Wael Hassan

12 hours ago, michael8554 said:

Correct, even I make mistakes sometimes............... :-<

Surely the important part was that the cable looked to be damaged, and was at a crazy angle ?

 

Your image on Sunday, when guiding started to work, showed an ASCOM connection in the Connect Equipment window, and no ST4 cable on the camera !

If that wasn't the setup you actually used, then further attempts by you to frustrate us !

 

Definitely not, they gave similar advice, but you ignored that too.

I'm really glad you have your guiding working. 

Michael

Iam still working on it...i have dec curve making high peaks and the issue of doubled stars come back again.... iam not ignoring u at all i attached a pictureas evidence i followed ur advice ....what should i do further to prove that....anyway thank you 

8 hours ago, malc-c said:

I would have thought my last post was self explanatory, but let me put it another way.  I spent upwards of an hour of my time formulating the last post, listing things in as simple way as I could for a beginner, finding and embedding an old video for you to follow.  Most of the steps were such that we could rule out possible reasons for your poor guiding issue, so forum members, possibly more experienced then me could focus on anything that your reported back.  I even advised you how to take screen captures rather than trying to work things out from rotated photos of the screens which didn't show the full window.   So we all waited here with baited breath to get your response.  To possibly see screen captures of the polar alignment in Sharpcap, or to look at the resultling guide log so we can see for ourselves the values and results PHD2 provided.... But No  You then posted up a new issue in the same thread.  So I (and others that are following the thread) have no idea if you are still having issues with guiding, or if it was resolved and you managed to get a decent result, what the cause was or at which stage of my lengthy list you found the problem.  

Michael is right, you need to think of other members of the forum.  Not just those who have contributed to this thread and posted assistance and suggestions, but to any future member who is having the same issue.  If they read through this they will never discover if the issue was ever resolved, and if it was what you did to resolve it.   Being  a beginner has no bearing on my last post... it's common courtesy that was lacking.  In any post I've made where others suggested I try things, I always reported back if their suggestions mad any difference or not.  It also helps that person making suggestions to get closure, and possibly come up with more suggestions.

Anyway, I said I would not be contributing to this thread any more yet I've added another post.  If you are now successfully guiding, please report that, and if possible detail what it was that fixed the problem, and then create a new thread in the relevant section as suggested by Michael so people can try and assist in helping you out there.

Of course i will post full detailed post about my progress in this autoguiding problem...that is in my plan from.the start....i was following suggestion here until i was shocked by your last reply....any way thank you

8 hours ago, michael8554 said:

I agree with Malcolm, one of the most frustrating posts I've tried to help with.

And it's the same on the PHD2 Forum.

It took forever to get him to remove the ST4 cable.

Start a new Topic for PixinSight help in the "Imaging - Imaging Processing" section.

Just think for once of the other members of this Forum.

If they were looking for other people's experience with PixinSight, why would they look in a thread on PHD2 Autoguiding Problems ?

Michael

 

Most frustrating ?!!!

Anyway ...if u refer to your last comment about the photos i posted here...you pointed to the usb cable and said it was st4 cable while it was the usb cable ....i alrealdy replied to u and confirmed that i had disconnectrd the st4 cable while the cable in the photo u attached is the usb not the st4 ....if you read my topic and replies well, u would get my point that the problem in guiding was in the st4 and also the usb cable ...the guiding didnt start untill i connect both...that was what my problem was....I find also your comment about my posts in phd forum or here  very weird ...is there a problem if i try to find solution for my obstacles in different places ?????

On 03/04/2021 at 20:34, AstroAndy said:

Hi Wael

Generally speaking, yes, after  lot (can;t tell you how many) of sub exposures (roughly between 1-30 minutes, the law of diminishing returns will kick in.

Practically speaking, it also matters how you go about it. While a total 10 hour exposure (10hrs of integration time in, eg, 60x10min) is still 10 hrs., you have to factor in equipment (eg. guiding capability), & sky conditions (eg. shorter sub exposures for brighter sky, and, as was said up there, things like planes and satellite trails).

 

I don't know what you use for stacking, but in DSS (Deepskystacker), if you choose, after registering, the image with the highest value, and set it as the reference frame, all the images will stack to it. If you use a reference frame from a mono camera, shooting in LRGB (say, a luminance one), you can still stack the color ones precisely to it, just uncheck it, keep it as the reference frame and leave it in the stack.

If you wish, you can have a look at this, while this is about CMOS cameras, it's still pretty informative.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RH93UvP358

Andy

 

Hi Astroandy....thanks alot for the link....it was really helpful....Last night i begin my imaging session for IC 4606 and RHO OPHICHUI region.. i made around 40 ×3 minutes exposure slots....i used canon 200 D with optolong l pro filter and Redcat 51 scope....i am using skywatcher eq 35 mount... I am doing strectching now for the stacked photo....But the colors still not appeared now for the nebulas .

On 01/04/2021 at 08:55, JSeaman said:

Exposure time varies depending on your target and equipment. If you are running a 'dumb' mount just tracking then you may be limited to something like 1-2 minutes. If you are guiding then you will likely to be able to get longer exposures (typically something between 5 and 30 minutes). 

People don't tend to do more than 10 minutes most of the time for a number of reasons such as aeroplanes / mount issues / clouds etc. spoiling a lot of data and the fact that this will normally give you all the detail you need

If you are shooting something really bright like M42, you may only want 1-5 minutes and you will also likely want some much shorter (between 3 and 60s) exposures on the core

The stacking software should deal with field rotation no problem

Thank you....i found star alignment in pixinsight and it helps me 😊

4 hours ago, malc-c said:

You know what really peeves me about this thread is we spend ages typing up suggestions and offering advice to resolve your guiding issue.  We ask for feedback following those suggestions, and request updated guide logs so we can see how thing may have improved.  But instead you post up  a different problem, and now  want help with PixInsight.

As you don't have the courtesy to explain how things went with the suggestions (Mine, Steve's, or David's), and what you did differently, or what you discovered was a probable cause that made it work,  I'm out of here and won't be contributing anymore to this topic.  It's a two way thing, we provide suggestions, or request screen shots or log files and you need to provide feedback so we can work with you. 

Sorry if this is blunt, and I wish you well with your journey down the imaging path, but I've already put enough of my time in to this.

I dont know what i did wrong to get this angry reply.... I notrd from start of this thread that i am totally beginner....things that you may consider very simple and logic maybe so difficult for me to get it .... i shared with u all information i could have....i even attach pictures for my implementation to your ( Steve - David - Budgie) advices and if you refer to your last respond it was about my picture and aligning RA axis to the leg of tripod....so i wander why you said that i dont share anything with you..... i Put my screenshot for stacking of image because i was so happy that i finally get a nice image with good guiding because of your advice... so i want it to share with you and let you know what i am through now....Any way you were a great help and support to me....i really appreciate all your advice and follow up with me ....Thank you Malc- c

Hello ,

Iam still newbie for imaging sky....I have done  imaging session yesterday for IC 4606 and RHO OPHICHUI region.. i made around 40 ×3 minutes exposure slots....i used canon 200 D with optolong l pro filter and Redcat 51 scope....i am using skywatcher eq 35 mount... I am doing strectching now for the stacked photo....But the colors still not appeared now for the nebulas .

I have done good session yesterday for IC 4606 and RHO OPHICHUI region.. i made around 40 ×3 minutes exposure slots....i am doing strectching now for the stacked photo....But the colors still not appeared now for the nebulas .

3 hours ago, Budgie1 said:

I questioned the alignment of the home position in the photo below because the weight bar looks angled to the West, when compared to the front leg of the tripod. I asked if this was a photo of the mount in it's Home Position. If it was, I suggested setting the home position again (video link provided which uses a spirit level for the process) and suggested marking the DEC & RA axis so the home position can be found without relying on the setting rings. 

 

Thanks for the video i followed the steps and here is the shape of tripod now ...its still away alittle but better than the first look.... I dont understand the Marking of Home position...could u explain it more ? 

4 hours ago, davies07 said:

Hi Wael,

I'm not sure what you are doing here. What are you trying to align with the spirit level? Are you adjusting the elevation of the RA axis to your latitude?

I can see you have a cover over the polar scope. Have you tried using that to polar-align the mount? It would be an interesting check. You should be able to get an app for your phone that will show you where Polaris should be relative to the polar scope graticule.

I thought this screen grab might be of interest:

This is a screen grab from my last evening out. I've labelled the controls on the left of the graph. As you can see, you can make the graph look smoother by changing the scales 🙂

The guiding performance figures are the metrics I normally monitor. As you can see here, my RA guiding is suffering because of the arrival of clouds. We get a lot of clouds.

In the list of items to be plotted under 'Settings' you will see 'Star mass' and 'Star SNR'. Star SNR (signal to noise ratio) is marked by the white line at the top of my plot and it is a measure of the clarity of the guide star. I find it a useful metric since it will reduce if there are clouds or other obstructions.

I take Malc's point about people having successful guiding solutions using your equipment and finder scopes, which also have short focal lengths. Indeed, I used to use a finder scope myself when I started. So, I remain puzzled by the noisy nature of your guiding results. I wonder if you are looking over a landscape that has been heated by the daytime Sun and is producing poor seeing in the night sky by thermals rising off the hot ground. If so, you would see a lot of star 'twinkle' which is an indication of poor 'seeing'.

Good luck on your next time out.

D

 

This is excellent explaining for PHD graph ...thanks alot.... i ll try to follow video suggestrd by Budgie and advice from Malc c to make the RA axis aligned with the leg of tripod facing north.

3 hours ago, Budgie1 said:

I questioned the alignment of the home position in the photo below because the weight bar looks angled to the West, when compared to the front leg of the tripod. I asked if this was a photo of the mount in it's Home Position. If it was, I suggested setting the home position again (video link provided which uses a spirit level for the process) and suggested marking the DEC & RA axis so the home position can be found without relying on the setting rings. 

 

Yes it was in the home position and i didnt figure out why the RA is away from the leg of tripod...but it become so after polar alignment adjustment by sharpcap

3 hours ago, malc-c said:

I would certainly be happy with a graph that was on the +/- 4 second scale... 

There is not a lot more to say as the other contributors have already covered things.  As for the PA issues, it could simply be that the guidesope is not 100% parallel to the RA axis.  But that is something you may never get, and you may end up making things worse.  I've covered how I aligned my guide scope with the main camera which got me close enough to 10" alignment.

At least you're getting results this time - well done

Thanks alot for all ur advices...you are a great help and support.... I am trying now to align axis by spirit level but it seems the RA is alityle bit away from the center...maybe the degree circle is not accurate

5 hours ago, michael8554 said:

Alter the PHD2  x:400 setting to give a more spread-out horizontal scale to the graph,

Thank you so much ... but i am still beginner and dont understand the meaning of X: 400 setting 😅 ?!

Iam doing now imaging session and i took some photos to record what i was doing .

I started by making polar al9gnment with sharpcap i got excellent result but i want to say here that the final step in sharpcap alignment is to rotate the RA axis by 90 degrees then make the adjustment untill u get the excellent PA ...after that i returned the RA axis to 0 angle but it gives me Fair PA result so should i depend on the 90 degrees result or the 0 degree result ?

I made new profile in PHD and new cal9bration i got perpendicular axis so i slew to my target which is IC 4606 and start guiding there.... i got the best RA and DEC curves through the last 4 weeks ....i know it may not be good bit its better than any curves i got before....i changet MINMO and Aggression values but i found the default setting is the best for my curves..... i start imaging the exposure was for 3 minutes i got very nice round stars.

1 hour ago, davies07 said:

Hi Wael,

I confess, I find it difficult to follow threads such as this when many suggestions and recommendations are being posted, and you might be making changes to your setup along the way. So, I thought I'd just make a summary of what I've seen in the various posts. By the way, I've had a look at your guiding log using the PHD2 Log Viewer utility, which you can download for free.

So this is what I've observed in the photos and screen shots and these thoughts might trigger a response from others who are trying to help:

You are guiding via EQMOD so are not using an RJ 45 cable between guide camera and mount. That fine. That's the way many of us do it.

You Guiding Assistant screen shot shows a polar alignment error of 3317 arc minutes. This seriously wrong, 55 deg! How are you doing the polar alignment? If this is the PA error, then I think it could account for the poor guiding calibration.

You are using a telescope with 120mm focal length and a guide camera with 3.7um pixels. This gives an image scale in the guide camera of 6.4 arc sec per pixel. This will make the guide stars look small and blocky. rather than fuzzy discs. I assume the guide scope is properly focussed and you can see stars on the PHD screen. 

The high frequency star motion in the Guiding Assistant screen is showing really large values of high frequency star motion. I don't understand this.  

The guiding log confirms your guide telescope focal length of 120mm, pixel scale of 6.45 arc sec per pixel and exposure time of 2.5s

Some suggestions:

You need to look at the polar alignment. The celestial pole is around 30 deg altitude above your northern horizon. The elevation of your RA axis when parked in the home position, should be the same as your latitude - you should be able to get a utility for your phone to measure this by laying your phone on the mount. You can use Scopefocus to do the polar alignment; it works well. If, however, you can't see Polaris, I suggest you set the elevation of the mount as suggested, and then focus on a bright star to the south and and use drift alignment to set the azimuth of the mount. I think PHD has a utility to do this. 

I would set the guide camera to be upright in the guide scope when the mount is parked - pointing at Polaris.  I think the cable will then hang vertically down. Once set, you should not move the guide telescope or camera relative to the mount.   

I wouldn't worry about periodic error correction for the moment until you've got basic calibration and guiding working properly. But when you come to it, EQMOD will do it automatically for you.

 Finally, here is a screen-shot from your guiding log which confirms some of these findings:

 

Interestingly, the guiding is converging after doing a Guiding Assist run., but the comment on polar alignment is key, I think.

David

 

 

Thanks David....i use sharpcap for polar alignment and got excellent result...i dont know why it gives me that large error in PA with PHD.

I adjust the usb cable for guide camera as u suggested.

3 hours ago, malc-c said:

OK for now, forget about the periodic error... you need to go back to basics as I suggested.  You need to take each step suggested at a time and confirm that each step works.  Then focus on getting PHD2 tracking.  I would even go as far as suggesting all existing profiles are deleted and you start with a fresh install of PHD2.

Get the calibration right.  Try and work out if the cause is an overly aggressive setting for the pulse guiding in EQMOD.  Oh and please try and confirm or answer the questions we are putting to you, such as I asked for clarity on how you have the camera and mount set up, only to receive half the information...

5m passive cable is on the limit for USB, and I personally will only use 3m passive cables maximum and switch to active at 5m.  The problem might be due to data drop out because of the cable.  For now, try replacing the 5m cables with shorter ones whilst testing.  Presumably another 5m cable is used for the camera, so the same applies.  Once you prove the transmission is OK with the short ones then repeat with the longer ones to confirm that the doo indeed work.

Think of this as a detective story, eliminate the suspects one by one and eventually you'll find the culprit...

Thank you and i am sorry i thought i answered all questions....i connect the Camera to pc by usb cable and the mount to pc by usb cable ....i use eqmod to move the mount ....i create a profile in phd according to phd best practice.... tonight i ll delete all profiles and use shorter cable and start again

10 minutes ago, michael8554 said:

From the GuideLog, the good news :

You have Guiding selected.

The selected Guide Rates are 9.5arcsec/sec, which is fine.

You eventually started Calibrating at around Dec=0,   Dec = -62 and Dec = -54 are not necessary when you have an ASCOM connection.

The bad news:

To emphasise what Malcolm has shown, your Calibration axis are almost opposite each other, instead of at 90 degrees to each other.

So every RA move is echoed in the Dec axis and vice-versa.

Guide Assistant reported PA error to be 26arcmins - did you improve that ?

PA figures during guiding attempts varied widely, but with the poor Cal it's hard to say what the real figures were.

Reported guide speeds are 23 to 27 arcsec/sec (although the mount is set to 9.5), which means Calibration is in only 4 steps instead of 12, the guide rate in EQMOD needs adjusting I'd guess.

I'm not a EQMOD or ST4 user, so I'm not sure why you have a ST4 connection on the guidecam when ASCOM guiding - is that necessary ?

Looks like that ST4 cable is about to snap, and may already have broken connections:

Rotate the guidecam so that the ST4 and USB sockets are at the bottom, and tie the cables in a smooth loop to the main scope, and a larger loop to the top of the tripod.

PHD2 will compensate in Cal for the "upside down" guidecam.

UNTIL YOU GET A GOOD CALIBRATION IT IS POINTLESS TRYING TO GUIDE.

I gather that Williams Optics make quality scopes, but their scope mounts are an engineering disaster.

Michael

I disconnect the st4 cable.... whats shown in the pic u attached is the usb cable and yes u are right ...i should rotate the camera to release the tension in the cable.... I d like to know how to correct the periodic error in my mount ?  ANd how to get perpendicular axis on the guide log .

7 hours ago, malc-c said:

Firstly, that's a nice set up.  With the weight of the guidescope you might find that the balance is close, but I still feel that this may be the issue given the fact the mount seems to be stalling in the southernly direction when trying to calibrate.

I'm not 100% familiar with the newer mounts that have built in USB connection on the synscan controller, but I'm assuming that it provided the same function as an EQDIR cable and allows a PC to control the mount.  If so, having the handset connected as well might have some bearing.

I agree with David, that the traces do appear to be aggressive overcorrections, but then I always thought that was the purpose of calibration and running the utility to track the star and work out the optimum values and backlash compensation, both of which you have done.  Maybe change the RA and DEC pulse guiding rates in EQMOD to x0.2 and then see how it goes, and then increase this step by step until the corrections become too aggressive.  You would need to try a calibration between each test  

It's not clear from the images as the cabling is not easy to follow, but it looks like you have some  very long USB cables coiled up by the handset.  If these are 5m passive cables then this can also lead to communication loss.  Can you also confirm that you have a USB cable connected to your computer and the synscan unit, and a separate usb cable from the camera to the computer, or do they connect is some other way?

Just to cover the basics - with the handset connected and the USB lead removed, set the handset to speed 9 and operate the mount in NSEW as far as you can rotate the mount in each axis , taking care when the counterweight is up and the scope down.  If the mount moves OK, then disconnect the handset, connect the USB lead to the computer and launch EQMOD.  set the speed step to 4 and repeat the test, if all goes well then this confirms that EQMOD can control the mount and the custom configuration entered is correct.  The slew speeds should be about the same regardless of if the handset or EQMOD is used.  - This means that the mount is functional and nothing is binding or slipping, or causing the motors to stall.

Then its just a case of playing with the pulse guiding settings in EQMOD and PHD2.  David picked up on your location, which must put Polaris low on the northern horizon.  Maybe using the southern celestial pole may be better.  I don't know if it has any bearing, but maybe EQMOD is expecting the mount to be facing South rather than North given your latitude ?- then again it may not...its not as if the mount is effectively in an ALT / AZ position.

Yes i have 5 M usb cable from mount to my pc.... I have a question here ...is the Pulse guiding the same as guiding rate in mount ? 

7 hours ago, davies07 said:

Your tracking graph looks to me like instability - too much gain for the load. There are short periods where tracking seems to be ok then it takes off, repeatedly making too big a correction and overshooting, then trying to correct that and overshooting in the other direction. My first response would be to turn down the aggression in RA and DEC. Also, make the values of Minmo bigger in both axes, say 0.5 in each axis. This stops the guide software responding to very small errors - currently 0.18, too small.  

I would try the built-in PHD utility Guide Monitor (from memory) under the Tools menu. This turns off the guiding but PHD watches how the mount tracks the sky and monitors the star movement. This takes several minutes to finish but PHD then gives you a readout of your tracking accuracy, backlash and polar alignment. It also gives you a recommended set of settings and will apply then automatically with one click. I find this works well. 

I need to close for tonight. Good luck. Let me know how you get on tomorrow. 

David

Thanks for your advice...i was thinking in the aggression values...i ll try it tonight and come back to u 

4 hours ago, malc-c said:

I'm no expert when it comes to dissecting PHD logs, but this isn't right

 

 

The axis should be at right angles to each other....

This calibration is better, but then you have all these south steps where the mount isn't moving

Looking at the calibration settings it shows the "Assume orthogonal axes = no" - basically from a bit of googling this is to do with the association of the RA/DEC axis and camera axis - 

Reading up on this error this is what the PHD2 website has to say

 

I think you need to possibly go back to basics and disconnect all the equipment.  Check the balance and centre of gravity of the set up.  Ensure the mount moves smoothly in all directions with no binding or has any backlash (if you lock the axis does the scope still move slightly). 

Ensure your guide scope is lined up with the same optical axis of the main scope.  Point the scope at a bright star and centre it in the field of view of the main camera - have the mount tracking at sidereal rate.  Then use sharpcap or similar application that may have came with the guide camera  to centre the same star in the centre of the  image the guide camera is seeing.  Now use the directional buttons on the handset or EQMOD to move the mount north and watch the motion of the star in both cameras.  If the guide scope image moves at a different angle to the main camera, then rotate the camera until the images move in the same direction, ie if the star moved directly up in the main camera image, then it should do the same in the guide scope image.   

Now polar align the mount.  Sharpcap has an excellent utility for doing this using the guidescope or main scope if the camera has live views. - Its worth the £12 annual cost.

Having confirmed that the mount has no major backlash issues, the cameras are aligned and the scope is perfectly balanced including the centre of gravity then load up just PHD2 .  Connect it to the mount using ASCOM, and the camera.  So now all you have running is EQMOD (ASCOM) and PHD2.  Set the slew rate to 4 in EQMOD and then use the NSWE buttons to locate a suitable start, ideally on the meridian and near the celestial equator - IE south.  

Clear any previous profiles in PHD2, have logging enabled and enable the calibration.  Hopefully you should see a nice set of steps at 90 degrees to each other and guiding will start.  Let it guide for  30 - 40 minutes.   If you still have issues then post up the log files again 

Now like I stated, I'm no expert, and certainly not in PHD2, but the above would be how I would approach the problem.  Hopefully some of the more experienced imagers might jump in and offer their assistance.

 

 

How could i solve the backlash or the periodic error ? Forgive me if i asked silly questions as i am still beginner and i have no one here either astro friend or astroshop in my country to give me advice about these issues 😊

4 hours ago, malc-c said:

Heck, I've just looked that up.... the scope is tiny..... and only weights 1.5kg.   I think the issue you have is that you can't balance that small mass on the EQ35-M.  The counterweight may be right to the top of the weight bar and it still have issue as each one weighs 3.4kg.

Skywatcher do a 1.8kg weight - £42 form FLO (but out of stock)

But i use only one and i could balance it by getting to counterweight to the top of the bar.

1 hour ago, davies07 said:

Hello,

I'm rather late to this topic so forgive me if I ask some dumb questions.

Wael, I can see from your EQMOD screen that you are located somewhere in the Middle East (30 deg N, 31 deg E)  and your scope is pointed somewhere towards Polaris. 0 deg AZ, 30 deg alt, I hope you are not trying to calibrate your guiding with the scope pointing in that direction.

Assuming your scope is polar aligned -  Scopefocus has a great utility for polar aligning your mount - you should calibrate your mount with the scope pointing south and upwards towards the celestial equator, Hydra, for example. 

 

David

Yes i wws doing it near polaris and i discovered it was wrong but i still have problem with guiding ....the RA curve has zigzag rough curve as in this picture 

4 hours ago, malc-c said:

Can you please post up a photo of how you have set up your scope and mount - nice wide shot of the tripod, mount and scope so we can see what you are using 

Sure here are the photos....by the way i just remove the center plate that support the three legs because i want to transfer the mouny when i took the photos....also i dont use the st4 cable during my last imaging ...i disconnect it from the mount.

On 08/04/2021 at 14:50, michael8554 said:

A GuideLog would show what is going on, but a couple of guesses:

If your RA and Dec Errors are markedly different, then RA or Dec is significantly shifting during exposures.

Similar RA and Dec errors means guiding was good, but on a guidestar that was shifting due to a loose guidescope.

Or guiding was just rubbish.

Michael

 

This is my guidelog : 

https://openphdguiding.org/logs/dl/PHD2_logs_fFq6.zip

On 08/04/2021 at 13:17, malc-c said:

In that image of the camera screen it seems that all stars are elongated, but the fainter stars haven't left traces as the scope moved, which would suggest that the movement between the start of the exposure and the end may not have been linier.  It's like the exposure started, tracking started, and then tracking advanced slightly at a faster rate on one axis and then resumed at the end of the exposure.  The fact the fainter stars didn't register the short distance gives the impression the exposure is of double stars.  I've seen similar when the backlash in the mount hasn't been taken up after a slew.

Can you confirm your scope is fully balanced?   In this old but useful video explains the issue of balance and CogG

I'll also try and remote into the observatory PC and take some screenshots of my set up which may help

 

I balance my mount and scope always .... i use bubble level to balance the RA aziz at 90 angle then return it to home position at 0 angle. Also the same for DEC axis .

I was thinking in the RA and DEC aggression values at my PHD profile