cwis

I can't find a stockist in the UK. Unless the Altair is the same? 8 lenses in 5 groups, 65 degrees - same spec? They look VERY different cosmetically though!

I've been reading lots on this and the more I read, the more questions.... I've got the Skywatcher 130ps Newtonian on the AZ-GTI mount. Initially I used the goto almost exclusively when observing, and purchased the following based on that mode of use: Seben 24-8mm zoom (24mm while I centre target and zoom in to observe) and OVL Nirvana 82 degree 4mm, for splitting doubles and planetary (amazing view of Jupiter the other week) etc. I can do a goto and if the target isn't in the middle the wide angle means I can peer round the field stop, find it and centre it without changing EP. I found using a mobile phone to move the scope about pretty much forced this mode of operation. If you want accurate goto, don't use the secondary encoders, don't move the scope manually - keep the clutches locked. This kind of disrupted the "flow" as I kept having to look away from the eyepiece to zero in on a target with the phone, ruining my night vision on occasion, and you don't tend to tour about the sky either. So I got myself an ESP32 microprocessor, an analog mini joystick and wrote in Micropython something that mimics a Sky-Safari connection to the Synscan software running on my mobile so I can use a tactile interface for navigating once I have set the initial goto. Testing it makes me want to do more manual navigation, and less goto though.... So now I would like a wide angle low powered eyepiece for star hopping, and enjoying the view! Something immersive, something to look at Andromeda with, if you want a specific target. Up until now, edge sharpness wasn't really an issue but now I'm going to be looking at a vista, rather than a specific object, it suddenly is.... Hence the reading, and these questions: Pretty much the widest angle I can get is 68 degrees at 24mm due to the 1.25 inch focusser - right? Can you still get hold of the Explore Scientific 68 degree 24mm? No one seems to have stock. Is the 24mm TV Panoptic worth the money in my circumstance, or will coma degrade the edges as much as the Explore Scientific with my F5 scope? I don't think I can run to a coma corrector as well - that's more than my scope and mount combined! Should I consider any other EP? Opinions welcome but be warned, there will be questions!

I think it's the 3D aspect to it. I'm fine with a diffraction grate, or the waves coming into a harbour. Conceptually I don't have an issue - I'm fine wiv der maffs too. It when I switch it into 3D and try and visualize it something inside my head goes Fzzzt.

Hello! After completing a physics degree 30 odd years ago in which I did quite a few astrophysics modules because I found them fascinating, (I really must get a telescope) and looking at Hale Bopp as I popped out of work for a fag on the night shift, night after night (I really must get a telescope) and being in France (on purpose!) for the total eclipse in 1999 (I Really MUST get a telescope) and watching Mars being huge and red all last year, I FINALLY got a telescope in the middle of lockdown, a few weeks ago. It's a Sky-watcher 130ps on the AZ GTi mount. I got the mount because my back garden is a sea of light pollution and otherwise I'd have no idea where to point a scope (I started looking at the 130 Heritage initally). Since then I've developed quite a fascination with double (and more) stars - and intially started trying to photograph the splits with my mobile phone, an exercise in frustration. After 3d printing about half a million different mounts and adapters I bit the bullet and got a SvBony sv305 camera which I first used in anger a few nights ago on Albireo. It didn't go well. I'm REALLY REALLY going try and stop the equipment creep there - and try and run a lightweight astrophotograpy rig. I can't use an SLR - not enough back focus. I can't use a 130pds - too heavy for the mount. So I'm changing nothing. I might get a heavier tripod though... The OTA is really light - I keep it clamped to the mount so it doesn't float away. I was worried about collimation initially because when the scope turned up the secondary mirror had rotated in transit - seagull shaped stars with the 10mm eyepiece. And you can't adjust the primary mirror. I lined the secondary up nicely with a collimation cap and realized that my eyes had more astigmatism than the scope had coma with a 4mm eyepiece fitted, and ceased with the fretting. I can split the double double, so no worries, right? Anyhoo - hi?

I am going to have to sit down and understand that at some point. Not on a hot Friday afternoon though....

I'm an idiot. I just pulled the cover off the front to have a look how much the focuser projected into the tube to be confronted by three mirror supports. I'll let myself out....

Quick thought - could it be the focuser tube? I've not checked where it sits with the camera on it when it's focussed... If it was sticking into the light path, could I expect another two points?

Hi all, you're about to see the glory that is my very first astrophotograph (compressed quite a lot for bandwidth) ! It's of a famous not binary star and there are many things wrong with it that I can see, so there are probably loads I can't - underexposed background stars is the one that stands out for me... My question however - why is the brighter star "star" shaped? I see six points! My telescope (Sky-watcher 130ps) has four (quite chunky) secondary mirror supports so I'd expect four points? I think I see the same effect with a 4mm eyepiece if I get the focus bang on... Camera is a SvBony sv305 if that makes a difference?