ardbeg74
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Posts posted by ardbeg74
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Hi,
they dont have an email on their website http://www.laas.org/
But Brantuk has updated his post with their facebook page.
Im off to bed now, have a good day. Hope the rain stops for ya.
Laters
Mark
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It just the shape of mirror in your scope.
http://amazing-space.stsci.edu/resources/explorations/groundup/lesson/basics/g12/
Im just guessing though, whether or not that would create the problem you are having..
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Hi swtbliss,
We will see what they guys say, need to know if they can tell whats wrong when you pick the images
Might be Saturday before I can do it, have to go out tomorrow and might be dark when i get back.
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Hi Guys,
If i create a sequence of daytime tree images, of varying degrees from total blur to perfect focus and the OP chooses ones which are similar, do you think this will help?
From a perfect focus I can even knock my collimation out of whack in varying degrees.
I know the OP has tried the 10mm and 20mm, just hard to accept that its an ep problem... I would have thought the primary would have been qc'd at the factory, maybe they put a spherical in it when it should have been a para or something. If they laser collimated that, might be spot on but image would be blurred??
Mark
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They look like a similar design to the stock SW eps, so there are probably no lenses in the tube.
If you turn it upside down you can see if there is a lens in the metal tube or whether the lenses are only in the top.
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Image of it with EP folded down.
Looks pretty similar....
http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02159/ATelescope_2159965i.jpg
swtbliss, can you take a pic of the scope with the focuser extended all the way, and from the side please. So we can see if its extending all the way.
Cheers
Mark
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Hi Kirscovitch,Yea it does feel like that. Not really buying the collimation being out myself. When i got my scope the secondary was loose, 2nd night of viewing only half the primary was visible through the focuser barrel, but was still able to focus somewhat though image was way off axis. But thats an f8, dunno how different it is for faster scopes?Dont imagine both EP's being defective / covered in grease or something either.swtbliss8 - check the top of the focuser, mine has a lock knob. wondering if this is partially screwed down preventing full range of movement. There is some slop in the SW focusers so maybe stopping it going all the way in ???CheersMark
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Hi Again,At work... being very productive todayOk had a think about your problem, first thing, check that you dont have the barlow lens in (if your scope came with one)Its a tube with a lens at one end and an eye piece fits on the other end. It increases the magnification of the eyepiece you are using. ( technically it changes the refraction of the light rays to mimic a longer focal length telescope)You dont want to be using that for testing with right now.The other thing is checking that the scope is collimated correctly. My scope has a longer focal length than yours so collimation isnt as critical for me, but perhaps it has a much bigger impact for you.The following links should help, first one is a video, 2nd one is an in-depth guide.You will need either a 35mm film tub lid with a pin hole in the centre, or i guess you could use a bit of stiff card. Draw round one of your eyepiece caps and make a pin hole in the center of the card. Can attach to the focuser barrel with tape or blu-tak.The hole is just to help make sure you are looking directly down the optical axis.Give this a try and let us know how you get on....CheersMark
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Sorry, wife is reminding me to go to bed
Got work tomorrow 
Dont worry, we will figure this out, Im sure its easily solved. Tons of great people on here with bags of experience. And worst case, its under manufacturers warranty so short delay till you get up and running again.
Laters
Mark
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Hmm,
Well newtonians are mechanically pretty simple instruments really, just two mirrors and an eyepiece, so its got to be mirrors or eyepieces / focuser tube i guess.
The focuser tube is extending all the way? its not stuck or stiff is it?
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Hi There, welcome to the forum!
When you try to focus, does the image appear to be getting sharper but just doesnt reach focus or is it just always blurry? Or does it appear to get sharp then just begin to blur again as you adjust the focuser?
What were you looking at? was it a star or a planet or the moon, or just everything you tried to look at was blurry?
Did you buy it new or used? If its used it could need collimated (sounds painful but its not... really), but if new then usually spot on.
Its kind of late now, but maybe you can try it during the day with the 25mm eye piece. ( Just be very careful not to point it any where near the sun!!! and keep the scope covers on (including the finder covers) if you have to leave it for any time) You will need a pretty far target to get focus on, say around 50+ m away. This will give you a chance to check over everything again in day light.
Some times we can miss things when we are excited to get out and view. I left my eyepiece cover on last week because i was in a hurry to change eye pieces while looking at the moon
Had to scratch my head for a min till i realised what i'd done Also have a look inside the tube, you never know, could be a bit of packing material in there or something
Let us know how you get on.
All the best
Mark
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Declination Axis
in Getting Started General Help and Advice
Posted
Nice one Tommohawk, downloading that inclinometer app now.
I noticed that RA offset at the weekend and also the offset on the dec dial. Its been on my mind since.
Bought a spirit level to help get the scope perfectly level and also stuck some aligning labels on the RA axis so i could tell when the weight bar is parallel to the ground. Now just need a 30 or 40mm ep so i can actually see the stars rotating round the ncp when i flip the RA axis by 180 degrees.... 25mm EP was a little constricted for that.
Even so, was the best polar alignment i've had yet (no polar scope either). But at least it seems like the offsets are just compensating for something in the design of the mount.
Cheers
Mark