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Posts posted by oldannie

  1. That makes sense Michael, for a while I had better results doing a two star alignment with stars near my target as like you it's normally one target a night.  Will try your suggestion though. In the meantime I now have star trailing on two or three of my images - to me that suggests something is moving though not sure how to start diagnosing it!!

    Thanks for the suggestion Michael - much appreciated.


  2. I've started to have alignment problems with my NEQ6 and synscan. Am aware that there could be a number of causes. I don't think it's an optical problem but some kind of mechanical problem.  Until now I have always done a three star alignment and wonder if it's significant that it is the third alignment star that is now never anywhere to be seen? I have re polar aligned using polemaster as usual and done a factory reset so am looking for the next issue to consider.  So frustrating on clear nights to take over an hour to align and find my target!!



  3. If you  want to spend some money try Adam Block's Pixinsight tutorials - he does two: Fundamentals and Horizons.  Have got the first one and think it exceptionally good and comprehensive.  A lot of hours of video tuition which means you can run Pixinsight alongside and follow what he is doing. All in all very well presented and very clear explanations.



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  4. I use Lacerta MGEN as a stand alone guider so not sure Sharpcap Pro would be appropriate?  Am not convinced that polar alignment is the cause of the poor alignment as polemaster has always seemed a pretty good tool.  Have always tried to avoid too much computer involvement as I fear if I move  in that direction I shall be moving beyond my level of competence!  However I suppose nothing ventured nothing gained!!




  5. At the end of last season I was beginning to despair about alignment issues and with the prospect of a few clear nights thought I would try and rectify the issue but am far from clear about the cause.  I image with Takahashi 106, Atik 460 on NEQ6 which I control using the handset.  I polar align using polemaster and as far as I can tell it's accurate.  I three star align though usually have to search for stars as they are often low and left in my capture software - Artemis.  Any target was usually very low.  

    I was thinking about doing a factory reset?  I also wonder if I slew to an alignment star but instead of using the handset to centre it what would happen if I centre it manually using the the altitude and azimuth adjustments?  Might that redress the issue?


  6. Am planning to buy a C9.25 specifically for lunar/planetary imaging and will be using it on my HEQ5 with a ZWOASI74.  I want to add some kind of focuser to this set up but not sure what to consider so would appreciate some advice.  Although my DIY skills have improved since I started deep sky imaging they're not great so looking for something fairly straightforward.  Budget is not a huge issue. (but not limitless!!)



  7. I usually stack in DSS and process in photoshop but recently bought Registar and used it for the first time yesterday as I have some Ha, LRGB subs (taken over several nights) of M101 which I would like to align and combine.  All the LRGB subs are 300sec, 1x1 binning and imaged through Baader 7nm filters. The Ha subs are 600secs, binning 1x1 using Chroma 3nm filter.  Am happy with the process of aligning and cropping/padding each channel in Registar but am confused about combining each channel and then aligning the Ha and Luminance with the RGB  file.  If I use DSS to stack each channel a 32 bit tif file is produced which Registar will not open.  I get the following message ' Please ensure the file has not been compressed using a proprietary compression scheme' ? 



  8. I am replacing two Baader 7nm filters with two Chroma 3nm narrowband filters, 36mm unmounted into an Atik EFW2.  Have replaced one but am not sure I've done it correctly so before I fit the second one would appreciate some help.  It's a different design from the Baader - deeper  and I haven't managed to get it to fit as flush as the Baader ones?  The Baader filters are mounted on a rubber ring and screws with little white spacers are used to secure the filters so  they are flush.  I've assumed I should do the same with the Chroma filters though the rubber ring is very fiddly to fit - I've just dropped it in until it looked ok and then dropped (gently!!) the filter on top ?   It's all a bit nerve racking thinking about how much I've paid for the filters!!


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