Skyballer

Thanks all for taking the time to look at my image! It's a funny one, what's causing all that noise/static? Was my first go with the samyang 14mm, maybe the wide lens just took in too much of the light pollution that my 50mm wasn't before? Will check out sequator. Next clear night though I'm going out of town. I live about 30min drive from one of only 2 dark sky parks in the UK, or 15min I can go up to the base of the cairngorm mountains, it's out of town and up high and long clear views of the sky.

That's awesome, nice to know I can capture the milky way, just need to get out of town. Thanks for taking a look at it I've never used Siril, is there any tutorials you'd recommend for it that could help me take my image and extract this from it? Thanks

Took a 1 hour total exposure of cygnus and lyra last night, unfortunately I cannot avoid part of my house in the view til my car gets back from the garage and I can go for a drive. Anyway, I stacked the images, it used about 46min worth and then I cropped out the house in PS. Here is the cropped stack: https://mega.nz/file/LNNTnILS#h4bROsV3qdIFi-_pBKM2PyM9QDhaB9CaTB13Ru3MJkM Here is the original uncropped stack: https://mega.nz/file/XJNXlSYK#JXE6tY4zcIyw4TAllEAmp-T2p-jXBO8xJKmWKDE5uVw The problem I'm having while doing my post processing is in extracting detail and colour I seem to get a lot of noise. The picture ends up washed out and messy with some rainbow banding top right. I'm using GradientXTerminator btw if that matters, then following guides on using levels and curves to pull out the detail. Seem to be struggling with this one. If anyone can take a look at it, maybe it's just me? If I'm correct I should be able to pull out some of the milky way too.

I'm doing 20 sec exposures of Lyra right now, first time with this samyang 14mm lens, new in general though. How many of these exposures would it be recommended to run before having to stop and re align vega back in the centre of my view? I know deep sky stacker will align the images so hoping I don't have to re align every 2 min? Thanks

Thanks appreciate it and I can see the aperture change now 🙂

Thanks Dave so just to confirm since I'm new to camera equipment, I set it to the lowest which is 22, that gets rid of the error. Then when I set the aperture manually in either A or M mode it will infact change it on the lens? I ask as I don't hear any motor or anything when I change the dial, or does it only take affect when you take a picture? I assume using the interval timer to automatically take however many pics will still take the aperture set via the M mode settings?

Right some playing around and I'm confused, but if I set the aperture ring to 22 to get rid of the error but then select 2.8 via the camera i get a nice bright picture, if I change it to 22 via the camera I get a dark picture, as expected. But if I have it set to 2.8 via the camera then remove the lens (mind the ring is manually at 22 on the lens) then looking through the back it clearly is at 22, so how is this working? Is the camera quickly switching it from the 22 its locked at on the lens to 2.8 then back each and every photo? I'd much prefer to have proper manual control via the aperture ring on the lens.

Okay, so I've realised, if anyone can confirm setting the aperture from the camera will in fact set the chosen aperture on the lens. So I can just put the ring on the lens manually to 22 so the error goes away and just set whatever aperture I want via the camera itself. It's only the focus that has to be done manually with this lens?

Hi, So only just started in astrophotography, I have this D5300 and just put a Samyang 14mm f2/8 lens on it and it comes up with this error: Now note this wee plastic tab in the following picture: If I push that tab in with my finger I can use it on what ever aperture i set. Otherwise I have to set the aperture ring to 22 in which case the we tab on the ring itself depresses it, the error goes away and I can use it. Obviously it's daft having to hold it in, why is it designed this way, what do others do about this? Surely this isn't a design oversight as manual lenses are not uncommon. Thanks

How do you use this to fix the colour?

Thanks, that did the trick!

Again better than mine!! But I'm curious how alacant pulled out all that colour

The polariser is on the 70-300mm lens so haven't bothered with it, as the 50mm with its f value suits me well. But saying this, I got hooked fast and have just bought a Samyang 14mm f/2.8 ultra wide lens As you say, my next step will be a tracker. But at least with the Samyang I can now do up to 20 sec exposures (that factors for the cropped sensor on my camera).

Looks much better than my attempt! Can you explain if you have the time how you pulled the extra colour out? Also that overlay that marks the stars is very nice, where did you do that? Thanks, appreciate the help.

Just checked with exif pilot and yep, 0.5 sec exposures! lol, silly mistake. So not terrible on a 5min exposure!!

Thanks for all the tips guys. I got the interval timing down yesterday, seems an additional 2 seconds works well. I've been taking about 30 darks right before I start my lights. I assume I can reuse old bias frames but what about flats?

Was having a wee play around last night with a shot of mars, 240 x 6 sec exposure. Facing that direction was multiple street lights unfortunately that left a horrible cast top right and bottom left of the image. How do I remove this? Any tutorial I follow doesn't seem to help much: https://mega.nz/file/fZdWwQzY#9POmz0mfUqpOKLdN0-1bym-Se9YdwbTcbJbCffE1Gqg

Should the Long exposure NR and High ISO NR be on and if yes what setting for high iso nr? Also say I want to take 30 x 6 second long exposures. I set the shutter speed to 6" then in the settings, interval timer shooting the interval time, do I set that to 6 or does it need to be higher? **Just tested the interval time and although I selected a shutter speed of 6 seconds on manual mode, when I went into the interval timer shooting in the settings, 6 or 7 seconds with 3 pictures as a test resulted in it only taking 2 pictures? Had to bump that to 8 seconds to get 3 photos. How do I know the correct interval time to set relating to my shutter speed? As when I get a samyang 14mm lens i'd be able to bump shutter speed up to 20 sec.

Here, stacked again, but for some reason the score for the highest image was a lot lower. Wasn't getting many stars detected even with a low threshold, unlike the guy in that video who had >200 stars and a score >1800 https://mega.nz/file/GEs3EBYJ#qPGiGSthWP5gODq376XNGFEBv97qh0Aj25WXvVsN3y4 **I think i made a big mistake and had my shutter speed set to 1/2 second rather than 2! Cloudy tonight but have a decent break on mars so going to have a little play with 6 second exposures in that area, though light pollution is greater that direction.

Doing that now. I fear I may have messed up from the start anyway by not doing a long enough exposure, as the histogram on reflection is way off to the left. But you live and you learn. Unfortunately it's a cloudy night so can't go out and redo them.

I fear I have so much to learn yet, as I'm not sure what you're asking me to do. I can't recall seeing that artifact myself. Right now I'm following this guide for the most part, link to where he starts the DSS process:

I'll redo the stack and upload, will take a while though. Wanted to do that anyway since I saved over it by mistake.

What do you mean by that? (still learning)

Here is the almost original stack, I'd done a first stretch and then accidentally saved over it: https://mega.nz/file/uYFE0IoB#KQdFD1jIaFzHX9Jzez04F3bjUAnCKvIHJD0sucSLsq8

Yeah definitely shooting raw. So suggested to stick at ISO 200 and increase the exposure time? I'll admit I forgot to check the histogram and on further review it's completely off the left side. Will try again with higher exposure time on the next clear night. The histogram on the D5300 is split into 4 channels, is this correct? Which do I need to read?