-
Posts
56 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Blogs
Posts posted by chemistorge
-
-
On 13/12/2023 at 03:53, JBD said:
I was looking at this project and I think it's fantastic!
I have several Xagyl filter wheels including 2 to 8 filters which no longer work because of the electrical circuit, I called on the company as well as several retailers who sell this product to have new circuits, but without success . Is it possible to have a code for a filter wheel for 8 filters?
This would undoubtedly save (if I can make the adaptation), my 2 wheels with filters which no longer work.
Thanks in advance!Hi this is possible, the current code is hard coded for 5 in several places (bad me), but I will try and have time to update to a more general code for filter numbers up to 8. Do the official filter wheels do magnetic sensing?
-
On 16/03/2023 at 12:40, OscarP said:
Very interesting building.
I have the wheel (purchased one, i hate make theads in my 3d printer), i have the electronic, ascom recognize it, wheel move , but need config and choose a position for the hall sensor......
....but, please, can you explain me what i must change in the code for use the same motor attached to the exterior side of the inner wheel? using friction to move, but a lot of more steps per revolution.....
Watching your video i see that you installed the magnet between two filter positions, i have a very small neodymiun that trigger the digital hall sensor perfectly, but what values must i change? (i see the changes in lines 23 y 24 for choose digital and low sensor).
I see some lines that sure i must change, but i am not a programmer (only a "copy and paste" man), and it was very usefull to know what changes i must make depending of the total steps for revolution...
line 8#define Steps 4 //stepper steps 2048 per revline 22#define analogSensorThreshold 430 // set the threshold below which the homing sensor is triggered#define HALLSENSORTYPE 2 // SET to 1 for ANALOG HALL Sensor, CHANGE to 2 for DIGITAL HALL SENSOR#define HALLACTIVETYPE 2 // SET to 1 for ACTIVE HIGH Digital Sensor, CHANGE to 2 for ACTIVE LOW digital Sensorline 26const int filterPos[] = {0, 56, 466, 876, 1286, 1696}; //Rough alignment of filterPosline 85stepper.runToNewPosition(stepper.currentPosition() - 500); //back magnet off sensorstepper.moveTo(3000); //set move to as 3000 (one rotation is ~2000 steps so if not homed by then raise error.Thanks..
OscarP
Line 8: the 4 sets the mode of the Accelstepper driver to Unipolar.
Line 22:
#define analogSensorThreshold 430 // set the threshold below which the homing sensor is triggered
set threshold for trigger if using an analog Hall Sensor (analog is 0-1023), with no magnet it will read ~512.
#define HALLSENSORTYPE 2 // SET to 1 for ANALOG HALL Sensor, CHANGE to 2 for DIGITAL HALL SENSOR#define HALLACTIVETYPE 2 // SET to 1 for ACTIVE HIGH Digital Sensor, CHANGE to 2 for ACTIVE LOW digital Sensorchange to suit hall sensor type.ine 26const int filterPos[] = {0, 56, 466, 876, 1286, 1696}; //Rough alignment of filterPosrough position of filter positions from Hall Sensor (sensor, filter1, filter2, filter3, filter4, filter5). used to set rough position of filters in motor steps from home. The position offsets are later used to fine tune these values.line 85stepper.runToNewPosition(stepper.currentPosition() - 500); //back magnet off sensorused to move the magnet off the sensors so that if by chance the sensor and magent are aligned we can remove the signalstepper.moveTo(3000); //set move to as 3000 (one rotation is ~2000 steps so if not homed by then raise error.do just over one revolution of the filter wheel looking for sensor signal. We must find the homing signal by then. -
12 hours ago, fozzybear said:
I see you have been in contact with @brown_rb so he can add the info to the PDF great job done.
Thank you, I like all controls in one place for my Astro rig and also if I use a remote set up I couldn’t access the dew controller. That was the reason for writing the driver. I hope others find it useful.
After talking with Jasem (Indi) the driver will be available from source (Indi Github) or through the nightly builds (PPA details) and in the upcoming stable release on 31st March.
- 2
-
On 19/11/2020 at 18:49, fozzybear said:
James,
Robert has a Linux version written for Ubuntu. It was compiled in Lazarus Pascal v2.02
When I try and run the executable nothing happens on my RPi
Andy
I have just finished writing an Indi driver that implements all features of the mydewcontrollerpro 3 fw 340+. The driver is now included in indiLib under auxiliary drivers.
- 2
- 1
-
7 hours ago, chemistorge said:
Isn't that what duct tape is for?
I actually used duct tape for the focus ring on the lens for the time lapse. My children were around and one small hand could spelt an out of focus horror!!!!
- 1
-
21 minutes ago, scotty1 said:
Are you using a tracked telescope for the movie? It's good 👍
No, standard photo tripod, re-centre between captures. Then process in PIPP to centre and crop frames plus produce video.
- 1
-
19 minutes ago, JimFR said:
That’s really nice! I had intended to do something like that but had forgotten my K mount T-adaptor! I doubt the focuser on my old skyhawk 4.5” would’ve kept my DSLR up though...
Isn't that what duct tape is for?
- 1
-
-
-
5 hours ago, Thalestris24 said:
Hi
I was interested to see what values you've used for the astro threads but have not managed to read your .xml It throws up an error in Edge and the downloaded file isn't easily readable in Notepad++ which I normally use for xml files like the AstroISOmetric one. Any ideas?
Thanks
Louise
Hi Sorry, I attached the github html download not the correct xml file.
Here is the correct XML file.AstroThreads.xml
-
just to add my experience: I have printed threads, 1.25", 2" and M42. In my experience internal threads tend to shrink a little making them tight. To alleviate this I created an 8G tolerance for internal threads to account for this.
I also print if possible with the threads around the z-axis with a 0.1 mm layer height.
I have included my fusion 360 thread file with 8G tolerances
-
Just now, vlaiv said:
I also wanted to get that, but now looking at new Ender 3 s1
ooh, not seen that one..A 3d printer has been very useful, I have printed... SWeq5 motor mounts, dew shield, m42, m48 adaptors, dove tails, flats boxes, screen bezels, lens adaptors for asi294, telescope back plates........and things I can't remember. Before I had a 3d printer, I didn't know I needed one, but now I do!!!!
-
I own an Ender 3 v2, and drilling plastic boxes is thankfully a thing of the past. Now I just boot up Fusion 360, find my calipers, grab a coffee and an hour later off to the printer and a while later I have the perfect box.
- 1
-
7 hours ago, malc-c said:
OK there is one problem that will make using any prototype / strip board build very difficult. The above schematic uses a pin on the module PCB labelled DIAG. as shown in the top half of this image I found on the web
The problem is the VREF and DIAG pins are all in line with the ENable pin and at standard 0.1" pitch, so effectively shorting them together when placed on a proto / strip board.
It would also seem that the 2225 has been replaced by the 2226. I've checked the component library in DipTrace and the TMC2225 doesn't exist so I'll have to modify one of the existing driver boards to create a new component and then if I get time will design a small PCB based on the schematic and upload the gerbers. It's up to the OP if he wants to send them off to a Chinese PCB house and have them made. It won't be anything fantastic, just a crude slap together design
Hi, you just need to cut the traces and then use small wire to jump across to nearby track.
- 1
-
I buy cast iron round (100 mm diameter) on ebay, I then drill centre out to require diameter and drill in from side and tap to M8 and fit screw knob, I have just one for my samyang 135 mm on my SW eq5. I usually also give them a clear laquer coats to stop rust. Weight is around 1 -2 kg depending on thickness of round. Cast piece for this was £12 including postage. (100 mm x 1")
- 2
-
Note: I have not used stripboard for years, horrible stuff, much better solutions out there now.
-
I bought these boards for prototyping: Protob oards Amazon
very little cutting of tracks needed, I have pictured a possible layout for you. I could probably put that circuit above on these boards in under an hour.
- 1
-
I can highly recommend the ender 3 v2 3d print, just make sure you get the latest main board with it.
-
Hi,
I spend along time looking for a way to mount by new 135 mm lens to my mount with my ASI294 attached, I could only find a commercial 3d printed one. So I used Fusion 360 to make my own. I have included the STL files on thingyverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5205883) (Not up for 24 hours as I am a new user). I printed in PLA on ender 3 v2, 208 deg nozzle, bed at 65 deg, 0.2 mm layer height and 20 % infill.
I used M4 bolts to attach rings to dovetail and M6 nylon bolts to secure lens into the rings (Note: don't over tighten nylon bolt in ring near front of lens as it stops the focuser turning).
hope it is useful to someone!
large sma135 ring_with M6 thread v2.stlSmall sma135 ring_with M6 thread v2.stlsamyang dovetail v1.stl
- 2
-
Hi There,
Sorry for the long time for a reply, work, christmas and Covid has got in the way.
I have wrote the basics of a arduino library for accessing EF and EFS lens. I have also wrote a sketch that can communicate with Ekos via the Myfocuser2 protocol, it allows you to do the autofocus routine with a canon lens.
I have attached the current files for your enjoyment!!!
-
Finally managed to have time to progress this project.
So far:
1) Figured out the protocol and code to send commands and parse replies.
2) I can adjust aperture and focus.
3) Implemented routine to find current focus position.
4) Implemented routine to move focus steps +/-.
5) Implemented routine to find total number of focus steps.
On the lens I am using the focus motor is not that precise.
- 2
-
-
Thank you, I am currently modifying the cad to take 2" filters, the firmware will be the same.
-
I cut a new focuser hole in my 130p to upgrade and solve prime focus issues. Here is the details about how I cut the actual hole :
- 1
DIY 3D Printable Motorised 1.25" Filter Wheel (ASCOM and INDI)
in DIY Astronomer
Posted
Code now updated to include any number for filters. Change the following settings to suit your setup