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Mr TamiyaCowboy

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Posts posted by Mr TamiyaCowboy

  1. I left mine at parents but am itching to try it again.

    Did you also try it with just the centre cap removed on the moon add that would have whacked the focal length even longer and you may have still had enough light for a reasonable shutter speed?

    Do you have a tripod you can mount it all on?

    Sadly no i left the dustcap fully off. i thought it best to test this way as most will use the st80 wide open 

    and not stopped down.

    i do have a tripod but once you add the camera and a-focal adapter you are bringing the COG of the scope to around where the 

    finderscope mounts the scope body. its a long way back from the usual mounting point on scope, so you can find your tripod creeping a bit.

    I will drag out an old EQ-1 and pop it into Alt Az mode, if not i will rest the scope and take a couple shots with the dustcap on and the stopdown cover removed

    see what the maximum shutter speed could be.

    it is a lovely little scope , i just need more wildlife and my savings to go from pennys to pounds so i can grab a couple 50mm extension tubes.

    and if the moon is out tonight will see if i can capture something decent in the way of images to show chroma and the larger filled frame

    with the 2x cheapy barlow fitted

  2. hello again, i return with more helpful information 

    Well the ST80 had been sitting for a while, the warmer nights and the somewhat summer days

    have had me busy. i am now running one of my FPV drones with a gopro like camera mounted.

    well back to the ST80 and some more testing, Last night ( 7th june 2014 ) we had a lovely half moon,

    Ok ok .. it was nearly half'ish moon but all the same in that ST80's frame it was a tad small. 

    I have the Astro revelation T-mount adapter, but it also came as a A-focal adapter to. you could slip an eyepiece

    into the body of the adapter and mount the camera T-ring to it. Now it says a 26mm eyepiece, i have a 25mm eyepiece......

    No lets go mad, so i grabbed the standard skywatcher 2x barlow, You know the one that black plastic beast they give you free with telescopes.

    Removing the two knurled screw in eyepiece holders, now it gets somewhat shady.......

    i have a canon 350D ( note a 350D is the camera, it may work with a 400-450D but others you are somewhat on your own)

    when you pop the barlow into the A-focal adapter part you will notice the barlow close to the lip of the bayonet on the T-mount

    itself, now on the 350D this is fine and the mirror CLEARS the unit, 

    NOW if you notice the top of the barlow protruding above/out of the T-mount when fitted to adpater you may find the mirror smashing into it when shutter is triggered,

    so be warned here.
    well once i had worked out i was safe, i screwed the whole unit to the T-mount screw thread on the rear of the eyepiece holder on the ST80 Focuser.

    gave about five full winds out on the focuser and held the whole unit up, found the usual sideglow of the moon and started to swing scope to aquire the target.

    WOW, i mean WOW, the scope is now at 800MM and has a focal of around F10, the 350D in TV mode and set with an ISO800 sweetspot, i was shooting handheld at 1/200s.

    She i meaning the ST80 was wide open with the hood fitted, and that bright moon was just awesome. Now we did get some chroma comming in,

    the bottom edge of the moon had the blue/purp creep setting in, but not very bad at all, in the canon software chroma reduction area a high number 20 removed all but a touch of chroma.

    and now the lunar object fills up the frame, you can start to see lovely crisp clear craters and define some other areas to. 
    NOW that 2x barlow is somewhat doubling your F number, but for daylight its all well i was shooting at 1/1250s in overcast sky.

    The scope still acts like above mentioned, nothing close is able to focus down, BUT your getting a 2x teleconverter instead, so you can now shoot very long

    or mid way with some nice frame filling and less cropping needed.

  3. well was then heading off to bed when i had a quick peek outside the bedroom window.

    i was greated with an unusual red'ish glow between the trees and expected a nice bright full'ish moon.

    so off i went, rushed outside and snapped 41 shots, 

    ISO800 - F5.6 - 1/80s , i also ramped up the onboard saturation in camera to max.

    the images stacked in Registax6 with PiPPs chopping to 1080p resolution ( size)

    Canon 350D @ prime on a ST80  at its max apeture of F5

    post-16869-0-14001900-1400337704_thumb.j

    • Like 1
  4. have a EQ1 with cheapy motor drive. 

    only ONE AXIS is moved when tracking 24/7 this is the RA axis

    the dec AXIS is set to gain object in center of the eyepiece. 

    first off i set my scope to 52 degrees lattitude ( in truth its about 51 and a gnats hair lol)

    next i line up the mount to polaris ( for me its a rough guess using compass and technology)

    now if i want to view orion and it is in the WEST side of the sky my telescope is on the EAST side of the mount ( remember mount points north,

     and the same if Orion was in the east sky my scope needs to be on the west side of the mount)

    so i pop the scope on the east side, now i adjust dec so i am the right hight for orion and slew the RA to bring it to view. 

    NOW YOU LOCK DOWN the mounts clutches and engage the motor drive.

    if the motor drive is turning TO slowly you will notice the object starts to drift out of the view , if your polaralignment is fairly good

    this movement will be in one PLANE only ie up/down - left right. 

    if you find you have to keep tweeking the DEC this means your mount is not polaraligned very well and could do with a little adjustment.

    The DRIFT method alignment helps with polaraligning and also getting the best alignment for tracking.

    here you will lock onto a star and start tracking it, as it moves and starts to drift you can work out if you need to adjust

    the mount lattitude wise or north alignment wise. 

    • Like 1
  5. I did some extensive testing yesterday. 

    canon 350D @ prime using a china made T-mount adapter for EOS fitting.

    this was more to find out how bad the CA is and the best way to remove it None mechanical / filter wise.

    at first i shot wide open with the dew cover fitted ( lens hood) bright full sunshine 

    and the object a seagull grabbing a ride on the thermals from the local rooftops. so very contrasty bright sky and a seagull not a good choice for CA

    image was shot at ISO800 and the onboard saturation maxed out. shutter speed was as fast as she would go

    @1/4000 second. 
    The image came out washed, 4000s was just to overexposed , i kept the ISO to 800 as the cameras optimal ISO is around 900-1000 ( sensor wise)

    you could see the CA evident around the gulls leading wingtips and around its head and beak, it was ugly but still OK ish for a newbie ( pros would have died)

    Next i placed on the dust cap and removed the center mask cover. this drops the 80mm lens down to a 46mm lens.maybe this lens was just TO BIG and needed stopping down some

    so the 46mm hole would mean something like a 4 stop drop maybe

    iso we left at the same 800, exact shame shot taken but this time i was able to drop down to 1600s, bang on

    no oversaturation at all infact maybe a little dull but nothing 1250s shutter would not solve and still give a respectable handheld shot.

    the CA noticed and evident on the fist image was GONE and i mean its outta there NO CA what so ever. 

    so stopping this big monster down to the 46mm with dust cap really did work. 


    Extensions, hmmmmm headache for me. i am mostly using the lens for long mid and short focus ranges so the T-mount extenders

    are somewhat a chore, but i do hope to grab a set of EOS canon macro extender tubes , they must work in the same was a T-mount extension would

    just shifting the sensor away from the focal plane. The major downfall is that YOU WILL loose infinity focus , so astronomy is thrown out of the window if you try to 

    extension fit the scope, you may just get away with about 50mm of extension but your going to be ever so shy of infinity.

    i need to get a bigger tape measure but can say the focus minimum distance is between 15m-30m to infinity at prime.

    Add a 100mm extension tube you can bring that focus minimum down to 10ft  but your maximum focus range is shorted to around 15m max ( even less )

    • Like 1
  6. I think you'll just have to live with using a variety of extenders...

    Olly

    Olly  

    i have had a look at extenders, but they all seem to be T-mount when astro work is involved.

    they screw onto the t-mount adapter and act as a bridge to the focusers t-mount. 

    thats not bad but swapping out would be somewhat a pain having to unscrew and screw new in place.

    But trawling amazon i found some lens extenders, they are a EF-S extender set. 12mm and so on.

    these are used for macro work with camera lenses, but do you think they could work as an extender for my t-mount. 

    link to said items : http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00E9M33PY/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i5?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1XD9KFDZ7KBFHHSST2WJ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=455344027&pf_rd_i=468294

    I pop a ef-s lens extender onto camera body, i fit my camera and extender ( sporting ef-s bayonet fitting) to the T-mount adapter and then to the scope.

    Now when i need to add/remove an extender, i just unclip the camera body from the extender and add new one to camera body. i can now either remove the extender left on the T-mount adapter

    or replace camera with a secondary extender, i am also cutting down clutter having the extenders being flat disc and not thin tube

    So guys and girls and the awesome brainiac Olly would this be a better solution to the adding of extenders,

    instead of t-mount extentions i use the EF-S macro tube extenders with the added bonus they can be used on camera lenses own to ? 

    now if this is a viable option any sugestions on a product, should i go cheapy newwer brand or fork out for something like Hoya / canon branding.

    thank you for help, 

    P.S 

    the Skywatcher star travel 80mm when mounted Prime to a canon 350D has a minimum focus distance of 30m to infinity 

    give or take a few meter , i made it around 25-35m so rounded to 30m

  7. Thanks for the reply and comedic comments haha.

    I'll definitely take up your recommendation. Full moon is tomorrow I think, so I hope to be able to find some eyepiece by the weekend.

    I'm not sure how to spot clusters or the Andromeda galaxy, i'll have to do some research regarding that.

    its a 1.25" for sure eyepiece and focuser tube. i have a 114-1000 model telescope, and found my very best eyepiece was a 17mm and a mid range 2x barlow 

    that should bring you down to around a equv of a 7-8mm eyepiece. any more and it gets a tad ugly. 

    take a quiet warm evening on the patio / deck , pop the scope on the table, grab a bottle of chilled wine ( for the lady ofc) and a couple glasses.

    give that telescope time to cool down and get to a nice working temp. the wine helps that time pass and gives you time to strike up conversation

    and areas of the sky to have a look at. iphone and android apps can be downloaded and the phone held to the sky to show you what is where

    above your head.

    Clusters, when you stumble upon a cluster you will know it. you will see a mass cluster of stars grouped together, and by jove diamonds in the sky is a good term for what you will see.

    Galaxys are a little harder, they will be more like a fuzzy gray type cloud /whisp / dust, the hardest part is averted gazing ( you kind of look at it but dont look at it ) but once you learn to look at the object but not look at the object you will see

    what we all mean. 

    and never forget that moving diamond in the sky The ISS space station, yes even websites that tell you when it will appear in the nights sky, so you can point up and say " hey love there is the spacestation how cool is that )

  8. yes highly annoying, and does not help having to add these adapters and extenders 

    dont like my camera hanging off cheap skywatcher focuser tubes and rack n pinion dinosaur tech focusers.

    feels like the whole setup will just snap in half, but i really like the ST80 as a cheap Fixed long prime and i mean F5 is a blast.

    and if you leave the dust cap on and remove the centre cover your killing that chroma dead in the tracks but you do loose some

    brightness and resolution. ( center hole is 46mm apeture if am right ).

  9. Its puzzling me now 

    50mm prime lens min focus distance is 1.5ft to infinity 

    my st80 is a prime 400mm lens ( 400mm focal length ) so the telescope should be a **ft to infinity 

    its like this you focus up orions nebula , and then decide Hmmm i will go view the moon, you swing round, twist focuser a tad and take a shot.

    for me its i focus up the magpie at 400m away then see a greater spotted woodpecker at 80ft , you know the better target is that woodie

    so you unscrew the kit shove in a extender to find its not good enough add another line up and MEH !!! damn you bird its flown away.

    yet if it was orion and the moon instead of a magpie and woodpecker you have no problem at the longer focus range.

    what i cant work out is how i find the full min/max focus distance of the objective lens , every lens must have a minimum and max focus distance 

    and that should also be the same for a telescope to ?

  10. On my camera lens units they give me a minimal focus distance the lens will focus at. 

    Now my skywatcher Star travel 80mm ( ST80 ) i use for both astro and terrestial  viewing photography.

    my problem is the telescopes infomation does not give the minimal focal distance of the given optics, unlike my camera lenses that do.

    this problem really happens in wildlife photography, focus on wildlife far away is no problem, but anything less than 50ft away there is no chance.

    if i add an extender (100mm extender ) i am able to focus on closer objects BUT i loose infinity focus totaly , the scope just does not focus anything at distance

    IE: not enough inward travel with extender , and not enough outward travel without extender.

    is there any way or info on the minimal focal distance for the skywatcher optics, i have looked on the website to no avail 

    and am left missing out on some lovely terrestial shots without this minimal distance of focal range. IE how close the lens can be to an object to gain focus of said object.

    scope details are 80mm objective @ 400mm focal length

    my lens detail are 90-300 focal length and a 4.5ft to infinity focal range

    i hope all this does not sound like i am barking up a tree at nothing, but i can see the problem in my head and know what it is but cant explain it in wording very well

    my lens gives a minimal but the ST80 does not how do you work out this minimal focal distance

  11. Glad I could help, feel free to ask me any questions. I've got a lot to learn about tracked widefield imaging and processing, but as I've started recently some issues are fresh in my mind. My first attempt with the 50mm was imaging the Orion Nebula off a fixed tripod with a load of very short (3.2 sec) exposures under light-polluted skies. I was really surprised when a faint outline of the Flame Nebula also appeared.

    Some issues I'm trying to resolve:

    - What's the best aperture setting to use for different targets? Can star bloat be controlled in processing or does the lens need to be stopped down more?

    - Why are my subs of variable quality (DSS gives a score for each one)? Is the focus ring slipping, the lens misting up or is the sensor temperature climbing?

    - How do I go about getting a better polar alignment for longer subs? I have a vague understanding of drift alignment, but haven't had a go at it yet.

    I'm not the most systematic learner, I tend to just try stuff and then read up when I hit a problem.

    question 1 : Exposure triangle have a google at this , lets say you have a 50mm lens its a F1.8 , thats nice right big wide open apeture , but to get the best from the lens it has a sweetspot.

    from between F2.8 to F4 , the MORE apeture the crisp a more full image. some folks are shooting at F11 to capture everything, the problem is the higher the apeture the LONGER the exposure and that means the MORE noise collected.

    most of us will be shooting with fixed F numbers ie : telescopes between F4 and F7 these have optics with a fast apeture for imaging.

    Question 2 : subs will vari  and mostly because of onboard heat generation, the colder the camera the better quality Signal to Noise ratio, the camera sees photons, but over time

    it starts to record the Heat produced by the silicon chips and the power AMP on the sensor ( amp glow is seen as a orange/red blob in one corner of the sensor ), over time you will notice

    you get better pictures in the mid depths of winter than those lovely hot summer evenings and nights. also dont forget air quality - location etc etc can all factor in.

    Question 3 : Either via drift alignment and or polar alignment using a polarscope and then running system with guiding camera. 

    i am still a newbie imaging wise, so the above is a newbies eye view on your problems, but i am sure others with more detail on imaging can

    clarify with better detail, but i did find the exposure triangle a helpful thing to understand. 

    google the 2/3rds rule , we split the screen into three rows and three collums , when people say the 2/3rd focus  

    we just mean dont focus on the central object, focus for something  outside the central star wise. ( so instead of focusing for say orions nebula in the 50mm frame centered, you would just focus so orions belts

    stars are in focus  even though these would be at the very topmost of the image

    • Like 1
  12. Same as bingevader.

    Mars is going to be a some what hard target to nail. you may get a better chance with a webcam fitted to the telescope,

    and using your barlow. 

    That pesky moon is a lovely sight but it can be our downfall to making things harder to see, less stars in the sky

    because of the moons glow. 

    jupiter is a nice target, place your BARLOW into the focuser then pop in your 25mm eyepiece, you should see jupiter and a few of its moons.

    If you wait and keep watching mars you will notice that another star like object appears down to the left of mars, This is Saturn.

    with your BARLOW in your focuser add your 10mm eyepiece and have a look, you will need to be gentle on the focuser but you should see

    Saturn and its rings. 

    its a shame Orion is low that would have been a lovely target with your 25mm eyepiece.

    Great to see father and son enjoying a hobby together 

    • Like 1
  13. Thanks for the kind words chaps, I think my pipp is on auto, I'll check next time

    Yes next door to the input settings is the processing tab. Hit this and check left panel

    it says convert from color to monochrome also make sure this tab is not selected 

    what could happen is your input files are color, but when it comes to the processing it sees the covert to mono tab selected and will do a convert to monochrome using

    the RGB channels ( i think this is where your mono is coming from ) , worth double checking the color/mono settings before Do All tabing ;)

    • Like 1
  14. you could find that either registax OR PIPP has settings made to convert to monochrome 

    now the above i would go for PIPPS thats done the monochrome conversion.

    when you next load up PIPPS have a look through those tabs for ( gimmie a mo booting pipps up ) .....

    ................  ok here we go .... 

    open pipps when you have your images/video selected.

    click Input Options 

    right pannel side look for : inputframe color/mono 

    now you need to set this to COLOR. auto detect can sometimes make a color image monochrome, 

    so force PIPPS to run color mode ;)

    BTW most Awesome shot knobby , keep up the good work and practice makes perfect 

  15. Thank you everyone. 

    yes the noise is annoying, registax just does not like much on wavelets, and

    i had to RGB align red and blue channels ( well i just aligned them.

    Knobby,

    i have been getting some uber practice lol, i have been making a few bird feeders to mull my time away,

    try build up some sort of stamina and get the old ticker working a little ( hand sanding and cutting ).

    at the same time my newfound feeders have made there way into the garden. 
    I not only use the ST80 for astro but i also use it for grabbing shots of the feeder stations for the birds.

    learning to adopt a good strong stance is key , and be quick in shooting, longer the lens is up the more heavy it becomes

    and the more sway is induced. 

  16. title says it all two images with the ST80 and the trusty old canon 350d

    setup is direct scope to canon EOS T-mount , rough eyeball via viewfinder focus

    i was in a rush, the biggest image is a crop @100% and a shutter speed of 1/4000 all 17 frames worth

    the second image is a 1920x1080 crop and a shutter speed of 1/1250 only 3 images taken at this slower shutter

    both have an ISO800 and been registax'ed

    All 20 frames are Handheld no mount used or tripod, pipps was my choice of tool as with registax 6

    post-16869-0-12305100-1399416485_thumb.j

    post-16869-0-42453100-1399416507_thumb.j

    • Like 1
  17. 1:  The moon - Lunar disc.

    well here its a very bright object, to the camera its like a rabbit in headlights, so we have to run fast shutters on our dlsr

    do not be afraid to have the camera set at a LOW ISO say 200-400 ( this is like turning down the cameras power ), we want a fast shutter so try around 1/200s to 1/3000

    having a fast shutter means that bright moon will not be so bright in our final image. Key thing is one image comes from a roll of 100+ images, you could take 20,000 picture and only 5 are any good.

    so dont be downhearted if sometimes things do not seem to be going right, just keep playing with Low ISO and Fast shutter.

    2: Planets 

    bit more harder, here i would tend to shove my webcam into the scope and record 1000s of images in a few mins, alot faster than the dslr

    and a smaller sensor will help to. here you would be playing with contrast - brightness and Gain - exposure via the webcam interface. 

    3: Solar 

    this is DSLR country same as for moon and DSO, we would be using either Nd5 or ND3.5 solar film ( the lower number is geared to photographic imaging and not viewing.

    again it is more practice and getting the optical system focused, after that low'ish ISO say 400 , and a medium speed shutter so around 1/200 to 1/500 , these settings MAY NOT WORK

    but they give you a rough base point to start on. the sun is a bright object to so like the moon we want fairly fast shutter and low'ish ISO.

    4: DSO 

     with that quattro @f4 and your DSLR you can go DSO hunting , you have a very nice mount to so none guided you can still get some super sub lengths.

    without guiding i would have said around 60s+ subs , thats 1 min exposures , if you go to guiding system your looking at 300s - 900s plus thats like a couple mins or more exposure.

    the key with DSO is signal to noise, so its a practice makes perfect , we usually run a high ISO like 1600 - 3200 -4000  and higher but the cost is More noise from the camera as

    it is forced to work harder and eat more power/produce more heat. and shutter speed is goverend manually by the user/computer system. 

    the ISO and exposure rates above are more for a Canon dslr what i own, but the theory is the same for solar-lunar and Deep sky objects

    • Like 1
  18. Can you pull down your ISO on the 600D 

    i know my 350D  but also the canon 400- 450d -20d - 40d all have an optimal ISO at 900-1000

    going to push and say try your ISO as close to 1000-1600 as possible ( lowset here so close to 1000)

    its going to give you the best SNR running at the cameras optimal iso.

    • Like 1
  19. I run lipos myself. 

    11.1v 35-70c discharge @2200mah 

    top dollar cell packs for fpv flying, they dont mind high drain so long as your sticking to the rated C discharge rate.

    problem is if you drain them to much they become highly unstable, overcharge them slightly and they become highly unstable.

    with propper care and saftey systems in place they can be good, light weight and packing a huge punch.

    my packs i can draw near on 180amps before they blow/explode/catch fire for around 10s. 

    a telescope will not put much stain on the cells themselves, but a mistake like reverse polarity

    or no low voltage cut off could end up you burning down the whole rig setup..

    truth is i use them, have seen them pop and even now dont trust them one bit.

    all my batterys are stored in vented metal biscuit tins filled with inert sand.

    and checked every two weeks for natural seepage and re-toping to storage voltage levels.

    More hassle than the good old lead acid i now use for main 12v power systems.

  20. the small Pot adjustable knob 

    all the way to the right is top speed.

    all the way left is snail speed. 

    the connection between the motor gearbox spline and the RA work screw spline. 

    first off undo the clutch on the RA. now holding the motor gearbox to the mount get a rough idea

    where the flat of the RA spline need to be so inline with the capture screw on the gearbox spline.

    and rotate the slow mo RA knob till the RA spline lines up somewhat.

    now as you slip the motor gearbox ONTO the RA spline and tighten down the screw,

    you need to WIGGLE gentley the motor gearbox ( kinda rotate it left n right) you MUST do this as you tighten that screw down.

    you will feel the screw and spline knock each other as you keep wiggling and tightening this screw down.

    after a bit they get nice and tight, then take a set of pliers/screwdriver and tighten down a tad more to lock it inplace.

    you could use a small dab of BLUE threadlocker to stop the screw backing out on its own.

    Brand NEW battery, and good branded name ( you know the one, copper top, bunny advert)

    Now that speed knob is a tad small, i mean even little people (kids ) would find it hard to get a grip

    then let alone try and control speed with it. i modded mine with a little slip over cap wheel.

    now i have a bigger knob and more finer adjustment, no more fiddling.

    The eco Motor driver is sold as Both a EQ-1 and EQ-2 basic RA motor drve

  21. yes both the same meaning. 

    i think of it as this. 

    in astronomy your aim is to capture as much light as possible, so a low F number like f4 -f5 is ideal.

    higher the f longer the time to collect the same amount of light. 

    in photography its reversed, we dont want to much light so we keep the say f5 but we ramp up the shutter speed.

    so as not to saturate the sensor, we also use the faster F number of bokeh and DOF 

  22. thank you PeterCPC

    will take me a while to dig it out so a project thats has to be done.

    good thing is already have a footprint from the slabs already down, they were just laid on bare soil,

    as i did not lay myself. have 1.5 inch drop to the west from east on a 3x3 slab.

    glad i could skip the sand layer, would have been extra cost. 

    i may even ad a couple lengths of re-bar if i can find any laying around.

    want to make sure it does not give way/sink when the bike ends up being parked on it,

    same as what happened to the slabs.

  23. the old flagstone like paving slabs have sunk, it is not much help having a large motor scooter,

    parked upon them, so now my scope /mount has a 3 degree rain runoff angle. 

    i would like to lay down a midi size pad, big enough for a scooter to be parked up on,

    but also good enough to pop the scope on in the summer evenings.

    i have a plan of action but need advice on laying of the pad ( i layed slabs and footings, never done a pad before ) 

    so heres what i have. 

    drainaway ? hard core base tampered down.

    toplayer of tampered down sand.

    then a 4 inch thick slab/pad, 

    i was going to use a 3 -2 -2 mix ( 3 sand , 2 shingle, 2 cement )

    Does all this sound about right so a 6 inch deep pad, and a 4 inch thick pad.

    or do i need to go deeper with the hardcore/sand layer say 8 inch  ( 4 inch base/4inch pad ).

    i want small tiles for the mount feet to sit on, so how does one set these into the pad without them sinking ?

  24. Thanks!  Ha ... well this is the thing.  I don't have an MPE65 .. I don't have a macro lens either.   :)  I love figuring out how to do things for cheap.  My macro rig (not including the body) cost around £60 to build.  It's really a case of technique with macro rather than gear.  I've started reading how equatorial mounts are built .... looks complicated.  Its still going to be a long while before I get one I reckon .... I've only just managed to figure out how to align my scope at all.

    Cheap lol thats my fave word. 

    i run an ST80 coupled to a Canon 350D direct Tmount to canon eos adapter 

    i also grabbed a revelation t mount afocal adapter ( like an externder tube but an eyepiece fits inside it)

    check out the FOV website, pop in 450D and choose your scope from dropdown.

    choose mars as object and click submit. its going to be a small dot if you can see it.

    Now keep the same scope but add this webcam " microsoft lifecam " and click submit 

    big difference, the smaller chip can have a smaller light cone cover it all.

    on our DSLR that light cone is very small so we get a small image on a huge sensor.

    now select M42 and swap to the canon 450D , nice image right ? 

    now change to the microsoft webcam , ergh its to big and raspy , thats a small sensor in a huge light cone

    DSLR is mainly used for those sweet full lunar discs , those white light sun images and DSO

    Webcams are planet slayers, the small sensor size outweights the DSLR large quality sensor.

    Most imagers will have a selection of cameras, webcam dlsr and even a dedicated astronomy camera.

    a different tool for a each certain job 

  25. go very very cheap. Buy an XBOX webcam , its cheap and dont matter if you brick up a 3 quid camera.

    mod this, shove into telescope and find saturn / mars / jupiter 

    next is the lunar disk / surface, webcams get close so craters start to pop up

    once you got the xbox cam running and working you could upgrade to a cinema - studio ( microsoft lifecam)

    Nikon - Canon - fuji - sony yadda yadda 

    lots of DSLR's to chose from. i seen fantastic pictures from both canon and nikon cameras,

    and not expensive prosumer DLSR im talking entry level dslr jobs. 

    fantastic pictures , but yours are not so fantastic, we have all been there, and still have those first images  

    many years on. one mans camera settings may not be so good on another mans camera even if they are the same.

    there are always slight errors and the likes. i found with my 350D i spent ages just working out what buttons did what.

    and how it affected a picture. its the same for astronomy imaging. 

    take a or two, import and have a look, adjust camera a little and go again.

    it takes time for you to learn the camera, and are able to look through the finder/liveview

    and say Yep 12x 120s exposure should work, you set it up take those shots and you were correct.

    maybe 125s next time at a push. 

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