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About philr

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  • Interests
    Other than the blindingly obvious:
    Radio controlled model aircraft
    Shooting; shot gun and air rifle
    Natural history
  • Location
    Near Shepton Mallet, Somerset

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  1. Hi All, I am selling up all my kit, including the Arduino dew control system. Fully functional and amazingly good. If you are interested in saving yourself time, money and frustration please ask me about it.
  2. hello guys, Does anyone have experience of Tectron auto collimators? Phil
  3. Could be you simply have a duff one Trev- hard luck! I didn't cut any wiring out, I just made certain they were separated properly.
  4. I have my green wire on the Pulse PSU permanently connected to ground. It has been fine like this for the three weeks or so that I've had it. It doesn't need any resistors in line. Look up ATX PSU connections on the web, you will find plenty out there which gives good info. You could also query it with the vendor. He will tell its out of warranty by messing with it, but we all know that. Have you made sure that the two 12V rails are kept separate? You can check this as they are each slightly different in actual voltage. 12.1 and 12.2 if I remember rightly. Also check the -12V and 3.3V and 5V f
  5. TIP120's are what I use and have done exactly what you have said; its works. Phil
  6. Yes Trev, you must take the Green wire to ground to enable the PSU.
  7. Trev, yes of course. It has 12V outputs for SATA drives and non SATA drives. The SATA connectors are the black ones moulded onto the wires. The non Sata connectors are chunky white plastic with crimp sockets. Both types have black wires for common or ground, and yellow wires for plus (+) 12 Volts. I have taken two black and two yellow wires from each, then wired each pair of wires in parallel to form two separate 12 Volt outputs. Both capable of up to 18 Amps. I am using 4mm banana type connectors used for connecting model aircraft LiPo batteries. These are reliable, robust and don't creep apa
  8. If anyone is looking for a suitable 12 Volt high wattage power supply, then you need to consider what I have just done. I found that my nominally 5 Amp PSU was dipping below 11.2 V when all heaters were on. I had a look around for 10 A PSU's. but they can be quite expensive. The solution was an ATX desk top computer PSU. These have multiple outputs. The one I have just bought is this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140903967308?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Bags of power and has two 12V output levels: 12.1V and 12.2V. I simply cut off the standard PC connectors and soldere
  9. What have you got left to do Jason? Looks like the next add on to mine will be variables control via Android mobile phone. More on this in due course. Shame about the cancellation of the Beckington Astro meeting. Will I see you in February? Phil
  10. My latest working sketch is attached. All variables brought out of the loop and has automatic Dallas sensor address detection. Phil sketch_DewCrtl4_20121220_pinmodematch_v1_7.zip
  11. Hi Astroandy, The sketch is mine being derived from 'mitaccio' on the cloudynights forum. Yes, it is intended to work with either the DHT11 or DHT22 without having to change anything. The dht.cpp library file has been altered to automatically recognise the DHT type. At some time I will be changing things a bit in the sketch so DHT22 is used throughout. I now have a new sketch that brings all variables out from the 'void' parts of the sketch. One aspect of this is that the Dallas sensors no longer need to have the hex codes typed in. The sketch automatically detects them; all you have to do is
  12. Fingers crossed Gina. I'm just itching to get all this gear going for photography. A new OAG which I've only been able to barely set up. Backyard EOS to play with, and PHD for guiding; all new stuff for me..... Could some late nights early mornings on the way, or work in the dark, sleep in the light! AND, dew free. I think I'll start going through all your work on the cooling system: always something to do and spend money on.
  13. Gina, I'm using the Uno R3. The PWM rate of the sketch is only 10 Hertz, I imagine this is why it doesn't matter which pins are used for outputs. The Arduino UNo is marked up as pins 3, 5, 6, 9, 10 & 11 as PWM. I have no idea why 4 of these were not chosen in the first place. However, for this excercise it makes no difference. What I haven't yet seen, is an exact definition of Arduino PWM; I presume it is to do with clock speed and transition times, i.e. how good is the square wave. Other stuff: I have now converted the EOS 450D I bought just a couple of weeks ago; with the Baader filter.
  14. Gina, Yes those are the PWM outputs. It doesn't matter which pins you choose really, as long as there will deal with PWM. The arduino is marked with some specifically as PWM, however, the guy who started all this chose not to use them as outputs: it matters not. Please ask anything you like about the code and I will try to give you a correct answer. What I can tell you is that it works just fine without changing anything; its up to you. I'm still learning the code, so I'm not yet totally conversant with it. So, I've ordered another Arduino kit to play with, then I can get to grips with the cod
  15. Re- BlueTooth. This may come along in the not too distant future. What I plan to do first though is to develop variables control via the IDE serial monitor. Intially this will be for adjusting temperature differentials and duty cycles. Another add-on is a Real Time Clock (RTC). I'm looking at various Arduino compatible modules on ebay. The code should be hatched soon. So. when implemented I'll fire off the revised sketch, which is going to have a lot more comments in it too. Phil PS: I think I'm going to have to buy a bigger box, no room for anything else in my current one!
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