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TrickySpot

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About TrickySpot

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  1. Hi everyone! Can anybody with an EQ8 confirm whether they can hear the mount's motor working when just tracking at sidereal speed? I think mine has developed a noise (hum/whine), but now I'm 2nd guessing myself as I always turn my camera on first to cool down, which would have masked the noise. I don't want to bother FLO more if its normal :-\ I have more than enough power going to the mount and swapped between my two identical PSU's, same noise when running off my camera's PSU. Thanks in advance! Martin
  2. I wouldn't mind "glow in the dark" so I can free up my hand that's holding the red light! But then you have a spare hand and they *are* glowing.....I think this thread should end here, before I get banned!
  3. Now that you say back to me what I had written I see why they took it out! Made me laugh actually :-) For anybody that reads this, for future reference, when you are taking the nut off...because it is so so soft and I cannot see a way to get it out without tapping at an angle on the two holes for the "special spanner"......put masking tape over the bearing below.....I didn't think that far and tiny bits of metal got into the bearing and its taking me ages to get them all out! This mount should have been back together ages ago, but I made extra work for myself by not thinking ahead!
  4. Its a messy job as the locking nut seems to be made of aluminium or some really soft metal, so without the proper spanner, the force needed to loosen the nut messes it up unfortunately. Basically, on the counter weight bar side, take out the 4 obvious hex bolts, then with the counter weight bar off, the nut is visible. There is an access hole to slip an allen key in, I think 1.5mm...loosen both sides and then it should unwind with some WD40 and tapping it off with a hammer. The nut and bearing will then fall off. Back on the puck side, there is one grub screw about half way along the body which needs loosening and then the whole puck, gearbox and housing will just slide out. It was that last grub screw which had me baffled at the end, but it looks out of place and looks like it should be undone!
  5. A heavy DSLR and a 100-400mm L-series Canon Telephoto puts the normal Star Adventurer over the top, I can't move at all without it wobbling.....My 5D M-III only works reasonably well on smaller lens at 100mm on a Manfrotto video camera tripod, and thats PA with a polemaster.....I think the weight limits are horribly over exaggerated. Maybe a smaller DSLR with a £100 75-300mm plastic lens might work, but what kind of quality photos are you going to get??
  6. I always park to my current position....if you park to a predetermined position, I hope its not just mine....but mine slews to roughly that position, not exact.....so I always have to do a 1 star align before using it that way...now I just switch on, load my "alignment model" in EQMod and go, no aligning..... In fact, if you build your "alignment model" with the scopes mounted at 90 degrees, what does the mount care? Surely it will just carry on as per usual? I'm calling it the "alignment model" because its raining and I don't want to go out to startup my obs to see what its really called :-)
  7. Hi jeffmar, Having used a CGEM for many years, I've never had unusual noises at any speed, though putting a C11 with a 70mm guidescope on made it struggle, its just not made for such weight....I also had zero play in either axis, measuring at the end of the counterweight bar could very easily be just play in the bar itself....how hard are you pushing to test? The CGEM is a very noisy mount generally, so its hard to say if a "clunk" is normal or not, all I can say is mine was consistently noisy and more so when under heavy loads. Having just worked on one of the gearboxes I can say there is no slack in my RA axis gearbox itself, though having backlash between the motor and the gearbox is virtually impossible to eliminate in a mechanism that rotates both ways. I'm not a mechanical engineer though, so hopefully somebody can advise on how much/little backlash is normal. I do know you want it at a minimum for general guiding. Hope somebody else has more knowledge to help you out!
  8. Brilliant, thanks again Triton1, got it open and freed the gearbox! I did damage the thread though through previous efforts, and the locking nut it pretty messed up too, hoping it will wind back on without too much force, the nut I can clean up with some files (or replace) - it doesn't have to look pretty to do its job.
  9. Thanks Triton, I've probably messed the thread up then...here's hoping the nut cuts its way back on and tightens! That's if I can get the gearbox moving again.... Will have a go now and see what happens.
  10. Sorry to resurrect old threads, but have been looking at super fast smaller aperture scopes as Johnrt mentioned was an option. This is currently so super enticing: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/offers/clearance_borg-90fl-f4-astrograph-ota-set_76162.html That seems to fit the description of a smaller aperture super fast refractor? Then I started thinking.....I have a Canon 100-400mm telephoto (f/4 - f/5.6) lens which is 77mm, surely that would make an excellent imaging scope? I've tried the Geoptik Canon lens to Astrocam adapter and on the last use it broke a portion of the bayonet fitting on a cheaper Canon telephoto lens, I can't see any other solution on the market.....and I'm not keen on DSLR long exposures, I just don't think they're made for that.....anybody used canon lenses as imaging scopes before? Cheers!
  11. LOL...whats with the [removed word]?? I'm sure I just said "larger"!
  12. Hi All, I have a CGEM which took a fall and now has a RA gearbox which is stuck (motors work). Its at the stage of ready for the bin, but I thought I'd give it one more go.....I've taken out the 4 obvious bolts to split the housing in two, but I gather the shaft it rotates on (RA Axis), would also need to come out. One one end is a smallish nut against a bearing, two small holes in the nut on the top, also the sides. Other end has a much [removed word] nut with much bigger holes. I gather that in the factory they have special spanners which fit, like an angle grinder spanner, but I don't have the luxury. I have tried persuading both sides to come lose with a hole punch and hammer, going anti-clockwise...but neither budged. Does anybody know if these nuts perhaps have grub screws securing them from the side and if they perhaps have reversed thread and come lose going clockwise? Thanks in advance, any ideas would be most welcome!
  13. Hi All, I have a CGEM which took a fall and now has a RA gearbox which is stuck (motors work). Its at the stage of ready for the bin, but I thought I'd give it one more go.....I've taken out the 4 obvious bolts to split the housing in two, but I gather the shaft it rotates on (RA Axis), would also need to come out. One one end is a smallish nut against a bearing, two small holes in the nut on the top, also the sides. Other end has a much [removed word] nut with much bigger holes. I gather that in the factory they have special spanners which fit, like an angle grinder spanner, but I don't have the luxury. I have tried persuading both sides to come lose with a hole punch and hammer, going anti-clockwise...but neither budged. Does anybody know if these nuts perhaps have grub screws securing them from the side and if they perhaps have reversed thread and come lose going clockwise? Thanks in advance, any ideas would be most welcome!
  14. With PPEC done and guiding, I usually am guiding way under 1", about 0.4".....I get great images....just not as good as if I was in a dark area...hence me wanting to compensate with a larger aperture, especially as I've built a whole observatory..... :-)
  15. Thats a thing of beauty!!!! I'll start looking for a large aperture refractor then, thats probably the route to go...2nd hand TAK? Cheers, Martin
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