Liquidtravel

1 hour ago, SamAndrew said:

For a low budget option I'd go for an 8" Newt, Skywatcher F4 or F5, or for a bit more money an Orion Optics one. If the money allows, then I'd get an APO refractor; the SharpStar 140PH looks interesting but a bit of an unknown quantity, and would require you to add the counterweight to the AM5. The Skywatcher Esprits are heavy for their aperture so would push the AM5, and I'd budget for a focuser upgrade. You don't need a long focal length, a Rasa 8 paired with the ZWO 294MM will give you 1"/pp and a good field of view, but getting the spacing and tilt sorted can be a pain. For filters, Antlia seems to be a great balance of price and performance.

Thanks for your thoughts.  I know nothing about Newtonian and was curious why you feel they are more suited for what I am looking for than other types.  Thanks

Hello all,

I have been using the following setup for a while:

• Askar FRA300 Pro 
• ZWO ASI533MC
• Orion 60mm Guidescope
• ZWO ASI178MM Guidecamera
• ZWO EAF
• ZWO AM5 Mount
• ZWO ASIAir Plus

I have had pretty good results overall but I am wanting to consider a new setup to get a little deeper/ and a little bit closer.  I would love some suggestions for a rig with a large aperture, long focal length, and a Monochrome camera and filters.  I would want to use a ZWO EAF, ZWO AM5 Mount, and ZWO ASIAir Plus.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 

8 hours ago, Starwatcher2001 said:

I wonder if you're on a different version of the software. I'm using the StarSense handset and I think you're using the NexStar handset. I thought they were both the same, in terms of how the focuser and motor controls work.

Okay, let's try an experiment. Do can do this during the day of course, no need to lose valuable observing time.

1. Get everything plugged in and running. No need to do any alignment.

2. Press MENU, FOCUSER, MOVE IN/OUT, RATE = 3.

At this point you should be seeing this screen. Is that right?

 

3. You should be able to press the SCROLL buttons to move the focus. Nothing will change on the display, except the POSITION value.

 

4. Now without touching anything else, just try pressing one of the MOVEMENT keys and see what happens.

On mine, the scroll display stays on the screen, but I also get an inverse number in thr top right of the display telling me the speed the motor is slewing. The telescope moves.

 

5. On mine as long as I don't go to another menu option, I can press the MOVEMENT keys to move the scope, and SCROLL buttons to focus, all day long. In fact I can press both at once and the telescope and focus move at the same time. I can also hit "MOTOR SPEED" followed by a number key to change the speed at which the telescope moves.

6. On mine, I can be almost anywhere in any menu, and the MOVEMENT keys will always work, slewing at whatever rate I previously set. Does yours behave like that?

 

7. If you're getting different behaviour, it might be down to a different version of software on your handset.

You can find this out with MENU, HAND CONTROLLER, GET VERSION INFO

There's more information on that screen if you hit the SCROLL DOWN button. (The arrow in the top right gives you a clue about that).

You can find out about software versions here:  https://www.celestron.com/pages/firmware-update-history

Before you go down the track of updating the handset's firmware (which can be a bit chewy), find out (a) what version you are on, and (b) if a newer version of the NexStar software adds this feature as it does on StarSense handsets. It's generally not a good idea to upgrade unless there's a feature or bugfix that you need.

Cheers,

Mark

ok, thanks so much for taking the time.  Just so you know, I am on a NexStar+ Hand Controller.  I went ahead and checked for any firmware updates prior to doing this experiment and I am on HC 5.31.9200/ MC 5.14 5.14 so I think I am good to go, although I am not sure if there are firmware updates for the focus motor itself.  Also, I went ahead and calibrated my focus motor even though I did it just a few days ago and the calibration was successful.  

Steps, 

1. Press MENU

2. Selected FOCUSER

3. Selected MOVE IN/OUT

4. Selected RATE = 3

Now, here is where we differ.  Once I press "enter" at the RATE=3 screen, there are differences in what my screen shows and what is shown in your first picture.   In your first picture, it displays MOVE (Scroll Key) on the top line and then POSITION: 6596 on the second line.  On my screen, it displays Move In/ Out on the top line and then Position on the second line.  There is no number displayed after the word Position like in your picture.  Now having said that, I can use the scroll up/down keys and change focus but I can't use the directional keys to move the scope. 

When I am at this point - showing "Move In/ Out" on the top line and then "Position" on the second line, the only buttons that will work are the scroll up/ down buttons to change focus.  I can't even change motor speed.  The only way to do that is to get out of the focuser menu. 

But, there is another option inside of the Focus Menu called "Move To".  This screen looks a lot more like your picture Top line - Move To, Bottom line - Position: 29633.  Here I can use the directional keys, but, I have to input a specific point of focus.  That might work when I figure out what a good point of focus is but even still, I can't adjust focus using this screen.  I can only input a variable. On this screen however, I can change the motor speed.  

Very odd, it seems like these 2 hand controllers are slightly different.  Even how I get to the Firmware version I am using is different.  I have to go to Utilities and then Version.  Your suggestion may not be possible with my hand controller even though you would think everyone would want that ability.  

Am I missing anything?

On 30/09/2020 at 10:06, Starwatcher2001 said:

Tips for using the Focus Motor

- Select MENU

- Scroll to the FOCUSER option, ENTER

- Scroll down a few times to get to Focus IN/OUT, ENTER

- Focus Speed = 3, ENTER

Now leave the handset as it is and start looking through the eyepiece.

You can still move the scope using the keypad, which you'll quickly learn to do by touch whilst looking through the eyepiece (the motor buttons feel different). To change the speed that the motors move you around, hit MOTOR SPEED (bottom right), and then a number. (I tend to just use 9,6,3, which are easily felt without looking).

You can also still change the focus using the scroll buttons - again by feel, once you get used to it. To change the focus speed, hit BACK (top right), and the 1, 2 or 3.

------------------

On 30/09/2020 at 10:06, Starwatcher2001 said:

Hello Mark,  

I was trying your suggestion above but it was not working for me.  If I am tracking, I have to go to the "focuser" in the menu system right?  I could not do it otherwise.  When I was setting it all up, I tried to manually track and focus and again, I could not do both at the same time, I had to go to "focuser" to focus and back all the way out to move the scope.  Any thoughts on what I might be doing wrong?

On 30/09/2020 at 10:06, Starwatcher2001 said:

 

 

 

A question that comes to mind though.  Once my scope is aligned and setup properly, what happens if the tracking pad gets bumped and the scope is moved.  Do you have to realign?

On 30/09/2020 at 10:06, Starwatcher2001 said:

 

Tips for using the Focus Motor

- Select MENU

- Scroll to the FOCUSER option, ENTER

- Scroll down a few times to get to Focus IN/OUT, ENTER

- Focus Speed = 3, ENTER

Now leave the handset as it is and start looking through the eyepiece.

You can still move the scope using the keypad, which you'll quickly learn to do by touch whilst looking through the eyepiece (the motor buttons feel different). To change the speed that the motors move you around, hit MOTOR SPEED (bottom right), and then a number. (I tend to just use 9,6,3, which are easily felt without looking).

You can also still change the focus using the scroll buttons - again by feel, once you get used to it. To change the focus speed, hit BACK (top right), and the 1, 2 or 3.

You can practice this during the day, and I promise you, within a few minutes you'll be able to do this with your eyes closed (except the bit where you look through the eyepiece 🤣)

Most importantly: enjoy yourself, and come back with any other questions you might have.

Mark

 

 

Thanks so much for this part Mark.  This is what was taking me the longest as I kept going all the way back in the menu system and then starting over each time. 

 

On 30/09/2020 at 01:08, toshapetriji said:

It's normal for the the moon and planets to move out of the field of view quickly as you describe when manually tracking. Get the focus right first then with your eye at the eyepiece you should be able keep the target in the field of view with the controller. Adjust the slew rate to help make this easier.

 

Or align the telescope and let the tracking take care of it for you.

I was able to get the moon in focus and track it.  It was amazing how much detail I could see.  Mars was another story.  I was using too high a magnification eyepiece (9mm) and it was always gone before I could get it in focus.  Again, I was just excited and wanted to try out the scope before learning how to use the scope :).  I plan on aligning the scope and letting it track but again, just wanted to try it quickly. 

On 29/09/2020 at 22:01, cletrac1922 said:

First of all welcome from Land Down Under

With the 9mm eyepiece, and scope not tracking, then will go out of focus very quickly

Did you do a two star alignment prior to going to Mars or the moon

With the moon, your 25mm eyepiece is ideal, as will fit in the whole moon, where using your 9mm will only get partial view

I use either a 15mm and 17mm for planets and other DSO with both my 10'' flex Dob, and ED80 on EQ5pro mount

You can also use a lunar filter to bring out more detail of the moon, and a red filter to highlight the polar caps on Mars

Mars is closest to earth on the 6th October, than it will be in the next 15 years

 

John

 

 

 

Hello John,  No, I not do any alignment.  I just got the scope a few days ago and just wanted to look at the moon.  I had not even gone through the manual yet.  I just wanted to check out the moon.  Now I am going through the manual and will properly set it all up.  I was just curious if what I was experiencing was normal for manual focus, no tracking.  thanks.  

Hello all.  I am brand new to star gazing and wanted to get some advice or thoughts on what I was experiencing on my first attempt using my scope.  I have a Celestron NexStar 8SE with a focus motor.  I was also using both a 25mm and 9mm eyepieces just to see the difference.  The moon was big and bright and so was mars.   I was only using manual tracking with my red dot finder as well manual focus.    

The one thing that was frustrating once I aligned my scope on either Mars or the moon was how fast they left the frame.  It didn't matter which eyepiece I was using it just seemed that they were only in the frame a few seconds.  The way it went down made me feel like my tracking was moving them off even though I was doing everything manually.  As I said, this was my first night out so I was trying to learn the telescope at the same time as observing.  So, once I would get the moon or mars in the frame, I would have to go to the hand controller, go to focuser, and then focus.  By the time I got to the right function,  Mars was long gone from the frame.  I would have to move Mars to the far edge of the frame to give myself enough time to get to the right function to be able to use it but I still didn't have enough time to get focus by the time it was gone.  The moon was much easier because it was so big but when I put it dead center, by the time I got it in focus, only a portion was still in view but at least it was in focus and then I could go back to tracking and move it back and it would still be in focus as well.  

Anyway, the moon was awesome.  Big, Bright and Clear.  

Sorry if this is not all clear.

Thank you all very much.  Doing a little more research, I am not considering these lenses: 

• Celestron X-Cel LX 9mm (1.25") - High Power Eyepiece ($89 - already purchased)
  • Magnification - 225x
  • Exit Pupil - 0.9
  • AFOV - 60°
  • TFOV - 0.2666°
• Explore Scientific - 70º Series - 15mm (1.25") - Medium-High Power Eyepiece ($50)
  • Magnification: 135x
  • Exit Pupil: 1.5mm
  • AVOF: 70°
  • TVOF: 0.52° 
• Explore Scientific - 70º Series - 20mm (1.25") - Medium-Low Power Eyepiece ($60)
  • Magnification: 102x
  • Exit Pupil: 2mm
  • AVOF: 70°
  • TVOF: 0.69° 
• Celestron's 25mm E-Lux Series Plossl Eyepiece ($1.25") - Medium-Low Power Eyepiece ($35 - already purchased)
  • Magnification - 81x
  • Exit Pupil - 2.5
  • AFOV - 50°
  • TFOV - 0.6172°
• Explore Scientific - 70º Series - 30mm (1.25") - Low Power Eyepiece ($120)
  • Magnification: 68x
  • Exit Pupil: 3mm
  • AVOF: 70°
  • TVOF: 1.03° 
• Explore Scientific - 70º Series - 35mm (1.25") - Low Power Eyepiece ($150)
  • Magnification: 58x
  • Exit Pupil: 3.5mm
  • AVOF: 70°
  • TVOF: 1.21° 

2 of the above will come when the kit arrives in a couple of months and the rest I will buy over the 6 months afterwards as I learn more about what I am doing and what I need.  It might change but that is my thinking at the moment.

What is the biggest advantage to moving up to a 2" eyepiece?  Is it worth moving up to a 2" sooner rather than later?  Also, do they  make a focal reducer for a 2"?

I have considered the wedge as well but that will come only after I learn what I need to learn and still feel like it is the right option over getting another scope or getting an EQ mount.  

thanks again everyone. 

9 hours ago, Shimrod said:

I thought stargps might have been able to help. They do make cables to connect handheld GPS units to telescope handsets, but looking at their website it seems this is only available for Meade handsets. It might we worth getting in touch to see if they are able to do anything on a custom basis, but otherwise looks like you will have to get a dedicated GPS unit.

The alternative is to use Skyportal or similar via a tablet or phone to control your telescope. You will need to buy a wifi unit, but the Skyportal wifi adaptor is a lot cheaper than the GPS unit. The telescope will then take location and time from your tablet/phone.

Thank you very much for finding that site.  I did reach out to see if they have a cable that will work.  I think you are right however, doesn't look like they have exactly what I need but you never know.  

thanks again. 

1 hour ago, Louis D said:

I would error toward 60 to 70 degree eyepieces.  You'll probably find that 52 degree eyepieces feel very constrictive.  Since you have an f/10 telescope, there are quite a few affordable wide field eyepieces.

That is a great point.  I was also looking at the Baader Hyperion Eyepiece line.  They are 68 degrees and reasonably priced. 

I am considering the lenses below to go along with my first telescope.  Not all of them at first but over the next 6 months.  I wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts or have used these lenses, I would especially appreciate their thoughts.  Also, I would not get both the 8 and 9 mm, just one or the other.  They will be used with a Celestron NexStar 8SE telescope.  

• Tele Vue Plossl 8mm Eyepiece (1.25") - High Power Eyepiece ($96)
  • Magnification - 254x
  • Exit Pupil - 0.8
  • AFOV - 50°
  • TFOV - 0.1969°
• Celestron X-Cel LX 9mm (1.25") - High Power Eyepiece ($89)
  • Magnification - 225x
  • Exit Pupil - 0.9
  • AFOV - 60°
  • TFOV - 0.2666°
• Explore Scientific 52° 15mm Eyepiece (1.25") - Medium-High Power Eyepiece ($80)
  • Magnification - 135x
  • Exit Pupil - 1.5052
  • AFOV - 52°
  • TFOV - 0.3852°
• Explore Scientific 20mm 52° Series Eyepiece (1.25") - Medium-Low Power Eyepiece ($80)
  • Magnification - 101x
  • Exit Pupil - 2.0119
  • AFOV - 52°
  • TFOV - 0.5149°
• Celestron's 25mm E-Lux Series Plossl Eyepiece ($1.25") - Medium-Low Power Eyepiece (included with Kit)
  • Magnification - 81x
  • Exit Pupil - 2.5
  • AFOV - 50°
  • TFOV - 0.6172°
• Explore Scientific 30mm 52° Series Eyepiece (1.25") - Lower Power Eyepiece ($125)
  • Magnification - 67x
  • Exit Pupil - 3.0328
  • AFOV - 52°
  • TFOV - 0.7761°

Thanks so much.

Hello all,

I know that Celestron has a GPS that works with the 8SE but I already have a highend Garmin GPS.  Is there any way to use my Garmin GPS.  It is a Garmin GPSMap 66st which is wi-fi and bluetooth compatible.  It also has a micro USB port.  I am thinking it is not possible but thought I would ask.  I did a cursory look online but didn't find anything that indicated this was possible.  

thanks

OK, thanks for that.  The 9mm does not come with the kit.  I bought it separately.  If there is a better lens for a beginner let me know.  At first, I thought this might be a good lens to start with but let me know your thoughts on it.  I had also found a Explorer Scientific 82 degree 14mm that I was curious about.  

So do you feel that the 9mm is a good first option outside of the 25mm that comes with the kit?

2 minutes ago, John said:

A 1.6mm eyepiece will be totally impractical with a scope such as an 8 inch schmidt-cassegrain. It will produce far too much magnification to show any sort of decent image of anything, planet or otherwise.

A 7mm eyepiece would be the shortest focal length that would be useful.

The planets do look small with scopes, even at high magnifications.

 

OK, thank you.  OK, I will just let it all stay the way it is and wait for it to get here.  Once I get it all, I will learn as much as I can and go from there.  Thanks everyone. 

1 minute ago, Cosmic Geoff said:

I think you need to sit down and decide what you want to do, and then think about buying gear that does it.

The C8 SE is a fine visual scope outfit that will show you a lot. And it is quick to set up - you can carry the whole assembled  kit outside in one go. But if you try to do imaging with it you wil start to run into trouble.  The C8 OTA is well suited to planetary imaging, and you can accomplish this with the SE mount. But after a while you will start wishing for a more solid and better behaved mount...

I think that cancelling the X-xel LX 9mm eyepiece could be a mistake. I have one and it works well enough for looking at planets. (Ideally you want a range of several eyepieces, or a zoom). This scope is f10 so there is no need to buy exotic expensive eyepieces unless you have to have the best, and money is burning a hole in your pocket. An 8mm eyepiece is the shortest focal length that will see much use.

If you want to do imaging you will need another outfit dedicated to that task. And planetary and DSO imaging have different requirements. Expensive requirements, in both cases.

Thank you for your thoughts.  The reason I was thinking about cancelling the LX 9mm and going with the Vixen 1.6mm was due to what I saw on this site - http://astronomy.tools/.  Based on setting the parameters to CES 8 scope and the LX 9mm, some of the outer planet seem to be barely visible.  But, according to that same tool, using the Vixen 1.6 mm eyepiece with this scope would allow me to have a decent view out to Saturn and Uranus and Neptune were ok as well.  Now, I have no idea if that tool is accurate at all and in fact these magnifications are accurate or not so that is a big question. 

52 minutes ago, Richie092 said:

Another way to look at it is - You have ordered yourself a great visual set up there in my humble opinion. Over time, you can build up a second outfit from value second hand purchases for AP and keep using your Nexstar for visual.

I did exactly what you have done. Tons of research then ordered the 8 Edge HD on an Evolution mount. It took a month or so to arrive and in that time I decided I wanted to go down the AP rabbit hole. Don't regret buying it though as I use it while the imaging set up is taking, well, images.

Yeah, that is what I am now thinking.  Although, I still go back and forth.  I wish it would all just get here so that I couldn't change my mind but I am sure until the day it all ships, I will be going back and forth which is very frustrating. 

About a week ago, I thought I knew what I wanted.  I had done cursory research on different telescopes and various setups, and when I say cursory, I mean a couple of days, before making a purchase through B&H.  I ended up ordering a Celestron NexStar SE8 Bundle which came with the following:

• Celestron NexStar SE8 with NexStar+ Hand Controller
• Celestron Alt-Az Single Fork Mount
• Celestron Focus Motor
• Celestron Power Tank 7-Amp
• Celestron Plossi 25 mm E-Lux Eyepiece
• Celestron X-Cel LX 9mm Eyepiece (ordered individually - not part of bundle)
• Moon Filter
• LPR Filter
• AC to DC Power Adapter

For all of the above, I think it ended up around $1,200.  When I placed my order I found out that It would be a while before any of it arrived but I thought that would give me time to learn as much as possible about this setup before it arrived. That delay has actually been a curse.  I have now done a tremendous amount of research which has overwhelmed me.  Here is why:

What do I want my telescope to do? - Observing or Imaging. 

At first, I know need to learn astronomy but I would like to take some pictures.  If all goes the way I hope, I will want to take more serious photos as my experience grows.  But at first, I know I just need to learn how to use a telescope, I need to learn more about astronomy in general, and I need to have fun.  Since I love land and underwater photography however, I know I will want to end up with a setup that can do serious planetary and DSO imaging.  Based on what I have been reading however, I know that one rig to rule both is like looking for the white whale.  So, I think doing planetary imaging would be a better place to start.  Would that be a fair assumption?

So, based on where I am and where I want to go, I am having a difficult time knowing where to start.  It seems the NexStar 8SE is still a decent beginner rig.  I know there are a lot of limitations related to its focal length as well as the mount it includes.  I know that DSO is a pipe dream even though I have seen some DSO imaging examples from some who are getting better than average results.  I have read about other issues like alignment, setup, and stability.  Still, is it a good place for a beginner to start?  It seems that no matter where you begin, you are more than likely going to upgrade over time.  I am just trying to create a baseline that doesn't involve me having to sell everything once I realize what I really need.  

I have now also looked at refracting telescopes, specifically the Explorer Scientific AR 152 air spaced doublet ($750) and a Sky Watcher H EQ Pro Mount ($1,175) with SyncScan GoTo.  This rig is $600 more than the Celestron and doesn't come with anything else so I would need to add-on so it would be even higher.  I don't even know truly what all I would need to start.  This would also be at the top end of my budget or just north of my top budget so that is a concern.  I am thinking to get it up and running, I might need to go over $2,000 which I really don't want to do.  

I have been using a great online tool to check views for different telescopes/ eyepieces/ cameras to get a general feel for what I should expect.  It is http://astronomy.tools/.  Based on this tool, it seems, the Celestron does better for planetary observing/ imaging compared to the Explorer.  I am not sure this is accurate, but that is how I interpreted it. Basedon this site, I did decide to cancel the X-Cel LX 9 mm eyepiece.  It seems it will not get me the observing results I want for planets.  Some of the more distant planets will hardly be visible.  Based on that site, I was now looking at the Vixen HR 1.6.  This eyepiece won't work for the moon but will work nicely for all other planetary objects?

My order will not arrive until Sept so I have plenty of time to change my mind completely but I am just a little overwhelmed in what direction to go.  Is it better to go with the Celestron knowing that more than likely I will change everything out later and just be happy learning the stars, telescopes, basic planetary photography now.  Or, it is better to go the more serious route now.  I am thinking the former but would love to get some advice from others who I am sure have faced this same dilemma.   

thanks all. 

6 hours ago, CCD-Freak said:

Hello from a fellow Texan. 

Where are you located in central Texas ????  I am up in north Texas almost at the Oklahoma border.

 

John
CCD-Freak
WD5IKX

Right outside of Dripping Springs, Texas

Thank you all very much...

57 minutes ago, toshapetriji said:

Hello and welcome to SGL, nice choice of scope, but then I am biased.

Well, I hope you really like your scope.  I am pretty excited.  Any tips, tricks, or must have accessories?

My order came with a battery tank, wi-fi adapter, a couple of filters and an AC adapter and I also purchased a motorized focuser but if you have any thoughts, please let me know. 

Hello all,

Brand new to the site and to astronomy.  I just placed an order for my first telescope, the Celestron NexStar 8SE.  Unfortunately I have to wait a couple of months before it arrives but that gives me plenty of time to read as much as I can.  I have always been interested in astronomy but never given myself the chance to really get involved other than playing around with Stellarium on my PC and Google Sky on my phone.  

I am pretty excited and can't wait for my scope to get here but I am just going to have to wait.  

You will probably see my posting questions from time to time so be nice to an old newbie.

Have a great evening everyone.  LVX