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Carl M

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Everything posted by Carl M

  1. I don't find it a problem at all setting up an EQ6 and 8" newt everytime, you may find that if you get some flight cases (if you haven't already?) it makes it much easier to take all the bits and bobs out at once. I have a case for the mount cables, synscan and accessory tray, then I have one for camera equipment. Then before it gets dark I take all the cases out and set the mount up, polar align as its starting to get dark with the newt outside also so the mirrors can cool down, then it's just a case of popping the newt on top and doing the star alignment. Takes a while getting used to but after some time it doesn't take very long at all.
  2. I agree with nmoushon, a 300P on an NEQ6 will be a lot to handle for astrophotography especially since it won't be a permanent setup. 1500mm F/L will require accurate tracking and very good polar alignment to yield decent exposure times. If you are considering to get into astrophotography I'd lower the aperture and F/L of the scope to something more comfortable like a 200PDS or 250PDS which would still be a considerable aperture upgrade over the 127 Skymax visually and would be more tolerable for imaging.
  3. Could be a number of things: Not looking directly at polaris Counterweight shaft not fully extended Haven't turned the DEC axis 90 degrees Cap not taken off the mount They would be the general things I would look for first. Carl
  4. If you have got Synscan with the hand controller you can guide through that using PC Direct mode in conjunction with EQMOD and PHD to pulse guide. You would only need a RS232 - USB adapter so that you can connect the handset to the laptop.
  5. You don't need a scope at all to image the milkyway, just a camera with a widefield lens and a mount to track in RA. Cygnus would probably be your best bet for widefield milkyway shots.
  6. What do you want to image? Deep sky, Planetary or Lunar? If it's a mixture of all 3 with the addition of visual observing my vote would be for a 200P/DS.
  7. You won't be disappointed if you manage to get an EQ6, the skyliner tube on it was absolutely rock solid even with an ST80 piggybacked on the top but imaging got the better of me so I decided to sell it to fund a Quattro. Be aware that if portability is a concern the EQ6 is quite a hefty lump of kit and you may be better suited to an HEQ5? Just some food for thought. EQ6's pop up sometimes on Astrobuysell and at times on eBay, I managed to get the standard black EQ6 for about £410 I believe on eBay a while back and just bought the Synscan upgrade separately shortly after so keep an eye out, there are deals to be had
  8. I did have the Skyliner 200P on a CG5 a while back and it wasn't exactly rock steady, still on it's limit for visual in my opinion. There really is no vast difference between the EQ5 and CG5 apart from the CG5 having 2" tripod legs and slightly better bearings in the axis of the mount. 1200mm focal length needs good, accurate tracking for imaging which an EQ5/CG5 is not going to suffice without you losing many of your exposures because of tracking errors. I'd strongly urge you to consider a second hand HEQ5 at a minimum for that scope opposed to an EQ5 or CG5. The mount is the most important component of the imaging setup.
  9. You should just need an RS232 to USB adapter. Use the synscan handset in PC-Direct mode with the RS232 cable + RS232 - USB connected to your laptop and pulse guide through EQMOD and PHD.
  10. I heard that the GSO f/4 newts didn't have good made mirror cells in comparison to Skywatcher's. Collimating an f/4 is generally no different to collimating an f/5 the f/4 just needs to be kept more accurately collimated. The best thing about f/4 is that you can keep exposure times short but still get good data without having so much noise on a single exposure, the coma corrector is a must though and I found out the annoying way that it's meant to go in the 2" adapter and not straight in the focuser DOH!
  11. Since your main interest is AP are you not considering the Skywatcher Quattro newts? The 8" ones are relatively short but the steel one do still weigh the same as a 200PDS I believe. However, you do get f/4 focal ratio which I suppose can be a good or bad thing depending on whether you are up to the challenge of collimation.
  12. SkyWatcher ST80 is the best budget option for a guidescope, you can get away with using a 9x50 finder coupled with a QHY5 if you are on a lower budget.
  13. If its the one on AB&S you would have to fit an upgrade kit for it to be goto, as standard it will just have dual axis motors. I got my EQ6 without synscan for something like £420 then put the synscan on soon after. Very simple to do by the way. If you can stretch your budget a bit further for an EQ6 you would be sorted for a long time I'm sure, it's not very portable though!
  14. For the sake of £61 it would surely be much easier just buying the EQ5 Synscan? That way you dont have to worry about faffing around with ST4 mods on a handset. Also you will get the extra functionality of the goto on the EQ5 which is very useful when imaging so that you dont have to spend time finding objects. Infact if you are controlling the mount through a computer you can just sell the handset to get back the £61 and just get an EQDirect module so you can control the mount through EQMOD and Stellarium, unless you want to keep the handset. You can still use it as an interface with the PC.
  15. What's new? It's not the sellers problem that bidders are foolish enough to pay more than the amount for a new one.
  16. You shouldn't be aligning the scope with polaris, it should be the polarscope of the EQ mount being aligned. The tripod does not need to be level and ignore what the latitude dial says as it isn't 100% accurate. As long as polaris is visible inside the polarscope then you will be polar aligned accurately enough for visual work.
  17. If you are not too worried on the focuser ScopesnSkies are selling the ED80 for £290, you might want to contact them first though to see if they are still in stock. Sounds like a bargain for £290. http://www.scopesnskies.com/prod/telescopes/80mm/sky-watcher/proseries/edrefractors-special.html
  18. For AP you wouldn't really want to use any of those scopes as they are achromats resulting in chromatic aberration. An ED80 is the best you will probably get with £550 budget for the scope. If you can get the focal reducer at a later date it will speed the scope up a tad and give a slightly wider field.
  19. If you want something for visual and imaging why not scrap the idea of the quattro and get something like the 200PDS? Then you can cut out the Paracorr but keep the MPCC for imaging and instead of spending the money on the Paracorr buy some good quality eyepieces? That's what I would do anyway, saves spending £400 odd on a Paracorr and you get some good eyepieces instead.
  20. I think there are 3 weights on the ebay advert but the counterweight is just rotated so that you cannot see the locking bolt. The celestron website only has 2 weights and the counterweight bar appears longer than the ebay advert.
  21. I would get guiding sorted to be fair, it's not essential but it's going to give you better pictures at the end of the day which is what you are after? Even if it's just a QHY5 and a finder guider it's going to give better results rather than unguided exposures which will be prone to tracking errors
  22. You should be fine with just a webcam to be able to capture the planets and the moon with that setup. Use SharpCap for the image capturing software and then stack the frames in Registax, you can then use Photoshop if you want to finish up the image a little bit after using the wavelets in Registax Deep sky objects you would really need the opposite setup with a motorised EQ mount and a DSLR. However a few people have done some pics with long exposure modded webcams.
  23. The APO's should produce a wider field of view but not 7 times I would have thought? Try this site and see if the field of view is different. Field of view Calculator<script src="title2.js"></script>
  24. Another thing to bear in mind is - are you going to be guiding? At f/4 1 min unguided exposures is going to collect much more signal than an f/6 or f/7 APO. Buying an APO is as close as you can get to plug n play whereas fast newts require collimation and a coma corrector to keep sharp stars around the edges.
  25. You will need an extension to get focus with the webcam on the ST80, I just use a barlow with the lens taken out to be able to focus.
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