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Everything posted by Keithp

  1. We have lift off!!!!!# clear skies and hook up...first time in the oby..typing as I go First job, lets make sure all the scopes are pointing at the same thing
  2. Roof is off, making sure the lappy is talking to everything:hello2: wey heh we're off for a session tonight. Report later on how it goes...I've waited for this so long since finishing..
  3. [quote name=6' date=' re warm room, if i ever put one in, my intention would be to place it under the rails for the roll off roof, but in short-term, an 8x8 should be large enough to allow some space, if not fully comfortable; where would your door be as this will impinge on space 7, go as large as you can get away with hope is of some help and not just adding to questions Excellent idea, never thought of that:headbang: I am using the space under the roll off for the strawberry patch as I can put netting up down the sides of the supports. But that is definitely the place to put the warm room....maybe next year... Regards Keithp
  4. Here's a link to the basic type I bought from Amazon Trigano Deluxe Metal Apex Shed 6 x 6: Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors There are larger sizes though, I'd probably go for an 8X8 now, but that's cause I got a 10" newt in there with me!!! Must admit though it might get a bit cold over winter. Probably going to set in some insulation later on in the year. Regards Keithp
  5. You need to consider how you're going to put the shed up. In my case, because I was using a metal shed with a roll off roof I knew I'd have to build a re-enforcing framework under the skin as the rigidity would be lost with the roof rolling off. Bearing that it mind I bought 2.7m corner posts for the frame so I could in effect jack the shed up and down to determine the ideal height for the walls in relation to the pier. You need to work out whether you're going to adjust the pier to the shed wall height or adjust the shed wall height to the pier. In my case I knew I had adjustment in the frame I would build. So just blindly went ahead with the pier to take whatever I could think of I might upgrade to. After setting the pier in place I could then adjust how high I set the floor of the the shed in relation to the pier. But in hindsight I'd still have gone for a bigger shed..but hey ho.. it works and I'm pleased with the small footprint. I've since modded the south side so I have unrestricted views over most of the south horizon I can see. Regards Keithp
  6. One thing that did occur to me while putting up the metal shed. It's modular type of design means I would be able to extend it and add a 'warm room' separate to the observing room. I'm a bit restricted in the site I chose, but quite happy with what I've got. The way the metal sheds go together though does leave lots of options open to extend at a later date. Regards Keithp
  7. Pent shed means you have to decide which way you are going to roll the roof off, sideways... fore or aft. Either fore or aft is difficult because you're going to be either rolling off down hill or uphill. So sideways makes sense. So you need the size of the shed to one side of where you're going to situate it. Got to admit the metal sheds go up a treat and if you knock up the base frame first you have a marker to put on the ground to set the shed foundations up. See what I did. http://stargazerslounge.com/diy-observatories/109863-been-bit-busy.html Given the chance of doing it again I'd probably go for an 8 X 7/8 as it gives you more distance from the wall edges to the scope, bearing in mind you need to have the scope as high as possible yet still allow the roof to roll off. Regards Keithp. Give me a shout if you have any further questions.
  8. Here you go, a bit 'Dads Army', but open roof 1, 2, 3...lower flap 1, 2, 3...remove rail 1, 2, 3, upscopes...1, 2, 3. Hope you all like it. Hoping for some clear skys tonight...
  9. There was one shot that went right to left...but as you say...hmmm dubious
  10. Hello All, My local Postie, who just delivered my new camera tripod hopefully to catch some percides tonight, remembered he'd delivered a telescope to me a few months/years ago.....had a look at the roll off / roll on observatory and was hooked. I think he may be on here shortly. Give him a welcome. His name is Andy. Excellent bloke...nice to know. If/when he asks I'll be helping him out plus anything you can add. I think he's about to treat himself to something but may need a bit of guidence...which I'm sure he'll get from here. Regards Keithp
  11. Insurance....I don't believe it....it's a rip off. erm...build the observatrory to a high security standard. Why should you even think about compensation for something you want to indulge in? If you're in a high risk area don't do it... you weigh up the risk. I've just finished building an observatory/roll/on/roll off roof... Do you honestly expect me to increase your household insurance premiums for this...I don't think so. Regards All Keithp
  12. I've got the Canon 500d, not much experience yet. Few pics up though. Been working on other projects. The time I have used it though I've been pleased with the results..must admit seemed a bit weird spending about £569 (few months/years ago) on something I only now use for astrophotography compared with £120 for a Fuju S5700 for everyday use seems a bit extravagant. But the Canon rules.....for astro work. Regards Keithp
  13. I'd agree with all before. Before doing my pier I checked out the curing time for concrete. I dug and shuttered the base on day 1 with rebar already in situe and poured. Second day (put the tube pier former in place after 5hrs of doing the base) then poured the concrete into the pier tube, had a piece of wood that fitted inside the tube and allowed me to tamp every pouring into the tube. The chemical reaction between the base and tube had not started fully between the 2 days, so along with the rebar re-enforcing and the semi-cured concrete I have a solid mounting. Tested it with a 30 second exposure while I whacked the base with a hammer....rock solid. http://stargazerslounge.com/diy-observatories/109863-been-bit-busy.html Regards Keithp
  14. Here's what's under the skin on the south side, the metal rail lifts out when the roof has rolled off. I've cut the south wall level with the beam dropped down about 1/3rd. Working on hinge config so it lowers quietly...keep the neighbours happy:headbang: First shot from inside so you can see how the turnbuckles operate second from outside with the skin off. Third..well that's HMS Victory. New project. Regards All Keithp
  15. Just been out, refined the PA..10 mins. And off to bed...early start.
  16. Many thanks for the compliments all. Julian I think the only problem with what you suggest will be you have to attempt some kind of PA before you can start. But fine for visual work. I suppose it would mean you don't have to carry the tripod legs out every night and so long as rain isn't forecast you could leave the mount covered over. That was really bugging me when temps dropped to -8C during the winter. Now I can just pull the roof back over, lock it down...job done 5mins and go to bed. The size of shed I got was 6ft X 6ft, in hindsight I might have gone bigger as that would allow more of the horizon to be seen from the mounted scopes. But I'm modding the south side to hinge down to overcome that, done the internal work already so the channel the roof runs down is removable. I'll post up more on the mods later. Regards All Keithp
  17. I put together the base frame that the walls attach to first. This gave me a good idea of how much space it would take up when finished. It was a tight fit in the location I chose but the rose bush and arbour to the right of the site was going anyway. I already knew that I would need to support the structure internally as the roof would be sliding off and so most of the rigidity would be lost. Using 2.4m fence posts I also knew I would have some adjustment when it came to setting the height in relation to the pier height. Putting the base frame on the ground gave me locations to dig the holes and set the posts in. After that it was time to dig the hole for the pier. Balancing some offcuts across the hole allowed me to position the metal tube to give me some idea of where the re-bar had to go. Once that was sorted the re-bar was then wired together and braced. Put the shuttering up then concreted in. I put the tube in place and levelled it about five hours after pouring the concrete. The following day the tube was filled and the pier adapter set in place, not forgetting to make sure plate adjuster peg was set to north. I also set in to the concrete beneath the plate a small glass bowl to allow the nut and bolt that screws into the mount holding to the plate room to extend below the level of the top of the pier. Next job was to set the height of the walls. Loaded the pier up with the mount and tube rings, pegged the base frame to the posts and using a corner section of the wall adjusted the height of the base frame. This gave me the height that I knew I needed to clear when the roof moves off. After putting in the floor joists using joist hangers and the cross beams I put the walls up following the instructions that came with the shed. The wheels for the roof were ordered from Screwfix and the channel they run in was from Wickes. They do a nice range of coated pressed steel channel in 3M lengths, only just over a £5 per length. It does have small round holes cut every metre or so in the channel but Wickes also do a nice range of washers that almost look like they were pressed from the channel:) so it was easy to buy oversize washers, araldite them to the correct size washers and then aradilte these to the channel and fill the holes.
  18. I'll try and post a more detailed write up tomorrow. Bit late now. There are a couple of 'gochas' you have to consider, mind it would also apply to a wooden shed as well. Thing is the shed only cost me £32 (rest was amazon vouchers from surveys) so I didn't mind hacking it about a bit. Wood cost about £100, tube £30 odd, plus the pier adapter. I reckon I've built the whole thing for less than £500.
  19. Very true, used to take about 45mins to an hour before I could start. Now it's about 5 mins tops to undo the turnbuckles and roll the roof off. Just not had a clear night since I finished. http://stargazerslounge.com/diy-observatories/109863-been-bit-busy.html
  20. Okay hands up:D My fault, just finished building my roll on roll off observatory...with pier. Sorry folks:o
  21. Clip pipe is used in air con systems. They do deliveries, 1 piece 1m X 450mm. Get's delivered by courier. I poured the concrete the day after doing the base. The rebar extends down from the top into the base and down into a deeper plug I dug out beneath the base. So the base is about 4ft square, 2ft deep with a further 1ft deeper directly beneath the pier. As a test the other night while PAing the mount I put the camera on and did a 30 sec exposure and whacked the base with a hammer...absolutely nothing on the picture...it's rock solid
  22. Hi Mick, the tube was from DO - Ducting Online - Clip Pipe Really good stuff, put re-bar inside and wire it all up and fill with concrete. I used 450mm wide, reckon that should take care of any potential upgrades:D
  23. And finally, scopes are in and the mount is PA'ed. The wall to the right of the scopes is due south and following a severe haircut for the roses growing over the arbour to the side...and finally pulling the arbour down, I've modded the side so the top 1 third folds down. The track running on top of the beam has also been modded so it is removable. Any questions fire away. Still waiting for the first clear night since I finished it:mad: Typical!! Regards All
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