G-Code Files area now empty as it was before.

Decided to order the 240v heater pad at about £32 from China and expected to take a month or so. Have to use the 12v one with relay until then.
20 X 20cm,400W@240V,w/3M PSA & Thermistor,Silicone Heater Pad,3D Printer HeatBed

Now running wires/cables and planning positions and fastenings for PSU and Duet board.

Have correct size acrylic sheet, 3m thick for back plane which I've attached, together with PSU, to the frame.  Then attached Duet board to back plane with four M4 standoffs.  Both PSU and Duet board are outside the main printer volume and separated from the heat from the heated print bed by the back plane.  The Duet board is spaced 25mm away from the back plane which should allow good circulation of cooling air.  Amazing how long these simple things seem to take these days!  Now need a cuppa

Now printing a clamp for the PSU to hold it where I couldn't drill a hole in the casing because the circuit board was in the way.

I shall need to find my crimping tool - I thought I knew where it was bit it's not there   I saw it when I was clearing up.  Anyway, I still have wiring to sort out.  It's very difficult to decide the best place for the control board as wires come from all directions.  I guess it really doesn't matter and probably best to just plonk it in a reasonable place and just wire up.  Probably best to keep the power input wires short (ish).

Crimping tool didn't go small enough for the power ferrules so just used bare wires - seems firm enough.  I can crimp the other connectors with narrow nosed pliers as I usually do with these (and similar Molex) multi-way connectors.

My order for BAT85 Schottky diodes has arrived so I can connect the Z probe.  Here's the wiring diagram.

Not done much to this today as not feeling up to par.  Just sorted out the run of some of the wiring and untangled my stock of flexible wire of various colours - cut some to length ready for wiring up.

Have two stepper motors wired up.  Fiddly job crimping the connector parts onto the wires.  Most of the stepper motors have supplied cables that plug into a connector on the motors and the wires have the standard colours but the order is different!  Not just that the windings are reversed but the windings are on 1 & 5, 3 & 6 on the motor and and wired to blue, green, red, black.  So the middle pair of wires are crossed over.  The motor I'm using for Z just has wires and they seem to be th RepRap standard so just extended them with the same colours and wired the Duet plug as shown in the wiki.  The XY motors will need longer connections than the supplied cables so I might as well make up totally new cables long enough for the job using new small Molex connectors of which I have a supply (box of assorted connectors).

I was wrong the connectors on the motors are not the same as my kit and my kit only goes up to 5 way whereas the motors are 6 way.  So I'll just extend the wires...

I have noticed that motor connections seem to be fairly non-standard and different between boards, kits etc.

For example my Prusa had the RAMPS wired Black-Green-Red-Blue whereas the Duet has Black-Green-Blue-Red.

Will still work but the effect of swapping one of the pairs (Red/Blue) is to reverse the direction. I have stuck to the Duet wiring schematic as I have rewired all the connectors.

Yes, I've checked the motor connections to see which are the coils and put the coils on 1&2 and 3&4 as required but which way the motors will rotate remains to be seen with a 50% chance of it being right.  If not it's just a matter of changing the settings, so no problem.  The motor directions always seem a gamble because it depends on the hardware arrangement.  For a standard design you can probably get the right direction from web site info but that doesn't apply to a purely DIY printer of the "make it up as you go along type"   Of course, with RAMPS the connectors are reversible and this reverses the motor direction but the Duet connectors are not reversible.

Now have all four stepper motors wired up but without the wiring fastened to the frame as yet.  I shall wait until I have the endstop wires done first as some take the same route as a motor.

Put connectors on the ends of the endstop wires, with the order shown in the Duet wiring diagram.  I noticed that the end stop connectors were the opposite way up compared with the motor connectors.  X and Y endstops are standard RepRap types but the X probe acts as Z endstop connected to the E0 endstop connector and Vin with signal connected through a Schottky diode as per the diagram.

Pics as follows :-

1. Circuit diagram.
2. Diode attached to crimp connector and Z probe wire.
3. Covered in heat-shrink.
4. Inserted into connector housing.

Put connector on bed thermistor cable and plugged it in.  One small step... more

Might have it ready for testing tomorrow

To Do :-

1. Connect bed heater wires.
2. Connect hotend heater wires.
3. Shorten hotend thermistor cable, attach connector and plug in.
4. Shorten hotend fan cable, attach connector and plug in.
5. Tidy up wiring and fasten in place.
6. Things I've forgotten

Before applying power I shall go over all the board checking the connectors - in the right places and connections in the right order.  I shall draw up a chart of all the connections and tick them off as I check them.  I'm taking great care over this as I don't want to destroy nearly £150 worth of circuit board!!!

Done today so far :-

1. Connected bed heater wires.
2. Connected hotend heater wires.
3. Shortened hotend thermistor cable, attached connector and plugged in.
4. Shortened hotend fan cable, attached connector and plugged in.
5. Started tidying up the wiring and fastening it in place.

I might leave any more tidying up until I've tested the printer.  Detailed checking is next...

Now to the massive task of checking all the connections.  Starting with the top half of the board.

E1 Heater - Not used
E0 Heater - Red wires from hotend heater.

Stepper Motors :- E1 not used - E0, X, Y, Z - Windings connected according to continuity - direction unknown.

E1 Thermistor - Not used.
E0 Thermistor - Cable from hotend thermistor - order irrelevant.

E1 STOP - Not used.
E0 STOP - Z Probe - LH data via diode, Middle N/U, RH Gnd
X STOP - Green Red Black
Y STOP - Green Red Black
Z STOP - Not used

Fans - Only one fan ATM - hotend - always on, connected to right hand fan connector - Left pin black wire (Gnd), right pin red wire (V_Fan).  12v fan so V_Fan should link to Vin.

EXT 5V - Top 5v_SB from PSU purple wire, Middle PS_ON green wire, Bottom n/c Gnd from main Gnd.

POWER IN - Top Vin - Yellow wires from ATX PSU (+12v).  Bottom - Black wires from PSU (Gnd)

Looks good. Are you not using the Z probe socket for your Z probe (at bottom of board)?

Bottom half.

Links :-
V_FAN RHS for Vin
JUMPER: INT 5V EN - None
JUMPER: EXT 5V EN - Link - uses +5v_SB from ATX PSU

HEATED BED - Top Orange wire to relay.  Bottom used for Z Probe power - Brown wire.  Power for bed heater direct from PSU and relay power also directly from PSU.

THERMISTOR BED - cable from heater pad - connection order irrelevant.

No other connectors used.

36 minutes ago, tekkydave said:

Looks good. Are you not using the Z probe socket for your Z probe (at bottom of board)?

No, that would appear to be for analogue probes.  I'm using an inductive sensor with NPN normally open output.  From the Duet wiki "Connecting a Z probe" :-

Quote

NPN output normally-open inductive or capacitive sensor

Connect its output wire to the cathode of a diode, and the anode of the diode to the E0 STP pin. Connect the sensor ground wire to a ground pin on the Duet, and the sensor's + power wire to a suitable voltage (typically to VIN because these sensors usually need between 6 and 30V power).

The diode should preferably be a small-signal Schottky diode such as BAT43 or BAT85, but a small signal silicon diode such as 1N4148 works for some people.

Select mode 4 in the M558 command. If using firmware 1.15e or earlier, include M574 E0 S0 in config.g to select active low logic level for the Z probe. If using firmware 1.16 or later, include parameter I1 in the M558 command instead.

I have now carefully checked all the connections and links - twice - and think I'm ready to apply power but I need a cuppa first  

Here's a photo of the Duet board - wiring not tidied up yet.

I think the Z probe connector can be used for either analogue or digital probes. I have my piezo probe connected to it. It can behave as analogue or digital depending on config.

From my config.g

; Z Probe / Endstop
M558 P5 I0 R0.4 F225 X0 Y0 Z1             ; P5 = Digital mode, I0 = NO, R0.4 = 400mS delay before probing, F300 = 300mm/min probe speed, X0 Y0 Z1 = used as axis endstop for Z axis
G31 X0 Y0 Z-0.2 P100                      ; X, Y, Z offsets, debounce interval

• P0 indicates that no Z probe is present.
• P1 specifies an unmodulated or smart IR probe, or any other probe type that emulates one (probe output is an analog signal that rises with decreasing nozzle height above the bed). If there is a control signal to the probe, it is driven high when the probe type is P1.
• P2 specifies a simple modulated IR probe, where the modulation is commanded directly by the main board firmware using the control signal to the probe.
• P3 is similar to P1 but drives the control signal to the probe low. This may be used to switch between different Z probes.
• P4 selects a switch for bed probing (on the Duet, this must be connected to the E0 endstop pins).
• P5 (from RepRapFirmware 1.14) selects a switch (normally closed) for bed probing between the In and Gnd pins of the Z-probe connector (Duet 0.8.5 and Duet WiFi).
• P6 is as P4 but the switch is connected to an alternative connector (on the Duet series, the E1 endstop connector).
• P7 is as P4 but the switch is connected to the Z endstop connector (firmware 1.20 and later).
• P8 is as P5 but the signal is unfiltered for lower latency (firmware 1.20 and later).

I guess you are using M558 P4 where the probe (acting as a switch) gets connected to the E0 endstop pins.

20 minutes ago, Gina said:

I have now carefully checked all the connections and links - twice - and think I'm ready to apply power but I need a cuppa first  

Here's a photo of the Duet board - wiring not tidied up yet.

Check the motor connections for Y and E0 - they seem to be different to X & Z (which match mine). Or is that the non-standard motor wiring you mentioned earlier?

Everything else looks good to me

32 minutes ago, tekkydave said:

I think the Z probe connector can be used for either analogue or digital probes. I have my piezo probe connected to it. It can behave as analogue or digital depending on config.

From my config.g

; Z Probe / Endstop
M558 P5 I0 R0.4 F225 X0 Y0 Z1             ; P5 = Digital mode, I0 = NO, R0.4 = 400mS delay before probing, F300 = 300mm/min probe speed, X0 Y0 Z1 = used as axis endstop for Z axis
G31 X0 Y0 Z-0.2 P100                      ; X, Y, Z offsets, debounce interval

• P0 indicates that no Z probe is present.
• P1 specifies an unmodulated or smart IR probe, or any other probe type that emulates one (probe output is an analog signal that rises with decreasing nozzle height above the bed). If there is a control signal to the probe, it is driven high when the probe type is P1.
• P2 specifies a simple modulated IR probe, where the modulation is commanded directly by the main board firmware using the control signal to the probe.
• P3 is similar to P1 but drives the control signal to the probe low. This may be used to switch between different Z probes.
• P4 selects a switch for bed probing (on the Duet, this must be connected to the E0 endstop pins).
• P5 (from RepRapFirmware 1.14) selects a switch (normally closed) for bed probing between the In and Gnd pins of the Z-probe connector (Duet 0.8.5 and Duet WiFi).
• P6 is as P4 but the switch is connected to an alternative connector (on the Duet series, the E1 endstop connector).
• P7 is as P4 but the switch is connected to the Z endstop connector (firmware 1.20 and later).
• P8 is as P5 but the signal is unfiltered for lower latency (firmware 1.20 and later).

I guess you are using M558 P4 where the probe (acting as a switch) gets connected to the E0 endstop pins.

Yes, that's the intention but I'll check the config.g file.  Would it be best to connect the board via USB for power to check or would using the +5v_SB from the ATX PSU be alright?