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Posts posted by sidelight
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several people including myself use ankle weights attached to the OTA to counter balance the camera etc.
Cheers
Ross
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Thanks Ross. Collimation has got me worried after getting squarish stars in Baader MPCC III. The secondary holder itself looked a slight displaced from the centre when seen with the cap (not up-down the telescope tube..but the other direction). I rotated the secondary, it looks ok now. How tolerant is collimation in this scope?
Ishan.
Its a fastish scope and will benefit from being right. In the end, after trying several times, I ended up stripping mine right down squaring the focuser, resetting the spider etc. Now its right....
If its all out, it may be as well to at least start nearer the beginning and check your secondary is central in the spider.
As well as astro babys fantastic guide http://www.astro-baby.com/collimation/astro%20babys%20collimation%20guide.htm I recommend watching these videos which take you end to end - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zd-fl9SEYHw
Collimation is not as bad as you fear, you just need to get each stage correct and it all falls into place. If you rush a stage and assume its "good enough" you will end up going round in circles, as I did, trying to correct an error should have been corrected before. Allow yourself plenty of time the first time, and know its going to be frustrating. Once done it takes a couple of minutes when you set up just to tweak things back to where they should be.
Cheers
Ross
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As far as I am aware the secondary should be centred and concentric in the cap. The offset comes in later when you align the primary with the secondary.
Cheers
Ross
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Louise,
I noticed that a small chunk of it is missing. There was someone who also mentioned having it in this thread, but i don't remember if he/she corrected it. Do you know how to get rid of that? Thanks
I had a similar problem, never needed to cut my tube, turned out for me when I modded my DSLR my light pollution filter was not cutting IR and UV very well - I had removed the Baader internal one I had fitted as I had problems getting it seated perfectly and this produced star halos. Adding a filter for those cleared things up. Once the filter was in place and the focus nailed it went away never to be seen since (touch wood), I learnt some lessons there during a prolonged period of bad weather to change things one at a time as I had tinkered with just about everything between them showing up and finally getting to the bottom of things.
Cheers
Ross
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I use a couple of jubilee clips joined together and strung around the scope and the ankle weights seems to work a treat.
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I can only tell you my experience, with a large band around the top of my scope and a dew shield fitted I've never had a problem with my secondary. I did buy a mirror heater but never fitted it as I would have had to deal with the wires on the spider and I never needed it. I can only suggest to try it and see.
Cheers
Ross
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Hi, I place mine between right at the front of the scope over the dew shied (or under it when in was a foam one) and have never had a problem with the secondary dewing up.
Cheers
Ross
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It would be good if it did, but the scope ring is already nearly against the focuser. I could move the rings to the other side but that's a little too close to the edge for me to be happy when balancing the scope. It would also potentially interfer with dew shields and things.
Cheers
Ross
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
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You know I hadn't thought of doing that I had got as far as looking to see if the mechanism could be turned upside down (it can't) and never considered spinning the shaft. Thank's Lenny I guess I will be getting the screwdrivers out later this evening and solving that issue.
Cheers
Ross
Unfortunately there is a locking grub screw on the fine control side that there is no hole for on the other, and it is needed to clamp the gearbox in place. So it can't be turned around without drilling and taping a new hole, I don't have the equipment for that
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Ross you can turn the knobs round the other way , undo the 4 outer studs and the focuser back plate will come off and swop the shaft the other way round ( don't forget the 4 rubber o'rings )then readjust
Lenny
You know I hadn't thought of doing that I had got as far as looking to see if the mechanism could be turned upside down (it can't) and never considered spinning the shaft. Thank's Lenny I guess I will be getting the screwdrivers out later this evening and solving that issue.
Cheers
Ross
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Hi Ross,
I did try one of these adapters and I didn't see much difference: still I got some tilt when I tightened up the screws. Balancing hasn't been an issue for me as you can spin the tube in the rings and shift it up and down (and I have the MPCC+filter wheel+ camera),
cheers
E.
Thats a shame, it could have been a solution.
The balancing issue for me is not helped as I use the finder scope as a guider, so with DSLR etc the scope is front heavy. There just isn't enough scope to hang out the back of the tube rings to get it in balance for me. I need to finish off the counterweights I was fiddling with to compensate.
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I was looking at these replacement focuser 2" adapters, with a compression ring but at 39€ was wondering if anyone else had tried, and found them any good?
The only other thing I find with the scope is that with cameras etc on it is a pig to balance, often the focuser knobs end up right against the tube rings, the longer side (ie the one with the fine focus knob) is the inner adjusters, it would have been good to have them the other side.
Cheers
Ross
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It does depend on what you want to image. Both these scopes are around f5, the 130 is 650 mm fl, the 150, 750 mm fl I believe. The difference is not huge and a lot of the DSO objects shot are still bigger than a single mosaic frame on the 130Pds. To be honest either is supposed to be a good scope but the 130 is slightly easier to handle for the mount.
Cheers
Ross
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
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Just had this problem for the first time after fitting self made dew shields.
Any idea what weights to attach to the backside??
I'n still working on a permanent fix, at the moment I have a couple of jubilee clips joined together to go around the scope with ankle weights hanging from them. Not pretty and needs better distribution really. I'm thinking of using a strip of roofing lead and fixing that around the base of the scope so I can wrap that around evenly.
Cheers
Ross
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The only challenge I find with the 130PDS is with a finder guider, DSLR and dew shield on it really needs a counterweight at the back as it is so short you can't shift it in the tube rings enough to compensate and balance, Thats the next project though and should be a simple fix
Cheers
Ross
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+1 SW 0.9 coma corrector
Same here
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Imaging with the 130pds
in Getting Started With Imaging
Posted
I found 22500 ADU about right for my 383 so that's what I aim for.
Cheers
Ross
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk