MG1

Never mind the fact that the reticule is no longer accurate due to procession..! Ho hum!

Excellent...that's now on my to-do list!

I had been trying to source some nylon tipped thumb screws for that job with little success. Best I could find we're nylon tipped grub screws which could have thumb turns attached to the end.

But now you've saved me the bother...cheers!

It's a bit like comparing the rubber tyres are made of with red Royal Mail rubber bands...

These are industrial products, not simply rubber:

http://www.motionco.co.uk/timing-belts-timing-belts-c-25_38_27.html

Check out the operating range and material characteristic before you commit if you're worried. I think they can cope with quite a bit more than we're likely to throw at them.

Use jewellers rouge to polish your (gear) teeth! It stains virtually everything so not a job for the kitchen table. Alternately use cerium oxide - cleaner working.

Both are quite slow working on metals - avoid silicon carbides even in fine paste form (aka valve grinding paste) the word grinding there means everything!

Note: if your lapping worm/wheel combos then remember that the softer metal (usually the wheel) will have some of the polishing medium embed itself in, so all the time your using the scope the worm/wheel are suffering accelerated wear!

So is it then just a case of cleaning up the gears, reassembling with rouge in lieu of grease and running the motors continuously?

I'm guessing there is a little more finesse involved

Cheers Malcolm, I always forget about the limitations placed by real-world availability of components!

D'oh!

apologies for another post...especially as I'm so late to the party, but is there any advantage to other ratios such as utilising a 10t and 50t pulleys?

Or is it size size constraints, designed to not require housing mods that has driven the 12t/48t combo?

Again apols if this has been asked already, although having read through from the start I must have missed it if it has.

CS

George gave this link but i haven't tried them, my machinist was a couple of quid cheaper.

HPC Gears, modifications page

If the teflon sheets are for a hypertune then there is a guy in the states that will send you a pack of teflon washers for 13 dollars enough to do a tune up...i never looked into getting the sheets. His contact details are on astrobaby website in the hypertuning section.

I bought two sets from him last week.

Ah yes Doug.... I purchased from him last year when I did my hypertune. I still have a few spare spacers, but thought i might be able to source the 0.015" sheet over here. Unfortunately it's only available in metric @ .25 and the .05mm. Never mind, Doug is a really nice guy and so I have no qualms sending a few more $$ his way.

Ta!

Slight side step, but did someone mention lapping/ polishing earlier on? Any links for suitable paste/ instruction would be of interest....I feel a EQTwK sticky should maybe take shape to bring all of this stuff together.

CS

Cheers Chris I'm over to the bay right now...was worried I was going to have to fork out for a whole massive sheet!

Btw, has everyone doing this mod recorded their PE prior to and changes? Just thinking we could have a good sample here to establish what sort of improvements can be gleaned?

I've attached my lastest (Hypertune a year on - no fine tuning yet) PHD log...I'm about to go through the PECPrep tutorials again and will report what sort of PE I'm starting with...although I may need to do some gear meshing first as I think something was making a funny noise...

fingers crossed

PHD_log_06Nov11.txt

PS, re washers, does anyone have a source for teflon sheet between 0.25 and 0.5mm thick?

One of the companies can rebore them out for a couple of pounds before sending them..hence it becomes just a put together job.

Hi Neil, I've been watching with interest and looking forward to seeing some PE data after all these have been assembled, but just out of interest...Which of the companies will rebore out before sending the parts. I quite fancy having a crack at this if I can get the machining done...(or purchase a cheap kit )

looks nice and solid...but if that blue line is a DPC it's a little close to the ground. Typically you would take 2 courses above the ground using engineering or other frost resistance spec before a DPC.

Also a treated batten to act as a sole plate (on topof the bricks) would be better to hang the joists off...this distributes the load a little better and is easier to fix into...as you're building a timber frame on top this will also give a better footing to the frame to fix your noggins and studs to. If each of these goes into brick you'll have a bit of a nightmare.... hitting holes (or frogs if you've gone old school with the spec.)

Nice one. Was disappointed to see Stagonset go, but pleased others have suggested some more (&cheaper) alternatives.

Have finally gotten around to take a picture while at Kielder....

....love the pentax collection! sweeeeet!

Funny post to be my first, but have you tried www.stagonset.co.uk/

no minimum quants from what I remember.