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Everything posted by jimmyjamjoejoe

  1. I too have heard nothing but bad things about mirror lenses. Bad image quality anf slow f-ratio, i'd give it a miss.
  2. My limited experience with a "fringe killer" didnt impress me much if i'm honest. Really didnt change much except to give the image a warmer, yellow tint.
  3. You need a t-ring for the camera and a t-adapter for the scope. Fortunately the 200p has one built in, just unscrew the barrel of the 1.25" adapter and you'l be left with a 2" ring with a thread ontop, you screw the t-ring onto those threads. I'm sure you'l have ~some~ success with the brighter dsos, some software can deal with a little field rotation, but dont expect miracles. From a non ap standpoint, the camera is awesome for the money, and a great entry level piece of kit. In my eyes, the 1100d is to photography what the 200p is to astronomy.
  4. Hawke roof prisms are very good for the money. I myself have the cheapo naturetreks, which are very sharp, but with a slightly narrow afov. I hear the frontier ED models are far superior.
  5. 12-8mm is my usual working area. BSTs are great for the money and the stock eyepieces dont barlow well at all. My first ep upgrade was an 8mm bst and it was a great addition.
  6. Just get something. I spent ages like you suffering paralysis from analysis. Any of the above will show you MUCH more than your eye, and typically the price:performance scales well in that range, you wont really see diminishing returns until much more expensive. So, just pick how much you can afford, bare in mind that they'l see A LOT of use over the years, and pick the one that matches pricewise. I went with the naturesport plus and love it.
  7. Some 10x50 or 8x42 are all you need. A monopod and some sunglasses might make life easier.
  8. There are quite a few on www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php at the moment....
  9. Although they're just dots among other dots, these pictures give a strange presence to these objects. Its almost like the sort of thing you see in a horror movie - a normal family photo with everyone smiling, but then you spot the ghostly figure in the background. Stars are out there doing their thing, raging away spreading light etc, whilst these things coast around serenely, all lonely in the dark...
  10. 1) no 2) probably not 3) not sure but probably not The 6mm will give you 76x if my math is correct. I can understand why you feel thats a little small, i generally use 150x or so on jupiter. Your scope should show the bands at least, and some details too. It takes time for your eyes/brain to learn how to pick out small details, i know it sounds stupid, but you learn how to look through a telescope. There are a number of things which might be messing with the views - collimation would be a good thing to check, an f4 wont be very forgiving. Make sure the scope is well cooled. Leave it outside with caps off for a good 30mins at least. Try not to view over tarmac, and especially not close over rooftops because thermal currents will turn the views to mush. Some nights however are just pants, you're at the mercy of the atmosphere and it hasnt been great lately. I'd worry about getting the view sharp and details visible before buying new eps to increase the mag, otherwise you'l just have a larger featureless blob... Edit - also, jupiter is quite well past opposition now and not ideally placed, anything below 40* or so is gonna be affected by the murky atmosphere. Try higher up in the sky on some stars and see if you get a sharp image, or wait a month or so for saturn to get to a decent height at a decent time.
  11. I doubt they will, i dont think the eq attaches via a standard tripod mount.
  12. I recently got these too, wanted something with a little more grasp and a slightly wider afov than my hawke 8x42. Gotta say i love them. Views are great, about 80% of the field is sharp - maybe not tack sharp, but sharp nonetheless. My girlfriend can see the full fov when using her specs. Nice and contrasty, and no ghosting, even when looking at an almost full moon. While i havent checked the true aperture (theres a small cut off in the light path which is apparently normal for these bins), they certainly seem to grasp more light than my 8x42, which fail to show me m81+82. The dioptre adjustment feels a little bit easy, not loose, just easy. Fortunately its not something you can really accidentally knock. Focusing is firm, with no play. Finding the sweet spot is relatively easy. I cant comment on robustness, i dont intend to test it... They certainly feel solid enough though. I'm very happy with them, the 8x42 hasnt been used since the side by side comparison. Edit - btw, i'm talking about the "plus" version.
  13. Bins will always be shakey unless you stick them on a p-mount or tripod, a monopod helps a great deal though. But of course, mounting binos kinda removes the point of the whole grab and go, sky scanning versatility of them... While i do enjoy viewing through mounted big binos, in your position i'd be tempted to grab a cheap pair of 10x50 to hand hold, or even a pair of 8x42 for even less shakes. Also, bins on an eq mount doesn't really work... Bad height, and you'l end up contorting yourself in all kinds of positions to get to the eps.
  14. The lidl ones have gone downhill apparently, they're in stores now and people are pretty disappointed with them this time round. Your best bet is either second hand from astrobuysell, or take a look at your local car boot, where you can pick up some oldies for £10 or so. Failing that, FLO have a few around that price. While an experienced eye might spot problems with cheaper pairs, as a beginner, a cheapish binocular is 100x better than none at all.
  15. I started with just a pair of bins and stellarium. I always found cassiopea easy to spot, a big W in the sky, so i learned my way around using that as my starting reference. I'd just learn a constellation near it using stellarium, then go outside and match the shape. I think the first real wow i had was finding m31 by following the slightly wider point of the W as an arrow. Just pick one thats obvious to you, and slowly venture outwards as you learn and as things move about. Ursa major is another good one, since it is always about, and its orientation is easy to translate as it rotates. At first, just learn to spot them, once you get a few under your belt, then maybe think about learning targets within them.
  16. You also need a t-adapter, which slots into the focuser the same way an eyepiece would, leaving a thread exposed for the t-ring to screw onto.
  17. Warm trousers work too. Cold legs = cold feet, no matter how well you wrap them.
  18. No sense wrapping your feet if your legs have only one layer. Since buying winter lined walking trousers i've never had cold feet
  19. The kit lens is ok, not the sharpest but can give decent results. The focal length is only really suited to widefield stuff. You'l need to stop it down to around f8 for decent quality, so exposure length can be quite tight without any tracking, but its certainly good for experimenting.
  20. I also prefer silence, though if i were to try music whilst observing, it'd be john murphy - sunshine, or jamie woon - night air.
  21. Heres the guide i followed - www.stargazerslounge.com/topic/61452-centering-a-focuser-tutorial-with-focuser The screws on the focuser work the same as collimation screws, small locking screws and big adjustment screws.
  22. I had the same problem when i first got my scope. Cant remember how i did it, it involved some strips of paper to find the halfway point on the other side, it was easy enough to find out online. You need to remove the secondary assembly though.
  23. Doesnt sound good tbh. Misalignment can be sorted with the adjustment screws to a degree, but trouble focusing one side too sounds like something is seriously out of whack.
  24. binocularsky.com/binoc_eval.php
  25. There is also a limit as to how big is useful. The cfm needed to shift the maximum amount of heat from the mirror is surprisingly low. Unless your mirror is over 20", a 10-12cm fan running on low voltage is more than enough, strapping a 25cm fan on full power wouldnt cool it any quicker.
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