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Carl M

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About Carl M

  • Rank
    Star Forming
  • Birthday 12/04/94

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  • Interests
    Computer Science, Programming, Gaming, Astrophotography
  • Location
    Ramsey, Cambridge, England
  1. Pleiades with Quattro and 1000D

    I may give Startools a try. I can do it in Photoshop too but the trouble is I want to bring out more dust as well as eliminate noise. Think for that it's best to just get more data, unfortunately had to throw away a load of subs from the end of the night. Cheers! Your Ha images with the 1000D are mightily impressive, convinced me to make a 12nm Ha clip filter my next purchase.
  2. First time taking flats and adding them to an image, they make processing a lot easier when the background is uniform. I don't think they were perfect but they've definitely helped. Will be making sure to take them for every image in the future. 28 x 300s at ISO 800 - 2hr 20mins worth of subs 36 flat frames, no darks or bias Dithered with APT and PHD2 Full spectrum 1000D with Astronomik CLS-CCD clip filter Quattro 8s on EQ6 guided with ST80 and ASI120MC Thinking of revisiting this soon to get some more data and eliminate some noise, but pretty pleased with what's there in 2 hours and 20 mins. Thanks for looking, Carl
  3. Could be internal reflection, but then I'd have thought the bright stars would probably exhibit a bit more of this effect. This is quite a close crop mind, but it's certainly visible in full frame. Other thing to note is that the coma like tail moves throughout the image. Presumably the result of the coma corrector trying to correct it maybe? This is the full frame 5min sub.
  4. I am sure it is the CCD version of the CLS filter, that's what it says on the filter at least. I always focus with the filter already in place since it's the clip in one. I went back and looked at some images I took with my C9.25 which was with the same camera and filter, these also has the same red fringes around stars. This should rule out the coma corrector and the scope being a problem I guess?
  5. So I've been having problems with my stars not being perfectly round, most of that in the past I put down to collimation. However, now I believe that something else is at play. On most stars it seems like there is a chromatic abberation type effect, in particular it seems to be the orange/red stars that appear to show it worse. My camera is a 1000D full spectrum modified (clear glass replacement) and Baader MPCC with the Astronomik CLS CCD clip filter installed, which I thought included IR cut. The red channel seems to be the channel that shows the fringing, blue and green channels the stars are round and not bloated. Here are a set of images from a raw 5min sub to try and show the effect. It almost looks like the fringing has not reached it's focus point, which gives the appearance of the star bloating. Since it is only apparent in the red channel, would that point to IR? In a single image it doesn't look so bad, but after stacking the fringe becomes worse. I'm aware there are some techniques that could reduce it in post processing like this one which I am going to try http://budgetastro.com/micro/articals/red_halos/red_halos.html I would much prefer to combat the issue at it's source though, if I can find out what it is! I'm going to borrow my old unmodified 1000D from my sister to see if the issue still remains. Any suggestions on what it might be? Cheers, Carl
  6. That's some lovely Ha detail from a DSLR. May I ask if you have debayered your DSLR for mono or are you shooting Ha through OSC?
  7. Witch's Broom with Quattro and 1000D

    It's starting to look much more promising now that collimation seems to be sorted. Next hurdle is post-processing, this time I at least managed to keep some star colour without sacrificing the colour in the main object too much. Slowly but surely making progress!
  8. Clear nights are coming thick and fast now! 34 x 300s ISO 800 - 2hr 50mins total exposure Dithered with APT and PHD2 No calibration frames Full spectrum 1000D with Astronomik CLS-CCD clip filter Quattro 8s on EQ6 guided with ST80 and ASI120MC Would have like to have gotten some more of the fainter details to come out, but I think it might need some longer exposures. Can't seem to go much higher than 5mins without the background being over exposed. Thanks for looking, Carl
  9. You probably don't have enough back focus, you may need to use an extension tube to reach focus.
  10. M31 with Quattro and 1000D

    I'm not sure on the exact model number I'm afraid, this focuser from FLO is the same as the one fitted on the Quattro I believe. Thanks Michael. I think I just left the dithering at the default amount, I don't remember changing it; but here are some screens of the settings I use.
  11. M31 with Quattro and 1000D

    You are right Graem, it's not got a lot of colour just a tint of blue. Colour balance with the Modded DSLR and filter always seem to be a bit of a struggle because it starts off overwhelmingly red after stacking. Normally when I go back and add saturation after processing it also affects the background colour (which I assume is what the masks you are referring to are for). I would love to see any changes you have made so I can look for improvements for when I inevitably go back reprocess again. If it helps I could post the .tif here or the raw stack for you. Cheers, Carl
  12. Finally a clear night without a capricious breeze where I could actually get some imaging done. This time M31, which I'd been putting off for a while because I can barely fit in in the frame and because I'd heard it's a big of a pig to process..and so it was. Anyhow, I got it into a position where I'm happy to post it. 34 x 240s ISO 800 - total 2hr 16mins Dithered with APT and PHD2 No calibration frames Full spectrum 1000D with Astronomik CLS-CCD clip filter Quattro 8s on EQ6 guided with ST80 and ASI120MC Think sometime in near future I will give it another process, but for now it'll do. Next time I will try and do flats to see if it helps create a more uniform background, that seems to be the main problem when processing. Thanks for looking, Carl
  13. You could be right there, it's very difficult to tell... should have taken an image in the top left without filter and the lines may have been a bit more apparent if they are there. If that would be the case then I'd assume that the diffraction spike is coming from the secondary not being centred and the light cone clipping a bit of the focuser. I did have a single diffraction spike problem before without the filter, perhaps since then I've recentred the secondary and made the problem worse or better which has changed the pattern of the spike. I hadn't thought of that, thank you - time to recollimate!
  14. Hello there, A while ago I posted a topic with the same problem, and initially I thought something was up with collimation or mechanically. Previous thread: However, now I have found the problem to only exist when my Astronomik CLS-CCD filter is installed into my Canon 1000D camera. The only thing I can seem to do that changes the effect of these spikes is move the bright star into corners of the image. When I remove the filter, the issue is no longer present. Obviously I could just image without the filter, but I don't think I will be able to expose for as long without LP saturating the image. Any ideas as to what else could cause this? I'm struggling to think of anything the filter is possibly doing to the light path to cause this artefact, other than possibility of some sort of internal reflection. I've even intentionally made collimation bad to see if the spikes changed shape compared to collimating properly, and nothing changed. It does seem as though something could be intruding the light path, but I can't figure out what it would be and why adding a filter would create the effect? I appreciate any suggestions!
  15. I have a spare set of 235mm Skywatcher Tube Rings that came with my 8" Quattro. I already had a pair of rings with a guidescope on so these were swapped out after a few uses and then put aside. Also comes with a medium size dovetail which only has a few signs of use along the edges. Comes with attachment bolts as pictured. Asking for £30, includes UK postage. Payment via Paypal.