GalaticBoba

Hi, I'm thinking of getting an entry level setup for the kids that is as simple to use as possible. This is my current build, am I forgetting anything, or any better options out there?

Skywatcher AzGTi

Skywatcher evostar 72ED ds pro

Stellamira 2" 0.8 field flattener

Zwo asi 178mc

Astro essentials 30mm guide scope

Zwo asi 120mm mini

Zwo asiair plus

Baader finder shoe

On 04/09/2022 at 10:56, michael8554 said:

add some rubber bands 

Genius idea. Implemented. 

And I like that small rig. I'll have to order one of those. 

Thanks all.

Finally received everything I need to put this together, but where do I put the T7. I could get a longer cable and leave it on the floor or stick some velcro to attach to the asiair. 

Can anyone think of a better solution?

Hello, I'm looking for something like this for my celestron cgx mount. It's to be kept in the garage where whole setup can be wheeled to the patio. Anyone know of anything suitable?

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/skywatcher-pillar-mount-support-for-heq5-eq6-series-mounts.html

Thanks.

Brilliant, thanks for the responses. The 8SE mount is far too wobbly with all the accessories so this now sits on a CGX.

Is there a better SW focuser then the link I posted, I can't find anything on FLO. 

Should I get this microfocuser for my SW Classic 250p dob. 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-focusers/dual-speed-crayford-1252-inch-focuser-for-skywatcher-explorer.html

And this for my Celestron 8SE SCT.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/starlight-instruments-feather-touch-sct-microfocusers/ft-microfocuser-ftm-c8.html

I want more control over focusing for visuals. However, I have started my collection of ZWO equipment for imaging and already ordered an ASIair plus. My intention is to buy the ZWO EAF, will these microfocusers work with this EAF? I assume I won't need this bracket?

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-eaf-bracket-for-celestron-c8-and-c925-sct-telescopes.html

Or are microfocusers redundant with EAF?

I thought I would share my experience of Astrophotography using the Dunning-Kruger Effect. 

What about this one?

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/telescopes-in-stock/sky-watcher-startravel-102-az-gte.html

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/telescopes-in-stock.html

You're right, that is the visual back that would normally accept a barlow/diagonal/ep. 

However it's far too big to fit to the efw.

I need a male m54 to male m42. Not sure why one wasn't included with the EFW. Although I think this might work.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-m42-camera-sensor-tilt-adjuster-plate.html

I can connect the top row, field corrector to power mate to efw adapter to efw. However I can't figure out how to connect the camera. The manual says "simply thread it to the m42 interface". 

None of the bottom row does anything useful. 

Thanks all, this makes sense now. Google couldn't find this answer.

11 minutes ago, John said:

Often these multiple element systems have the lenses arranged in more than one group, so you can find a doublet or a triplet set much closer to the focuser of the scope.

The TAL Apolar 125mm had 6 elements with just a singlet as the furthest forward and no low dispersion glass types used. It was pretty much apochromatic as I recall. I would not want to have to collimate one though !

Point 7 above is the focal plane, not a further element.

 

I see, so a quintuplets could actually be similar to quads and triplets just with lenses grouped together. I would assume in the above diagram 2, 3 and 4 are for CA and lenses 5 and 6 are for flattening the image.  

1 minute ago, happy-kat said:

You can have doublet Apochromatics such as skywatchers ED range.

I know there are exceptions, when fluorite is used in doublets these are often called Apo's.

Just wondering...

From my reading broadly speaking, (I know there are exceptions), a doublet has two lenses, second lens re focuses blue and red light to reduce chromatic aberration. ED and fluorite coatings are often used here to further reduce CA. Marketing often use Achromatic as a selling keyword.

Triplets have an additional lens which focuses 3 wavelengths further reducing CA. Marketing often calls these Apochromatic.

Quadruplets builds upon the triplet and adds a fourth lens which flattens the FOV useful in AP.

So what does the 5th lens do in a quintuplet?

I'm in the same situation as you, I want to start doing DSO imaging but the choices and equipment are overwhelming, also like you want to use mono and filters. So I've decided to do planetary first, I can then learn a simpler setup, with no need for guide cameras so less software to learn, also no need for expensive narrowband filters. Once I've learnt the basics I can then add narrowband filters, get a cooled DSO camera and use the planetary camera for guiding. Then I might look into ASiAir and their equivalents. 

Just a thought. 

Yeah, the dob mounting points is 18cm wide and that plate is 35cm so should gives some flexibility with balancing.

Thanks, yes it will take both losmandy and vixen. I was concerned with the dob mounts getting in the way. 

Hello, I already have a Sky-watcher Classic 250p Dob and a CGX mount. Will it work if I buy the below two items to put the reflector on the mount? I don't want to remove the mounting points for the dob, I still like the quick setup of the dob but occasionally I may want to put it on my EQ mount to experiment with AP. 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/skywatcher-telescope-tube-rings.html

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dovetails-saddles-clamps/skywatcher-355mm-losmandy-style-dovetail-bar.html

Thanks for the responses.

If I go for the 290MM, how will I take a lunar photo without getting a new telescope?

Hello, I'm looking at these two cameras, for my planetary setup. 

I'm leaning towards the 178 as it will provide more flexibility, more pixels, smaller pixels, better FW, higher Bit rate. However at full resolution and bit rate, I'll only be getting 30 fps. So not sure if I'll even take advantage of the extra features, the  290 has 2.7x more fps at max settings although on comparable settings just 1.5x higher fps. In peoples experience will the additional FPS be more useful than the other mentioned stats for planetary, lunar and potentially solar?

I'm thinking my 8" SCT with a Powermate x4 for Jupiter/Saturn and my 4" refractor for Lunar, would need a reducer if using the 290 which I have. 

Any opinions? 178 for flexibility or 290 for fps and also is a powermate x4 a good option for Jupiter?

p.s. I'll be getting 2" mounted LRGB filters, so I have a full sensor filter setup for the future. Although I am probably leaning towards the ASI2600MM Pro for DSO at a later date.    

I'm about to get some new counter weights and there are two main options that I can choose from, which ones will give me the best balance lbs or kg?

If you move the mount you'll need to realign. If you mark the ground where the tripod legs are and you levelled it correctly you might be able to retain your alignment.

If you do move it you should still be able to retain the calibration even if you don't retain the alignment. 

Hi all, quick question, I'm just looking into filters and wondering if there really is a difference between these types? Or is it just a marketing thing?

Like these examples? 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/baader-filters/baader-narrowband-ccd-emission-line-h-alpha-filters-2.html

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/baader-filters/baader-high-speed-65nm-narrow-band-filter-cmos-optimised.html

Also on the subject of filters, some are optimised for fast or slow scopes. I have medium to slow scopes right now (f4.4 to f10). But will definitely be buying faster ones down the line. So should I get the faster filters now or get cheaper ones and later get expensive more optimised filters, once I've figured out my exact setup?

22 minutes ago, Maclean156 said:

Ok I connected up with cpwi and can control through hand control and also WiFi. Looks like cloud again tonight so cannot test it tonight but all looks good. 

Why would I want to do a manual align? Doesn't that defeat the point of starsense? I only got starsense for its automatic functions. If I was going to do a manual align I might as well just use the normal hand controller surely? 

Manual align is not as manual as it sounds. You slew somewhere press a button in the app and repeat twice more. I have light pollution and trees that can sometimes get in the way and possibly confuse it.

Also if using the app you must setup and align in the app and only use the app. You can't start with the hand controller then switch to the app. That causes lots of issues.

And always "connect and align" on the app if the scope has moved. Don't connect and then press the align button. If you just click connect it remembers your last alignment and tries to improve on that one.