serbiadarksky

So than I will need a lens collar for my 135mm samyang? Or it will be fine attached to the camera? It weights somewhere around 800g

9 hours ago, sattor said:

Hi everyone,

I'm very pleased to join you!

My name is Theodor , i live in Athens and i do astrophotography since 2014. My observatory is at my village in Messinia with relatively dark sky (bortle 4). 

Because of the birth of my son its not easy as before to travel for my hobby. So my next goal-challenge is to upgrade my setup and go on with astrophotography in my white zone Athens... 

I wish you all Clear skies!!

Γεια σας and welcome to SGL

nice to see more and more people from the Balkans. I live in Serbia and visit Greece every summer

Nikola

On 12/02/2019 at 16:07, alan4908 said:

It was quite difficult for me to select five of my favorites from a productive 2018, but here they are. All are taken with my Esprit 150.

Alan

SH2-136 (Ghost Nebula)

M106

NGC1333

NGC4631

NGC4685

How much are the galaxy images cropped? I am sure thats not the real fov as the esprit 150 doesnt have that much fl.

On 21/03/2019 at 12:54, Vixen4eva said:

I can't wait to get mine! Great images Adam!

Regards 

Alan

Same here! In april

also I think I saw your posts on facebook in Star Adventurer group but using a vixen gp? 

+1 on FaDG and I just want to make it more simple, thats being done with camera looking thru small scope called guidescope and a software like PhD2, it centers a star and registers the movement of it. If the star is out of the center the software will tell to you mount to go faster, slower, left right etc..

2 hours ago, alacant said:

Hi. Good advice:)

Another way I've found is to use an OAG with PHD2's PPEC. 

HTH

i looked at oag, it can save a bit of money and weight for me, but I have been told that oag cant work with my dslr..

1 hour ago, Merlin66 said:

The Canon 1300D appears to have 4.3 micron pixels

http://www.everyothershot.com/pixel-pitch-canon-dslrs/

I knew it is 4.3 or 4.6 haha, just wasnt home to check or to google it 

12 hours ago, Adam J said:

Depends on what camera your using. Smaller the pixels the harder it is to track. SO..I suspect that some people who find it works perfectly well for them are probably using a large pixel camera such as a 450D (5.2um) , a 1000D (5.7um) a 6D (6.54um)....etc.

On the other hand with a ASI1600mm pro and 3.8um pixels, pushes a unmodified HEQ5pro and your better off with belt mods if you want to consistently get round stars.

Adam

 

 

I use a 1300D, 4.3 or 4.6um, I dont really know

3 hours ago, cuivenion said:

The EQ6-R Pro is my realistic dream mount ?. Please don't take what I said as discouragement, good luck with your imaging.

Well than you say that the 130PDS and the EQ5 can be totally ok?

4 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Absolutely true, but the HEQ5 does make it easier to get results.

I know.If i get the bucls I will deff go for the heq5 if not eq6r

9 minutes ago, RolandKol said:

It does not work perfectly on my NEQ6
I guess, it more depends on the skills/experience, Light Pollution,  Weather permission to experiment and if you have a minimalistic equipment, like small guiding scope, small cameras and etc, matching mount loading limits and the Light Pollution in your area...
And with a better mount, you will have better chances to set everything up faster.

I mean the "perfectly" in terms of weight.

About my LP? 21 sqm here in garden, Bortle 4 to be more precise

7 hours ago, cuivenion said:

It all depends on your budget and what equipment you already have. People have got good results with the EQ5 and similar mounts, but the lower the quality of the mount the harder it is. For visual the EQ5 and 130PDS are well matched but for AP a HEQ5 will be a real step up, I've used both mounts and I'd definitely go for the HEQ5 if you can.

Well, I respect your words, but I have been told several times that EQ5 and 130PDS can work perfectly for imaging.

30 minutes ago, JohnSadlerAstro said:

Hi,

Yes, for size and weight those two are very nicely matched. However, I would just warn you about using the EQ5 for guiding--I tried it and it was quite frustrating, I ended up upgrading to a used NEQ6. It might be worth considering an HEQ5, which is really designed for astrophotography--it is also a bit sturdier so it will be able to hold the 130 really steady.  

Hope this helps,

John

I have never heard about guiding issues with eq5, all what I heard was that it cant take a big scope..btw I wanted a 150PDS, now I am concerned about 130PDS and can the mount do ap with it..and at the end I found a guy doing 15min exposures with EQ5 and 200/1000(9.5kg scope) lol..

I just saw this topic.

My first plan was to go for a 150PDS and EQ5 for imaging (with guiding etc)

Than I saw the 130PDS and wow I am in love with it!

Will it be totally ok to do imaging with the 130PDS instead of 150PDS on EQ5 Pro goto? The 150PDS is just under the limit, so I guess the 130PDS will work perfectly with that mount.

15 minutes ago, Leon-Fleet said:

Ready for tonight ! 
Gonna practise polar aligning and then fire off some shots of Andromeda. Hopefully he moon won't wash out all my shots! 

One thing though, when I put 6 at the bottom on the polar scope it obviously puts the camera at a funny angle. Is this ok ? Feels a bit strange to me. 

It is normal.

What I would suggest is to decide what you want.

You want to use the L bracket only, or the ballhead only.

The 2 together is a pretty heavy combination

5 hours ago, knobby said:

Don't forget a programmable intervalometer (unless you mean Star adventurer mini as has phone app for this + cable to camera)

Please make sure to download the latest firmware + software, now you can use dithering in RA too

11 hours ago, waruna said:

Hi Sir,

Yes, budget is quite tight right now. Sorry for this noob question, but what is vintage prime lens? 

Is it achievable if I just use the DSLR stock lens kit for starter?

Thank you.

A vintage prime lens is a pretty old lens with fixed focal lenght, for example the pentax takumar 135mm f2.5 is an extremly popular one.

You will need an adapter to attach to you body for example pentax pk to canon eos or similar...just happened that I yesterday received my cosinon auto mc 135mm f2.8 lens and the adapter to use on my canon.

1 more thing about vintage lens (in normal borders) is that they are extremly cheap! Just make sure to get the adapter which makes infinity focus possible and that the glasses are in perfect shape!

1 hour ago, stonedunicorn said:

dropbox has a limit to 2gb and all of them are around 3gb so i will upload them in google drive if that helps and if some can make something out of it would be great, but with my upload speed this will time some hours so stay tuned

Its fine

Just now, stonedunicorn said:

thats the final image from that stuck but i am a bit dissapointed i hoped for something better  will try stacking again with some different settings and hope for the best

Upload all the raw lights to dropbox and post the link, can I give it a try please?

Interesting

I have the exact oposite situation..my image always comes out totally white or extremly bright with only few to 0 stars seen.

I need to open it in Photoshop, play with levels and thats it it is normal color again

So, anyone tried out the new firmware we made with the new software? Link is above

1 hour ago, SteveNickolls said:

Hi and greatful thanks for posting this. Am I right thinking this means one would then have to use the SA to control an imaging run rather than work through software such as BYEOS. Thanks in advance.

Cheers,
Steve

Yes as I rewrited the firmware, now the SA controls your session so it knows when the exposure is done to be able to dither 

Off topic

SkyWatcher and I worked on new firmware, loader and software

From today, you can dither with the in-built Dithering with new firmware

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jzx51l7bp241oj4/StarAdventurerSet.rar?dl=0

Good luck!

Anyone here knows what is causing my images to shift? I have all tighten up, so this shifting is creating hard walking noise...

And aim it to the sky or where? I dont have any lightbox..if i aim it to pc display where i open white paper in fullscreen than i have to center so onyl thw monitr will be visible?