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Everything posted by gustavo_sanchez

  1. Nice come back! Sent from my Lumia 1520 using Tapatalk
  2. You mean you don't recommend using the built-in hub?
  3. It could be that it is not enough! Last night, the humidity could be felt on the air, and the weather app showed 94% relative humidity. I took a few 20 min exposures at 10C and there was no dew. But now I worry about a noisy camera since I can't cool it too much :'( Sent from my Lumia 1520 using Tapatalk
  4. I will try that. I have a small telescope dew heater, maybe if I wrap it around the nosepiece it could help. However, I understand that the STF has integrated window heater... Sent from my Lumia 1520 using Tapatalk
  5. Hello to all, I hace been having problems with my SBIG STF-8300M. The thing is that the images are getting dewed after a while. I notice this because a faint shadow starts to grow on the image, and increases from image to image. The whole histogram gets a bit darker. I have to increase the temperature to make it go away. I acknowledge that I live in an extremely moist environment, but is this normal? Right now I got dew at 5C. I am retrying at 10C. I reheated the desiccant less than a month ago, and I keep the camera in a closed room with a dehumidifier. Let me know what you think!
  6. I currently use PixInsight and darktable for my processing needs. I only use Win for capture control of my SBIG camera. Running Ubuntu 14.04.
  7. I use AstroPlanner. Its very nice. You should check it out. Sent from my Nokia Lumia 1520 using Tapatalk
  8. Hello to all, this is my first color image using my STF-8300M and Baader LRGB filters. In addition, this is my first image processed in PixInsight. Please provide feedback on it; I don't mind constructive and respectful critique. Astrobin:
  9. Hello, Maybe this is a dumb question. I have noticed that when I am taking pictures, there is a movement in the image from one image to the next, as when you dither (which I am not doing). The movement is only in one axis, like when it is trailing, but the stars are still round! I mean, in one image a star is in one place. In the next image, the same star is a bit to the right. Next image, same star moved to the right even further. It is completely round in each image, without dithering. Would expect this is the cause of the dark borders created after stacking... Why is this? Is this the guiding? Sent from my Nokia Lumia 1520 using Tapatalk
  10. Hello to all, Can somebody let me know what to do if I get the following warning message? The frames were captured with Nebulosity and normalized, but after selecting the first alignment star, Nebulosity asks me for the CIM threshold, and then I get the error. I am doing something wrong? I tried using Nebulosity 2 and also Nebulosity 3.1.8. The camera is a color Atik 314L+. The number of frames stacked is 12.
  11. Thanks a lot for the insights. Two nights ago, I started cooling the camera much earlier, and after it stabilized I took a few test exposures (about a minute in duration). I found no dark pixels. Sent from my Nokia Lumia 920
  12. I will try stabilizing the camera much earlier to see if I can eliminate this. Regarding ice, I really doubt it; the temperatures are too hot over here. During the night, the most the camera can cool is almost zero, but not below. How can it be that the ice is present at the beginning, but not later? The camera is stored inside my house before using. Sent from my Nokia Lumia 920
  13. This issue appears in the lights. I use Artemis Capture to take the images. I cool down only to zero because I live in the tropics and the ambient temperature at night was about 25C. Sent from my Nokia Lumia 920
  14. Hello to all, Maybe you can help me this issue. I am currently getting some strange dark pixels in my exposures, like an "bug swarm" pattern. They only appear on the first few exposures I take, and disappear later. Last night, I was taking 15-minute exposures @ 0 degrees C and this artifact was present on the first three frames but disappeared by the fourth one. Any idea what could this be? The attached screenshot shows a 200% zoom region of one of my uncalibrated lights with those black pixels. I should note that they are difficult to remove during processing, and since my guiding is fairly good, they remain after stacking. Please help!
  15. I want to provide my opinion... Startools has worked perfectly with my images. I have used PS before, but is not as easy to use. Though it would be nice to have an updated version of the manual, I find it very intuitive and it even provides pop-up hints on how to use it. The denoise tool is simply awesome. Regarding the "heavy handed" way, that's what the sliders are for... To lessen the effect. Toggle the before/after button, tweak the effect to your taste, and when you feel satisfied, click on "Keep". Second thoughts? Undo! It's very simple actually
  16. Hi, what can be expected then for us 10.6 users? Are there any plans of updating Nebulosity then with the 10.6 drivers? I got confused.
  17. I got one recently, and I love it. This is when I first mounted it in my Orion SVP: This is during first light: This one was doing some Moon observing: This one was while speaking about the solar system during a summer camp for youngsters: This is the lens cell unscrewed from the tube: ...and the last one! after some wiping to remove fingerprints: Hope you like them all!
  18. Thanks, maybe with just the drivers working I could use another app to run the camera? Like Nebulosity or something like that?
  19. This is very nice! I have a question; I downloaded the standalone application, but it looks like it only runs on MacOSX 10.8 (Mountain Lion). I have 10.6.8 Snow Leopard. Is there a way of running it on my computer?
  20. Thanks Mike, but you think it would be the primary mirror on a reflector? That is supposed to move at all during an exposure? I am baffled.
  21. Hello to all, It would be great if any of you can give some insight on how to solve my current problem, which is that I cannot achieve round stars in exposures longer than 3 minutes. Less than that, I get round stars. First of all, my setup: Imaging scope: Meade SN-6 (762mm FL, f/5) Imaging camera: Atik 314L+ CCD Guiding scope: Celestron TravelScope 70 (400mm FL, f/5.7) Guiding camera: Orion SSAG (with GSO 0.5x Reducer threaded directly to 1.25" nosepiece) Mount: Orion Sirius EQ-G I am attaching my PHD Guiding Advanced Settings, hoping that anyone can suggest any changes to the existing parameters. I consider my polar alignment good, and use the 3-Star Alignment option. With these parameters, the guiding graph in PHD looks very good, without big spikes or strange jumps. Both RA and DEC lines look fairly flat and smooth. Let me add that using these parameters, I can achieve 10 minute exposures (more than enough for me) using my William Optics GT81 (478mm FL) instead of the Meade SN-6, and my 50mm finder guider instead of the TravelScope and GSO Reducer. Any help will be very appreciated.
  22. I got a blue (limited edition) GT81 just yesterday. I noticed that the difference between my scope and the GTF81 is just the built-in flattener, which is nice. However, my concern is that almost all of the current field reducers I know of are also field flatteners, so the flattening effect of the FR/FF will undo the already flat field of the GTF81. On the other hand, the GT81 will just accept the FR/FF just fine. What's your opinion on this matter?
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