RobRob

I have also created a HTML version of the included installation instructions (in the readme.txt of the driver): Installation instructions for Raspiberry Pi HQ Camera ASCOM driver (musquetier.nl)

The 1.7.2 version available via the ASCOM site for download now also works with NINA (there was something missing in the installation instructions and the debug window was causing a freeze, these issues are now resolved).

9 minutes ago, AngryDonkey said:

Great stuff! Are there any sample all sky images taken with that camera?

You'll find some here: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/707144-new-raspberry-camera-v3-ascom-driver/page-4#entry10247998

I decided not to use Alpaca. I built a restful API using a php script (included in the readme file) which runs on the RPi (using apache and php). The driver interfaces with this script to initiate the image capturing and grab the image from the Windows machine and offer it to the client application.

16 hours ago, Gina said:

The lens I use is 1.55mm rather than 2.1mm FL - quite a difference.  But the expensive thing is the astro camera.  I think it's the camera that makes the Oculus so expensive.

What is the Oculus?

This solution uses the AllSky software of Thomas Jacquin which I altered to support the recently (May 1st 2020) RPi HQ camera sensor costing only €60.

Well, you should be able to find similar security camera lenses in the UK for reasonable prices (Google is your friend). Or otherwise elsewhere in Europe (this year it is still duty free ;-)!

Or search on alibaba.com for "fisheye lens cs"

http://www.m12lenses.com/2-1mm-F2-2-CS-Mount-Lens-p/pt-02120f.htm

I recently developed an ASCOM driver for the €60 new 12 Mpixel HQ camera sensor for the Raspberry Pi. With this driver the sensor can be used using software like Sequence Generator Pro. The software (with instructions in the enclosed readme file) is downloadable via https://www.musquetier.nl/downloads/RPiCameraV3_Setup.exe but will soon also be available via the ASCOM website.

Recently a High Quality (HQ) camera sensor for the Raspberry Pi has been released offering 12Mpixels for €60. Together with a Raspberry Pi (version 3 or 4), a SD card, a suitable housing and plastic dome a high quality AllSky cam can be realised for under €150. Download the software and read the instruction via https://github.com/RobboRob/allsky.

Hi Gina, I think that is really smart debayering while watching the screen for damage signs. This will provide a much better idea what is causing the damaging (instead of guessing for a root cause)!

Hi Gina, you might want to sell these to gain back a little cash to buy more DSLR sensors!!!

Any news on getting this resolved???

That's disgraceful.  I was saving for one of these scopes but I think I'll look elsewhere now.  

same here...

well done Alistair! Indeed now use it and show us what it is capable of...

I still have a Canon 60D sensor on my bench but after so many failures on the 350D sensors I didn't have any moments of courage to start debayering it...

@Xplode: Now that must be an awesome camera to use for narrowband!!! What's left is to put some cooling facilities on it and you are good to go!!!

Here a photo of the blasted sensor showing the soda has removed too much of the blue edges although these were covered by the mask. All the gold wires seem to be still attached.

Tried to remove the microlenses and CFA layer on an additional 350D sensor using soda blasting, and... black again. The process was really easy and fast, I created a small mask to ensure only the image area would be cleaned but nevertheless apparently more then needed got removed in the process.

I'll investigate the sensor later today using the microscope to see what has happened (any gold wires might have been disconnected due to the airflow???)

And another black 350D, this time the glass didn't want to come off at all. It scattered each time I tried to lift it. Eventually I was able to remove most of it (some glass left on the edge). This time I stayed away from any edge during the scraping. After scraping, cleaning and testing it it turned out to be broken as well. My theory is some glass particles on the sensor must have cut to deep grooves during the scraping...

I just did a third one, another one that bite the dust... (black again)

well the second 350D sensor I praticed on decided to turn to the dark force. No image, just blackness 

One more 350D sensor with working camera in stock to practice. I hope the next one will work better...

Does anyone has experience with debayering a 600D, 650D or 60D?

Is it difficult to remove the glass on any of these sensors?

you have some luck there... i've been looking for broken 1100D to try to debayer, unfortunalely, people seem to think broken items have some intrinsic high value attached to them. last dead 1100D i saw went for over 50 euros 

Maybe you'll be able to steal this one for 40 euro's: http://www.marktplaats.nl/a/audio-tv-en-foto/fotografie-camera-s-digitaal/m939669521-body-canon-eos-1100d-met-toebehoren-spiegelhuis-kapot.html?c=8c285449651fa109c354bbabe740c1b&previousPage=lr

I'm planning to do a second attempt. Either by soda blasting it or using the same scraping method applied a bit more carefull (without applying as much pressure) on a second 350D sensor I took from another broken 15 euro body...

Ok, today I was finally able to put the debayered sensor in a test 350D body and test it. I was happily surprised it still worked. I was 100% sure it was dead since I tried almost every trick in my book to try to get it cleaned. After putting back the filter frame I found it not particularly hard to stay away from the fragile gold wires or from the little circuitry on the side of the sensor while I was still able to remove most of the CFA layer at the edges. I had the feeling I could have removed all the visible CFA layer if I had wished...

After removing the mini lenses and the CFA layer with my cordon-blue stick using a 2x and 4x magnifying microscope I tried to clean it with demineralized water. This didn't work out well so I tried to get IPA but my local pharmacist doesn't sell it. I bought some denaturalized alcohol (96%) and cleaned the sensor with it repeatedly. still not really clean, after that I threw the sensor in a ultrasonic cleaning bath (I was sure it was toasted after that) and after this treatment the sensor surface still looks awful!!!

Also I worked the CFA layer a bit too hard in some area's. I should have let the Commandant 5 polish do its work instead of applying too much pressure on the cleaning stick. By doing so I managed to scratch the golden sensor layer in multiple areas which probably has caused the non working vertical line in the images below. 

Anyway, I'm still very pleased the camera and the sensor still work and disassembly and assembly of this first 10 euro test body produced a working debayered camera!!!

Debayered Flat:

Test Image: