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Mr TamiyaCowboy

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About Mr TamiyaCowboy

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    Proto Star

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  • Interests
    i like do it in the dark like all astronomers.
    Chalk carving is one of my new additions. to help me relax.
  • Location
    Sunny Norfolk , UK

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  1. Sadly no i left the dustcap fully off. i thought it best to test this way as most will use the st80 wide open and not stopped down. i do have a tripod but once you add the camera and a-focal adapter you are bringing the COG of the scope to around where the finderscope mounts the scope body. its a long way back from the usual mounting point on scope, so you can find your tripod creeping a bit. I will drag out an old EQ-1 and pop it into Alt Az mode, if not i will rest the scope and take a couple shots with the dustcap on and the stopdown cover removed see what the maximum shutter speed could
  2. hello again, i return with more helpful information Well the ST80 had been sitting for a while, the warmer nights and the somewhat summer days have had me busy. i am now running one of my FPV drones with a gopro like camera mounted. well back to the ST80 and some more testing, Last night ( 7th june 2014 ) we had a lovely half moon, Ok ok .. it was nearly half'ish moon but all the same in that ST80's frame it was a tad small. I have the Astro revelation T-mount adapter, but it also came as a A-focal adapter to. you could slip an eyepiece into the body of the adapter and mount the camera T-rin
  3. well was then heading off to bed when i had a quick peek outside the bedroom window. i was greated with an unusual red'ish glow between the trees and expected a nice bright full'ish moon. so off i went, rushed outside and snapped 41 shots, ISO800 - F5.6 - 1/80s , i also ramped up the onboard saturation in camera to max. the images stacked in Registax6 with PiPPs chopping to 1080p resolution ( size) Canon 350D @ prime on a ST80 at its max apeture of F5
  4. have a EQ1 with cheapy motor drive. only ONE AXIS is moved when tracking 24/7 this is the RA axis the dec AXIS is set to gain object in center of the eyepiece. first off i set my scope to 52 degrees lattitude ( in truth its about 51 and a gnats hair lol) next i line up the mount to polaris ( for me its a rough guess using compass and technology) now if i want to view orion and it is in the WEST side of the sky my telescope is on the EAST side of the mount ( remember mount points north, and the same if Orion was in the east sky my scope needs to be on the west side of the mount) so i pop the
  5. I did some extensive testing yesterday. canon 350D @ prime using a china made T-mount adapter for EOS fitting. this was more to find out how bad the CA is and the best way to remove it None mechanical / filter wise. at first i shot wide open with the dew cover fitted ( lens hood) bright full sunshine and the object a seagull grabbing a ride on the thermals from the local rooftops. so very contrasty bright sky and a seagull not a good choice for CA image was shot at ISO800 and the onboard saturation maxed out. shutter speed was as fast as she would go @1/4000 second. The image came out washe
  6. Olly i have had a look at extenders, but they all seem to be T-mount when astro work is involved. they screw onto the t-mount adapter and act as a bridge to the focusers t-mount. thats not bad but swapping out would be somewhat a pain having to unscrew and screw new in place. But trawling amazon i found some lens extenders, they are a EF-S extender set. 12mm and so on. these are used for macro work with camera lenses, but do you think they could work as an extender for my t-mount. link to said items : http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00E9M33PY/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i5?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A
  7. its a 1.25" for sure eyepiece and focuser tube. i have a 114-1000 model telescope, and found my very best eyepiece was a 17mm and a mid range 2x barlow that should bring you down to around a equv of a 7-8mm eyepiece. any more and it gets a tad ugly. take a quiet warm evening on the patio / deck , pop the scope on the table, grab a bottle of chilled wine ( for the lady ofc) and a couple glasses. give that telescope time to cool down and get to a nice working temp. the wine helps that time pass and gives you time to strike up conversation and areas of the sky to have a look at. iphone and andr
  8. yes highly annoying, and does not help having to add these adapters and extenders dont like my camera hanging off cheap skywatcher focuser tubes and rack n pinion dinosaur tech focusers. feels like the whole setup will just snap in half, but i really like the ST80 as a cheap Fixed long prime and i mean F5 is a blast. and if you leave the dust cap on and remove the centre cover your killing that chroma dead in the tracks but you do loose some brightness and resolution. ( center hole is 46mm apeture if am right ).
  9. Its puzzling me now 50mm prime lens min focus distance is 1.5ft to infinity my st80 is a prime 400mm lens ( 400mm focal length ) so the telescope should be a **ft to infinity its like this you focus up orions nebula , and then decide Hmmm i will go view the moon, you swing round, twist focuser a tad and take a shot. for me its i focus up the magpie at 400m away then see a greater spotted woodpecker at 80ft , you know the better target is that woodie so you unscrew the kit shove in a extender to find its not good enough add another line up and MEH !!! damn you bird its flown away. yet if it
  10. On my camera lens units they give me a minimal focus distance the lens will focus at. Now my skywatcher Star travel 80mm ( ST80 ) i use for both astro and terrestial viewing photography. my problem is the telescopes infomation does not give the minimal focal distance of the given optics, unlike my camera lenses that do. this problem really happens in wildlife photography, focus on wildlife far away is no problem, but anything less than 50ft away there is no chance. if i add an extender (100mm extender ) i am able to focus on closer objects BUT i loose infinity focus totaly , the scope just d
  11. question 1 : Exposure triangle have a google at this , lets say you have a 50mm lens its a F1.8 , thats nice right big wide open apeture , but to get the best from the lens it has a sweetspot. from between F2.8 to F4 , the MORE apeture the crisp a more full image. some folks are shooting at F11 to capture everything, the problem is the higher the apeture the LONGER the exposure and that means the MORE noise collected. most of us will be shooting with fixed F numbers ie : telescopes between F4 and F7 these have optics with a fast apeture for imaging. Question 2 : subs will vari and mostly beca
  12. Same as bingevader. Mars is going to be a some what hard target to nail. you may get a better chance with a webcam fitted to the telescope, and using your barlow. That pesky moon is a lovely sight but it can be our downfall to making things harder to see, less stars in the sky because of the moons glow. jupiter is a nice target, place your BARLOW into the focuser then pop in your 25mm eyepiece, you should see jupiter and a few of its moons. If you wait and keep watching mars you will notice that another star like object appears down to the left of mars, This is Saturn. with your BARLOW in yo
  13. Yes next door to the input settings is the processing tab. Hit this and check left panel it says convert from color to monochrome also make sure this tab is not selected what could happen is your input files are color, but when it comes to the processing it sees the covert to mono tab selected and will do a convert to monochrome using the RGB channels ( i think this is where your mono is coming from ) , worth double checking the color/mono settings before Do All tabing
  14. you could find that either registax OR PIPP has settings made to convert to monochrome now the above i would go for PIPPS thats done the monochrome conversion. when you next load up PIPPS have a look through those tabs for ( gimmie a mo booting pipps up ) ..... ................ ok here we go .... open pipps when you have your images/video selected. click Input Options right pannel side look for : inputframe color/mono now you need to set this to COLOR. auto detect can sometimes make a color image monochrome, so force PIPPS to run color mode BTW most Awesome shot knobby , keep up the goo
  15. Could one use a cheap eq motor driver to run/power a camera cable dolly at sidereal ?

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