GHOSTGOJ

10 minutes ago, Tomatobro said:

I am no expert on RPi but I once got into a similar position with other software and I made a note of this......

 

Type the following command:

sudo raspi-config

Then, use your arrow keys to navigate to Enable Boot to Desktop and press enter. Select the Desktop login option and press enter.

Reboot

worth a try

That't brilliant, just gave it a try and worked. Thank you for the help👍

George 

Hello, 

recently got a raspberry pi 4 for my astrphotography and have flashed astroberry onto it. i had a good look around and found a setting with i thought would make it headless but has just made me incredibly confused. I have attached an image of the problem, where i got rid of the desktop without realising what it would do. 

My question is, does anyone know the commands to return this to the desktop of astroberry?

Cheers,

George 

4 hours ago, Davey-T said:

Flats look a bit weird on screen when taking them but look ok colour converted.

Dave

That puts my mind at ease👍, it’s interesting how it can look every questionable straight out of the camera and then normal once processed a bit 

cheers for the help

george

11 minutes ago, Davey-T said:

Looks pretty much like my flats with ZWOASI2600MC and Optolong LeNhance filter, mine are purple on one edge and green on the other.

Dave

Is is just something that you just deal with or have found ways of fixing it?

George

hello,

I have been imaging the California nebula and found that there was a large gradient in the final image. I have now taken some flat frames for the setup and found that the gradient was in all of the photos and took up about 1/3 of the sensor space. 
 

I have attached an image of a flat frame to show the issue. 
 

I am currently using a skywatcher esprit 100ed with my ASI 294 MC PRO. Between the two of them are, field flattened, ZWO OAG, 2 spacers and ontology l-enhance filter. I have checked down the objective and can see no issues with the alignment up to the filter. All threads are screwed in correctly with a snug fit, and there are no massive pieces of debris covering the objective.

need help ASAP please.

cheers,

george

Just now, david_taurus83 said:

As I thought, the gain is indeed set at 0. The info is stored in the FITS header. This will be stored in every image you take, kinda like a list of details for every image. I used Pixinsight to open it but there is a free program called FITS Liberator that will let you preview the image and also review the FITS header info.

 

Yes, setting a higher gain will amplify the signal, in layman terms. Like turning the volume up so to speak. I think 120 is unity gain for your camera which without going into it too much is basically the best all round gain for that camera. Give it a try next time your out.

 

 

 

Cheers for the help, I usually have it set to 120 but was slacking for this run. It's a real pain trying not having the gain either in the name of the file or indeed the easily visable metadata of the file when viewed in properties. 

Having said all that, your help has been greatly appreciated and i hope you get some clear skies soon! (Weather permitting)

3 minutes ago, david_taurus83 said:

I would hazard a guess and say your gain was set to 0 by mistake. Can you upload a single uncalibrated sub?

Here is one of the subs. 

Just a quick question - if the gain was set to 0 woudl that explain the lack of actual nebulocity within the final stacked image?

Light_pleiades_60s_Bin1_0003.fit

11 minutes ago, david_taurus83 said:

Aha! What gain?! What software did you use?

The aquisition was done with an asiair pro, with gain either 120 or 0. I don't remember which one it was as i set it to 0, then power went out resetting settings (i think) and then i took the images. 

as far as stacking is concerned, i used deepskystacker with the dark frames. I however have now restacked the image but idk if thats going to make a difference or not.

58 minutes ago, david_taurus83 said:

I've had a go at this in Photoshop as well and I have to say, I've never stretched an image so much and not reveal anything! I've brought it into Pixinsight and the background level hardly changes even if I hover the cursor over where there should be nebulosity. What camera did you use? 1 minute subs and 3 hours worth should easily bring it out. Its a very bright target.

I used the ASI 294mc pro so cooled to -20 degrees C so the camera itself shouldn't be a problem, or atleast i would hope not

Hi there,

Took about 3 hours of data in 1 minute subs (unguided bc mount decided to be difficult) and cannot for the life of me process the data to give an image that actually shows off the nebula decently 

I have attached the unedited stacked image with darks, no bias or flats. I have photoshop and lightroom for my image editing, although i have been thinking about purchasing pixinsight. 

It would be interesting to see how others process their data so i can make changes to my work flow for producing good quality deep sky images. 

If anyone has any good software ideas then plz lmk as photoshop isn't proving to be the 'be all and end all' of image processing.

pleiadesgoodimage.TIF