Al-man

1 hour ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

None of them, if you want reliable operation, with less headaches, the best solution is to site a computer adjacent to the mount\scope, thereby using short USB cables.

You can then control the computer remotely, using WiFi (not my prefered solution) or gigabit ethernet. It doesn't have to be a very powerful computer, it just need to be able to run your preferred control\acquisition software, you can even save images remotely to your 'inside' computer. 

I tried that option when I first set it all up, but my old laptop wasn't powerful enough to run the software. Although in hindsight it probably wouldn't have cost much more to buy a S/H laptop than the cables and adapters.

On 17/05/2020 at 22:02, stu640 said:

Hi Al-man, hope you're still about on here? I'm just about to go through this process. I've not found anywhere else on the web anyone discussing this exact problem for the 150PL. You're it! Did you successfully fit the auto focuser after getting the knob off? How did it work out? Thank you! Stu

Hi, Sorry for the late reply, I haven't been on here for a while. I hope you got it sorted ok. Mine works fine and I control it remotely on my PC via USB lead. The speed can be adjusted in the program.

I am looking for advice on reducing the number of leads from three to one. At the moment I have the USB camera connected via 25 mtrs of USB 3 cable (with a powered USB3 Hub in the middle) to my PC in the house. The electric focuser is connected to the PC with 25 mtrs of Ethernet cable with USB to RJ45 adapters at each end and the telescope mount controller handset is connected via another 25mtr length of Ethernet cable with RJ45 to RS232 adapters at each end. I have seen on Amazon a USB 3.0 Hub -  USB Ethernet Adapter Splitter with RJ45 10/100/1000Mbps Gigabit Network LAN Port - 3 Ports USB 3.0 HUB (not sure if links to Amazon are allowed on here). This has a USB 3 lead  ( for power ? ) input at one end, a RJ45 socket at the other with three USB 3 ports in the middle. If I had one of these at each end of a single RJ45 lead with the three USB devices connected at the telescope end and three short USB leads from my PC connected to the USB 3 /RJ45 at the other end, would this work ?. If not is there a another way of reducing the number of cables.  I find that unrolling and rolling up the cables each time I use the telescope, usually results in a bit of a tangle. 😒

18 hours ago, Merlin66 said:

I think these knobs are threaded, the shaft having a taper and thread end.

I'd try holding one knob and then turning the other anticlockwise with a fair effort to get it to release....

I use the SW focus motor on all my telescopes - works well for me.

(With the 10:1 versions I belt drive the 10:1 knob - 6mm xml belt, 30 tooth pinion on the motor)

 

Thanks, you were right, I got one undone with a bit more effort.

9 hours ago, Swamp Gas said:

is it worth popping off the four black screws to reveal the gear inside, maybe there is a flat spot or something you can grip or vice?

I removed the four screws as you suggested, although there was no flat on the spindle, I removed the spindle which made it much easier to undo one of the focuser knobs.

I have a Skywatcher 150PL and am thinking of fitting a Skywatcher Auto Focuser. Looking at youtube videos for similar scopes, it seems that one of the focuser knobs has to be removed, but mine has no grub screw. I have read that on some of these scopes the focuser knob may be screwed or glued on and that the Skywatcher Auto Focuser is not suitable for this type.

I have tried to see if the Focuser knob would unscrew, but couldn't shift it and was worried about using too much force. Has anyone fitted one of these to this type of focuser ( as shown in pics) and if so how ?. Were there any modifications needed to fit the Auto Focuser ?