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CowsonConcrete

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Everything posted by CowsonConcrete

  1. I'll take it. I see you're in Derbyshire, not the Sheffield side are you?
  2. Hi, I've just sold my EQ5 and Skywatcher 130pds and am about to buy a Williams Optics Redcat 51. The move is for a smaller kit and the fact that the Redcat can be used as a terrestrial lens as well Anyways, I kept some EPs and would like some advice as to whether I need a star diagonal or Prism. The scope/ lens will mainly be used for astrophotography but I would like to do some viewing as well. My current EPs are nothing special in terms of quality but will be sufficient for what I need (super plossi's etc). So should I get the WO prism or a £65 Skywatcher diagonal or is there something else....... Thank you
  3. Apologies forgot to say f5.6, 1/800 and iso 640
  4. Hi, Here's a quick shot of last night's moon. I've broken the crayford on my SkyWatcher 130pds so had to hold the focuser tube to get it sharp. Not ideal but I'm pleased with the result. Àny ideas how I can add more colour without affecting the detail? Thanks
  5. Thanks John. You appear to have used few words to make what, in my head, was a massive job a lot simpler! I'll look to pick up something from Astroboot or treat myself to a new one and give it a go. With reference to my confidence; if I don't need to remove the mirror and is basically moving the four connecting screws. I'm all over it!! Kind regards, Thanks again,
  6. Hi, No, it's https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/skywatcher-2-dual-speed-crayford-focuser-for-explorer-models.html but I guess any would work. I think if I replace it it will mean me taking out the secondary mirror which doesn't fill me with confidence. Reading between my own lines I'm asking is it cheaper to fix or should I sell my scope just for parts? Thank you
  7. Hi, I haven't posted on here for a long time and have probably got the wrong discussion thread, however, I dug out my scope and mount the other day and once mounted I over balanced and the the whole rig fell on top of me in a very slow and controlled fashion(!). Where everything seems fine the a small metal ring with a nodule inside was snapped and dropped out of the focusser. As such unless the set up is in it's "starting position" then the rack and pinion set up inside the focusser won't work and I have to hold the tube manually. Not ideal. As it happens I want to sell my scope (a Skywatcher 200p) but would like to know if the Crayford can be fixed by either me or a shop and if anyone had any idea of the cost of a repair. Sorry for adding a mundane question but when I started viewing this site was an inexhaustible supply of help. Kind regards,
  8. Hi, great picture. Can I ask how you managed to get 240sec subs unguided? After about 5 secs using my eq5 I get trails. I do intend to buy motors but it would be nice to capture a DSO unguided in the meantime. Thank you
  9. Thanks again for all your responses. I do have pictures but won't be at my pc until Monday so can't show them till then. Happy-kat: loving the cheap webcam idea, love to see how that pans out. Rikm: thanks for the math. I think I'd heard that before but didn't want to believe it ;-). Given a clear night next week, when I'm home, I'll try again and post the pics on this thread. I did question buying motors first and then a syncscan but don't want to spend £90 now and then £300 in a few months time.
  10. Thanks for the response. Yes, I have a phone. no I don't have a remote shutter I use timer And no I don't have a motor drive. My camera is a micro four thirds so has no mirror. The trails all look to be through a shake rather than star movement and I wouldn't expect to see star trail at the short exposure time using the afocal method. I'm in the market for a syncscan but want to make sure I don't need to use a different camera. Thanks again.
  11. Hi, I have a 130p ds and a newly acquired EQ5. I use am Olly e pl1 which takes great terrestrial pictures but when attached to a scope or Ep (via t adapter) I always get slight trailing. The amount of trail is the same between 1 and 15 seconds (anything after that I would presume comes from celestial movement. The amount of trail is also only marginally better than I had using the EQ2 which makes me think there's movement in the camera (I use a timer when I take the pics). Do I need a new camera? A web cam isn't an option as I don't have the finds for a lap top. I don't want to spend my money on syncscan motors now if I'll still have this problem using this camera so what's the best used DSLR body I could buy. It would be used for Astro work only. Thanks
  12. Fantastic pictures. 3 & 5 are amazing, the detail is great. This is an example of what dark skies and good kit, used properly, can produce. Thanks for sharing
  13. Hi, Absolutely superb thread. It's what I've been looking for for ages, I take a couple of months off and up it pops!! I have a 130PDS and have had since October, switching from a Celetron 120mm Refractor. My moon shots aren't bad but I do struggle with anything over a couple of seconds exposure with movement. I have an EQ2 mount. "Aha, there's your problem" I hear you all shout, however funds dictate my kits quality. What then would be the cheapest mount for my 130PDS with camera? Would an EQ3 suffice or do I have to up it to EQ5? (this is for imaging rather than just Thank you
  14. I have a 130 PDS and an Olympus Pen EPL1, not the best pairing but I still take "recognisable" images. Knowing that a webcam, EQ5 mount (and upwards), computer, guider scope and syncscan software would be infinately preferable puts your own images into perspective! Feel free to look at mine on mine and a friends, with a similar set up, on my own blog.
  15. Great image. Clear and well processed.
  16. Seems quite obvious but I hadn't thought of that!! Thanks for your quick response.
  17. Hi, Amongst a new EP and barlow I got for Christmas I also received a #21 filter, which I asked for. As most of my imaging is lunar I thought it would be a good thing to have and visually it is stunning, however what little time I have had to use it I've found that I have struggled to find focus plus, and this may be a really stupid question, I wondered is it possible to "wash out" the orange but keep it's better contrast quality when editing the final image. Any help appreciated. Thank you
  18. Great shot Nightfisher. How do you like using the Pen DSLR? I use a PEN EPL1 which does take some good planetary shots but there is always a fair bit of movement when the shutter opens. Thanks
  19. Thanks for comments. Thanks for the links I've now just stacked my first 10second video of Jupiter. It's not great but the fact it's better than my stills means I'll now have a new project!
  20. Thanks. I did up the noise reduction to about 25 just to despeckle a little. I'll work on the blue limb.
  21. As promised; I think the first is better as I have "messed" with the second too much but it has bought out a bit more detail in the bleached out area. Thank you Al
  22. Sorry, I thought the link would work. I've powered down for the night and can't attach it via my mobile device. I'll try again in the morning. Moderators; please feel free to delete this post.
  23. Hi, While the clouds are hovering I thought I would try my hand at processing. This is a single shot taken a while ago now cropped and with the levels slightly adjusted. It was taken with an Olympus pen epl1 and a 120mm spotting scope cid:FA9C82A2-B586-44B9-9560-8B95A98F3114/untitled-3.jpg Can it be made to look better? Be honest, I've broad shoulders! I'm pretty chuffed with it actually. Thanks
  24. Great shots and nice to see the journey. I'm hoping to try for the first shot this weekend. Watch this space in 2015!!
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