Cameranova

When you do spot Polaris and know how to find it , I shine a laser torch through the polar scope or you could with a finder scope I guess to enable you to see where your set up is pointing , I then use sharpcap and my guide scope .. 

10 hours ago, DaveL59 said:

sure, here you go

I've a LiPo car starter pack and using the Cigar-plug output it was showing too much volts so I put this together. On my EQ5 SynScan the connector is a regular 2.1mm plug just as my CCTV modules use. Bought the plugs with tails and the buck converter off amazon and soldered some eyelets on at the converter end, heat-shrink sleeving to keep things isolated. It works well, gets only slightly warm but the draw is only 2A max when slewing on this mount and much less when just tracking.

 

Ok brill , I will definitely put one of these in the mount power train , fear of loosing a clear night and a motherboard for a little money well spent has got to be worth it .. thanks for the info 👍🏻🙏

10 hours ago, DaveL59 said:

I meant outside the mount, as in trailing 2.1mm plugs that aren't in use but might contact the metal casing and cause an alternate discharge path  

Ah yes ok brill and thanks for your help 👍🏻 Much appreciated.. 

4 minutes ago, Cameranova said:

Can you send a pic of this 12v /5a buck converter please .. 

I’m guessing this would work ? 

3 hours ago, DaveL59 said:

I seem to recall another thread where the culprit was thought to be a shorting to earth via one of the screws holding the board. Worth a scan for other threads and verify if this aflicts yours too before fitting it all and finding out later, or worse, sooner. You might be able to get an electronics shop to test and replace the failed components and get you back a working spare board down the road, assuming it can be done at a reasonably cost of course.

Tend to agree re the nanoProtech and you could also apply some dielectric grease to the connectors to keep moisture at bay on those too. As for the fuses, unlikely a quick-blow would have saved the board I'd think, by the time you hit the 5A rating it'll already be too late for the components.

+1 for the regulator/buck-converter, no idea what the actual no-load output of the power-tank is after fully charging but the EQ5 synscan I have is rated to 15v max according to the manual and the LiPo pack I have drops over 16v onto the output terminals, so I have a 12v/5A buck converter between it and the mount so I'm only putting 12V into it. A few £ for peace of mind vs >£100 when things go wrong.

Can you send a pic of this 12v /5a buck converter please .. 

2 minutes ago, DaveL59 said:

If you've any loose connectors that might touch the body its worth covering them also so you don't get any accidental shorts to the casing

Yes there was nothing loose at all when I opened her up , all looked hunky dory apart from the cooked bit .. 

3 hours ago, DaveL59 said:

I seem to recall another thread where the culprit was thought to be a shorting to earth via one of the screws holding the board. Worth a scan for other threads and verify if this aflicts yours too before fitting it all and finding out later, or worse, sooner. You might be able to get an electronics shop to test and replace the failed components and get you back a working spare board down the road, assuming it can be done at a reasonably cost of course.

Tend to agree re the nanoProtech and you could also apply some dielectric grease to the connectors to keep moisture at bay on those too. As for the fuses, unlikely a quick-blow would have saved the board I'd think, by the time you hit the 5A rating it'll already be too late for the components.

+1 for the regulator/buck-converter, no idea what the actual no-load output of the power-tank is after fully charging but the EQ5 synscan I have is rated to 15v max according to the manual and the LiPo pack I have drops over 16v onto the output terminals, so I have a 12v/5A buck converter between it and the mount so I'm only putting 12V into it. A few £ for peace of mind vs >£100 when things go wrong.

Well i use 3 a celestron lithium powetank pro , a celestron powertank 700ah and a car battery charging pack I think it’s 1700 ah .. I’d connected it to the lithium power tank fully charged I just use that on its own for the mount The others for dew heaters and cameras etc , I’m guessing it was a power surge after reading these messages , much appreciated btw .. or a faulty resistor or whatever , I will make sure I slightly drain the power supply before connecting it next time .. and look into something inline to restrict it to 12v , seems a bit ludicrous is a pretty new mount .. 

3 hours ago, Rocket Stars said:

Had a look again on the board assembly. Maby you should just rubber grommets/washers between the mounting screws,. And the board. 

Thanks I will have a look at doing that too .. 

2 minutes ago, Rocket Stars said:

Oh. If going for lacquer. Remember to mask off connectors ect.. Can be interesting otherwise.. Quality mainboard lacquer, should also be able to clean off. if necessary. Eg component changes/soldering needs ect. 

 

 

Ok will do , I’ll look into it further anyway make sure I’m getting the lacquer process right I don’t want to mess up the new board ..  

2 minutes ago, Rocket Stars said:

Apply some mainboard lacquer before installing the new one. If you're going to pay for it anyway. should be available on spray can. On a place that sells electronic components. 

Oh. Fuses have different ratings. simply explained. Different "sensitivities". Eg. 5A fast or 5A slow.. So with over current. They can take different times to "pop" Well.. My Swenglish explanation anyway. lol

 

Right that’s the info I was after the pop rating so to speak , I will look into a faster blowing fuse and I will take your advice and spray it with lacquer.. many thanks 🙏 

2 minutes ago, Rocket Stars said:

I was thinking about inside of the mount. Behind the cover.

Yes that’s what I meant , it was in he house stored  in the dry .. I’d polar aligned without it turned on with sharpcap then connected the mount to the battery pack switched the on switch and pop .. same routine as always but without the cooking .. 

Yup  cost me a bit for a new board It will still be under warranty from rother valley optics but I don’t want to wait forever for a fix , l know nothing of the internals and boards etc aulthough I’ve got enough common sense to be able to replace it it’s pretty simple .. just hope it doesn’t happen again .. 

It was totally dry at the start of the session no condensation at all but that residue you can see is quite possibly condensation from another night . I will certainly have to make sure it’s dry inside after a nights session in the future .. 

Thanks folks , it’s not the Polarity as suggested above it’s always been connected the same , you can’t change the polarity,  it’s quite possibly a power surge as suggested above but can’t understand why it wouldn’t blow the 5a fuse in the lighter socket .. 

Hi all , some advice here please , last night I set up my mount EQ6 r pro , plugged it into my celestron lithium power tank as I always do and on switching the on button on the mount something went pop inside the mount and a burning smell followed , then all I got was a red flashing power light and nothing else , obviously well not obviously but I think there was a power surge and it fried the motherboard , I’ve already ordered a new motherboard but what steps could I take to make sure this doesn’t happen again , surely the fuse in the power supply (12v car lighter socket type) should have blown before frying the motherboard , or should I use a lower rated fuse .. or something else .. ? I’ll be worried I’m going to fry it every time I turn it on now .. any help appreciated , thanks 🙏