Peter-uk
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Posts posted by Peter-uk
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Yes Len
Theres a small flat cut on the bottom of the round bar then a 2mm slot cut in the endsrossco72
The furnace is not really necessary but the small milling machine or lathe with milling attachment is very usefull
synchronicity
Yes without the machines/tools this could be done by hand
but it would take a lot of effort, would the end result be up to what you need
I don't know if the NEQ6 casting is identical to your EQ5,
But its very easy to workout the dimensions when you have the mount apartPete
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Hi Michael
please don't forget to order your PPE as well
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I decided I needed one of these illusive items. So decided to make my own. Unfortunately, my bar stock was to small for this so I had to start the furnace
and mould my own billet to start with. So below are some photos from the last couple of days in the garage
The first one is my lack of patience breaking out the cover plates, we did have some new ones ready.
The second and third are the 3d printed templates along with the poured aluminium mould. A couple of the end product.
One with the rail kit in place. And as with all diy projects I did have to shave a few millimetres off the round bar to get the clearance when I refitted it, forgot to get a picture of that.
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Next week i will have a go at making one or two of these (i need one for my neq 6 pro)
I have some small engineering machines it shouldn't be that hard
Don't understand why they haven't made a insert to replace that m10 thread? maybe i will find out when i take mine apart
Just need to find a way of removing the round neq 6 pro cover without damaging it, looks like like it's glued on
Thanks for the link wookie
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The best solution i have seen becouse it stops the mount from pushing down and back on the bolt at the same time, is the EQ6 Rail Kit.
More about it here Not sure if it's still available to buy but nut the hard to make
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Thats top secret
It was developed by nasa to help their flag stay up and blow in the wind for Apollo 11 mission- 4
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Quote
The last one just would not find the thread, and whilst I played around with this, number 2 pinged out. Now I have 2 of the screws, which just wont reach the thread.
buy two longer bolts to insert and pick up the threads pull the focuser back, then replace the bolts with ypur Bob's Knobs
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On my NEQ6 PRO i use the synscan wi-fi adapter it comes with two Adapter cables nether worked i had to use the hand controller cable, also the ssid it transmitted did not say synscan was cd-*****.
(SSID is the name your device sees when it scans)On your laptop you will need "Windows program: SynScan Pro App, Version 1.19.20" to make the wifi conection
(or Android App: SynScan Pro App, Version 2.0.6 if you want to use your phone to control the mount)When thats all in place take a look at connecting to Stellarium
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I do not have this mount, but my understanding of connecting this to your PC/laptop would require a connection cable from your hand controller
to your PC/laptop. However, you need the correct cable, (using the incorrect cable I believe you risk permanent damage to your mount/handset).
I think it is called a serial communication cable, this cable will have an RJ11 socket on one end and a USB at the PC end and it will have a converter chip somewhere along the cable. Maybe this one
Myself I would use the SynScan Wi-Fi Adapter, once that is plugged in it will emit its own Wi-Fi signal and you just connect to that, saves all the wires.
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I'm sure no one would mind you asking, but it could possbly be more helpful to all if you started a new topic
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Upto 50 per hour i see one and you captured one good job
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Fantastic image well done
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Retapping the theads will only be a temporary fix,
The way these bolts hit the stand adjustment mechanism is forcing the bolts back at a angle instead of striaght back putting a sideways pressure on the threads
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I think this sounds like low battery power to the az gti (but you don't say how you are powing the mount)
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I have the TS-PHOTON 10" f/4 yet to use it as i'm waiting on a Losmandy bar and looking for springs
this thread maybe of some help to you
Pete
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I have got around to finishing this project at last. I changed the motor out for a much slower 10rpm. Included the dew heater into the support ring for the
auto focuser. Got rid of all the switches and are using the remote control (white box in image is the receiver and the tab in front of it is the transmittor)
I know this works up to about 10 meters. As it is remote control I added a clutch in so that I do not break anything when I over run the focuser.
Also hoping to use the same ring to support a dew shield, but that is another project. Just added the post for the time being.
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Should of posted this sooner 3 tips that worked well for me with my 3 d printer
1, Use external mosfetto take the high power away from the main control board for the hot bed and the hot end,
this stops the cheap control boards from burning out2, Use a hot bed sticker on the aluminium hot bed BUT NEVER put your hands/fingers on the sticker, doing so will stop your prints from sticking to the bed, If it needs cleaning use rubbing alcohol ie ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL, I cannot stress how important it is not to get any contaminates from your hands onto the hot bed sticker. It is a real pain. It will cause no end of grief.
3, Stick a mini greenhouse over your 3D printer to give it temperature control, this will help no end on long overnight prints when the temperature in the room is likely to fluctuate.
Pete
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Can't Download RegiStax
in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
Posted
Registax downloads are working fine for me