tonedeaf

Off the top of my head; yes.

On another note, I hope the milling that has to be done is in the mount and not the center hole in the wheel!

/p

i think that it has to be done on the mount as the pulley should be bigger for the desired ratio.

hopefully this year (after i by the modding kit) i will know more

i asked about it, that it may be, due to the fact that after the mod you can still use the synscan handcontoller -> so it must be the same gear ratio...

that maybe one of the pulleys will need some more place than the gear normaly has.

he said that there weren´t any photos

only the fact that his hungarian colleague needed around 3-4 hours for the work -> ~ € 240,-

Hi all, i am thinking really strongly about doing this mod, i have thought of using the kit from telescope-austria, that kit is working with the original ratio so the SW GoTo works right?

And why not change the worm-bearings at the same time? so what SKF-bearings should i use?

i had a talk lately with tommy from telescope austria, regarding the moding kit...

problem is with the kit that you will need a "workshop" as there are some "parts" that need to be ?milled? or anything else.

he couldn´t tell it for sure, cause his hungarian colleague who makes this mods, hasn´t made a "instruction" for it

i´ve asked for photos if there are any so that i can make a picture on what has to be done...

so therefore with this moding kit it would be wise to send the eq-6 in

one moment i looked at the RC10 difference in weight...

please correct me...the weight diff is around 0,5kg!

so for an 15kg OTA thats about 3%

so i would say the weigt is not an issue in this case....

the only thing i can think of is the thermic insulation and the heat contraction.

the heat contraction in combination with the alu-bars (cause they contract) is pointless...

on the other hand the insulation seems to have it´s pros and cons...

but the biggest con i´ve heard of are the baffles....

where heat "pockets" build up and can give some "seeing" issues...

http://www.nightsky.at/Art/8inch_GSO_RC/

(sorry this link is in german, but he describes the problem with the baffles, also heard from this from my local dealer who uses a RC10)

huch panasonic is working!

i think the given value of 50-70% might be right...

but on the other side how much loss is there w/o the microlenses 30-40% or more?

there is no info given anywhere...just the photos that where here made...

the comparsion shots will reveal the truth

that was the killing of mine...nothing changed, took a screwdriver (very small one) and scratched lightly ...hurrray a change! used it, made a pause connected the camera -> no image and the sensor´s going hot...

have to try it someday with a 450D, but first i´ll try to by a normal webcam to debayer it, cause i want to try the qhy5II as a dso cam, so i´ll need a "second" guiding cam

I broke 3 PS3 eyes and gave up. In hindsight, I think the stanley knife was the wrong tool for the job...

it seems to be that the ps3 eye bayer matrix is constructed in an other way...even after scraping with a "self" built scraping tool nothing changed....

maybe using a microscope like 12dstring is the only way to go

very nice video!

have to say that i broke my ps3 eye cmos while trying to debayer

at least i learned something...

for all the ps3 eye protective glas is easy to remove, not like on the eos 1100d

thanks gina, i appreciate your efforts with the "sticky" glas cover

as i have seen the 350D seems to be easier...

maybe i´ll do a cooling mod too...

mmh...peltier etc...don´t know if a temperature regulation would be needed...

don´t want to dissmantle my 550D-allround workhorse

sorry to highjack the thread so late...

...@ all the scrapers and modders here...hats off!

i thought recently about something like that (sleepless nights haunt me ) but this is a thing i have to try...maybe on a cheapo 350D

rgds