Ratlet

I feel ya bud.  I've gone to a 30 minute rule:

If the AP takes more than a 30 minutes to get running, then it gets turned off so I can understand your reluctance.

Hopefully you'll get on better with the new setup.

Replacement unit arrived today.  Quick test with a 5 minute exposure and no sign of the glow.  Delighted.  Very good service from Altair and the problem was quickly resolved.  Now for some clear skies to get some imaging done woop!

Checked against that website (thanks for sharing, that's getting saved on my phone for sure!) this morning and it should have been front and central last night about 9:45pm.

I think half my issue is I'm not spending enough time observing the planets to pick up enough detail.  should probably get the zoom involved as using my fixed eyepieces I've got x80 and x160 and i suspect the seeing will support somewhere in between most nights.

Success!  No more bullseyes.  Unfortunately the Hypercam is off for repair so I could only test with the canon which I struggle to focus and it doesn't play well with NINA.  Decided to test for chromatic aberation using a bright target.  Finally an astrophotographical use for the moon.

15 minutes ago, L8-Nite said:

Only 10 miles away, what are you waiting for, go have a look; you don't have to commit yourself.

"I'm just going for a look.  It's a conincidence I've got near 2 grand in my pocket as well"

The great red spot is now my Nemesis.  I went out and thought I'd have a look at Jupiter and the moon and lamented the fact the GRS was not facing.  Came in to check Stellarium and it in fact was in pole position the entire time I was out.  I think my issue is that it is too bright in the 130pds and I lose some contrast.  Might try some serious observing and playing with my polarising filter.  Might be time to flock the scope too.

Astronomy is like an infection.  I just wanted to take pretty pictures of nebula and stuff.  Now I'm obsessed with sketching and planetary is getting it's hooks into me!  I just sold my ruddy Mak because I didn't think it worth having a scope just for planets.  Someone send help (or a Tak).

Also did a bit of testing with the Tair 3.  I cleared of a serious fungus infestation and after putting it together found dartboards around every star.  Turns out I put the front element in backwards.  Testing went well and there is minimal chromatic aberation and no dartboards even on bright targets.

14 minutes ago, Mr Spock said:

Last night was the first clear night for weeks. However, I stayed in due to the large number of fireworks going off 🤬

Good job I did. There's a spent rocket right on my observing patio 

I remember getting smacked in the face by a spent firework at the millennium celebrations when I were but a lad.

I do not recommend it.

Looks like you've got M31 there.

For visual on smaller scopes, almost all DSO will be various flavours of white smudge.

I'm just starting out, but I've found that sketching is a great way of describing what you see.  You can then check the stars against stellarium or a star map to see if you were right.  It's also good fun, cheap an easy.  It also helps you actively observe and take in more detail imho.

Here's my sketch of M31 from a couple nights ago.  Done with a 130/650mm scope at x20 magnification.  Done with pencil and paper (well a cheap sketch kit from Lidl) and then an image of it inverted on my phone.

6 hours ago, Spaced Out said:

Wow... That's amazing, thank you. I think I need to learn how to use Siril !

Siril is awesome.  I just follow this for my images and it works very well:

https://siril.org/tutorials/tuto-manual/

I use my 130pds for imaging sometimes.  Mostly visual at the moment which is good because I've been able to learn to use it and get the hang of collimation, etc.   Its really nice for visual (just not on an eq mount!)

Most DSO are pretty big and you don't really need a big scope for it.  200-400mm focal length will image a huge amount of the night sky and the shorter focal length will make it much more forgiving for things like guiding.

I'll add that I only used the 130pds for imaging because I upgraded my camera and couldn't attach my telephoto lenses to the camera.  I had no issues, but I'd spent a couple months working kinks out of my system before attempting with a scope.

31 minutes ago, The Admiral said:

You don't say how you took the darks (unless I missed it). Was the camera attached to your scope at the time, or did you just try it with a cap on? Did you do it in daylight or at night? Bit of a longshot this, but could it possibly be a tiny light leak from somewhere, particularly as you don't see it on the subs, which will obviously be in the dark?

Bit late of course, as it's been returned, but worth thinking about with its replacement.

Ian

Did them with the silicone bung on and the lens cap.  Tried different usb cables and power supplies.

The glow is definitely there, it's just very faint so doesn't show up.  But it shouldn't be there at all.  If it had turned out it was just a design decision in how they built the camera it would have been okay by me.  But it shouldn't be there.

5 minutes ago, SteveNickolls said:

Hi Ratlet, thanks for your reply. Sorry to learn you have had to return the 533C but you certainly need to have the glow sorted out. Ahh, I had suspected a better Bortle scale sky in your neck of the woods, enjoy the better conditions. 👍

Cheers,

Steve

Fortunately I'm at work for the next 2 weeks with no chance of imaging so the impact will hopefully be minimal.

Weird thing about the glow is that it doesn't show up in the images.  Like you say though it needs to be sorted as there is no guarantee that it won't develop and is indicative of a problem.  Altair were very helpful though so hopefully will be resolved before I get back out imaging.

On 12/10/2022 at 20:02, SteveNickolls said:

Thanks for this report on your new camera. Didn't expect you would find the glow at the bottom left, is this usual? 

Your images are lovely, can I ask what conditions you image under (SQM value or Bortle value)?

Pleased the camera is working well with your software.

Best wishes for the future.

Steve

Sorry for the delay in replying.  I did a bit of digging with help from some people at Cloudy Nights and the glow isn't normal.  I spoke to Altair, who were very helpful who also said this is not normal.  Just sent back the camera and should hopefully be getting a replacement soon.

I'm imaging under bortle 4-5 skies.  

3 hours ago, LaurenceT said:

Thanks for that. I've had a look on Ebay and decided the best solution would be a tripod lens collar. The diameter of the lens at the best place is about 61mm and the internal diameter of the collar is 65mm so I'm sure I can find an adhesive something or other to stick to the inside of the collar to absorb the excess in size, just not sure what. In fact I've bought 2 because the asi224 camera is the same diameter so I can mount the collars on a dovetail and support both of them. Sorry to waffle on but I'm pleased I may have found a solution.

Edit: I've just put the Vivitar on my Sony body and I'm quite pleased with the quality of the lens. 1/400th, f5.6, ISO4000.

I wouldnt worry about waffling.  Figuring out how to mount a lens to a dovetail is an issue for using vintage glass so it no doubt will help someone in the future.

I had a look at the lens and there was a distinct bullseye pattern on the inside of the glass.  I did indeed have the front element in the wrong way round lol.  Round 2 with it on Sunday.

Hmmm.  The Tair 3 didn't work so well.  Good focus on the dimmer stars but the brighter ones...  Oh boy,  Little bit of flare around them.  Hopefully I've just put the front element in the wrong way around.

I find that high power (say the 8mm in my X2 Barlow) is REALLY good for making me want to upgrade my mount.  I love the AZ5 but if I'm being honest it's probably not up to the 130pds at that power and hovering my head at the eyepiece to avoid wobbles works but is quite tiring.

Set of 90mm tube rings from everyone's favourite auntie.  3D printed some spacers and lined them on the inside with felt so they would hold the Tair 3.

Should be clear all night so early bed and out at 0100 to give it a test once the moon has gone to bed.  Will give it a try and M42 and the horsehead since they will be up and about.

Ive just started out but I'd say you don't need the set of eyepieces.  I think you'd be better getting a couple decent eyepieces.  I went for an 8mm BST (believe they are called Paradigm in the states) and a good quality 32mm Plossl.  With a 2x Barlow this pretty much covers everything I've wanted to look at so far.  Maybe I'll want a different eyepiece down the line but the lack of options makes things a bit easier starting out as there is less to think about.

Not sure about the quality of the mount the scope comes with, but I find with mine (130pds on an az5 mount) the 8mm in the Barlow is the limit before vibration becomes a bit of an issue).  Great views of the planets though.

The statsense seems highly regarded and even Ed Ting spoke well if it.

1 minute ago, SteveNickolls said:

Interesting space based energy weapon with other uses.

Cheers,

Steve

I seem to remember this in SimCity 2000 where if it failed it would carve a nice laser beam path through your city...

Planetary and splitting doubles mostly.  My scope is a pretty small (130aperture / 650mmFL) and I spend most of my time at lowish mag (x20 and x80) since my two favourite eyepieces give this power.  I'm sure at some point I'll want more but just starting out and there is plenty to see on the low power side.

Pretty cloudy here last night but I could just about make out Jupiter.  Threw the 130pds at it at x80 and...

Surprisingly good view, at least whilst the clouds were whispy. Could make out quite a bit of detail in the band's.  I really need to invest in a planetary filter.

1 hour ago, Tiny Clanger said:

If using mains supply :

https://www.greenhousepeople.co.uk/products/4596/slimline-green-eco-heater-55w-tube-heater-with-thermostat-500mm/

These are the things you want.  Greenhouse heaters is a good google for alternatives.  I use one up the shed to keep an old fridge warm for homebrewing in.  Cheap, bullet proof (with a RCD plug) and much less likely to cause burns than an incandecent.

I've found that the level of seeing you need will vary by the task.  I bought a rechargeable NEBO headtorch from B&Q which can go straight to red and then green.  The green is incredibly dim but I find it much better for seeing if I'm setting up early in the night.  The red is very dim and for general observing it is okay, however if I'm sketching it is way too bright because of the close proximity of the paper.  It sometimes feels like its got a life of its own and sometimes will decide the next push of the button will enable the white light which is akin to staring into the Death Star Laser.  I've got a cheap ASDA head torch that I accidently made perfect for sketching by putting too many layers of dark green gels over the red LED's.  Way to dim for most things, but pretty much perfect for sketching.

11 hours ago, Louis D said:

Regular 1.25" right angle prisms have a 63mm to 67mm optical path length.  I would think an Amici prism might add a bit to that.  It certainly won't be any shorter.  You might be able to make a straight through finder, but I have my doubts about a RACI finder.

Cheers for that.  Hmmm.  Glad I didn't spend too much on the prism.  Hopefully get the focal point thrown enough with a Barlow to get it to work.

I picked up a cheap circle T prism diagonal to try out.

I wasn't so fussed about whether it was a correct image or not and more that I minimised the optical path