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Mr TamiyaCowboy

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120 Excellent


About Mr TamiyaCowboy

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    Proto Star

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  • Interests
    i like do it in the dark like all astronomers.
    Chalk carving is one of my new additions. to help me relax.
  • Location
    Sunny Norfolk , UK
  1. Sadly no i left the dustcap fully off. i thought it best to test this way as most will use the st80 wide open and not stopped down. i do have a tripod but once you add the camera and a-focal adapter you are bringing the COG of the scope to around where the finderscope mounts the scope body. its a long way back from the usual mounting point on scope, so you can find your tripod creeping a bit. I will drag out an old EQ-1 and pop it into Alt Az mode, if not i will rest the scope and take a couple shots with the dustcap on and the stopdown cover removed see what the maximum shutter speed could be. it is a lovely little scope , i just need more wildlife and my savings to go from pennys to pounds so i can grab a couple 50mm extension tubes. and if the moon is out tonight will see if i can capture something decent in the way of images to show chroma and the larger filled frame with the 2x cheapy barlow fitted
  2. hello again, i return with more helpful information Well the ST80 had been sitting for a while, the warmer nights and the somewhat summer days have had me busy. i am now running one of my FPV drones with a gopro like camera mounted. well back to the ST80 and some more testing, Last night ( 7th june 2014 ) we had a lovely half moon, Ok ok .. it was nearly half'ish moon but all the same in that ST80's frame it was a tad small. I have the Astro revelation T-mount adapter, but it also came as a A-focal adapter to. you could slip an eyepiece into the body of the adapter and mount the camera T-ring to it. Now it says a 26mm eyepiece, i have a 25mm eyepiece...... No lets go mad, so i grabbed the standard skywatcher 2x barlow, You know the one that black plastic beast they give you free with telescopes. Removing the two knurled screw in eyepiece holders, now it gets somewhat shady....... i have a canon 350D ( note a 350D is the camera, it may work with a 400-450D but others you are somewhat on your own) when you pop the barlow into the A-focal adapter part you will notice the barlow close to the lip of the bayonet on the T-mount itself, now on the 350D this is fine and the mirror CLEARS the unit, NOW if you notice the top of the barlow protruding above/out of the T-mount when fitted to adpater you may find the mirror smashing into it when shutter is triggered, so be warned here. well once i had worked out i was safe, i screwed the whole unit to the T-mount screw thread on the rear of the eyepiece holder on the ST80 Focuser. gave about five full winds out on the focuser and held the whole unit up, found the usual sideglow of the moon and started to swing scope to aquire the target. WOW, i mean WOW, the scope is now at 800MM and has a focal of around F10, the 350D in TV mode and set with an ISO800 sweetspot, i was shooting handheld at 1/200s. She i meaning the ST80 was wide open with the hood fitted, and that bright moon was just awesome. Now we did get some chroma comming in, the bottom edge of the moon had the blue/purp creep setting in, but not very bad at all, in the canon software chroma reduction area a high number 20 removed all but a touch of chroma. and now the lunar object fills up the frame, you can start to see lovely crisp clear craters and define some other areas to. NOW that 2x barlow is somewhat doubling your F number, but for daylight its all well i was shooting at 1/1250s in overcast sky. The scope still acts like above mentioned, nothing close is able to focus down, BUT your getting a 2x teleconverter instead, so you can now shoot very long or mid way with some nice frame filling and less cropping needed.
  3. well was then heading off to bed when i had a quick peek outside the bedroom window. i was greated with an unusual red'ish glow between the trees and expected a nice bright full'ish moon. so off i went, rushed outside and snapped 41 shots, ISO800 - F5.6 - 1/80s , i also ramped up the onboard saturation in camera to max. the images stacked in Registax6 with PiPPs chopping to 1080p resolution ( size) Canon 350D @ prime on a ST80 at its max apeture of F5
  4. have a EQ1 with cheapy motor drive. only ONE AXIS is moved when tracking 24/7 this is the RA axis the dec AXIS is set to gain object in center of the eyepiece. first off i set my scope to 52 degrees lattitude ( in truth its about 51 and a gnats hair lol) next i line up the mount to polaris ( for me its a rough guess using compass and technology) now if i want to view orion and it is in the WEST side of the sky my telescope is on the EAST side of the mount ( remember mount points north, and the same if Orion was in the east sky my scope needs to be on the west side of the mount) so i pop the scope on the east side, now i adjust dec so i am the right hight for orion and slew the RA to bring it to view. NOW YOU LOCK DOWN the mounts clutches and engage the motor drive. if the motor drive is turning TO slowly you will notice the object starts to drift out of the view , if your polaralignment is fairly good this movement will be in one PLANE only ie up/down - left right. if you find you have to keep tweeking the DEC this means your mount is not polaraligned very well and could do with a little adjustment. The DRIFT method alignment helps with polaraligning and also getting the best alignment for tracking. here you will lock onto a star and start tracking it, as it moves and starts to drift you can work out if you need to adjust the mount lattitude wise or north alignment wise.
  5. I did some extensive testing yesterday. canon 350D @ prime using a china made T-mount adapter for EOS fitting. this was more to find out how bad the CA is and the best way to remove it None mechanical / filter wise. at first i shot wide open with the dew cover fitted ( lens hood) bright full sunshine and the object a seagull grabbing a ride on the thermals from the local rooftops. so very contrasty bright sky and a seagull not a good choice for CA image was shot at ISO800 and the onboard saturation maxed out. shutter speed was as fast as she would go @1/4000 second. The image came out washed, 4000s was just to overexposed , i kept the ISO to 800 as the cameras optimal ISO is around 900-1000 ( sensor wise) you could see the CA evident around the gulls leading wingtips and around its head and beak, it was ugly but still OK ish for a newbie ( pros would have died) Next i placed on the dust cap and removed the center mask cover. this drops the 80mm lens down to a 46mm lens.maybe this lens was just TO BIG and needed stopping down some so the 46mm hole would mean something like a 4 stop drop maybe iso we left at the same 800, exact shame shot taken but this time i was able to drop down to 1600s, bang on no oversaturation at all infact maybe a little dull but nothing 1250s shutter would not solve and still give a respectable handheld shot. the CA noticed and evident on the fist image was GONE and i mean its outta there NO CA what so ever. so stopping this big monster down to the 46mm with dust cap really did work. Extensions, hmmmmm headache for me. i am mostly using the lens for long mid and short focus ranges so the T-mount extenders are somewhat a chore, but i do hope to grab a set of EOS canon macro extender tubes , they must work in the same was a T-mount extension would just shifting the sensor away from the focal plane. The major downfall is that YOU WILL loose infinity focus , so astronomy is thrown out of the window if you try to extension fit the scope, you may just get away with about 50mm of extension but your going to be ever so shy of infinity. i need to get a bigger tape measure but can say the focus minimum distance is between 15m-30m to infinity at prime. Add a 100mm extension tube you can bring that focus minimum down to 10ft but your maximum focus range is shorted to around 15m max ( even less )
  6. Olly i have had a look at extenders, but they all seem to be T-mount when astro work is involved. they screw onto the t-mount adapter and act as a bridge to the focusers t-mount. thats not bad but swapping out would be somewhat a pain having to unscrew and screw new in place. But trawling amazon i found some lens extenders, they are a EF-S extender set. 12mm and so on. these are used for macro work with camera lenses, but do you think they could work as an extender for my t-mount. link to said items : http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00E9M33PY/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i5?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1XD9KFDZ7KBFHHSST2WJ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=455344027&pf_rd_i=468294 I pop a ef-s lens extender onto camera body, i fit my camera and extender ( sporting ef-s bayonet fitting) to the T-mount adapter and then to the scope. Now when i need to add/remove an extender, i just unclip the camera body from the extender and add new one to camera body. i can now either remove the extender left on the T-mount adapter or replace camera with a secondary extender, i am also cutting down clutter having the extenders being flat disc and not thin tube So guys and girls and the awesome brainiac Olly would this be a better solution to the adding of extenders, instead of t-mount extentions i use the EF-S macro tube extenders with the added bonus they can be used on camera lenses own to ? now if this is a viable option any sugestions on a product, should i go cheapy newwer brand or fork out for something like Hoya / canon branding. thank you for help, P.S the Skywatcher star travel 80mm when mounted Prime to a canon 350D has a minimum focus distance of 30m to infinity give or take a few meter , i made it around 25-35m so rounded to 30m
  7. its a 1.25" for sure eyepiece and focuser tube. i have a 114-1000 model telescope, and found my very best eyepiece was a 17mm and a mid range 2x barlow that should bring you down to around a equv of a 7-8mm eyepiece. any more and it gets a tad ugly. take a quiet warm evening on the patio / deck , pop the scope on the table, grab a bottle of chilled wine ( for the lady ofc) and a couple glasses. give that telescope time to cool down and get to a nice working temp. the wine helps that time pass and gives you time to strike up conversation and areas of the sky to have a look at. iphone and android apps can be downloaded and the phone held to the sky to show you what is where above your head. Clusters, when you stumble upon a cluster you will know it. you will see a mass cluster of stars grouped together, and by jove diamonds in the sky is a good term for what you will see. Galaxys are a little harder, they will be more like a fuzzy gray type cloud /whisp / dust, the hardest part is averted gazing ( you kind of look at it but dont look at it ) but once you learn to look at the object but not look at the object you will see what we all mean. and never forget that moving diamond in the sky The ISS space station, yes even websites that tell you when it will appear in the nights sky, so you can point up and say " hey love there is the spacestation how cool is that )
  8. yes highly annoying, and does not help having to add these adapters and extenders dont like my camera hanging off cheap skywatcher focuser tubes and rack n pinion dinosaur tech focusers. feels like the whole setup will just snap in half, but i really like the ST80 as a cheap Fixed long prime and i mean F5 is a blast. and if you leave the dust cap on and remove the centre cover your killing that chroma dead in the tracks but you do loose some brightness and resolution. ( center hole is 46mm apeture if am right ).
  9. Its puzzling me now 50mm prime lens min focus distance is 1.5ft to infinity my st80 is a prime 400mm lens ( 400mm focal length ) so the telescope should be a **ft to infinity its like this you focus up orions nebula , and then decide Hmmm i will go view the moon, you swing round, twist focuser a tad and take a shot. for me its i focus up the magpie at 400m away then see a greater spotted woodpecker at 80ft , you know the better target is that woodie so you unscrew the kit shove in a extender to find its not good enough add another line up and MEH !!! damn you bird its flown away. yet if it was orion and the moon instead of a magpie and woodpecker you have no problem at the longer focus range. what i cant work out is how i find the full min/max focus distance of the objective lens , every lens must have a minimum and max focus distance and that should also be the same for a telescope to ?
  10. On my camera lens units they give me a minimal focus distance the lens will focus at. Now my skywatcher Star travel 80mm ( ST80 ) i use for both astro and terrestial viewing photography. my problem is the telescopes infomation does not give the minimal focal distance of the given optics, unlike my camera lenses that do. this problem really happens in wildlife photography, focus on wildlife far away is no problem, but anything less than 50ft away there is no chance. if i add an extender (100mm extender ) i am able to focus on closer objects BUT i loose infinity focus totaly , the scope just does not focus anything at distance IE: not enough inward travel with extender , and not enough outward travel without extender. is there any way or info on the minimal focal distance for the skywatcher optics, i have looked on the website to no avail and am left missing out on some lovely terrestial shots without this minimal distance of focal range. IE how close the lens can be to an object to gain focus of said object. scope details are 80mm objective @ 400mm focal length my lens detail are 90-300 focal length and a 4.5ft to infinity focal range i hope all this does not sound like i am barking up a tree at nothing, but i can see the problem in my head and know what it is but cant explain it in wording very well my lens gives a minimal but the ST80 does not how do you work out this minimal focal distance
  11. question 1 : Exposure triangle have a google at this , lets say you have a 50mm lens its a F1.8 , thats nice right big wide open apeture , but to get the best from the lens it has a sweetspot. from between F2.8 to F4 , the MORE apeture the crisp a more full image. some folks are shooting at F11 to capture everything, the problem is the higher the apeture the LONGER the exposure and that means the MORE noise collected. most of us will be shooting with fixed F numbers ie : telescopes between F4 and F7 these have optics with a fast apeture for imaging. Question 2 : subs will vari and mostly because of onboard heat generation, the colder the camera the better quality Signal to Noise ratio, the camera sees photons, but over time it starts to record the Heat produced by the silicon chips and the power AMP on the sensor ( amp glow is seen as a orange/red blob in one corner of the sensor ), over time you will notice you get better pictures in the mid depths of winter than those lovely hot summer evenings and nights. also dont forget air quality - location etc etc can all factor in. Question 3 : Either via drift alignment and or polar alignment using a polarscope and then running system with guiding camera. i am still a newbie imaging wise, so the above is a newbies eye view on your problems, but i am sure others with more detail on imaging can clarify with better detail, but i did find the exposure triangle a helpful thing to understand. google the 2/3rds rule , we split the screen into three rows and three collums , when people say the 2/3rd focus we just mean dont focus on the central object, focus for something outside the central star wise. ( so instead of focusing for say orions nebula in the 50mm frame centered, you would just focus so orions belts stars are in focus even though these would be at the very topmost of the image
  12. Same as bingevader. Mars is going to be a some what hard target to nail. you may get a better chance with a webcam fitted to the telescope, and using your barlow. That pesky moon is a lovely sight but it can be our downfall to making things harder to see, less stars in the sky because of the moons glow. jupiter is a nice target, place your BARLOW into the focuser then pop in your 25mm eyepiece, you should see jupiter and a few of its moons. If you wait and keep watching mars you will notice that another star like object appears down to the left of mars, This is Saturn. with your BARLOW in your focuser add your 10mm eyepiece and have a look, you will need to be gentle on the focuser but you should see Saturn and its rings. its a shame Orion is low that would have been a lovely target with your 25mm eyepiece. Great to see father and son enjoying a hobby together
  13. Yes next door to the input settings is the processing tab. Hit this and check left panel it says convert from color to monochrome also make sure this tab is not selected what could happen is your input files are color, but when it comes to the processing it sees the covert to mono tab selected and will do a convert to monochrome using the RGB channels ( i think this is where your mono is coming from ) , worth double checking the color/mono settings before Do All tabing
  14. you could find that either registax OR PIPP has settings made to convert to monochrome now the above i would go for PIPPS thats done the monochrome conversion. when you next load up PIPPS have a look through those tabs for ( gimmie a mo booting pipps up ) ..... ................ ok here we go .... open pipps when you have your images/video selected. click Input Options right pannel side look for : inputframe color/mono now you need to set this to COLOR. auto detect can sometimes make a color image monochrome, so force PIPPS to run color mode BTW most Awesome shot knobby , keep up the good work and practice makes perfect
  15. Could one use a cheap eq motor driver to run/power a camera cable dolly at sidereal ?

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