Shooting star

10 hours ago, John said:

If you find something of interest feel free to ask about it on here - there is sure to be someone who has one or has used one at some time

Great point. Will definitely do that. I'm going through the Brian Ventrudo's "How to Choose Eyepieces for Your Astronomy Telescope" article which is best I've read so far for my level. 

9 hours ago, Louis D said:

And someone who is probably aware of multiple rebrandings of the same thing with varying degrees of packaging ergonomics and attractiveness.

Bit of a minefield, especially for the newbie such as I!

3 hours ago, John said:

Actually a lot of that goes on even with some of the big names. If the design is a good one then the brand name that is on it does not matter too much.

For example, these are all the same eyepiece:

https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/ovl-hyperflex-7e1-72mm-215mm-high-performance-zoom-eyepiece-125.html

https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/lunt-ls7-21ze-zoom-eyepiece-72mm-215mm.html

https://www.astroshop.eu/eyepieces/orion-7-2mm-21-5mm-1-25-zoom-eyepiece/p,17113

http://www.opticstar.com/Run/Astronomy/Astro-Accessories-Telescopes-Opticstar.asp?p=0_10_5_1_8_330

Big range of prices though !

 

See what your saying. I'll need to understand the design more and deep dive the reviews.

1 hour ago, John said:

SVBONY re-brand eyepieces so they are probably better known under other brand names.

If you link to a particular eyepiece or range then we can give an opinion.

 

Ah I see. Thanks. Sounds like one to avoid. Don't like the idea of rebranded.

On 22/04/2020 at 22:55, miguel87 said:

I dont wear glasses so I cant comment on that aspect.

There is no question that the SLV's have a slightly sharper image. But otherwise it's quite a close call. The extra 10 degrees AFOV in the starguiders is really nice to look at with very good stars almost right to the edge (my scope is f5 too). I slightly prefer the contrasty view through the starguider too, it could just be my eyes but the sky background is a very pleasing colour.

I bought the SLVs mostly for planetary stuff often paired up with my barlow so I wanted to get a quality lens what would put up with being barlowed at high magnifications.

But higher up the focal lengths, I would go for the BSTs everytime because the contrast and wider view are great.

Wonder what you all think of SVBONY eyepieces. Not heard of them so cautious about quality...?

10 hours ago, miguel87 said:

I dont wear glasses so I cant comment on that aspect.

There is no question that the SLV's have a slightly sharper image. But otherwise it's quite a close call. The extra 10 degrees AFOV in the starguiders is really nice to look at with very good stars almost right to the edge (my scope is f5 too). I slightly prefer the contrasty view through the starguider too, it could just be my eyes but the sky background is a very pleasing colour.

I bought the SLVs mostly for planetary stuff often paired up with my barlow so I wanted to get a quality lens what would put up with being barlowed at high magnifications.

But higher up the focal lengths, I would go for the BSTs everytime because the contrast and wider view are great.

Another great insight. Helping me to come to conclusions on what is best for me. Thanks.

10 hours ago, Louis D said:

The Vixen LV/NLV/SLV are 45 to 50 degrees AFOV, 16mm to 18mm of usable eye relief, high quality lens polish, and very good multicoatings.  They offer up excellent edge to edge sharpness over a limited field of view for the eyeglass wearer on a budget.

The Starguider BSTs offer 57 to 62 degrees AFOV, 12mm to 18mm of usable eye relief, mid-quality lens polish, and good multicoatings.  They offer up a near-superwide field of view, good central sharpness and decent correction to the edge on an even tighter budget.  They may not be the best for eyeglass wearers, though.

Great advice! As an eyeglass wearer eye relief (and exit pupil I suppose) will be critical. Thank you very much.

4 hours ago, Timebandit said:

 

Well I have moved into the pricer brackets by now in the hobby. Been into the astro for a few years now. As I have a OOuk 14 Dob and a SW 120Ed then it was time to get eyepiece's to do these scopes the fov and optical sharpness they deserve but with sensible eye relief. So over the last  couple of years  I have build a collection up of mostly Pentax XW in the 3.5 to 10 mm range and for a wider fov around the 20mm a TV nagler ,also a few BGO. Most of my gear has been purchased used. I think when it comes to astro gear you need to do a balancing act with your gear. As the views are only as good as the weakest link in your optical chain.

 

Hope this helps 

 

 

It all helps and thanks. I think I need to consider used gear where I wouldn't have previously. 

4 hours ago, miguel87 said:

I use vixen SLV for short focal length, bit pricier but worth it, I have a starguider which are endlessly popular and cheap, a vixen nPL which isnt perfect but a step up from supplied eyepieces and one 2 inch sky watcher panaview which I think is underrated.

What would you say is the difference between the Vixen SLV and the Starguider eyepieces. How different a viewing experience is it? 

3 hours ago, DeanCJ said:

Have you considered a zoom eyepiece? I personally have never used one but for £185 you could get a Baader Hyperion IV from FLO which would give you a focal length of 8 to 24 mm, also, if you could stretch your budget a little RVO are offering a combo deal to include the Baader zoom with the matching 2.25 Baader Barlow for £235 which would give you a focal length of 3.6 to 24mm. 
I am a novice myself, and as I have said, I have never used a zoom but I believe the Baader zoom is highly rated and I am sure other forum members would give you their opinions.

Thank you. I'll look into it. I know the Baader name is quality and I had read somewhere that a zoom is a viable option.

4 hours ago, miguel87 said:

I would rey to get a range of focal lengths rather than 1 great eyepiece. I have a choice of 5 eyepieces when I observe and most people would call this a fairly small range (I have a barlow too).

I would look at having a range of magnifications between about 25x and 300x.

You can get alot with £200, all my eyepieces including my barlow would cost £300 new!

Good thought. Sounds wise. Surprising the relatively little spend required. Which brands are you happy with?

4 hours ago, Timebandit said:

 

Also keep a look out on the second hand market ,such as SGL sales site. You can sometimes make a considerable saving buying used, and most of us look after our astro kit. So some nice used gear comes up at very sensible money 

 

 

 

Will do. Great suggestions, appreciated.

2 hours ago, Timebandit said:

 

Hello . The stock eyepiece's that come with the scope and usually just to get you going.

The BST starguider range are a decent next step up in eyepiece's that lots of members on this site use with good results.

Also don't get hung up with magnification. There is no point having a super high power eyepiece that when viewed the image is soft or blurred. You are much better having a slightly lower magnification that is sharp and well defined.

Hope this helps

 

 

 

Understand what you say on magnification. Quality important. Thanks. 

BST recommend more than once so I'll have a look. Cheers.

2 hours ago, Ricochet said:

What is your budget for upgrading the eyepieces? When I was in a similar I started by adding 8mm and 12mm Starguiders. At the longer focal lengths you need to start looking at ES68° eyepieces to get the same quality. 

Thanks. £200 would be upper most for a given eyepiece but somewhere between £100-150 ideal. 

I was gifted an Orion XT8 telescope which came with only an Orion Sirius Plossl Multi-coated 25mm. It seems a decent starter eyepiece,  but I know it is on the lower end of the spectrum. More serious intentions now... Wondering what next step ought to be. Quality 2x Barlow? Or do I want to buy a better 25mm eyepiece to replace the existing? Or go for a good quality short focal length one? Say an 8mm which then, one day with 2x Barlow, would give me the max (suggested at 300x as opposed to the theoretical 400x)? Any thoughts/strategies would be appreciated.

15 hours ago, alacant said:

Mmm.  Don't forget the collimation myths

You're there already. You may now replace the hammer in its rightful place.

Cheers

Thanks. I think I will review the myths once hammer sold on eBay! Saw my first galaxy last night (albeit pretty undefined with 48x power) all thanks to your brilliant guidance. Many thanks. 

On 19/04/2020 at 08:51, Shooting star said:

Amazing you can determine from my average camera pic. Big cup of coffee and check hammer secured away and begin micro adjustments. Big thanks.

Not sure what happened. Though I sent reply and attached two images. checked just now and don't see any evidence of thst! Anyways, pretty sure I have completed collimation and many thanks. It appears to star test I'll need a bit more power. 2x Barlow next on my list to be able to go from 48x to 96x. 

10 hours ago, alacant said:

In the orientation you have, the secondary needs lowering while the top edge is rotated toward you.

 

Amazing you can determine from my average camera pic. Big cup of coffee and check hammer secured away and begin micro adjustments. Big thanks.

4 hours ago, alacant said:

Good. So It's working. Oh, and f6 is very forgiving anyway:)

Difficult to visualise. Probably best to send one shot through the collimation cap and then another with the sight tube. Try to keep the 'phone central.

Not sure my photos will help (?) Top is with collimation cap.

26 minutes ago, alacant said:

Good. So It's working. Oh, and f6 is very forgiving anyway:)

Difficult to visualise. Probably best to send one shot through the collimation cap and then another with the sight tube. Try to keep the 'phone central.

That is sensible and thanks. Will try and image and send through.

6 minutes ago, alacant said:

Phew. A hex key makes it that much more difficult. What telescope is it? Hex head m4 screws work fine as adjusters in most spiders.

 

Your a star (no pun intended). I really appreciate you helping as you are. Sure you have better things to do on a Sat!

It's in Orion XT8  8" mirror; f5.9; 1200mm  focal (most generously gifted to me), but in need of care with spider web in tube and speckeld, dirty primary (but that is phase 2 work for me!).

When I looked after the initial secondary adjustment was made and now without baffles, I see this attached view (representation I found). Pretty close to that, which makes me instinctively think something is wrong...

I'm actively practicing Zen/Jedi ultra-patience mind control where I metaphysically alter the hammer to a silk like material...😂

Cheers.

26 minutes ago, alacant said:

Correct. You placed the card baffles and background to prevent seeing this and misleading yourself.

2 choices:

1. Call that good enough and go and adjust the primary.

Or

2. Make sure the big hammer is still well hidden. Then...

Get the cross hair intersection in the centre of the primary spot. That should be close. Look only at the primary donut and the cross-hairs. Proceed first slackening one secondary screw and tightening another. Make tiny movements. Hopefully, you'll have thumb adjusters on your secondary. If not, fit them now. Keep doing this until the cross-hairs coincide. If you mess this up, back to the baffles and start again. 

Cheers

LOL Hammer locked away...

No thumb adjusters, but can see great benefit in having them.  Will have a go. Thanks.

On 17/04/2020 at 11:25, Ally8446 said:

Once you have centred the secondary you then have to adjust it to hopefully get all the primary mirror clips in view (see photo). I've you're happy with that then refer to the primary and adjust accordingly. 

Al

Help! So I got the secondary perfectly round and centered to the collimation cap view through focuser. Quite pleased with myself. Than I summoned the courage to remove the white baffle and coloured background cards and view again through the collimation cap...🤔 the view now shows I'm no where near on centre secondary to primary. Is that normal? Why SO far out?! And how am I going to now okay with secondary adjustment screws without undoing all that initial work?!

In all the online guides and YouTube videos, once you get secondary good in the focuser with collimation cap, you simply proceed to align the primary. Why are they saying that if you actually need to do a secondary to primary alignment in between?

So why does Astro Baby have you do two secondary alignments (which in theory results in an infinite loop of secondary adjustments as one will akways throw the other off- you get it right and then undo it)?

Are all the two step: secondary in focuser + primary wrong somehow?

Bemused...

Neill

Just now, alacant said:

Very wise LOL!

Hopefully whatever wisdom I have will offset total lack of experience! Thank you for your kind help. 

48 minutes ago, Ally8446 said:

Once you have centred the secondary you then have to adjust it to hopefully get all the primary mirror clips in view (see photo). I've you're happy with that then refer to the primary and adjust accordingly. 

Al

Many thanks. My brain says the second fiddling will only de center the work initially done. But understand the intent.