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Daz Type-R

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Everything posted by Daz Type-R

  1. Hi and welcome to SGL, good to have you on board.
  2. Hello and welcome to SGL.
  3. Hello and welcome to SGL. Never too late to start something.
  4. I`m assuming being on a dob mount your purley visual, if so, ep's dont weigh as much as ccd (well unless you chuck a 21mm Ethos or a WO UWAN on your focuser) so dont worry, it will last you years.
  5. Hi, I went Moonlite on my 200P, absolutely love it!!! I`m only visual so though so dont have to worry too much about weight, although the Moonlite can be adjusted to suit different weights but I see perfrej's point, it may be an issue dependant on the weight of the ccd.
  6. Hello and welcome to SGL.
  7. I have the variable polarizing moon filter. I opted for that so I could adjust the brightness for the different phases of the moon. The down side is you have to keep taking your ep in and out and fiddle with the settings but I don't mind doing that if it makes the moon comfortable to view. Hoping to start on the lunar 100 soon.
  8. Hell and welcome to SGL.
  9. Daz Type-R

    Newbie

    Hello and welcome to SGL.
  10. Daz Type-R

    First post

    Hello (or should that be gud day), welcome to SGL, hope you enjoy the forum.
  11. Daz Type-R

    hi from MK

    Hello and welcome to SGL.
  12. Tough call these days with the likes of TeleVue banging out their Ethos range (which I have). I have the TeleVue 13mm Ethos which has a 100 degree field of view, but is only a 1.25" EP, at 13mm the mag is quite high but I can get the double cluster in my FOV and M81and M82 in the same field of view. With it being quite high mag, the background colour is dark which helps bring out some detail. Down side, cost!!!!!! But if you want high mag and wide FOV, TeleVue Ethos range are your best bet, I love mine and will never, ever get rid of it.
  13. Hi and welcome to SGL. I'm afraid £50 is going to get you nothing, not even 2nd hand. Don't be tempted by scopes in Jessops or ToysRus or any other high street outlet, a toilet roll will be better use than them. If you are on that tight a budget then a pair of binoculars is your best bet, you will be able to bag most of the brighter DSO's with them. At the absolute bare minimum, your looking around £130 ish for a scope. In the meantime, I hope you enjoy the forum.
  14. Yeah general rule of thumb for British skies is about 200x max, potential max power is just that, potential, you have to remember that you are not only magnifying the object you are trying to view, you are also magnifying atmospheric distortions, thin high cloud etc etc.... My personnel choice is not to get an ep higher than 6mm, i could get a 3, 4 or 5mm but they will only be used 2-3 times a year when the atmosphere is absolutely perfect. That's just my personnel choice, I'm starting to spend a fair bit on eps and I would actually like to use them, not have them sat in a case.
  15. Hello from a fellow observer, don't have the time, patience or cash for AP.
  16. Hello, welcome to SGL.
  17. Fantastic - well looking forward to it now, many thanks for the update.
  18. Daz Type-R

    SGL 9 - Bookings

    That's why I recently purchased a variable moon filter, I too prefer faint fuzzes and globs, but if you cant beat it, observe it.
  19. Correction..... On this line..... As for the wixey, the setting circle only gives you where an object is in azimuth, i.e, how far left and right something is, to get the dec (height) you need the wixey. I meant to say ALT for the height not DEC - doh!!!
  20. Hi, really happy that you and other people are finding the guides usefull. I find that Sky Watcher and possible other makes of dob based scopes do not put enough design and planning into their build, granted, the 200P is really cheap for what you can see with it, but I do feel that some of the mods are essential to make the scope even useable! To answer your question (and to give you something else to do) when using the setting circle you need your dob base to be very level, to get round this I bought 3 shed levelers from B&Q for £4.99 each and removed the rubber feet on the ground board and replaced them with these, you can just make them out on some of the pictures above. They screw up and down, so if your garden slopes or is uneven, just buy a spirit level and alter the adjustable feet until your dob base is level on all axis. Found a link to them here ....... http://www.diy.com/nav/garden/sheds-storage/wooden-sheds/shed_bases/Shedmate-Adjustable-Shed-Base-System-Black-11027510 As for the wixey, the setting circle only gives you where an object is in azimuth, i.e, how far left and right something is, to get the dec (height) you need the wixey. This wixey needs to be set to zero (level) and your OTA needs to be level, so all I do is get a spirit level on my OTA, once that is level, add the wixey and reset the wixey to zero. Sorted. Like someone mentioned above, you do need a laptop/pda or iphone for example to get the alt/az co-ordinates of any given object but i put a home made red screen over my iphone when viewing to not ruin my dark adaption. The only other downside to this is, you also need to polor align your dob (who ever heard of polor aligning a dob, what is the world coming too???? - lol.) By this, I mean you need to get your base level, you need to get your OTA level to set your wixey to zero, then once you have found Polaris and got that in the centre of your field of view, you need to set your setting circle to zero. Only after doing all this, can you use it to find objects. Hope the above helps, any further questions, fire away.
  21. Just like my lazy susan bearing mod guide I did, I thought I would also knock together a guide for any dob user who wants to fit a setting circle to their dob base, just to aid in finding those faint fuzzes. So first off a list of the things you will need. 1. While not actually part of the setting circle, if you intend to find those faint fuzzes then you need something to give you the ALT co-ordinates, for this you need a Wixey or similar angle gauge, these retail for approx £20 and can be picked up from Amazon, E-Bay etc. Just do a search fir wixey digital angle gauge. 2. This is a list of things you will need for the actual setting circle itself..... A sheet of 3mm Ply wood or MDF. A cable tidy (Approx 2" in diameter) Some black wood paint (I suggest Matt black, as gloss could reflect some shine) and a paint brush Sand paper A drill A drill bit the width of a paper clip A hole cutter (2") A paper clip (red or white) Strong glue A squirty bottle with a fine spray nozzle with some water and a tiny bit of washing up liquid in it The actual setting circle itself which can be purchased from our very own member Mike (Perkil8r) by dropping him a PM. (for non-members reading this his website should be up and running soon, I will insert the web address here when he is ready). Jigsaw or hand saw Credit or debit card (not just to buy everything) Now there are a number of ways in which you can attach the setting circle and it also depends on what other mods you have done (lazy susan bearing for example) and how much time and effort you want to spend. The simple option would be to just stick the setting circle to the ground board and cut a hole in your top board but this means you would have to keep lifting your whole dob base and OTA just to get Polaris in the centre of your FOV and the setting circle to be at zero degrees. I went for the more difficult option but also the option which gave greatest flexibility come set-up time. So the picture below is my ground board with the lazy susan bearing and slide guides all ready attached. Now, I need to fit my movable setting circle around the bearing and the slide guides, so to do this I have had to cut my setting circle with a hole in the middle (for the bearing) and holes just out side this to cater for the slide guides. To cut the hole in the centre I just removed the bearing and drew around it onto the setting circle then cut it out. To cater for the slide guides, I just measured how far they were from the centre hole and then decide how wide the hole needed to be, see picture below... The width of the gap equates to 20 degrees on the setting circle, so come set-up time, I can get Polaris in the centre of the EP, then adjust the setting circle so it reads zero, with out having to keep lifting the dob base and OTA up. Now the setting circle by itself is only thin vinyl so is very weak and flexible, so to give it some strength I am going to stick it to some 3mm ply wood. This wooden base will also have a handle, this is required as when the setting circle is sandwiched between the ground board and the top board, it will be very difficult to turn the setting circle. The wooden base for my setting circle also needs to be the exact shape and size as the vinyl setting circle, so this was simple to achieve as you just place the vinyl setting circle onto the 3mm ply wood and draw round it and cut it out, see picture below (note the extra "lump" on the base, this is the handle, you can make this as large or as small as you like). Next I just sanded it smooth, wiped it down with a damp cloth and then once dried, set about painting it. And the finished look.. While this was drying, I set about measuring how wide the actual degrees were on the setting circle and where the viewing window on my top board would need to be (by "how wide", I mean how wide is the black boarder with numbers on, see below....) I have not provided any measurements in this guide as the size of the ground board, setting circle and top board will all vary depending on the size of your OTA ( a 6" OTA will have a smaller dob base than a 16" OTA). Now my setting circles degrees are 2" wide, hence why I have listed a 2" hole cutter on the list of requirements. Once measured where the setting circle viewing window would need to be, I cut it out. Now you need to stick the vinyl setting circle to the 3mm ply wooden base, to make this a lot easier, I peeled the backing sheet off the setting circle and then using the squirty bottle with water and a small amount of washing up liquid in, I sprayed the back (the side that is sticky) with the soapy water and then placed the vinyl onto the ply wood matching all the spaces etc. Sqirting the soapy water onto the vinyl makes it a lot easier to move into place, without the soapy water, the vinyl would just stick to the wood and you would end up in a mess. The vinyl may have air bubbles in it, so using a credit/debit card, gently push the air bubbles and any creases out. It should now look something like this... and placed on the ground board... Now I advise that you leave this overnight somewhere warm and with a heavy ish weight on it. This will make sure it dries flat. While that is drying, I set about making the marker that will fit into the viewing window and makes reading the Azimuth degrees a lot simpler. So taking your cable tidy, draw a straight line on the top of both sides of the cable tidy and then extend the lines down the side, now on these lines and at equal height, drill a small hole so that the paper clip (once completely straightened out) will fit through, so that you have something like this.... I used a red paper clip but you could use white. You could glue the paper clip in place but I held it in place by bending it and leaving it like this.... It is held in place once you insert it into your top board but before you do, place some strong glue on the lip of the cable tidy and then press firmly into place, wiping up any excess glue immediately. It should now look like this... By now your setting circle should be flat, dry and ready to be put back in between your ground board and top board and bolted back together. If you have measured everything correctly, it should now look like this..... Hope this guide has been useful, if you have any questions or comments, please post them below.
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