the positive reviews. I have a CG5 non-goto which should cope with the weight reasonably well,since it will mainly be used for high-res planetary imaging which doesn't really cause the mount to struggle too much. I also have a C6 grab and go super-sharp sct which is great for quick sessions between clouds,as well as a huge cumbersome Orion Optics VX10L which my
  14. thanks shaun. used the native 1500mm focal length with no barlow. quite a wide angle view in fact. i think the seeing at the time was extremely good,and i managed to get the focus spot-on as well. i'm still experimenting with my 3 month old asi120mm planet cam,in terms of gain/exposure settings,as well as resolution/framerate settings. next time the moon phase is favourable i will have a go at imaging the same area with my 2x televue barlow to see how it fares. cheers,phil
  15. hi james.thanks for the kind words! yep the darker square was caused by the surface image stabilisation anchor in AS!2.tried but failed to get rid of it! cheers,phil
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