Yossanator

As others have suggested a good cyanoacrylate glue (commercial grade superglue) would be my first choice. If you have a file or a dremel, then abraid the edges carefully to give the glue a fighting chance. I've done repairs to all manners of stuff with this. They often are sold with an accelerator spray that sets the glue in an instant. I use them for mitres and have fixed janky 3d prints I'd bought from Etsty. Most epoxies will also work, but some may deform the material - had issues with some in the past, but probably a rare case. Screwfix stock them as well --->

That sounds like you are making some good progress, which is great news. It can be a bit of a faff - I spent 25 years in Tech and even I get befuddled by some of the weirdness/issues with getting some of this to work together - the word "seamless" isn't even on the horizon, when it comes to doing things this way - it is "fun" though! Your definitions may vary 😉 Are you running Linux on the laptop? It shouldn't necessarily make a difference, but hey... Depending upon the browser and extensions installed, you should be able to just enter "127.0.0.1:8090" (basically, LOCALHOST) or whatever port you've configured Stellarium and that should load. I've previously run it various browsers (Chrome, Opera, Firefox/Mozilla) and not had any real issues. I can access it using a tablet and phone that are on the same home network and it works, either using the IP address or network name of the device running Stellarium. Feel free to ping any questions and I'll see if I can assist. Baby steps mate! To paraphrase Debbie Harry, we'll get it working, one way or another...

I had an AZ-GTi and used a Lynx FTDI cable from FLO with no problem - I had bought one on Amazon previously and it didn't work. Hope that helps!

I've had issues in the past with Stellarium behaving as you describe. I ended up changing the port it was listening to and it worked - which makes no sense whatsoever. In Stellarium, go to Plug in's and scroll down to Remote Control and configure that plug in. By default is uses port 8090, doesn't require a password and CORS is not selected. Ensure that Server is enabled and Enable on Start Up is also selected. I enabled CORS (Cross Origin Resource), typically for a website such as Telescopious to interact with Stellarium on your PC. Put an Asterisk in the field next to it (enable all incoming requests, rather than being site specific) - I imagine you could put an IP in here if you had security concerns. Worked for me. Might for you too! Good luck

Damon Scotting - might help others find him online. He's a canny lad and I enjoy most of what he does.

This is way beyond the capabilities of my equipment and the location I'm stuck with using for the foreseeable future, but it really appeals to the geek that lurks within. Maybe one day this is something I could investigate further. Fascinating stuff. Thanks for the heads up Leo!

What about Chefs? Salt is a metal, technically...

This is probably the key point in all of this. We assume that life should be carbon based etc, but we simply do not know if that is universally true and there is no way that we can argue one way or another with any degree of certainty. I, for one, welcome our new alien overlords from Enceladus, regardless of their pasta-based RNA...

All of that is predicated upon our current understanding of chemistry, biology and physics, which is moot, as you say. It wasn't that long ago that we discovered extremophiles and chemosynthesis became a thing. All of that was considered impossible according to our, then, understanding. Who knows what may be next? We don't know what we don't know.

I read a fascinating article in New Scientist a few years ago hypothesising that Stars themselves *may* be considered a form of life and perhaps attain some form of sentience. I'm a life-long subscriber to NS, but also someone who often has to re-read an article many times to get the gist of it. Or not. Quite often it's the "or not" outcome 😀 There are always some "out there" articles in Scientific American and New Scientist raising these sorts of ideas. One only has to look at the work of Avi Loeb and some of the, er, interesting ideas he proposes. Fascinating, nevertheless.

Greetings Soz for hijacking this thread with questions! I am considering this and it's bigger siblings - HAE16C/HAE18C (of which there is zero info/reviews about) and wanted to check a few things that aren't explicit in some of the product listings. A few of you on here have this mount, so seems like a good place to start, so a big thank you in advance. I had been very-ish (!) committed to going down the EQ6 path, but now my set up will be pretty much based around a 1st floor SW-facing balcony and some restricted views in the communal outside space where I'm living temporarily (builders-long story). I guess portability is now one of my main drivers. The Alt Az nature of the 18C also appeals given my change in circumstance/usage. Oddly, the AZ EQ5 GT could also be a contender due to this, as well as size/weight and grunt. Bit of a chungus compared to the HEM/HAE's but hey. Usage - Small refractors and DSLR/Lens setup's. Under 5kg currently, although a 103 APO might be a thing next year - that's 5.5kg. No big cooled cameras or EFW's - just a 585mc and Nikon D5100. Control will be mini PC or Asi Air. Visual/EAA Questions I understand that WIFI is only available with the handset plugged in on the HEM15? (although this contradicted in some resources!) The USB is only available via the handset (HEM15). I guess you can you still use an EQMOD cable into the handset port on the mount - is that correct? Does the mount require interaction with the handset on start up (date, time, co-ords etc.) or would I be ok leaving it out of the equation altogether (preferred option)? I'm guessing the iCommander app is similar to Synscan, in that a) it's a bit %^$ meh and b) I can tell it I'm in EQ or Alt Az mode and grab my co-ordinates etc - sync the mount and do all the other gubbins? Apart from make my last mount part of my home network, I never had a need to use the synscan app and imagine the iCommander will be the same. Sense of foreshadowing re last statement... I've read this thread (+others) and seen a few reviews of the HEM15, so I guess I'm aware of it's mechanical/engineering quirks and fiddly nature, some of which will be repeated on the 16C/18C, presumably. Would appreciate your thoughts.

Your post made me giggle - given what's going on my life currently, that was much needed and appreciated! Long story... I am that Jessie and need to man up and face this "hurdle". The StellaLyra newt's look very pleasing and when my insurers get their act together, FLO will receive an abundance of emails and, eventually, an order or two! I'm guessing that I'll need a coma corrector and a Cheshire laser doofer to get me going. As I said, Newt's are a mystery to me, so I'll take all the advice that's available to me on this amazing forum. I have a 'frac, AsiAir Plus, Mini PC, 585mc, Nikon DSLR and an abundance of other "stuff". Mount and a "few" other things are literally charred ashes so will need to restart this hobby afresh. Given the differential (price) between a 6" or 8", I'm leaning towards the 8". I'll be running this on a SW EQ6R Pro or 6i, using either NINA or AsiAir etc. Any thoughts or guidance would be very much appreciated!

Apologies if that has been asked a gazillion times. I've been put off from by getting a Newt by the process of Collimation, despite being pretty savvy and talented at doing fiddly stuff (Chef/Maker). I know it's daft, but it seems like some mystic or arcane dark art and I shy away from considering it. I genuinely fancy getting a cheap(ish) Newtonian for some visual, but mainly for AP. I've watched some vids, but not having a Newtonian to "practice" on doesn't help. There isn't an Astronomy Club near me and the only person with any telescope experience is a neighbour who actually knows very little himself. He's also very irritating, which doesn't help my case at all. I'm ashamed to admit I have even hid behind a fence when I saw him coming up the street towards my house - very adult of me. I know this is all irrational, but someone just tell me it's no biggie and I'm being a big Jessie. I can handle it. Is it as complex as I've made it out to be to myself? Please be gentle with me 😒

PlayerOne/Touptek have a UK base and their prices are pretty canny compared to ZWO. Maybe worth throwing them into the mix as well as Altair. https://www.specialistcameras.co.uk/

I second this. I bought an EQDIR cable on Amazon and despite being an extremely technical person, I couldn't get it working. Sent it back, bought one from FLO and it just worked. Not all EQDIR cable are the same or are of the same quality. The Lynx one is highly recommended. Ping FLO an email and they'll let you which cable you need. questions@firstlightoptics.com I'm not affiliated with them, but they are an absolute pleasure to deal with - very patient in dealing with questions from newbies like me!

For reasons that are a bit complex, I'm having to replace some of my stuff and saving £40 here and there makes a big difference as I can use those savings to buy bright, shiny things invest in more appropriate kit that supports my hobby going forward...

In my teens (quite a few decades ago) I bought a Doors Album (Waiting for the sun) The sleeve and label on the Album where all accurate, but the album itself was a James Last Greatest hits (Side 1 only) on both sides of the vinyl. Sold it to a guy at a record fair for £200 about 20 years back. I've often wondered about the mis-steps involved that created such a thing. The mind boggles.

Er, it was a little light relief. The Objective Diameter is listed as 65 Months... I'll get my coat.

Just wondering what size Bahtinov mask I'd need to match this scope...

I wouldn't recommend the AZ GTi for your needs. It's pretty basic, although quite capable. I ended up spending another £130 on a EQ baseplate and counterweight for it. I hadn't a scooby what I was buying, so took the advice of a neighbour, which I regretted quite quickly! The Mak is a great scope though, but I only have experience of the 127 from Sky-watcher and am fairly new to this myself. Others will have more experience than I. Re 50mm - go on youtube and search for "nifty fifty" and you will find a lot of vids about shooting with lenses such as this. I'm tempted by the Sky-watcher Evoguide, which is 50mm doublet guide scope, but is also very capable for imaging. Search for Pretty Average Astro on Youtube - he did a session with it with pretty cool results. They're about £330 or so and you can use these with a DSLR or Astro camera. I used my mount for a DSLR/Lens setup as well. I have a lot of prime lenses, so it has been interesting to experiment with them too. I bought an adapter that allows my Nikon lenses to work with Astro cameras and that has been a interesting rabbit hole to explore as well. Still getting to grips with all of that, but enjoying the journey.

Lol - there are a lot of similarities between us. I'm already 57 and spent around 25 years in SW, mainly as a Project/Programme Mangler, as I was a fairly average software engineer in my youth and I foolishly believed that path would be a lot less hassle. Like you, this experience meant [removed word] all, as I was way out of my depth, due to all the "stuff" that you need to acquaint yourself with and the terminology that I had no idea about. I thought a Barlow was a member of Take That and a Plossl sounded like an expensive Swedish HIFI, but apparently that is not the case. Re the DSLR - you should be able to connect it to the back of the focuser tube with a suitable T-ring and away you go. It's then a case of getting it into focus. It shouldn't need any spacers/extensions. I'm sure others will correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what I've done with my 72ED and the Mak127 I had previously. I managed to get a mini pc up and running and connected to my mount, with NINA etc, pretty quickly. I also bought an AsiAir Plus, which I do like, but that means ZWO kit only, which grinds my gears, but hey. If you want to PM me any questions re the steps I went through with ASCOM, NINA etc, then send me a PM. Happy to help a fellow sufferer!

I was going down the path of the 103 APO and have now become a little smitten with the 120. "I mean, I was going to buy an EQ6R or EQ6i anyway, so it will accommodate the weight easily" and other such inner monologues are now a thing, despite the fact I would be better off with the 103 and could really use the cash for something less practical, like food and heating... Decisions, decisions!

I bought a Mak 127 on a AZ GTi and was blown away what the scope can deliver - at such a price point too. I've subsequently got a refractor (72ED) and am toying with getting a 103 APO refractor as well. I sold the Mak and really wish I hadn't. They are a doddle to set up and use (well, ish). I'm pretty sure I will get another one and will chastise myself again for naively parting ways with the first one. Jenham's Astro covers the Maks in detail, and does comparisons to SCT's. I can't recommend his channel enough. A very valuable resource! https://www.youtube.com/@JenhamsAstro

If it is any consolation, I got into this a few years ago and despite having a very technical background, I too got pretty flummoxed by much of the "minor" details that really derailed my initial progress. I bought various cables and doodads and went down unnecessary paths of "exploration" (frustration, pain and more cash) before things started to click. Re the EAF - I'd re-install it, as it will be an extremely useful addition to your setup. From the thread, I assume that you are going to control the mount via software (NINA, PHD etc), so this will really add a lot of value. As the night progresses, the temperature will change and that change, however minor, will have an affect on the glass/optics in your scope. Most EAF's have a port for a temperature probe, so something like NINA will take a note of the temperature change and re-focus the scope to ensure it's accurate. If you have an Electronic Filter Wheel (EFW) and change from one filter to another during your imaging sequence, then you'd want the EAF to re-focus to make sure it's spot on. All of this can be done automatically, via software, which really helps reduce the complexity of the operation. There are more use-cases for the EAF and a search through the forums on here will really help with the learning curve on that and other areas of specificity. This is an excellent resource and worth perusing. It can be a very geeky/nerdy hobby, which ticks many boxes for me, but not everyone is the same on that front. I wish I had found this site/forum before I went out and bought my initial gear, as it would have saved me a chunk of cash and a lot of wasted hours swearing at mounts, computers and the skies 😒 TBH, I still swear at mounts, computers and the skies, but that's hard-coded in me anyway... Best of luck and clear skies!

The mount acts like a WIFI access point - it creates it's own network. If you turn it on and go to your wifi settings on phone/tablet or even PC, you should see a new network with "synscanXXX" where XXX is the unique identifier of that particular mount. If you've downloaded the Synscan app and have connected to the mounts WIFI then you will be able to control it with app or something like NINA on PC (when you're ready!). When you load the App, you will see a CONNECT button at the top of the screen (phone) - that's all that is required to get things started. I ended up changing my mount WIFI to operate in "station mode" - in other words, it was just another device on my existing home network and not an entirely separate LAN, which is how it operates by default. This can be changed by going to Settings on the synscan app and then selecting Synscan WIFI or Connect settings - I can't verify that last bit as the app is not installed on this phone and I'm currently in a hotel! The App is a bit dated looking (ex-techie), but is functional-ish. Hope that helps!