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scotty365

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Everything posted by scotty365

  1. Hmmm my Hyperion is the only EP with a thread and it doesnt quite fit the m42 adapter. Ill have to investigate the scopetronix suggestion methinks - Thanks
  2. Greg - Havent got round to doing anything Afocal as yet but mounting the camera to an ep or however its done would be a question I'd probably be asking sooner or later. Thanks.
  3. It's probably glaringly obvious to you but as I'm still trying to master the basics.... Didnt realise that spare parts that came with the scope can be made to facilitate mounting the camera to it. Thanks.
  4. Ive got quite a few M42 lenses to go with my Canon 300D 50mm f1.7, 135mm, f2.8 200mm, f3.5 500mm f8 is it possible to use these on my scope? If so how would I mount this setup to the scope, or would it be better to stick with the E.P's? Thanks Scotty
  5. Be very careful not to cross the meridian when setting your alignments as the mirror moves "mirror slop" (reflectors at least) i.e if you are looking in the eastern sky choose a 2-3 star alignment in that quadrant but not too close to your target. I've found it hard work getting it working properly and i'm still struggling. GOOD LUCK! HTH Scotty
  6. Thanks everyone for your support and input - I used the 300D on its own on the skywatcher 200 no filters, the expo was for 50-60 seconds at ISO 800. Im having problems with alignment but it looks okay as far as trailing goes in the last set of pics. I used Photoshop to reduce the L.P and enhance the blue. Scotty
  7. The DAMN SCREW I knew it was that damn screw all along!!!! Seriously it was THAT DAMN SCREW.... Okay, I thought it was ment to have a point on the end of the screw simply to lock the circle without locking THE WHOLE DAMN MECHANISM. At least Im not alone in this! CC I was staring at the mount since 5 this afternoon thinking I must be doing something wrong. At least now I understand my alignment issue - thats fine as I've took time to understand the basics and a bit about how drift alignmentment works so its all much more clear now. The only bit of major concern now is the Skyscan centering - why is it ignoring the directional adjustments during alignment? Ive sent Bern a PM to see if he can shed some light on this. Thanks CC Scotty
  8. Ive been reading into setting this up properly and find that there is a hole drilled in the R.A setting circle which makes it impossible to set at zero as the locking screw goes into the hole and locks it to the R.A motion(which isnt even central) - This is getting so confusing am running out of enthusiasm now. Am trying to understand so hard and getting nowhere, most of the instuctions are so unclear and I'm at a loss now. Scotty
  9. I'm hitting the right button and it says"Alignment Successful" - Is there a problem with my Skyscan? Or settings? Scotty
  10. What I'm finding is that I polar align and go for a 1 star alignment, it slews to roughly the right place then asks me to use the directional keys to center the star - okay fine. If I then do the same alignment the scope moves back to where it slewed originally making centering pointless. If I try a 2- star alignment the 2nd star is way out of the FOV and again using the directional keys I center it and the alignment is rubbish. It seems its only good for short slews to the target from a 1 star alignment. Does anyone else have this problem? Scotty
  11. Im having a few problems getting my Skyscan to work accurately and I figure its down to my Polar alignment. There are a few dumb questions I need to ask as I cant find clear answers anywhere. 1. When I look thro the polar scope do I have to alter the R.A axis so that polaris is in the circle and big dipper (althought not in FOV) aligned to represent the diagram. 2. Also if this is the case how do I know if my scope is properly aligned as this adjustable. I've been positioning Polaris on the line and leaving the axis at zero degrees which may be close but Im sure something is amiss. Im getting ever more confused. Thanks Scotty
  12. They were 20 seconds but two of them were 10-15 seconds . ISO 800, no filters just the camera. I need to learn how to stack Jpegs in Registax - I think Im doing something wrong as the final image appears the same or similar to the original images. Scotty
  13. Okay here are a few of the expo's that I took - Ive had to reduce the image file size in order to upload but if anyone can show me the light as it were I'd be most please. I was having probs with light pollution looking at them now, also the moon was high and cloud was getting worse. Scotty
  14. Well I cant seem to figure how to stack my jpeg images in registrax properly, this is one that Ive tried to bring the detail out a bit with Photoshop - I really would like some help processing the exposures I got to try and get the most out of my efforts. Ive been reading up on using my setup but somethings come with experience I guess. As you can see the detail is there but not so evident on the original expo. Scotty
  15. Well it took me a while to figure this Skyscan but I think I'm taming it a little bit now :- It was the first time out in the field with my set-up and was limited by the moon and cloud. Ive had a play with the original image in Photo-shop but I'll post a better one soon as this is a bit over cooked! Scotty
  16. If you want to try it out first you can goto the torrents sites and get just about any version you wish and a whole load of astro stuff (ebooks etc...). You'll have to learn how to download them and avoid spamy stuff that gets distributed. Just remember that you really should be paying for it and this is just a means of "testing" to see if its what you want. Personally I think £500 for a software package is out of most peoples budget and not surprised to find its easy to get for free - on the other hand dedicated astro software is more difficult to come across as the torrent quickly dies from lack of interest from downloaders. I once saw Starry Night (latest one) on one of the sites but it quickly disappeared and at £30-£40 for a copy of essential software IMO is a small price especially when newer releases depend on you buying and not copying it. Scotty
  17. Is it possible to stream live images from the Canon 300D to a PC? If so, what would be the procedure? Thanks Scotty
  18. The LED came part of the Synscan upgrade and is in a plasic sleeve that fits into the "port" inside the cover of the mount behind the motors and infront of the motor board. It is of bad design from what I am experiencing as it is in the center of the FOV looking through it. the "front" of the LED is open while there is a plastic surround to hold it in place/reduce brightness around the sides. The whole thing is rediculous to look at as its basically a LED infront of the star that saturates the FOV in red - utterly hopeless no matter where i position it, either high or low. Scotty
  19. The trailing is due to your polar alignment being a long way off. Have you gone through the setup procedure in the manual and got Polaris in the little circle through your polar scope? If you have then the polar scope could need aligning or you have the tracking turned off. HTH Captain Chaos I was look at Google earth satalite images of our house today and realised that the house end faces virtually north but the garden is at a 10' or so angle thats not noticeable wen standing in it. Ive made an assumption that it would be somwhere close with the mount set at 53' but It was way out for imaging - I could kick myself for being so stupid. I couldnt align on Polaris as the red LED I put in as part of the Synscan upgrade was too bright, this is disconnected for now until I can figure a way to dim it down. I've read the manual and over looked this crucial part of setting up - next time I go out I'll spend some time doing it all properly, im guessing it will work as the tracking was on and okay for visual work, it makes sence why I had the problem now. Thanks to Google and everyone on SGL and especially CC who takes time out to answer my many questions in so much detail. Scotty
  20. Dont know if its been discussed on here before or just how useful it might be but here is a link to free astro software for Symbian phones (works on my N70) http://www.getjar.com/products/4951/Solunu Quite a nice bit of software for a freebie Scotty
  21. One other thing is how do I subtract a darkframe from the image? I presume that I make a image with no light getting in the camera at the same exposure length then use software to subtract the noise. Scotty
  22. ISO was set at 200 but I'll try that setting. How does ISO work? is higher more sensitive or am I missing something? (my understanding is that its to do with making the CCD more senitive to incoming light). It is at prime focus but cant use any filters till my adapter comes. Also how do I stack long exposure images as Ive only done it with AVI's from the Toucam Scotty
  23. By orientation do you mean 3 star alignment? Scotty
  24. I wouldnt know what to do with it in PS, especially with the trailing. I wanted to get out in the sticks tonight but other commitments came first. Hopefully I'll get chance soon but first I need to learn how to align properly - a few practises in the garden methinks Scotty
  25. This is my first shot at Andromeda with Synscan and 300D - Ive got alot to learn yet and the results prove it!! Ive never had goto before and never used the Canon 300D either - Ive done alot of reading up on things and found 2 mojors things 1. getting a good alignment/tracking setuo and 2. light pollution near the house is terrible for long exposures. Scotty
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