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The Jackal

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Everything posted by The Jackal

  1. You now confusing me a whole lot. So you saying both my images are fine as the ISO 1600 image is around 1/3 from the left and the ISO800 image around 1/6th
  2. Would someone please suggest a method to fix this ? My Canon Camera when mounted onto my GSO 8" Crayford 2" Focuser seems to have a slight play on it. Now I am afraid this might impact my lights/dark's and bias frames when rotating the scope and the camera moves from its original position. I couldn't shot the effect on a photo so I uploaded a short video of it on youtube.
  3. I shoot with a Canon 700D and after stacking my images in Pixinsight I got this results (see photo). The glow doesn't show up on any of my images but yet it is there on the image. The final image took loads of cleaning up to remove the glow which was little visible no matter what.
  4. Thanks Pompey. I still think I should have shot my frames in ISO 1600 instead of ISO800 as the ISO1600 histogram shows the scaling closer to 1/3 on the image.
  5. Thank you Mike it explains it much better for me. Here is to two different ISO's with Histogram. Is it normal for the Blue to be spread so far wide on the ISO 1600 image? And also am I correct in saying the ISO 1600 image might have been the better image for the night is the histogram shows it around 3/1 or 4/1 from the left. The ISO 800 photo was little underexposed perhaps?
  6. Just on another topic regarding the tracking. I have an Advanced VX mount and on this night my tracking was quite good I think. I would have been able to take much longer exposure but thought ISO800 should be the minimum. Next time I will try ISO 400 and instead of 90seconds I will try and expose 240seconds or more. Here is the tracking results on PHD
  7. Sorry for not labeling the pictures but they go like this. The 1st image (bright green one) is when I stacked the images in Pixinsight. The 2nd image with little red in the Galaxy is the final image after Processing in Pixinsight. The 3rd image (darker one of the bottom or last two) is ISO 800. The 4th image (brightest one) is ISO 1600 @Dave I do have a LPF in my camera. @Mike or Pompey. Would you mind explaining the bit about the histogram? I dont know how to check this really with my DSLR or where it should be after one image. @Pompey. SCNR is always part of my process in Pixinsight. The very green image just looked funny. As you can see in my final image it was removed.
  8. Hi Guys. I would just like some advice on which ISO setting to use. I shot these photos in heavy light polluted sky's and at the time this photo was shot 3 days ago it was 4 days from full moon, 60% humidity and 23deg at night. The moon was behind a building so it did give me some visibility. I exposed both images 90seconds long as I felt longer exposure would be to bright so instead I tried to different ISO settings. The lighter image was shot in ISO1600 and the darker one ISO800. My question is with all the elements against me which would have been a better choice for stacking? My final question is when stacking the image in Pixinsight it came out very green. I didn't shoot any FLAT FRAMES but did have darks and bias frames. Is this green normal or did I do something wrong? Image details in Pixinsight: 21 Light frames ISO800 (90seconds), 15 Dark Frames (90seconds), 50 Bias Frames (Fastest Camera Speed). I have also loaded my Final image after calibration.
  9. Here is the image I manage to shoot last night. http://www.astrobin.com/228589/0/?
  10. So this is just an update with a question. I did an alignment last night and when I went to the opposite side of the meridian it somehow lost my calibration starts. Anyway, I think the alignment was good. Peter please let me know if this PHD graph is satisfactory. Can you also let me know if they say the opposite side of the meridian do they mean if I am on a star on the south close to the meridian, do I have to go to a star in the north close to the meridian or one just on the other side of the southern one but on the opposite side of the meridian?
  11. Thank you again Peter. Sorry for the dull questions but I just wanted to make sure.
  12. Okay so that explains allot. I just have a couple of questions. Sorry if they sound dumb, I just want to make sure I am doing it right. Updating Star Alignment Press Align – Undo sync – Enter (is this done on the same star I did the initial polar alignment on or another star?) Slew to one of the original alignment stars. (this is one of the 2 star alignment stars or calibration stars that I added?) Press Align – alignment stars – select star. (Lets say I used Canopus as one of my alignment stars. Do I go back to it?) Centre star – Enter- Align. Repeat for other Alignment star. (When you say for other Alignment stars, do I do it on all of them or just one or two?) Slew to bright star on opposite side of Meridian. (This is a new star that I didn't use for the alignment process or can I use one the I used when aligning?) Press Align – Calib stars – Enter. Centre star – Enter – Align. Press Back – Align – Polar Align – Display Align. (this is just to get a reading to see how for I am out?) Havnt used this function before.
  13. So after my polar alignment is complete, I can stay on the star unsync and do the hole process again? The manuals talks about "For additional all-sky pointing accuracy, it is a good idea to align on at least one additional calibration star located on the opposite side of the Meridian." Do they mean I have to unsync again and polar align on a star on the opposite side of the Meridian or is this just to add another calibration star? Thank you for the manual link. I must have skipped this complete. So glad you pointed this out as I hated the alignment process as it took me more than 1:30min to complete.
  14. Hi Peter. Thank you for the reply and advise. Which manual talks about the unsync and re-calibrate as mine didn't show that? Can you also please explain how to un-sync the scope and should this be done on the star that was just polar aligned? Also are you saying that Peacock is not a good star to work with as it is not on the Maridian ( its close'ish) ? The other thing is what do I do If I cant slew to the opposite side of the Meridian as I have building that block that side. I use Backyard EOS with my Canon Camera as a lens. Surely that should give me close enough to center?
  15. So I wanted to list my Alignment procedure as I am looking for advice to get more accurate alignment. Please would someone be so kind to explain to me where I am going wrong or where can I improve. First of all I live in the Southern Hemisphere so I don't have Polaris to point at. My mount also points South when setting up instead of North. I am constantly getting trails on my starts and cant find any proper setup instructions for the Advanced VX as the manuals setup guide is to basic and more for planetary use. Setup is as follow. 1. Level tripod and make sure peg on top points South'ish. 2. True South is -18deg for me so I make sure I accommodate for that and setup the peg pointing True South instead of Magnetic South. 3. After mounting everything that is needed like the Scope, weights and guiding camera I proceed to center everything in the home position. 4. Next I make sure my latitude is set on 27deg for my location then I switch the mount on. 5. Now I start a two star alignment and add around 3 calibration starts. 6. Next up I go to Peacock and start the Polar Alignment procedure. I polar align and adjust the scope with the hand controller as it is always out after two star alignment (including 3 calibration stars). I then proceed to adjust the latitude and altitude on the nobs in order to center the star in the scope. 7. After all this is done I go to the home position and re do everything again from step 5. I proceed to do this 3 times. I dont know if I am not picking calibrations stars or where I go wrong but my scope is never perfectly alligned and my stars trail after 1min exposure. I have tried Polar aligning the scope about 3 or 4 times in a row instead of parking it and starting everything over and this sometimes gives better results. As soon as the remote tells me "Polar Align is complete" I do it 3/4 times more. I have also tried Alignmaster and find it rather useless. Assistance would be highly appreciated.
  16. Thank you for the feedback Sub Giant. Weather will definitely be a factor for me as summers we have average temperature of 25deg/30deg and winters only go as low as deg during the night and early mornings but with 18deg/24deg winter days.
  17. Good thing you getting into Astrophotgraphy as it teaches you patients young Daniel Son
  18. I must agree I don't want to be disappointed when buying something else and not the thing I had my heart on. I just want to know that it is a good purchase as this CCD will almost cost what my hole setup cost. The Rand compared to dollar and pound is not in my favor at all with 1 Dollar at R15.00 and 1 Pound at R22.00 Here is my current equipment. Current setup: Mount: Celestron Advanced VX Scope: GSO 8" F/5 (http://www.teleskop-...larauszug.html) Guiding Camera: Orion Starshoot Camera: Canon 700d/T5i Filters: Baadar MkIII Field Flatner, LP Filter Software: Pixinsight, Photoshop
  19. Yea that was my thoughts that the chip is the expensive part. I don't mind manual wheels at all but just don't know which one to look at that will fit the 383L. Do I have to worry about over and under exposing as described in the "Choosing a CCD Camera" section?
  20. Hi Guys. I need some expert advice no my first CCD Mono camera. I have looked at the forum post which is pinned called "Choosing a CCD Camera" and although the details are very nice it is also very confusing. The studying I have done over the weekend has pointed me to the ATIK 383L+ MONO. The ATIK 313L is also a very nice option but the small pictures you get from it is just not for me. When comparing all these cameras in CCDCalc i was most impressed with the picture size the 383L+ delivers. What I would also like to know is if there is a more affordable option with same resolution and pixel size over the 383L+ as it is quite over my budget. For the life of me I don't see why Filter Wheels are so expensive but the camera including a Atik Filter Wheel will set me back about $2500 and then adding filters which I haven't even looked at. My budget is very tight and the $1000/$1500 max was what I was aiming for. Should I rather stick with my current setup and wait for prices do drop over the next year or two or save some extra money quick and splash out on the ATIK 383L, Atik Filter Wheel and Astronomic filters? Current setup: Mount: Celestron Advanced VX Scope: GSO 8" F/5 (http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p49_GSO-200-mm-f-5-Newtonteleskop-Optischer-Tubus---2--Crayford-Okularauszug.html) Guiding Camera: Orion Starshoot Camera: Canon 700d/T5i Filters: Baadar MkIII Field Flatner, LP Filter Software: Pixinsight, Photoshop
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