astroenthusiast

On 25/04/2022 at 17:42, Bibabutzemann said:

Flaming Star Nebula captured in February.

I collected 12 hours of data with the L-Extreme Filter and only 1.5 hours of RGB for the stars.

Equipment: 130PDS+EOS1200D+MPCC3+EQ3 Pro

Processed in Siril+Photoshop

 

 

Very nice work!

Beautiful! 

On 05/12/2021 at 17:42, CCD-Freak said:

I captured M78 during the new moon in November with an ASI-533MCP through a SharpStar 150 mm F2.8 Hyper Newt from my SRO site near Paducah, TX

How long was the exposure on this image??

Nice! Hope to see astroimages from you soon!

On 23/03/2021 at 10:03, emyliano2000 said:

Blast from the past.

2 years ago, when I got the Samyang 135mm f2 lens, I couldn't wait for the winter to come so I can shoot Orion widefield.
Well I did shoot it but I forgot about the data and 2 days ago when I decided to redo some of my 135mm work I stumbled upon this untouched data and I went to work 😁

Details and full resolution on my astrobin account  https://www.astrobin.com/5i2906/?nc=user

Emil

Simply amazing!! Beautiful!!

Fantastic shot!!

On 13/03/2021 at 14:19, Clarkey said:

WRT to 30%, yes I realise in theory it is just the same plus 10%. In reality I'm not sure the prices have dropped enough to compensate.

Getting back to the question at hand, for the money you want to spend I would certainly look at the Newtonian route. F5 or F6 are pretty easy to collimate - only takes a couple minutes to check on set up. It's just another task on the tick list. I have just re-collimated my 200P from scratch (secondary removed) and it took 10 minutes to get it 'perfect'.

I also have a Stella Lyra RC8 which I do like for imaging although it is F8. So far I have accepted the collimation as it is - OK but not perfect. I will collimate it in the summer when 'galaxy season' is over. Given the horror stories I hear about getting them set up right it might be in the 'Buy and Sell' section come the autumn!

Like the cupboard full of stuff and bank account empty! Sounds familar...😂

Just now, astroenthusiast said:

That is exactly what is happening to me! I have N.I.N.A and APT, but don't use them. Guess, I need to get use to them, the learning curve. I still haven't figured out how to get N.i.N.A to show live vieiw yet. I appreciate the insights!

Youre images are really great! I'm out imaging a few DSO now. Less than an hour an the sky will get bright. I'm going to make my darks in 30 minutes, bias and try to work on my flats. Thanks again for the tips! I'll watch my gain, exposure and camera temperature too when calibrating images. Let's stay in touch please. 

1 hour ago, Grant Fribbens said:

I use the beta of APT or the latest nightly build of N.I.N.A and I found that when I ran SharpCap on my imaging camera I remember that I altered the brightness setting to see the image better and that really threw off my settings as it alters offset and gain. In APT and N.I.N.A. you can now make sure that the gain and offset are always sent to the camera prior to imaging which I have found really helps. I remember I used a gain of 111 on my ASI183MC and all my Darks were 111 and then one day I found that my gain had gone back to 100 and I was still using the 111 gain darks which caused some very strange results in APP.

That is exactly what is happening to me! I have N.I.N.A and APT, but don't use them. Guess, I need to get use to them, the learning curve. I still haven't figured out how to get N.i.N.A to show live vieiw yet. I appreciate the insights!

1 minute ago, Grant Fribbens said:

I now use a camera now which has the same sensor as your ASI2600MC Pro camera after upgrading from my trusty ASI183MC. I only use my WO Zenithstar 61 with FLAT 61A at the moment but use the Optolong L-Enhance filter and use Astro Pixel Processor and PS only for my images and they are coming out great. I have found in the past with my ASI183MC if the darks have a different gain and offset as well as temperature then strange things will happen when I stack the lights in APP. Do your individual light frames look green?

Yes, my lights look green. I'm also having a hard time with getting my flats correct. I'm using SharpCap, I'm wondering if that's is one of the issues, Lol!

On 27/02/2021 at 02:40, KEJ said:

Morning

I'm probably not the best person to ask and thank you.

I have a dew shield, connected to the ASIAIR Pro and now, I have started to just collect more data, ie: previously I may have grabbed 30mins to 1hr of data for an object. But, now building on 2 hrs plus, plus  I find shorter exposures don't seem to blow my stars out so much, so I do a mixture.

I also downloaded ASI Studio with a FITS file viewer, in the old days(few months ago) I stacked everything, but now I quickly go through them and delete any with star trails or satellites etc.

I use DSS, then PS, just taking my time, routine in PS initially curves and levels a few times to tease the colours out.

Camera settings pretty much unity gain 101, cooled to -10 degrees or -15 degrees.

 

Tell me what are you currently doing to process your pictures ?

 

Cheers

 

 

Sorry for the delayed response. I'm using Astropixel to process my images and Adobe Photoshop. I'm reviewing Pixinsight but all this software does get expensive.  My camera gains are high at times, anywhere from 200 to 350.  It's going to be a clear night, and I'm anxious to take out my ES ED165mm to capture some great images, the moon also is out tonight. I may try a duo band filter. The camera I'll use tonight is the ASI2600 MC Pro, color camera. I've tried using the Starlight Xpress 825 monochrome CCD camera and filter wheel but it's a bit of a learning curve for me.  Totally diffrent than a CMOS camera, I'm open to any suggestion on the CCD camera. Thank you!

Really fantastic shots!! What processing software are you using? I have the ASI533 MC Pro and ASI2600 MC Pro color camera's, but a few things. One, the ASI533 dews up quite a bit, even with the external dew heater, the ASI2600 when capturing images look green! I'm using Explorer Scientific ED102 and ED165mm APO refractors and a TPO Ritchey Chretien 304.8 mm telescopes. My images are not coming out nearly as fantastic as yours! Any tips, please?

Beautiful!