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Posts posted by Ollyb
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I’m just about to take delivery of a William Optics GT71 and Flat6A iii 0.8 Reducer…
The plan is to attach my 2600mm Pro, a 16.5mm Adapter, M54M-M48F adapter and 2” EFW giving a total spacing of 56mm (as per ZWO guidance)…
Has anyone used this combination and, if so, what setting did you end up with on the adjustable Flat6A iii?
Also, where did the focusing tube roughly end up for focus?
I know I’ll have to spend some time on the next clear night to get it perfectly sorted out but just wondered about a ‘starting position’…
Many Thanks
Olly
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Stunning image 👍🏻
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I have a Redcat 51 and use the ASI 1600mm Pro to take advantage of the wide and flat field of view offered by this beautiful OTA…
I did consider the ASI 183mm Pro to get better resolution and detail but then you pay the price of a cropped image…
Its a decision between widefield or more detail really…
To be honest I’ve had great results with the 1600mm Pro and the Redcat 51 (see below)
I have an Esprit 100ed and 2600mm Pro for detailed and ‘closer’ Astrophotography so I guess it wouldn’t make sense to use the Redcat with the 183mm Pro for me…
Hope that helps…
Recat 51/ASI 1600mm Pro… Optolong 6.5nm Ha …
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Pixinsight is absolutely worth the investment, my Astro images have gone from being acceptable to a whole new level since I started using PI…
Compared to the cost of a telescope imaging rig Pixinsight is actually cheap and surely the whole aim is to produce stunning images…
I love how images evolve in Pixinsight, it’s literally a stunning piece of software for astrophotographers…
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I agree with all the above, Pixinsight is now my ‘go to’ processing software.
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I’ve just started using Pixinsight after seeing the results other propel have achieved, it’s a whole different concept to Photoshop and seems to be far less destructive of faint data…
Here is my best attempt at NGC7000 in Photoshop and then in Pixinsight… They are totally complementary to each other but I’m loving the results from Pixinsight, especially the ability to see faint detail…
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I have my ASIAIR Pro connected to a Nevada 12v PSU, which provides up to 25 amps, it has an ammeter...
I use the PSU to provide power to the ASIAIR Pro and Mount (AZ-EQ6 GT Pro) separately...
With ASIAIR powering the following...
ASI1600mm Pro with cooling set to -20C
Two dew heaters from one 12v port (set at 100%) through the ZWO splitter cable
ASI120mm Mini
EAF
EFW
The ASIAIR draws 3 amps
With the mount slewing at maximum speed the whole setup draws 4.5 amps.
You could theoretically run everything through the ASIAIR Pro but that would be a bad idea in my opinion to make the unit work that hard...
I was running the rig (as above) through 2 separate Lynx Astro PSUs, each rated at 5 amps it worked great but I just wanted the reliability and voltage control from the Nevada Power Unit (regulated 13.8v)...
I also use Lynx Astro silicon cables...
Hope that helps
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On 17/05/2021 at 10:08, Scooot said:
I think Plan has been added in the last update, I haven’t looked at that yet.
Plan is in the latest update, along with multiple star guiding.
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3 hours ago, peter shah said:
love the Field of View, we don't often see the whole extent of the elephant trunk.
Presumably you have used the standard HST Palette?. The H-alpha in this object will always overwhelm the SII and OIII. Try not to push the Ha so much and try to allow to the SII and OIII come through a little more....Colour balance on narrow band is always a personal thing and is very different to colour balancing RGB as the ratios are so much further away. Plus objects vary as to how much SII and OIII they have in them.
1 hour ago, newbie alert said:Think the data is all there , try the selective colour to balance and bring out those golds
Thanks for the advice, I think this is more like it... I do have a lot more Oiii and Sii data to gather...
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That is stunning
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48 minutes ago, Astro Caller said:
Are you using masks? you need to sperate the background, stars and nebulosity and make adjustments, on this image you have clipped the dark reference removing data from the image
Yes, I know the image has lost some data, it’s work in progress on the Heart Nebula...
Believe it or not, I used Star Reduction here!...
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6 minutes ago, Astro Caller said:
No worries, I always use WeTransfer to send files, i don't use photoshop for main processing, just final touch ups, all my main processing is done in Pixinsight, but this image looks really good, nicely balanced, low noise
The red colour image was made with virtually just Ha as I have yet to collect sufficient Oiii and Sii to make a’ balanced’ RGB image... so it will be much better eventually.
I guess using a mono camera does make a big difference, I only need to use Darks to get rid of amp noise and I also use AstroFlat Pro in Photoshop but, actually, could probably not bother. This narrowband image is produced almost entirely from the above Ha Stack...
Good luck with reducing those stars!
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1 hour ago, CloudMagnet said:
Dont forget Topaz DeNoise as well, bit expensive on first glance but you can do a free trial as well. Works great to remove "static" noise but I think ensuring you dither in RA and DEC will get rid of any walking noise as well.
Yes, forgot to mention Dither helps a lot with noise
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Hi...
I’ve just imaged IC1396 with a similar setup to yours except I use an ASI1600MM Pro...
After reading various forums about calibration frames I decided not to use Bias frames and, as I keep my camera sensor permanently attached to a filter wheel, I don’t use flats. I used 18 x 420 sec exposure at 200 gain and used 20 Darks and got great results. I know you are using a OSC camera but maybe this will help...
Ha frames x 18 after stacking...
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My next target with the Redcat, beautiful work 👍🏻
Dark shark & Wolf's Cave Nebula
in Imaging - Deep Sky
Posted
Nice work 👍🏻